Need help with an RO unit

I want something that has standard, good quality parts to it.
I also want to make sure its very effective in removing chloramines, so I'm trying to find one that has a DI, and possible even add on a UV in line filter at the end
Not sure if I'll have to get a pump too for the correct water pressure going into the filtration system. this will be something ill test out.
The unit I was looking at looks like I may be able to find a more legit one, its called the RO buddie. I would add the DI filter too. It just seems a little too cheap perhaps they charge alot for the filters and I'd be best off with a more legitimate system?
The pressure requirement is a minimum of 40PSI. Also they recommend 77 deg F water , so I would be adding in a mixing valve as well.

I would love any recommendations . I can do the plumbing work myself just having a hard time deciding on what unit and accessories to buy. I'm not going to test my tap water because it changes throughout the year. It will be nice to not have to buy drinking water as well as plant water, so I would add a UV sterilizer at the beginning or end of the unit whatever is better as well.

Nizza said:

I want something that has standard, good quality parts to it.
I also want to make sure its very effective in removing chloramines, so I'm trying to find one that has a DI, and possible even add on a UV in line filter at the end
Not sure if I'll have to get a pump too for the correct water pressure going into the filtration system. this will be something ill test out.
The unit I was looking at looks like I may be able to find a more legit one, its called the RO buddie. I would add the DI filter too. It just seems a little too cheap perhaps they charge alot for the filters and I'd be best off with a more legitimate system?
The pressure requirement is a minimum of 40PSI. Also they recommend 77 deg F water , so I would be adding in a mixing valve as well.

I would love any recommendations . I can do the plumbing work myself just having a hard time deciding on what unit and accessories to buy. I'm not going to test my tap water because it changes throughout the year. It will be nice to not have to buy drinking water as well as plant water, so I would add a UV sterilizer at the beginning or end of the unit whatever is better as well.

Click to expand...

Water straight from the tap doesn't need to be UV sterilized. Any cheap RO system on ebay or Amazon will work, heck I bought mines (100 gpd 5 stage RO DI) from Ebay for under $100 and added a bigger DI cartridge and housing, that was over a year ago and it's still pouring out @ 0ppm.

I used to run cheapo RO filters, and then stealth RO filters (without the stealth plug installed) and they wouldn't even last me a cycle, albiet I use 30 gallons a day minimum. I switched to a WECO 350 GPD unit and it runs so much longer at 3 PPM before I have to change filters.

Low pressure (40 PSI) will result in very low production rates. More pressure = faster production. You may need a booster pump depending on how much water you use. I just turned up my whole house regulator to 70 PSI lol. Showers are much better now. Wouldn't do it unless you are confident your plumbing can handle it.

I might be using 2-4 gallons per day

600$ is way too much and that unit produces a ton of water

this one is much cheaper , and then I'd be adding in the DI filter along with it. What do you guys think?

It says on there it will remove chloramines. Most of the systems I look at have 3 filters with an Added DI filter accessory

oh crap i didnt see that 4th filter on the top. Looks legit!! Any more input fellas??

Nizza,
The actual components on generic cheapo RU units ...like you would find on Amazon and eBay, are all pretty standardized. For your needs...a $50 unit would serve you a long time. Just go buy a gal of deionized water.

Chloramine and chlorine will damage the RO membrane...so all RO units have charcoal filters to remove that.
JD

what do you mean buy a gallon of Deionized water? for what? To break in that membrane or something?
thank you very much for your input JD. Good to see your still here too

yes I understand about the charcoal deionization slow filtering to seperate chlorine from the ammonia (chloramine) but not exactly sure what the best unit to get is, or where exactly in the RO process it is used. I think i saw them on the very end of the unit, and if chloramines fked up RO membranes I think it would make sense it would be the first thing in the system


If it costs a little more for a better unit I don't mind.. 50$-300$ or so is my price range. This would also replace my drinking water (i buy 5 gallons of poland springs i have tons of 5 gallon bottles I can refill

not sure if that WECA system even needs that DI filter I think its in there cause its got 4 filters and they claim it removes chloramine.

before I invest.. I wanna be sure that the system i get is targeted primarily towards chloramine. Im not bothering testing the water because we only have one main aquafer here and the municipal treats it differently all through the year. We are very coastal and there are alot of articles on how crap is leeching through our soil into our drinking water. Especially as the population increases

Good site to window shop...

Nizza said:

what do you mean buy a gallon of Deionized water?

Click to expand...

Well I assumed that the DI filter you referred to was for the RO to make deionized water...they will do that. You tell me...why are you so dedicated to add a DI filter...and what will it do for you?

I just meant forget the DI filter and just buy a $50 unit. Seems to me you're overthinking it...or probably you're one of those guys that does this with every purchase. Different strokes...I'm an impulse buyer. lol
JD

I like to think it out
at the same time it drives me crazy but... from what I've researched so far
The DI filter is supposed to be with the RO unit to protect the membrane from the chloramine. I'm positive this is in our water. I don't care if people don't think it affects the plants, but I want to invest in a filter that will really filter my water for a few purposes

The DI filter after reading into it is a catalytic carbon filter that slow processes the water to remove the chlorine atom from the ammonia. after this it is put into a standard carbon block filter or whatever then the traditional RO filters membranes and such..

I don't really understand this shit... I just wanna invest a little more at first in something that will work for 5-10 years with replaceable shit that doesn't cost an arm and a butthole down the road for parts that don't exist.

I understand some people may think I'm overthinking it.. And I like your input Dee. I really love the idea of a 50$ unit, but from what i've read the chloramine totally wrecks the membranes on the RO units, is why u need a prefilter. Either way I think your gonna pay for more RO membranes ... more charcoal ... or whateva.

I hope I don't come off as being stupid or anything lol .. I always have wanted to try out hydro.. I know if I invest in a quality unit for my water now for soil, I can use it down the road in Hydro.

thanks for your help ! Love the input
I liked this, pretty informative. Yeah its about aqua life but I mean... its basically the same I am just concerned about water quality and over time the cost of replacing all the shit

placing the DI filter before the membrane will kill the DI filter quickly and is not how it's supposed to be used. Many systems use 2 carbon filter's that strip the chlorine from the chloramine and the membrane removes the leftover ammonia. Lastly the DI filter strips everything from the water making pure 0ppm water.

ALSO I wouldn't drink Deionized water if I were you.

"Ideally, you will want to have two chloramine-removal carbon cartridges in-series after your sediment filter. Alternatively, you can use one chloramine-removal cartridge followed by one standard carbon block cartridge. By using two carbon block filters in series, you will ensure that no traces of chloramine enter the membrane"

I was reading on there that the DI filters protect that membrane though??
shit now I think I'm mixing two different types of systems... An ro and Di system are different?
the DI filter I am mixing up with the chloramine -pre filter?

fuck man. Really trying to understand this...

I think what I'm looking for is how to set up a reverse osmosis system with an "add-on" chloramine filtration... or a RO system built with the understanding that chloramine may be present

i can buy some spring water instead. I really was hoping the RO unit would also replace my drinking water

Dang...Forsta has it goin on

Every RO filter I have ever had with a DI bead cartridge had the DI cartridge after the membrane.

just really trying to invest in the right product. thank you!

this means i will invest in that product.. I will wait this out a week for futher discussion. I am also contacting a rep from them

this is what i'm looking at now. I like the whole thing, it even has a Ph neutrilizer
anyone know if calcite used in this filter will do anything bad to my soil grows? If i go hydro I can just disconnect the filter, I want it to make drinking water taste nice and from what I understand all calcite is, is calcitic lime which would actually be great for my soil grows? I am kind of worried it might drive the pH too high though and don't wanna buy a new pH/ppm pen yet.

I have no experience with the calcite deal. I would suspect that the calcite will cancel out the acidity and leave you with a slightly alkaline pH (not ideal for growing but great for drinking). I have never seen a calcite cartridge in any commercial grow I have serviced and thats a lot, some with some really big and fancy RO setups. I would contact WECO, they are very responsive and they could likely tell you what output pH to expect, I have called him and he answered while driving so easy to get a hold of. Make sure to have info handy like your tap PPM and pH plus water pressure as well as how much water you need per day. If I were you I would just ask him what system he recommends based on your needs. It would be simple enough with a TEE fitting to pull the water for your grow before the calcite cartridge and your drinking water after it, assuming the calcite filter is a post filter.

FFS man buy a god damn pH pen. SMGDH lol Nothing irritates me more than someone that skips a necessity like that.

To the OP ---> don't drink DI water man...that is not good for you.

cool ill buy a ph and ppm pen again
i havent used one in so long, i regretted ever buying the first set

fuckin sweet idea with the tee ren!

i will be drinking this water, it is actually going to be an RO unit

im currently gona soak my old tester pens in water, then attempt to recalibrate them then test them vs my drop solution. it will work on the 2x ph bluelab pens i have. we will see on the ppm Pen
aLL THIS SHIT IS TEN YEARS OLD!
Maybe 13