Need help ASAP!!!

spek9 said:

Top of the fridge, or top of a fireplace mantle work well also. When I do a lot of seeds, I like to do paper towel as well, so that I know how many seeds germinated and how many pots to prepare.

I use moist paper towel, folded up. I drop four seeds into each paper towel, roll it up, and place it into a ziplock. The ziplock keeps the moisture in for the 2-4 days the seeds are in there. I label the ziplock with the strain the seeds came from.

I then wrap up all of the ziplock bags in a black kitchen towel, then place that in a warm area.

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I agree but with 95% success in soil, I dont need to handle and extra time from paper towels

spek9 said:

Top of the fridge, or top of a fireplace mantle work well also. When I do a lot of seeds, I like to do paper towel as well, so that I know how many seeds germinated and how many pots to prepare.

I use moist paper towel, folded up. I drop four seeds into each paper towel, roll it up, and place it into a ziplock. The ziplock keeps the moisture in for the 2-4 days the seeds are in there. I label the ziplock with the strain the seeds came from.

I then wrap up all of the ziplock bags in a black kitchen towel, then place that in a warm area.

Click to expand...

Yeah i agree it cuts down on prep, to the op leave a corner of the Ziploc open, it needs to breathe.

spek9 said:

Top of the fridge, or top of a fireplace mantle work well also. When I do a lot of seeds, I like to do paper towel as well, so that I know how many seeds germinated and how many pots to prepare.

I use moist paper towel, folded up. I drop four seeds into each paper towel, roll it up, and place it into a ziplock. The ziplock keeps the moisture in for the 2-4 days the seeds are in there. I label the ziplock with the strain the seeds came from.

I then wrap up all of the ziplock bags in a black kitchen towel, then place that in a warm area.

Click to expand...

My success in soil use to be really bad one time i calculated 11% germination. I now understand all the factors, soil compaction is one of the biggest ones

I really hate second handling of seeds or even transplanting. I limit transplanting down to just 1 now and it works out fine base on initial size not too large and final size not very much wider but very much deeper!

The “ elephant in the room “ that has not been mentioned .....

If you simply drop seed in FFOF or similar medium .... It will feed that seedling easily for a week or 2 Before deciding to transplant .
Nothing else needed. The cotyledon leaves carry simple Nutes to start the plant .

Budzbuddha said:

The “ elephant in the room “ that has not been mentioned .....

If you simply drop seed in FFOF or similar medium .... It will feed that seedling easily for a week or 2 Before deciding to transplant .
Nothing else needed. The cotyledon leaves carry simple Nutes to start the plant .

Click to expand...

I just do one transplant from medium container to big

Kingkongbud said:

Never mist your soil as some people claim. It is unnecessary. Good watering practice involves always allowing a bit of run off. If you did this then dropped your seed in non compacted soil it will take minimum 10 days before first watering and max of 14. The first watering and so on should have a little runoff. This ensures that all soil levels have even saturation and ensures water does not pool anywhere in the container because it creates an escape channel. Place your pot elevated in a bowl and sponge the runoff shortly after watering. Misting soil takes too long and is unnecessary. Always use lukewarm water

Click to expand...

That is not true .... we are talking about the initial germ / sprouting stage ( this case a solo cup of soil ) .

Cup needs a couple of simple drain holes at bottom. FFOF is not a compacted soil , being peat based it is very aerated and can be improved with additional perlite , that’s it. A seed would start in about 3 days ( not 10 or 14 - unless older seed stock ) which I will give a tip for below. There is absolutely no reason to water to runoff in a “ solo cup “ .... excess watering stifles it and leaches the medium.
Seeds prefer damp not SOGGY conditions.....
When I said “ misting “ I was referring to the small pocket where seed goes only... as it doesn’t need much ... also when lifting cover you can mist that to keep a little humidity for it. Seedling temps should fall between at least 65 - 75 degrees to activate .

There is also some growers that plant “ direct “ into final pot without much issue. Matter of fact , FFOF can run your plant ( 3 gallon and larger ) for at least 6 weeks “ on its own “ without ANY NUTES , just ph water . FFOF chimes in at 6.3 ph out of the bag.
So by simply ph 6.5 - 6.7 ( allowing for drift ) is all that’s needed. RO water needs calmag at times to put back what may have been filtered out. You can run TAP with this medium , without much effort.

FEEDING : Can be done by simple handful of same FFOF as a top dress at intervals during grow WITHOUT bottled Nutes.
This method simply recharges the medium that the plant is already used to , so burning or other typical issues are gone.
You don’t even need the fox farm trio set for this to work. Flowering can be bumped with kelp / kelp meal either scratched into topdress
or added to water for plant. Plant is not overly fed , cleaner end product.

OLD SEEDS : Seed stock ( 2 yrs or older ) depending on how well they were stored , the following helps.
If using paper towel method .... when you dampen paper towel , add a pinch of myco ( great white , synergy, or recharge ) on that
damp seed .... continue with zip bag process. You can also use a tiny dab of clonex too. Older seeds do take awhile but these methods
improve the odds of germinating. A presoak in shot glass of bottle water ( warm ambient room temp ) can help before these steps.
Some old stock may need a scuff but that is a whole other subject.

Lighting : You can use a simple CFL / FLOURO light to start them without stressing them up front , if that’s what you have on hand.
Just keep those kind of lights close as it will aid in tempering stretch . If light is too far , seedlings get leggy and often need support.
Run 5000k / 6400k /6500k ( higher blue ) to aid in tighter nodes.

GL

Budzbuddha said:

That is not true .... we are talking about the initial germ / sprouting stage ( this case a solo cup of soil ) .

Cup needs a couple of simple drain holes at bottom. FFOF is not a compacted soil , being peat based it is very aerated and can be improved with additional perlite , that’s it. A seed would start in about 3 days ( not 10 or 14 - unless older seed stock ) which I will give a tip for below. There is absolutely no reason to water to runoff in a “ solo cup “ .... excess watering stifles it and leaches the medium.
Seeds prefer damp not SOGGY conditions.....
When I said “ misting “ I was referring to the small pocket where seed goes only... as it doesn’t need much ... also when lifting cover you can mist that to keep a little humidity for it. Seedling temps should fall between at least 65 - 75 degrees to activate .

There is also some growers that plant “ direct “ into final pot without much issue. Matter of fact , FFOF can run your plant ( 3 gallon and larger ) for at least 6 weeks “ on its own “ without ANY NUTES , just ph water . FFOF chimes in at 6.3 ph out of the bag.
So by simply ph 6.5 - 6.7 ( allowing for drift ) is all that’s needed. RO water needs calmag at times to put back what may have been filtered out. You can run TAP with this medium , without much effort.

FEEDING : Can be done by simple handful of same FFOF as a top dress at intervals during grow WITHOUT bottled Nutes.
This method simply recharges the medium that the plant is already used to , so burning or other typical issues are gone.
You don’t even need the fox farm trio set for this to work. Flowering can be bumped with kelp / kelp meal either scratched into topdress
or added to water for plant. Plant is not overly fed , cleaner end product.

OLD SEEDS : Seed stock ( 2 yrs or older ) depending on how well they were stored , the following helps.
If using paper towel method .... when you dampen paper towel , add a pinch of myco ( great white , synergy, or recharge ) on that
damp seed .... continue with zip bag process. You can also use a tiny dab of clonex too. Older seeds do take awhile but these methods
improve the odds of germinating. A presoak in shot glass of bottle water ( warm ambient room temp ) can help before these steps.
Some old stock may need a scuff but that is a whole other subject.

Lighting : You can use a simple CFL / FLOURO light to start them without stressing them up front , if that’s what you have on hand.
Just keep those kind of lights close as it will aid in tempering stretch . If light is too far , seedlings get leggy and often need support.
Run 5000k / 6400k /6500k ( higher blue ) to aid in tighter nodes.

GL

Click to expand...

Its not necessary, furthermore it brings potential to wet the leaves, again, not necessary or important

grcraze11 said:

Thank you all in advance!
About a year ago I started growing for the first time and that has been quite the learning curve however recently I’ve taken some time off roughly 2 months and every time my seeds germinate I plant them in plastic Solo cups with Fox Farm seedling soil but they never seem to sprout a couple times they do then die shortly after sprouting.... my prior runs I was nailing almost 100% success.... any help is greatly appreciated.

i’ve had issues with 3 different strands Girl Scout cookie - growers choice seeds , critical purple Kush And White widow - seedmans seeds

In photo number three you can see the dead seedling if you look

The last two pictures are both Girl Scout cookie one is in flower just started the other just started vegetation.

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Did it work out?
And it's Strain Dude not Strand Just saying