My myco survive just fine with FF nutes. Dont forget their own Big Bloom is full of microbes as well. I wrote SPT and asked them if its fine to mix SPT up with FF nutes and they said its just fine. I mentioned this in the BMO thread. Read the last two pages. Theres also a link in there to a discussion about salts/chem ferts and microbes thats worth reading.
Please don't think I'm being confrontational, but it begs the question, "how do you know they survive"? I'm using myco on alot of stuff, but I have no way of confirming if my applications (and I've used probably 160 gallons by now) are having any benefit. It's my understanding that the filaments are not visible to the human eye, so all I have to go on is blind faith and a watchful eye regarding plant growth. What I'm thinking is what I've held for so long - with a well prepared and designed soil mix, you don't need any supplements. For hydro, to grow excellent plants you only need the 16 essential elements in a well balanced soluble salts form that can pass thru the root's epidermal gradient.
You can see them on the roots that poke out of the bottom of the pot, or when I upcan you see a hairy white mold on the roots(I could be wrong though??). The "mold" doesn't colonize as well as I would like. Even on the plants that were getting organic nutes only for a month are no better than the ones getting FF. Ive still got a bottle left, and may as well do a side by side on next grow if any is left. Even then, I am doubting there is enough benefit.
. It appears myco additives really aren't that useful for short lived plants like MJ.
If you could shoot me a picture I would love it! It should be easy to discern between fine root hairs and a mold like filament.
That's exactly what I brought up either on page one or in another thread in another forum. Being that this is an annual, I don't think there is enough time for the colony to take place, to be of any real world benefit. I was told by a tech that even with perennials, it takes a while for the dormancy to expansive growth phase to take effect. IOW, when you apply it, it doesn't automatically go to work like some wish to believe.I decided to do some quick reading, and it appears Ive discovered why they are slow to colonize my root system even though these plants are two months old. It takes months for them to even start developing colonies when plants are first treated. Even at two years dont expect a full colony according to this:
http://www.super-grow.biz/Myco.jsp#where
Im glad you were "confrontational"
Would be appreciated. Did you ever see my link on grapes? This is one of the few scientific reads on VAM: http://www.wynboer.co.za/recentarticles/200705miko.php3
I probably read that and didn't take heed since I had already purchased the stuff and couldn't return it
. 
Guess I was figuring soil-less to mean without compost. Soil-less to me would be a peat based mix with perlite. I may have misconstrued this.I probably read that and didn't take heed since I had already purchased the stuff and couldn't return it
Ill try and take a picture for you if possible. All ive got is a shitty camera phone, so hopefully I can get something.
I swear you mentioned that myco would perform best in a soil-less mixture in your last post or two. This was a link I found discussing myco tips in different soil layers:
http://www.cababstractsplus.org/abstracts/Abstract.aspx?AcNo=19780648568
It seems ecto-myco colonizes best in humus, which should already be full of microbes right? Thats a surprise to me.
Thanks, but tough to see.
Since were on the subject of mediums, have you ever used aged/composted pine bark fines? I started using some this grow, and have pretty much fallen in love with it. It eliminates my ability to over-water seedlings, and definitely doesn't become compacted like peat/compost(although I still use them as part of the mix).
Brick Top used pine fines alot. I think redwood or fir would be better, used to use it for orchids. You really need to increase the N in order to feed the N feeding bacteria which will be breaking down the bark, like a 30-10-10. It's pretty hard to beat horse manure.
From what Ive read, its the uncomposted pine bark that really becomes a problem, but partially composted it shouldnt be a big issue, but it is probably prudent to up the nitrogen like you said.
If it's composted, I'd go for it. I have a problem with over maintenance regarding watering. I do the opposite of most folks, I tighten up the mix so I don't have to water as often. If you have a robust healthy growing plant it's almost impossible to have a root rot issue.
I hear this A LOT.
A quick look at the cal-mag label answers why you saw an increase in leaf health. It's 2-0-0. Its the nitrogen boost you were needing. Thanks UB, jberry, Dave, and all the other good posters on this thread. Great info and another paradigm cracking conclusion. Rep+ all around.
Well, yes and no.You can see them on the roots that poke out of the bottom of the pot, or when I upcan you see a hairy white mold on the roots(I could be wrong though??). The "mold" doesn't colonize as well as I would like. Even on the plants that were getting organic nutes only for a month are no better than the ones getting FF. Ive still got a bottle left, and may as well do a side by side on next grow if any is left. Even then, I am doubting there is enough benefit.
I decided to do some quick reading, and it appears Ive discovered why they are slow to colonize my root system even though these plants are two months old. It takes months for them to even start developing colonies when plants are first treated. Even at two years dont expect a full colony according to this:
http://www.super-grow.biz/Myco.jsp#where
Im glad you were "confrontational"
If there is a difference, I doubt its from the myco like you said as well.Well, yes and no.
From what I've noticed, yes mj is too short lived for the most part. It does seem to help with mother plants that are kept around for longer periods of time.
If you're a gardener, alliums (Onions,shallots,garlic) really benefit and I have noticed a difference there. The 9 month growing season might help also.
I get mine from Fungi Perfect, www.fungi.com and besides the myco, there is also beneficial bacteria in there. It is just pure spore mass and 1oz will make 12 gallons of solution. Cost a grand total of $5.95 for 1oz and the shipping is ~$1.50. So, figure $8 and another $2 for some molasses to wake it up. A bit cheaper than anything I've seen with a pretty label.
Anyway, I HAVE noticed a difference, but I think it's due more to some of the 19 different bacteria's that's in there than the mycos, but something seems to be working.
Wet
