My First Grow Is Within A PC. Need Help.

Dragon311 said:

I'd go with LST over scrog for a PC case. It's simpler and more effective in small spaces. Scrog seems to be better suited when you have plenty of room.

General rule of thumb is one plant per pot. As Clivendon1 mentioned, they will get rootbound fast with multiple plants in one pot. The less transplanting you have to do the better. For my first grow I didn't do any transplants. I germinated and grew her in the same pot from start to end.

For a PC case grow, I'd be looking for a wide but low tupperware to use as your pot. Find one as wide as your PC case would be ideal. If you go this route, make sure you drill holes for drainage. Then I lined the bottom with just perlite to help drainage more. I also taped up the outside of the tupperware so no light leaked into the roots.

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Dragon311 said:

There are plenty of posts on these forums that go into detail on how to LST. I will just give you a quick break down, and you can search for more info if you want to. LST is perfectly suited to a small space that has more horizontal room to grow than vertical. If you have plenty of vertical room to grow, then I'd look into FIM or topping.

The basic goal of LST is to trick the plant into creating multiple "main colas".

You tie down the main stalk (theres a myriad different ways you can do this, I'll let your research shed more light on this). When you tie down the main stalk, you make sure that the tip of the top is lower than the other branches. What this does, is trick the plant into sending something (an enzyme or hormone or a gremlin for all i know) to the other branches telling them that they are the new main cola. Over time the side branches will rival the main cola in size/girth.

Just make sure you keep an eye on the tip of the original top, and keep it lower than the other branches .

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Dragon311 said:

I think i started training mine after the 5th internode...

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SilasZaneB said:

they actually seem to be doing it themselves! i figured i would just tilt one end of the container about a half inch lower and the plant would bend towards the light.
2 out of 4 of them are growing like fiends because of this! and they are curving perfectly! . the one is still a little small. and one more was planted a bit deep so its taking a little longer for it.

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Dragon311 said:

IMO it's too early to be doing any type of training. What you're actually doing is making them stretch to reach the light, which isn't what you want. That's wasting energy that could be going towards growing. Nice thinking outside the box though.

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SilasZaneB said:

did you see the recent pics? i thought that they looked pretty good for less than a week and undergoing training...

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SilasZaneB said:

I dont want to hear anyone put down my soil.
i changed to straight 100% coconut huss, and they all started having a mg deficiency.
The soil is what was best, so i poured a bunch of it into their water source.
they seem to be perking back up a little bit since i did this.

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Dragon311 said:

There was no need to change mediums, just for the sake of changing them. It's one thing if you're planning to transplant to a different container with a different medium, it's another to just change the medium for the sake of change. It's just needlessly stressing the plant getting repotted once, now twice if you put them back. Don't change anything else for a while now...let them recover, they will probably take a couple days or more to recover from the shock.


I'm sorry, but there is no way that a magnesium deficiency is going to manifest itself in 5 days. (5 days is the time between postings so I'm assuming that is when this all went down) If a plant does have a Mg deficiency it's not going to show up until the plant is at least 4-6 weeks old. What drew you to that conclusion? I'm just curious, so we can perhaps diagnose things correctly.

As a side note, when you use coco (in whatever form) you have to use coco-specific nutrients. Not that you should be using nutrients at this stage yet...plants won't need food for a few more weeks at least.

Have you done anything about your temperatures yet? If the pics above are accurate, and your temps are ranging from 93F on the low end, and 99F on the high end in a 24hr period, that is your problem. You don't want to be much hotter than 85F at the most if you can help it. Mid 70s would be ideal.

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SilasZaneB said:

heres an update. can someone tell me what that rez looking stuff is all over the smallest one? its def. not water..
View attachment 2553915View attachment 2553916View attachment 2553917View attachment 2553918View attachment 2553919View attachment 2553920

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SilasZaneB said:

Here are some pictures that i just took. need to update i guess. haha
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SilasZaneB said:

I fixed the temp/hum. problem. actually did that the day after. its been a perfect high temp of 82 and low of 75 with humidity of about 35-40%
i was just guestimating that it was a mg deficiency fromt he color of leaves... but now the more it looks and stuff, i was looking at what leaves would look like from Potassium issues, and i think thats way more plausible
the exact thing that i read from a book about plant issues is the same im having, so i think it is K that is the issue

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RIKNSTEIN said:

How old is that plant? I hope you weren't feeding it until it's 3-4 weeks, that's the fastest way to kill your baby, and those temps are deadly for it too...I run those temps, but with clones and only clones..

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