Mother earth coco peat

Diesel0889

Well-Known Member
I have choose to go with this mix this round to build my soil. I plan to use subs recipe for a guideline and was wondering if anyone else has used this before and how it worked out for them. Also wondering anyone's ideas about adding mycos and fungi to the mix to aid in break down of my amendments. Not sure if there is a thing in it to help this.

If anyone has any input on this mix or a good way to activate it is appreciate it as id like to mix it tomorrow or the next day. Any info on this process helps. I was planning on useing a tea to help the process but not sure what one to use. I also have mamouth p if this would aid in my tea at all. Thanks in advance. Happy growing :bigjoint:
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I don't use Subcools mix but I do use many of the same amendments as he does. Organic soils all work the same way regardless of recipe. Diversity is more important than quantity when it comes to soil recipes; you want to add lots of different amendments in small amounts as opposed to large amounts of only a few amendments. The idea is to put everything the plants will need the entire grow in the mix way before the plants are in it so then all you need to give is water and the occasional compost tea just to keep the microbial party rocking. After you mix up all your soil amendments, minerals, and compost you typically need to let it set for 30 days which normalizes ph.
Granular mycorrhizae innoculant does nothing beneficial until it is in direct contact with plant roots. Sprinkle it in the hole just before you place the roots or root ball of your plant right on top of it at each transplant. Helps with absorbtion and break down of the soil but needs roots of a live plant to attach itself to before myco fungi can get to work.
What makes a soil "super" is compost; namely worm castings. It is what provides the source of microbial activity in your mix and is the main ingredient in most compost teas. You activate the soil just by adding it up to 50% of your mix. Vermicompost tends to be heavy and clumpy; aeration in the form of perlite or pumice and coco coir helps to lighten it up.
Mammoth P is a microbial innoculant and yes it can be used in a tea but it does not contain anything to actually feed your plants. Contains no actual P; just microbes. There are no NPK numbers in the label. Either way nothing from a bottle is as active microbially as worm casting and the fresher it is the better. You certainly don't need to use mammoth P but some growers report good results using it during bloom phase. Never used it myself as I have a worm bin and keep the soil active with this all purpose old stand by compost tea recipe:
2 cups EWC
1 tblspn molasses
1/4 cup kelp meal
3-5 gal clean water
Bubble voraciously for 36 hours and serve
Hope that helps; check out the organic section lots of good info there too
 
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