Most recent grow. Yellowing issue with burnt looking leaves

FirstCavApache64 said:

If the soil ph is accurate you really want to get that up into the 6.5 range if possible. I'd be feeding/watering at 6.8 from here on until you can get it back up. 5.5 would lock out both of the major nutrients you're low in. Even for hydro that's low but for soil it really is an issue. Stopping the molasses and going to a higher feed/water ph will help. Good on ya for doing that test. I've never done one myself and it's good info to have.

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Upon further testing, tap water pH is almost right at 6.5

I just saw Pegboy's comment and I'd missed the starting week 11 part of the thread to be honest. With so little time left before harvest I think it's a little late to start any drastic changes and hope for a rebound. I thought you still a bit to go before chop. I'd water them like normal without the molasses and just try to get them to the finish which should be pretty soon. For the next run I'd suggest skipping the molasses and trying to check the soil ph before you use it. Anything around 6.3-6.5 or so is good to start with. Then just ph your feed and water to be between 6.3-6.5 in veg and let it drift up in flower some, shooting for 6.5-6.8 in bloom.

Roger. Just watered full nutes. Will update with any changes over the next few days

You're going to make it to chop if you're at week 11. What is the breeder and strain? 11-12 weeks is about when I'll chop most strains, just depends on the strain.

Wastei said:

The plant even produce and release carbohydrates through its roots. Molasses will only cause bad integrity and structure of the soil.

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Correct. I get that, but aren't we talking about different types of carbs?

Hollatchaboy said:

Correct. I get that, but aren't we talking about different types of carbs?

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I don't know, I only pointed out the relation between the plant and the microbial life. They already produce most of what they need to grow if given the right environment.

I'm not sure who had said it but someone had mentioned not having enough lights? I've got 2,600 Watts. Two 1000 watt leds on the ends and a 600 w in the middle. The light meter reads between 20 and 25k lumens per 1000w light. 40-60k lumens in a 4x4 not enough??

LukeSkybud said:

I'm not sure who had said it but someone had mentioned not having enough lights? I've got 2,600 Watts. Two 1000 watt leds on the ends and a 600 w in the middle. The light meter reads between 20 and 25k lumens per 1000w light. 40-60k lumens in a 4x4 not enough??

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Are you absolutely sure they are what they say they are? Most led manufacturers don't put the actual wattage in the model#. So 1000 is usually 100. What brand leds and model#s do you have?

It for sure doesn't give what it says but under a light meter that's what the readings are

I don't have my light meter anymore, I have had these for a couple years now. Lost it in the move. I mean if you're really interested I could probably get a cheap light meter on Amazon and check it in a few days

Im finding the meter readings are under , so only tops some a few inches down are really just getting enough....for total canopy penetration into the lowest buds side lighting is needed more for some types, like the sun coming up in the mornings....some heavy windy airflow with 80000-150000 lumens lol for taller stretched plants...very heavy buds and still all green, a few days more and all will go yellow to pick

Bspectral said:

Im finding the meter readings are under , so only tops some a few inches down are really just getting enough....for total canopy penetration into the lowest buds side lighting is needed....some heavy windy airflow with 80000-150000 lumens lol for taller stretched plants

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Holy shit really? Like is this standard or is this door standard lol seriously I thought I have the perfect amount. Good looking out

A sunny summer day ,cloudless, is 120000-180000 varying around the world...some clouds or/and rain for a while then lowers to under 40000.....the better hps shine 130000+ ,have to crank LED 100% to get close or have them close lol

LukeSkybud said:

I don't have my light meter anymore, I have had these for a couple years now. Lost it in the move. I mean if you're really interested I could probably get a cheap light meter on Amazon and check it in a few days

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If you can just look at the drivers or the model and post them we could tell you what wattage they are most likely. It’s an LED scam if ya ask me they claim it’s a 1000w when they are only a 100w but they say they will replace a 1000w HPS it’s all hype and BS.

Here is a prime example. 1200w but only consumes 120w yet puts out 1200PPFD. Totally false advertising

This is Samsung 1 type I used...its commercial grade LED with 480w driver...162000 on my meter

Bspectral said:

This is Samsung 1 type I used...its commercial grade LED with 480w driver...162000 on my meter

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That's nice! Little more $ than I'm willing to spend at the moment but for sure a good recommendation for the future.

Got my ppm\ec meter. Lights come on at 7am est. I'll get those results up shortly!

Here is the testing results of my plant with the issues. Tested runoff and nutes before.
This is will full FF nutes (big 3) and no molasses.

Not super knowledgeable but this seems a little higher than it should be. My other plant's runoff was 850ppm:1500us\cm

It stayed steady between 990 and 1,010.

LukeSkybud said:

Here is the testing results of my plant with the issues. Tested runoff and nutes before. View attachment 5285661
This is will full FF nutes (big 3) and no molasses.
View attachment 5285662
Not super knowledgeable but this seems a little higher than it should be. My other plant's runoff was 850ppm:1500us\cm
View attachment 5285659
It stayed steady between 990 and 1,010.
View attachment 5285660

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Well one issue I see if the pots sitting in runoff. If you can raise the pots so the runoff goes into a drain pan and not sucked back up into the root zone. Other than that just keep them going to the finish line