Mosca seeds cinderella 99 BX-1 is this the best c99?????

Discussion in 'Seed and Strain Reviews' started by relisys, Jan 25, 2011.


    cerberus Well-Known Member

    ah hah!

    these three messages together make a good little bit of info
    karmas a bitch

    karmas a bitch Well-Known Member

    A11 is a c99 cross

    cerberus Well-Known Member

    whats the cross? c99 x something or a pheno of a c99 line that was bred to the a11?

    once i read this thread, I can really see the c99 in the a11, pretty obvious once it was pointed out.

    CaptainTripps Well-Known Member

    I don't think A11 is a cross of C99, I think they shared a parent. But thats just from memory... I've heard A11 described as C99 without the paranoia.
    karmas a bitch

    karmas a bitch Well-Known Member


    cerberus Well-Known Member

    awesome. great link meng

    SSHZ Well-Known Member

    By the way, I believe Mosca's C99 is Bros Grimm C99 X Reeferman C99, I think the pineapple pheno under the Bros Grimm.....
    abe supercro

    abe supercro Well-Known Member


    Corso312 Well-Known Member

    So I just got my hands on a mosca ten pack of the regular c99 bx1's ....will be popped on monday and grown in organic the whole 52-56 days and yank her frm the switch it appears to be the common theme here ...and top her ..any other tips? advice?

    Corso312 Well-Known Member

    Bump, got them soaking now...anyone got a journal on these?

    tricloud New Member

    Apollo11 is C99 x Genius. Apollo13 is P75xGenius. P75 is Princess back crossed 1 time. Genius is a sister of Princess.
    Angry Pollock likes this.

    2easy Well-Known Member

    im growing moscas c99 bx1 right now. very impressed so far.

    popped 3 seeds got 2 males and 1 fem. 1 male reeked of pineapple and i kept a cut of him for crosses ( pollinated my diesel)
    my femal has gotten to be very beautiful. she is at 2 weeks 12/12 in this pic and smells of strawberry's/red splits/bubblegum awesome








    sorry about the poor quality photos
    Worcester likes this.

    redzi Well-Known Member

    Great you had no problem getting males with C99? I bought the BX1 Mosca 10 pack form the Seed Depot... other than Eskobar and Sannies it is the only regular seeds that I have consistantly grown, wierd thing is that out of 5 seeds I had no males. I know that is not something to complain about but it made me wonder if someone treated them with that silver whatever that is used to fem seeds. In statistical analysis it is taght that the chance of a given 50/50 outcome 5 time in a row is 1/33 or .03125
    (.5X.5X.5X.5X.5). That is assuming that it is 50/50 female to male ratio which it is not with some strains ...anyway fuck the math does anyone have a high female ratio with Mosca C99?

    2easy Well-Known Member

    i got exactly 2 males and 1 female out of 3 seeds.

    coloidal silver isnt used on the seeds. it is used to stress a female plant and make it herm. then that pollen will be from a female plant carrying only female genes and can be used to pollinate itself (s1) or another female. either way the end result is all the seeds from that cross should be female as there was no male parent. just a little fyi
    Kite High

    Kite High Well-Known Member

    close but it does not stress the plant into herming...the silver replaces and/or blockss the copper molecule in the ethylene receptors...the copper ions are necessary for the receptor to fuction to detect the ethylene...since the ethylene cannot be detected the trigger from the hormone, ehtylene does not occur and makes male flowers grow instead...this pollen produced contains only x chromosomes and since the female that is pollinated from this pollen also has only x chromosomes then without any y chromosomes the progeny can only be female whether or not the plant is selfed, another plant pollinated with this pollen, or even an entirely different strain

    and here's how its done...easy as pie

    The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

    This process can be used to:
    A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
    B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
    C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
    D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
    E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
    F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

    At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

    It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference. Botany.pdf

    It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

    Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.

    Preparation of STS:
    First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

    Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

    Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
    Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

    The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

    The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

    This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

    Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

    Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

    The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

    After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

    So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

    A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

    Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

    It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

    When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

    When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

    A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

    Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

    This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

    If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

    Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

    Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

    About the chemicals:
    Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.


    .preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution

    silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.

    Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.

    The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
    Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.





    sodium thiosulfate

    Silver Nitrate


    2easy and Scroga like this.

    2easy Well-Known Member

    thank you for clearing that up kite high. great info +rep
    Kite High likes this.

    redzi Well-Known Member

    Yea that was interesting and I did find that on anouther message board (UK420) that there is a high female ratio in some strains including BX-1. The one thing that I read that will stop a good breed that produces great females seed after seed is the tendency to herm. Some of the marginal breeders have a problem with this. Not going to name names because other than bag seed I have never had any problems with it...but is does seem to be the same names popping up at diff. boards.
    Kite High

    Kite High Well-Known Member

    c99 is very famous for not herming even in adverse conditions

    stak Well-Known Member

    I bought the same seeds from the same store. I started five of them, two never germinated, and the other three were all females.

    redzi Well-Known Member

    Bump June, just received a pack of Mosca C99, the seeds (one cracked) are now packed by Seedsman (both a breeder and a bank) Thus far I am far less impressed with the vigor of this second batch. The seeds came in a plastic container that is designed to hold the same memory card that goes into cameras....the person packing it didn't get the seeds inside the notches and one was crushed. I still have some clones from the first batch and although they don't produce a lot at least you don't have to worry about odor.
    Scroga likes this.

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