A quick demonstration of this is dump the dirt from an aquarium filter into your water and measure the ppms.... It will hardly move, on account of you adding a bunch of purely organic shit.
in response to your post above
I think your still not exactly sure what elemental ppm is
you don't convert the elemental ppm into EC!!!! EC measure electrical conductivity in the solution...
the more mineral in the solution the higher the EC
you can convert EC into the fictitious "ppm" that your ppm meter will provide
for example
EC1.0 = 500ppm (if your meter is on the 5 scale) or 700ppm (if your on the 7 scale)
another words
EC x (either 5 or 7 depending on your meter brand) = fictitious ppm
"elemental ppm" is an individual break down of how much actual ppm (real ppm not fake) of each mineral or nutrient in the finished solution
for example
N 100PPM
P 50 ppm
K 150 ppm
these elemental ppm numbers can be pre determined using a calculator like hydrobuddy
(or if your a smart guy you could do your own math... im not a smart guy so I use the calculator )
definition;
elemental ppm = individual break down for each element in solution
EC = electrical conductivity of said solution
PPM (from a meter) = a fictitious number thru converting EC at a scale of 5/7 that serves no purpose except to confuse people
Oh well that's a bit of a kick in the nuts. So you have no real way of converting a persons given meter ppm to ec and then to elemental ppm?. I hope that isn't the case as it would make allot of info around here useless. I only care for the actual and accurate elemental ppm, so maybe I should seek more info on scholar where they only use that?.
When I read the back of my nute box it gives a figure in EC, around 1.0 for 1gpl e.g. I assume then, that they know the elemental ppm and used an EC meter to get the EC level, I just figured their would be a workable universal correlation from ec reading and then math conversion to elemental ppm because of that. But, if the ppm meters are so hit and miss then I guess none of that matters anyway, neither does ec for my purpose.
A quick demonstration of this is dump the dirt from an aquarium filter into your water and measure the ppms.... It will hardly move, on account of you adding a bunch of purely organic shit.
That's the next part of this, once I understand the upper/lower limits of what the plant needs in true ppm I then hope to feed the lower limit ppms with synthetic and then use organic top dress/brews etc to attain the upper limit. But I realize that's also going to be a cluster fuck to get right, if at all.
I suppose I may as well ask a question on that. If you are using synth/organic what are opinions on the synthetic ph in coco, would 6.0 be a happy medium?.
You can do that in coco pretty easily, in other media you will get fucked pretty quickly.
Soil don't want salts, and hydro is gonna give you a hard go at organics.
With synthetic on coco it is best to alternate, between about 5.8 and 6.2ish
You can do that in coco pretty easily, in other media you will get fucked pretty quickly.
Soil don't want salts, and hydro is gonna give you a hard go at organics.
With synthetic on coco it is best to alternate, between about 5.8 and 6.2ish
Most people are just going to dissuade you from trying to go down that route.
In coco you can veg pretty well with just about any generic over the counter organic bottled feed. I like to work a small amount of vermicompost in to my coco as an inoculant every time I bag up.
It tends to sort out any magnesium issues too.
I normally do that, and then do early to mid flowering with low-cost salt based feed, and taper off back on the bottled organic feed. The stuff smells mostly like kelp...
it only tells you if the electrical conductivity goes up or down to provide the grower with some gauge as to whats happening in the solution and for comparing your feed to waste in hydro
or it can also be used as a gauge for the overall strength of the solution based on previous bench marks