Might bring out the ec meter afterall.

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I see extremely heat and light stress. Your plants are foxtailing.

The ppfd map was pointed out to me as hot spotted and hot in general. The tips of spears are doing that but they are 2 inches into the light range allowed.

I dimmed to 75% and keeping cool. Trying to stop lights off RH spikes by supplementing heat, not sure it thats causing stress too.

I was wondering if any of this was feed related. The light stress only was recently factored in.
 

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Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
The ppfd map was pointed out to me as hot spotted and hot in general. The tips of spears are doing that but they are 2 inches into the light range allowed.

I dimmed to 75% and keeping cool. Trying to stop lights off RH spikes by supplementing heat, not sure it thats causing stress too.

I was wondering if any of this was feed related. The light stress only was recently factored in.
Man that light drops off quick at the edges. I would make my canopy shorter in the middle, and higher at the edges with that light.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Man that light drops off quick at the edges. I would make my canopy shorter in the middle, and higher at the edges with that light.
Im starting to see the flaws of the cheap light, a little harsh in lateflower/ripe. Not too bad but I might get a name brand light even for a 2x2.

I pretty much did that but with a 2x2 you quickly end up bunching the canopy into there. Maybe smaller pots for smaller plants next time.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
They say plants should stay green until chop or yellow nicely. I also read sugar leaves rust up, do they mean rusty like calmg defeciency?

Or is this just nearing the end and those leaves are considerably old (90 days) ? Or is this just heat stress and dryback stress/ph drifts? No one sees an issue with my regimen?

It gets bone dry over night due to no autofeed and runoff is 2.0EC in the mornings and drops to normal 1.5 EC at last feed, just to give an idea of how harsh the dryback is.

Edit: I changed a few things over course of 30 days IE from flora trio to 1 part maxi then adjusting ec from 1.9ec with tap total to 1.2ec with tap total, thus, dialing this back drastically so might also be why.

Learned more about DLI too late and likely exceeded it. Learned and applied all this too late into flower, this is an auto so 18hrs of that ppfd likely fried it some along with side lighting.
 
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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
After doing some reading/searching for the first time this run for leaf signs which started late flower, I think its the dryback and overfeeding, dialing it back a bit too late.

Not rust fungus as the examples I see look moldy, not calmg classic look. If runoff from dryback was getting to 2.0ec and was feeding about 2.0ec all flower, think I resolved my first issue. Wake up middle of night to feed/keep ec low lol.

Next time calculate dli better and have tall space to raise lights. Calculate vpd better, have it less cluttered. Cooler temps. Auto feed/no dryback. Dim lights or longer lights out (auto flower) or a more delicate/uniform ppfd map.

Cannot wait to see next round. Has to be the problem, it would make total sense.

Edit: eurika, the lights have no more space to raise and so no ceiling to absorb heat. Bingo! That is why this only recently became an issue with heat stress. I was like “why is this suddenly an issue in last month but not through stretch/mid flower?”

Cannot wait to have more tall space and auto feed. Was flipping through last months flower photos thinking “why was it green and all good then and now suddenly not in last month of flower?”
 
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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I keep dimming now at 60% and keeping space cool but I feel like I am crawling to the finish line.

I was sure I figured it out but have not dialed everything in yet, just trying to finish up already. I let it get to 90F with lights off to keep humidity spikes down. Need to use probe that I have to keep it cooler.

I am about to set up autofeed at the last second of this grow to avoid bone dry - dry back. Hoping keeping wet will work too, to stop issue from spreading.

It cannot be a classic need of calmg is it? Lock out? All I did was spike temps at night, allow harsh dry back and dialed back the EC but I had lock out before from improper nute ratios, having too much calmg. Heat can cause calmg rust spots?

I would be surprised if it was from the heat spike but the light stress I been known, I just can only dim or hang a lower watt / ppfd light up. Shit, I am just freakin weeks away. Showed up last few weeks.
 

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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Damn, forgot how much it helps to have a time line of photos, the ones I posted 10 days ago look way better, something is going wrong here. Just hang up the 130w vs 250w led and 800-1000ppfd vs 1000-1400ppfd.

Will keep it from exceeding too much heat. Will feed it one extra time nightly automatically. If that doesn’t work then damn, something wrong with my feed.

Edit: I was trippin out, seemed like it hammered down on me overnight. I should of acted fast but we will see if this helps. Just thought it was better than 70%rh at lights out. Wack a mole.

Again, I was screwed long ago when my height limi exceeding and did not scrog hard enough, soon enough. Even then, 5’ tent and 1.5’ tall pot level. Should have 2’ for the light. Light has no space above it.

Sucks because I thought things were going well and could start sharing how I did it but am reluctant to until I confirm this was my problem. I know less clutter is better but was trying to see if I could set a self record in 2x2. Perhaps the lower ppfd and wattage lights would do just fine.

Last edit: I got this when I let coco dry out in veg, weird spots and yellowing leaves etc. I wonder if that is enough to do this. I think it is, I just don’t see many people in this situation with coco drying out, hand watering.
 
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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
is that a crust of nute salts on a fabric pot??? if so, yikes!
It will just come right back and I am weeks away from chop. I wonder if it is my new feed regimen or the dryback. The tap water. The crammed space and poor lighting. 92F night temps. Leaves are crawling to finish line. Embarrassing.
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Everyone is shocked to see the build up lol is this not normal? Is this a sign of harsh dryback? Would make sense. Should it be scrubbed clean a few times a grow? I don’t read anywhere to do that. The salt build up shouldn’t cause issues, I did not think.

Edit: I guess I could scrub it. Am I trippin or is it turning green from copper like the statue librety lol.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Everyone is shocked to see the build up lol is this not normal? Is this a sign of harsh dryback? Would make sense. Should it be scrubbed clean a few times a grow? I don’t read anywhere to do that. The salt build up shouldn’t cause issues, I did not think.

Edit: I guess I could scrub it. Am I trippin or is it turning green from copper like the statue librety lol.
if you are lucky, you might make it to harvest. i'm fairly new to coco but plastic pots with good drainage instead of fabric "sponge" pots

i'd maybe try to wash them from the outside to get rid of as much of that crap as possible
 

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
Everyone is shocked to see the build up lol is this not normal? Is this a sign of harsh dryback? Would make sense. Should it be scrubbed clean a few times a grow? I don’t read anywhere to do that. The salt build up shouldn’t cause issues, I did not think.

Edit: I guess I could scrub it. Am I trippin or is it turning green from copper like the statue librety lol.
This is what mine looks like with 5 waterings a day....Screenshot_20230323_110356_Gallery.jpg
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Autofeed is sailing, just need to maintain it. I set up a probe for when lights out, to warm the tent with a 50w space heater. This is to stop the RH from spiking when lights out up to 80% but not exceed 82F. This could easily attest to heat stress, harsher dryback and etc. It was hitting 93F.

The lights are at 60% and may dim them a little more to 50% since people do this at this time anyway and I am better off finishing with the light at this point.

I freak until I look again with my own eyes to see it is first layer of surface leaves, there are plenty of green leaves throughout. It doesn’t look bad. Using a lower ppfd light with tall space should avoid the foxtailing/fisting. Lets see how this goes.

If it still happens and with my next grow then you cannot say growing is easy. Clearly trying to tell me something is very wrong and should be easy to find out what it is type of thing, because of how bad the leaves are as shown.

So this an example of mobile nute deficiency from the dryback and/or scortching it with the light/heat. So far that is what I am hearing and seeing.

Hopefully nothing with the tap and dialing Ec back. I will post next grows here to further trial/error (hopefully no need to.)

People defoliate through flower so lots of those could be plucked and expose green leaves, I just am scared of budrot with such crammed space.

Auto feed 5 times a day, fill rez twice per ten hrs and pump ruonoff to bucket to toss daily.
 

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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
It has continued to die out a bit, 9 days later and a couple weeks ago looking at that overhead canopy photo, easy way to compare and see. Any thoughts on this?

I am thinking I did all I could, some changes may take weeks to show or the leaves continue to die out after so much of it dries out or dies out.

Temps and rh has been great, auto feed 5 times a day and light dimmed 60%. Day time 82F RH45 night time 80F RH55%. PH 5.8 to 6.2. Temp probe reads 90 in the ceiling area often, but I cool space down when I see that.

EC 1.2 total. Do people scale it back further in ripe? I also do not want to prune those leaves to chance budrot but also should to prevent that. I might go at it right now, I just thought leaving them on to see how they continue to respond would be best.

15 weeks from seed.
 

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Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
It has continued to die out a bit, 9 days later and a couple weeks ago looking at that overhead canopy photo, easy way to compare and see. Any thoughts on this?

I am thinking I did all I could, some changes may take weeks to show or the leaves continue to die out after so much of it dries out or dies out.

Temps and rh has been great, auto feed 5 times a day and light dimmed 60%. Day time 82F RH45 night time 80F RH55%. PH 5.8 to 6.2. Temp probe reads 90 in the ceiling area often, but I cool space down when I see that.

EC 1.2 total. Do people scale it back further in ripe? I also do not want to prune those leaves to chance budrot but also should to prevent that. I might go at it right now, I just thought leaving them on to see how they continue to respond would be best.

15 weeks from seed.
Holy Foxtails!!!
 
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