Mechanic thread....

If you are going to junk it, you can grind up a teaspoon Flax seed, add to the radiator as it's flowing. That should take of the heater core. I've never tried it for a head gasket. Who know's? Just might work.
I drove the truck 60 miles yesterday without any problems. Gonna check the oil & coolant this morning. I *really* hope it's not a blown head gasket. It's only got 192K miles on it. Today I'm going to haul a few loads of compost from a local farm. It's the cheapest & easiest way to keep my trees & shrubs fertilized.
 
I drove the truck 60 miles yesterday without any problems. Gonna check the oil & coolant this morning. I *really* hope it's not a blown head gasket. It's only got 192K miles on it. Today I'm going to haul a few loads of compost from a local farm. It's the cheapest & easiest way to keep my trees & shrubs fertilized.
I don't mean to step on mr sunshines toes again, but unless someone put water purposely in with the oil, it's most likely a blown head gasket :-(
If you wanna try and get as many miles out of it before it blows up, you should drain all fluids. Refill. Put some Prestone stop leak, or Bar's liquid aluminum, or Bar's head gasket fix in with the coolant, and pray everytime you drive.
 
I don't mean to step on mr sunshines toes again, but unless someone put water purposely in with the oil, it's most likely a blown head gasket :-(
If you wanna try and get as many miles out of it before it blows up, you should drain all fluids. Refill. Put some Prestone stop leak, or Bar's liquid aluminum in with the coolant, and pray everytime you drive.
Isn't it possible for condensation to build up over years of inactivity? I thought that was how gas got water in it -- lots of warm/cold cycles.
 
Park on a hill and let the car idle, get out and check the exhaust. If the gasket leak is significant quite a bit of water should come running out the exhaust.

I'd rather take care of the gasket then let the water start eating into the head, then it needs welding and that gets expensive. There are some vids on youtube showing how to blocksand your own head and block, it is pretty straight forward work. Or you can take the head to an engineering firm to skim it flat. The top of the block needs to be checked with a straight edge for any sagging

The trick for letting a gasket last is to use distilled water from new always combined with the recommended ratio of antifreeze. It needs to be replaced once or twice a year. Spending that bit of time and money from new combined with regular oil changes (use the cheap stuff if you do it regularly) can get many hundreds of thousands out of a car. I also use Wynn's Shield in my oil for durability.

THere is another way of checking for gasket leaks but try the hill thing first.
 
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Had 3 of those, two after 150-160K and once in a 50K car that sat idle for 5 yrs.

192K is a lot for a gasket. I like when you can see it squirting out under pressure. No doubt at that point.
I've never had a head gasket go out in a Toyota. My corolla has 150K miles & is going strong. Also had a '97 Tacoma with almost 300K miles.
I bought a brand new Ford Ranger in 1988 and the head gasket blew at 61,000 miles -- right after the warranty expired.
 
I've never had a head gasket go out in a Toyota. My corolla has 150K miles & is going strong. Also had a '97 Tacoma with almost 300K miles.
I bought a brand new Ford Ranger in 1988 and the head gasket blew at 61,000 miles -- right after the warranty expired.
Those are great engines, but they use crappy oil rings, they all start to smoke towards 200k, Rebuild mine, the bearings were still silver and the original factory honing, perfect. literally only needed new rings and valve stem seals. Unfortunately, it is easiest to leave the block in, and just drop the cross-member and pull the crank and pistons out the bottom, so you need to buy bearings and decoke set anyway. About $200 to $300 in parts if you do the labor.
 
Those are great engines, but they use crappy oil rings, they all start to smoke towards 200k, Rebuild mine, the bearings were still silver and the original factory honing, perfect. literally only needed new rings and valve stem seals. Unfortunately, it is easiest to leave the block in, and just drop the cross-member and pull the crank and pistons out the bottom, so you need to buy bearings and decoke set anyway. About $200 to $300 in parts if you do the labor.
I've always treated my engines with a high-end lube to minimize friction. Dura-Lube was my favorite, but I'm pretty sure I used Z-max on the Corolla. Neither one of them smoke & power is still very good.
 
We opened the engine of a Hyundai Getz. The guy never changed the oil. You couldn't stir the oil in the sump with a wooden spoon. It was just one big black lump
 
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