Why avoid SF? I think i am making up my mind and probl go for the Mars Hydro ts 3000 Because of the price. With shipping the Spider Farmer is close to 200 USD more... I guess everything is better than ny 176 true wattSo @Mr Hill ; from the Samsung site https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/applications/horticulture-lighting/.
You can pick this from the list https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/mid-power-leds/3030-leds/lm301h
A search on their site for LM301B gives https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/mid-power-leds/3030-leds/lm301b/
The only difference I found was the whites are 3.1 micromoles in the H boards and a bit less in the B boards. Here's a quote from Samsung on the B boards "In addition, the white LED packages and modules feature extremely high light efficacy of 2.92 micromoles per joule (μmol/J) (65mA), 2.72μmol/J (65mA), 2.43μmol/J (0.45A, 21.9V) and 1.76μmol/J (1.38A, 46.9V), respectively ".
I had a spider-farmer and have 4 of the 250 watt setups I mentioned. The Spider Farmer has nice fit and finish plus a nice waterproof coating on it. The whites are all 4000K (close to the old MH spectrum) so it's best for veg. The newer ones have a potentiometer on them which is handy in veg so you don't burn small plants. All things being equal I sold mine to a friend for a veg light. The spider-farmer boards were also bigger than the quantum boards. By a few inches in length and width. The diodes were spaced a little farther apart in the spider because of this. I didn't check the number of diodes but if they're the same in the H and B boards then the B board would give less intensity. The same number of diodes spaced a few inches farther apart would give less intensity; right. Probably more info than you want, but me personally; I like the H boards and avoid Spider-Farmer.
If you want to know what can go wrong with LEDs (beside the driver burning out) check my link https://www.rollitup.org/t/burnt-led-diodes.1042218/unread