Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
that's right medium hard tap will already contain it sufficientlyI've gotta be careful adding amendments high in Ca. Ca locks out P and K. I use my well water and it's only like 140ppm, but it's probably mostly Ca.
that's right medium hard tap will already contain it sufficientlyI've gotta be careful adding amendments high in Ca. Ca locks out P and K. I use my well water and it's only like 140ppm, but it's probably mostly Ca.
It's apparent to me that y'all will never believe anything I write regardless of how much "proof" I provide, but high calcium does not block the uptake of p or k. Low calcium will definitely block p uptake though. Hard water isn't good for nutrient availability. It's more likely the hard water is making ca unavailable which in turn makes p unavailable. Also, it's very important to let a soil sit for 4-6 weeks after amending it. Soil and nutrient manufacturers are completely clueless when it comes to formulating a balanced soil or nutrient formula. I know that doesn't make sense, but it's the way it is. There is absolutely no reason to increase soil volume to provide proper nutrition to a plant. People do that because they don't know a better way. Why are you guys so adamant about your beliefs and unwilling to accept that there may be a better way?
I wasn't trying to be a dick. Just having some fun with ya. But too much Ca can lock out K, P, and Mg, plus other stuff.Ok. I'm done then. I'm sure you'll be happy that you won't have to have any of your beliefs challenged anymore. If you ever take a moment to read slownickel's thread on I-c-m-a-g or read "more food from soil chemistry" you"ll see what I mean. I'm not an idiot.
I just read 4 posts & that guy seems to be a lout spewing forth bro'science nonsense in every 2nd sentence. He's refering to Coco as soil, that has too high Mg in it, that must be flushed out with gypsum because the Ca will increase oxygen and of course the 100% idiot theory that more water will equate more oxygen to drowning roots.... then he suspects the bicarbonates in hard tapwater prevent that and blocks the Ca but that guy actually uses rainwater, then suddenly it's the low P and so on & forth....slownickel's thread on I-c-m-a-g
It seems like you just want to argue with me because you keep twisting my words....or you don't read carefully. I wrote there is no reason to up-pot a plant to provide proper nutrition. Yes, it will increase the amount of nutrients in proportion to the increase in soil volume. If there are only 2 or 3 ppms of zinc in the soil to begin with and there need to be 25 ppms, are you going to increase the soil volume 8-10 times? That seems absurd to me when adding a very small amount of zinc sulfate will make the same adjustment. That was the point I was making.About what type of soil you are actually refering to? Sandy loam? Please name its composition completely otherwise we'll be just heading down in a wild goose chase with a guy that just denied up-potting to fresh soil won't increase nutritions or jumps from soil compositions to bottled nutes ratios in the very same paragraph.
could you cite a scientific source to backup this statementI do know that cannabis still undergoes a root flush at the beginning of flowering, and the new roots are stunted by K.
I can, but I have no reason to since you've totally ignored all the other data I've provided and continue to argue with me.could you cite a scientific source to backup this statement
well I went over to ICMag but that guy isnt a good source of info. If he's a weedhead he destroys his memory & ability to make correct associations anywayI can, but I have no reason to since you've totally ignored all the other data I've provided and continue to argue with me.
I did not ignore but reject based on the questionability of the sourceI can, but I have no reason to since you've totally ignored all the other data I've provided and continue to argue with me.
how do you know this when a veg fertilizer was given?If there are only 2 or 3 ppms of zinc in the soil to begin with and there need to be 25 ppms
It would help if you would break up those paragraphs. Makes it easier for the reader.I came back because I realized that increasing the volume of the soil by using the same soil will keep the ppms of all nutrients the same as ppms are a ratio to begin with not the total amount in the soil. That brings me back to saying the correct course of action is to increase the amount of nutrients in the soil, not the soil volume. I don't know that there were only 2-3 ppms of zinc to begin with in the OP's soil, but he was using FFOF soil, and I happened to find results from an actual soil analysis performed on two different bags of FFOF soil. That's the best I could do. I don't see anyone else providing a soil analysis on FFOF soil, so we'll have to settle for the ones that I found. It is possible that the OP's veg nutes had some zinc sulfate and manganese sulfate in them, but as far as I'm aware those would only be contained in a micronutrient blend which wasn't mentioned. So again, I am making the most educated guess I can given the info provided. However, I didn't claim that the soil didn't need anything added for 30 days without any sort of evidence to the contrary just because it says so on the bag like you did. Also, I can tell by looking at the pics of the plants that they are zinc deficient. I've seen it multiple times before, and I've never seen a bagged "soil" with zinc sulfate added. Like I've stated before, it is necessary to add zinc sulfate to get anywhere near the required amount. Debate me all you want, it won't change that fact.