Magnesium Deficiency or something else?

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
Of course it's not necessary, but it may still create improvements. Spraying a plant with a foliar feed is a lot of work?
When the plants are happy I consider it contraproductive since it may cause burn to the new growth and partialy stress the plant. I just like to keep my environment clean, especially when the plant is in the tent. I can see some benefits in specific situations but in common day I find it useless…
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
i'm not familiar with the formula of maxi products. i use Jack's 3-2-1. half strength for veg, full strength for flower. i mix up a jug of 200 ppm MKP and add 200 ml of that every three days for the first three weeks of flower. i have a jug of sul-po-mag mixed up at 150 ppm, and give them 200 ml of that every other day when they start to swell, maybe 3 times total...and shit stays healthy and green till the end. when i was using premixed shit i hadi trouble all the time, and it was stupidly expensive and complicated.
all i can recommend is trying to replicate the ratio of 3-2-1 with the products you're using
The GH Maxi stuff is somewhat like the Jacks or other nutrient 'systems' that you don't have to mix/match along the way. MaxiGro for veg and MaxiBloom for flower, though many say that you can just use the MaxiBloom at 5 to 7g and it's basically Lucas formula. I've had a better time with it than Trio and none of the mixing beyond weighing it. This grow I haven't had any nutrient burn from it, though at 6g of MaxiGro, I think it verges on more than enough Nitrogen. MaxiGro is 10-5-14 and MaxiBloom is 5-15-14
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Of course it's not necessary, but it may still create improvements. Spraying a plant with a foliar feed is a lot of work?
Certainly wasn't any real work for me. Took less than 5 minutes to mix it up and less than 30 seconds to spray it.

In my case, if only one of my plants is having a Ca or Mg issue, easy enough to just spray one plant twice a week. I've adjusted my res to be a little lower in pH to see if that helps things and we're just gonna see if between the two tactics we can nudge this plant back. Luckily it isn't one of those issues that has gotten to a really bad advanced state. Just a couple lower leaves, and not extensive spots/chlorosis.

From what I can tell the benefits of a foliar spray is the speed at which it works, and that you can target specific plants rather than the whole 'crop'.
 

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
The GH Maxi stuff is somewhat like the Jacks or other nutrient 'systems' that you don't have to mix/match along the way. MaxiGro for veg and MaxiBloom for flower, though many say that you can just use the MaxiBloom at 5 to 7g and it's basically Lucas formula. I've had a better time with it than Trio and none of the mixing beyond weighing it. This grow I haven't had any nutrient burn from it, though at 6g of MaxiGro, I think it verges on more than enough Nitrogen. MaxiGro is 10-5-14 and MaxiBloom is 5-15-14
Fyi I do use 20-20-20 through whole veg till 4th week of flower and I need to say the best fertilizer I have ever used. Simple, cheap and effective. Here in EU we are kinda limited when it comes to cannabis specific products, even that maxibloom seems to be suspicious since it has different colour than maxibloom used overseas. It is not about label but its about the content, plants do not see labels, just nutrient elements and those has to be in proper ratios… Lucas formula is outdated stuff which only saves you one step in mixing your nutrient mix, there is absolutely nosthing special about that.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Fyi I do use 20-20-20 through whole veg till 4th week of flower and I need to say the best fertilizer I have ever used. Simple, cheap and effective. Here in EU we are kinda limited when it comes to cannabis specific products, even that maxibloom seems to be suspicious since it has different colour than maxibloom used overseas. It is not about label but its about the content, plants do not see labels, just nutrient elements and those has to be in proper ratios… Lucas formula is outdated stuff which only saves you one step in mixing your nutrient mix, there is absolutely nosthing special about that.
I'm pretty sure that any color involved is just a mild dye so you can see it in the water and differentiate it from water or another mix. Not too concerned. Lots of people with a proven track record with the Maxi stuff and success, and rather than mixing or using multiple nutrient components together, if it's successful with a flower/veg pair, I'm happy. So far it's been fine.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Lets say it has same value as using microbes in coco or silicates in “soil”… U feel me?
foliar feeding works, but it subverts the plants natural processes. if you have a calcium deficiency, spraying with a cal-mag solution will help stop more damage from occuring, but it does nothing to resolve the root cause of the issue, which is the real problem with foliar feeding, it should only be used as a bandaid, and not a cure
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
The GH Maxi stuff is somewhat like the Jacks or other nutrient 'systems' that you don't have to mix/match along the way. MaxiGro for veg and MaxiBloom for flower, though many say that you can just use the MaxiBloom at 5 to 7g and it's basically Lucas formula. I've had a better time with it than Trio and none of the mixing beyond weighing it. This grow I haven't had any nutrient burn from it, though at 6g of MaxiGro, I think it verges on more than enough Nitrogen. MaxiGro is 10-5-14 and MaxiBloom is 5-15-14
It's not; Lucas formula (1 micro : 2 bloom) has a very similar nute profile to FloraNova bloom

Maxibloom has considerably less N and Ca proportionally

Floranova Bloom:
floranovabloom5ml.png

Lucas (1M:2B):
Lucas_816.png

Maxibloom:
MaxiBloom5g.png
 
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Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
foliar feeding works, but it subverts the plants natural processes. if you have a calcium deficiency, spraying with a cal-mag solution will help stop more damage from occuring, but it does nothing to resolve the root cause of the issue, which is the real problem with foliar feeding, it should only be used as a bandaid, and not a cure
I have not said it does not work, I said it is completely useless when you know how to take proper care of your plants. Same with IPM if you are dick you have to spray…
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
When the plants are happy I consider it contraproductive since it may cause burn to the new growth and partialy stress the plant. I just like to keep my environment clean, especially when the plant is in the tent. I can see some benefits in specific situations but in common day I find it useless…
There are many different types of foliar applications, and most are not counter-productive. As an example a foliar spray of Southern Ag GFF in early flowering will prevent mildew and rot in crops which may otherwise have issues. In terms of foliar feeding, you need to spray the underside of the leaves, where the stomata are, and you can get much quicker nutrient absorption into the plant compared with root feeding, which is beneficial in sudden nute deficient situations.
 

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
There are many different types of foliar applications, and most are not counter-productive. As an example a foliar spray of Southern Ag GFF in early flowering will prevent mildew and rot in crops which may otherwise have issues. In terms of foliar feeding, you need to spray the underside of the leaves, where the stomata are, and you can get much quicker nutrient absorption into the plant compared with root feeding, which is beneficial in sudden nute deficient situations.
If I was able to buy all of that stuff, I would maybe reconsider that, maybe but probably not… I have been spraying plants with neem and now I know, I would rather trash sick or infested plant before flip than go thru shit and losing all that time and effort for future 3 months. I am lucky I do not have WPM issues, but I also believe its partially because of me putting highest priority to avoid those things. I do not need explosive growth or megazila dicks or fast flowering. I still have lot to improve before I start experimenting with foliar. I also see other more interesting parts of growing to explore like far red EoD treatment or UV or specific dose of phosphorus in early flowering more beneficial than spraying plants to make them stronger against fungus or fixing your feeding or treatment errors. But its just me and I still consider myself as a noob waiting for the “perfect” run…
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
If I was able to buy all of that stuff, I would maybe reconsider that, maybe but probably not… I have been spraying plants with neem and now I know, I would rather trash sick or infested plant before flip than go thru shit and losing all that time and effort for future 3 months. I am lucky I do not have WPM issues, but I also believe its partially because of me putting highest priority to avoid those things. I do not need explosive growth or megazila dicks or fast flowering. I still have lot to improve before I start experimenting with foliar. I also see other more interesting parts of growing to explore like far red EoD treatment or UV or specific dose of phosphorus in early flowering more beneficial than spraying plants to make them stronger against fungus or fixing your feeding or treatment errors. But its just me and I still consider myself as a noob waiting for the “perfect” run…
I don't use neem on Cannabis, I think it's nasty when used on any consumables. The only thing I ever use neem on is rose bushes.

I've been using far red EoD for years. My UVB lamp has been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years now. I do various sprays intermittently, but never in mid-late flowering. Some of the various sprays I'll use from time to time are: 50% nute solution, Southern AG GFF, mono-silicic acid, citric acid, soybean oil, and sts/colloidal silver for those gender-fluid times.
 

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
so you're trashing a method you haven't even experimented with yourself? skittish toombs, very skittish...
it is not a method to use as a regular part of feeding, but it definitely has it's applications.
I have tried and have not found any benefit from this method better than common nutrient uptake through root membrane. I have tried it also on the sick plant but you can go fak off if your problem is in your root zone. Maybe you can try to cut the plant and spray it to see how long it will last and how much bud it will produce.
 

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
I don't use neem on Cannabis, I think it's nasty when used on any consumables. The only thing I ever use neem on is rose bushes.

I've been using far red EoD for years. My UVB lamp has been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years now. I do various sprays intermittently, but never in mid-late flowering. Some of the various sprays I'll use from time to time are: 50% nute solution, Southern AG GFF, mono-silicic acid, citric acid, soybean oil, and sts/colloidal silver for those gender-fluid times.
Nobody said I have sprayed something even close to flower. You mean your uvb for reptiles? And what are your observation of EoD for years? What kind of LED are you using? I have so many questions about this topic… why do you spray citric acid on your plants? I have not seen to kill a single thrip thanks to citric acid. Are you just listing things what other here are claiming they use with success. Like ladybugs?
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Nobody said I have sprayed something even close to flower. You mean your uvb for reptiles? And what are your observation of EoD for years? What kind of LED are you using? I have so many questions about this topic… why do you spray citric acid on your plants? I have not seen to kill a single thrip thanks to citric acid. Are you just listing things what other here are claiming they use with success. Like ladybugs?
I can't decide if these are genuine questions from you, or if you are just being flippant. Regardless, I will answer anyways.. First of all I never suggested that you sprayed close to flower, so not sure why you are stating that. No my UVB are not for reptiles, they are for plants. AgroMax Pure UV T5's. I don't use them much these days. Far Red EoD works; earlier onset of flowering, and you can shorten your dark hours too if you like. I use different lights for different times of the year. I use Mars Hydro FC fixtures in the warm times, and a combo of Ceramic Metal Halide and HLG QB96 LEDs during the colder season. I don't use citric acid on my plants often, I use it to sterilize my space more than anything, however if I have an insect outbreak it is part of my 1-2 punch, as just soybeal oil alone will not kill all pests. I don't use labybugs indoors, but I do usually order some for my outdoor garden when I place orders for nematodes or predatory mites. My kids like ladybugs and they're cheap. Are you just asking questions to be a pest, or do you really care about the info?
 

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
I can't decide if these are genuine questions from you, or if you are just being flippant. Regardless, I will answer anyways.. First of all I never suggested that you sprayed close to flower, so not sure why you are stating that. No my UVB are not for reptiles, they are for plants. AgroMax Pure UV T5's. I don't use them much these days. Far Red EoD works; earlier onset of flowering, and you can shorten your dark hours too if you like. I use different lights for different times of the year. I use Mars Hydro FC fixtures in the warm times, and a combo of Ceramic Metal Halide and HLG QB96 LEDs during the colder season. I don't use citric acid on my plants often, I use it to sterilize my space more than anything, however if I have an insect outbreak it is part of my 1-2 punch, as just soybeal oil alone will not kill all pests. I don't use labybugs indoors, but I do usually order some for my outdoor garden when I place orders for nematodes or predatory mites. My kids like ladybugs and they're cheap. Are you just asking questions to be a pest, or do you really care about the info?
Yes dude these are my questions and i really care about the info. I meant your FR lights, where, how much, how long and distance… I am asking silly questions because I suspect those “methods” uneffective and they are given as advices daily. I believe that most of them havent even tried that only writing what they have read here. And thats kinda ridiculous. Anyway thanks you have answered, we can discuss it for ages and this is thread about something else. I do not want to be a “pest” so I appologise myself if I was rude to somebody, but I am leaving this funny stuff. Good luck OP!
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Yes dude these are my questions and i really care about the info. I meant your FR lights, where, how much, how long and distance… I am asking silly questions because I suspect those “methods” uneffective and they are given as advices daily. I believe that most of them havent even tried that only writing what they have read here. And thats kinda ridiculous. Anyway thanks you have answered, we can discuss it for ages and this is thread about something else. I do not want to be a “pest” so I appologise myself if I was rude to somebody, but I am leaving this funny stuff. Good luck OP!
I use one of these in a 4x4 tent: https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/flowering-initiator-bulb

It turns on 5 minutes before main lights out, and stays on for 15-minutes after lights out.

Perhaps in the future before you create opinions on what you deem to be ridiculousness, you might want to slow your roll and hear what some of us who have already been practicing these exercises have learned. Your previous posts show clearly that you assumed that I was somehow parroting things that I had "heard on the net", but without having actual experience in the matter. That assumption was wrong however. I've been exploring atypical lighting longer than you've been growing.
 

Bukvičák

Well-Known Member
I use one of these in a 4x4 tent: https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/flowering-initiator-bulb

It turns on 5 minutes before main lights out, and stays on for 15-minutes after lights out.

Perhaps in the future before you create opinions on what you deem to be ridiculousness, you might want to slow your roll and hear what some of us who have already been practicing these exercises have learned. Your previous posts show clearly that you assumed that I was somehow parroting things that I had "heard on the net", but without having actual experience in the matter. That assumption was wrong however. I've been exploring atypical lighting longer than you've been growing.
Okay dude all I can tell is, your EoD treatment is/was not done properly. The thing you are doing something “longer than I have been growing” does not mean you are doing it good or better than me. I have never said that YOU are parroting the net, but obviously you do. I do not have any intension to argue with you. Have a nice day.
 
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