Mag Deficiency? not sure, any help would be great. Pics inside

Aight, 4 ladies, 2 plants have this issue. Rust spots and the ends of the leaves are curling. I've done alot of research, but there are so many issues with these symptoms. Lotta people say cal/mag deficiency. Also PH is what alot of people say too. I've even read people stating that it could be a phosphorus deficiency. But here we go:

2 weeks into flowering, in Fox Farms OF soil, using Fox Farms nutes, i feed the plants every other watering. PH has always been between 6.5-7.0 and i check it every time before i water. Just added tiger bloom for the first time 3 days ago. That's the only thing out of the ordinary other than the fact that i left the humidifier on all night 2 nights ago and it got up to 82% RH. But not sure that would cause this. Here's some Pics

Id say Mag, its deffecient.
I used Hydrated lime for mine. 1 tblspoon in a gal of water.
It contains Mag, Cal, an will nutralize the Ph back to 7 incase its out of whack.

I'm in the same boat as everyone else. You have some old damage, probably pH and magnesium related, but that problem is gone now probably as a result of your supplementing a little more Mg.

Any issues you are seeing now started about 10 days ago or so. Whatever you were doing then has caused what you are seeing now. Probably a little too much Nitrogen in the system whilst carrying a too low pH.

My suggestion to you is to stay the course with the Tiger bloom and wait another week before making any more major changes. Of course, get a good deal of run off and always make sure your pH is in range both in and out. You always want both between 7.0 and 6.5pH, never "high-low" the system to get your runoff in range.

To kind of fill you in. The brown spotting is mag deficiency resolved. The new problem you have going on is the kind of "bluish" green look to your leaves and the hook at the ends of them. This indicates a nitrate imbalance which has caused a minor phosphorus deficiency. These problems are often accompanied by low pH feedings with Nitrogen dominant NPK ratios. If this sounds right to you, then you're not too far gone from the "straight and narrow" and if you stay the course with the tiger bloom for a bit longer I think you'll see the right colors come back to the plant.

SCARHOLE said:

Id say Mag, its deffecient.
I used Hydrated lime for mine. 1 tblspoon in a gal of water.
It contains Mag, Cal, an will nutralize the Ph back to 7 incase its out of whack.

Click to expand...

Ya the majority of posts and websites I've found on the subject all point to Mg Def. Wondering if that's the general consensus here and if that's the case, would epsom salt be a good remedy?

SCARHOLE said:

Id say Mag, its deffecient.
I used Hydrated lime for mine. 1 tblspoon in a gal of water.
It contains Mag, Cal, an will nutralize the Ph back to 7 incase its out of whack.

Click to expand...

No it doesn't...

Hydrated lime is going to be 99.9% Calcium Hydroxide due to the slaking process and magnesium oxide being a less massive and dense molecular compound.

If you want Magnesium then you should be looking into dolomite garden lime rather than simple agricultural lime (which has many other uses).

You can look it up if you like. The internet is a beautiful thing.

Snow Crash said:

I'm in the same boat as everyone else. You have some old damage, probably pH and magnesium related, but that problem is gone now probably as a result of your supplementing a little more Mg.

Any issues you are seeing now started about 10 days ago or so. Whatever you were doing then has caused this now. Probably a little too Nitrogen in the system while carrying a too low pH.

My suggestion to you is to stay the course with the Tiger bloom and wait another week before making any more major changes. Of course, get a good deal of run off and always make sure your pH is in range both in and out. You always want both between 7.0 and 6.5pH, never "high-low" the system to get your runoff in range.

To kind of fill you in. The brown spotting is mag deficiency resolved. The new problem you have going on is the kind of "bluish" green look to your leaves and the hook at the ends of them. This indicates a nitrate imbalance which has caused a minor phosphorus deficiency. These problems are often accompanied by low pH feedings with Nitrogen dominant NPK ratios. If this sounds right to you, then you're not too far gone from the "straight and narrow" and if you stay the course with the tiger bloom for a bit longer I think you'll see the right colors come back to the plant.

Click to expand...

lol, I'll keep up the regular schedule, however I don't knwo if it's the pic, but there is no blueish hue whatsoever, these babies are green and LUSCIOUS! hehe. they were doing fine until I noticed this shit today.

Also, yer saying i shouldn't correct anything as of now? it's going to be fine as long as i keep going with Tiger Bloom? Also should i back off of Grow Big? And how did the Mg def get resolved?

Im using Dolomatic Hydrated lime....

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Terminology & Specifications

Q: What is lime? What are the differences between quicklime and hydrated lime, high calcium lime and dolomitic lime?

A: Lime is a generic term, but by strict definition it embraces only the manufactured forms of lime—quicklime and hydrated lime. It does not include limestone, which is the feedstock for lime manufacturing (click here for a short description on how lime is produced).







Quicklime, the product of calcination of limestone, consists of the oxides of calcium and magnesium, and in the United States it is available in three forms:

• High calcium quicklime--derived from limestone containing 0 to 5 percent magnesium carbonate.
• Magnesian quicklime--derived from limestone containing 5 to 35 percent magnesium carbonate.
• Dolomitic quicklime--derived from limestone containing 35 to 46 percent magnesium carbonate.

Hydrated lime is a dry powder manufactured by treating quicklime with sufficient water to satisfy its chemical affinity for water, thereby converting the oxides to hydroxides. Depending upon the type of quicklime used and the hydrating conditions employed, the amount of water in chemical combination varies, as follows:

• High calcium hydrated lime--high calcium quicklime produces a hydrated lime containing generally 72 to 74 percent calcium oxide and 23 to 24 percent chemically combined water.
• Dolomitic hydrated lime (normal)--under atmospheric hydrating conditions only the calcium oxide fraction of dolomitic quicklime hydrates, producing a hydrated lime of the following chemical composition: 46 to 48 percent calcium oxide, 33 to 34 percent magnesium oxide, and 15 to 17 percent chemically combined water.
• Dolomitic hydrated lime (pressure)--this lime is produced from dolomitic quicklime under pressure, which results in hydrating all of the magnesium oxide as well as all of the calcium oxide, producing the following chemical composition: 40 to 42 percent calcium oxide, 29 to 30 percent magnesium oxide, and 25 to 27 percent chemically combined water.

Hydrated lime is VERY safe, I just had the same problem last week.
In 2 days after the Lime treatment leafs that were almost yellow were pretty dam green.


Your right Epsom salt would also add MaG, but the hyrdated lime is better.


But Im a soil grower, dont know about hydo.......

SCARHOLE said:

Hydrated lime is VERY safe, I just had the same problem last week.
In 2 days after the Lime treatment leafs that were almost yellow were pretty dam green.


Your right Epsom salt would also add MaG, but the hyrdated lime is better.


But Im a soil grower, dont know about hydo.......

Click to expand...

Ya I'm soil as well, Is epsom salt not a soil solution?

Epsom salt is fine in soil or hydro,
But im not sure if Lime is good in hydro.....


Ps speaking of Lime, DONT FOLIAR FEED WITH IT.
IT TURNS YOUR LEAFS WHITE WITH RESIDUE WHEN THE WATER EVAPORATES.
It didnt hurt anything, just ugly....

Ahh gotcha, ok well, I'll do what Snow said first, since it the least invasive. See if it does infact get worse, if not I'll see where i can pick some of that lime up. Grow shop I'm assuming

Yep, garden stores....

SCARHOLE said:

Epsom salt is fine in soil or hydro,
But im not sure if Lime is good in hydro.....


Ps speaking of Lime, DONT FOLIAR FEED WITH IT.
IT TURNS YOUR LEAFS WHITE WITH RESIDUE WHEN THE WATER EVAPORATES.
It didnt hurt anything, just ugly....

Click to expand...

Ya I've never foliar fed these plants at all, never really seen a need for it. Should I be doing this? Kinda pointless I've always thought.

...you know the information and remedy of magnesium deficiency is awesome, but the blotches on the leaves are not or even near uniform to be considered mag def...

...if you kept everything the same or add more nutes the blotches get bigger and at one point it dries up into something rather crispy...

Also, the leaves are curled downwards (telling you there is an excess)


...your plant is experiencing nute burn...



edit (in addition to) if it's humid, then the crispy leaves will get sort of soggy and will start to rot... (this is speaking from experience)

taipanspunk said:

...you know the information and remedy of magnesium deficiency is awesome, but the blotches on the leaves are not or even near uniform to be considered mag def...

...if you kept everything the same or add more nutes the blotches get bigger and at one point it dries up into something rather crispy...

Also, the leaves are curled downwards (telling you there is an excess)


...your plant is experiencing nute burn...



edit (in addition to) if it's humid, then the crispy leaves will get sort of soggy and will start to rot... (this is speaking from experience)

Click to expand...

Well i would agree with you IF there was a slight chance of nute burn. I feed every OTHER watering, that's barely once a week and at half strength the bottle says. If this is nute burn, then this is the fucking touchiest strain ever (Which is white widows btw)