Looking for cob lighting

skoomd said:

It's called luminous efficacy rating (LER). If you knew anything about lighting, you would already know that. And for a vero 29, it's around 326 lumen/w. Bye

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Are you giving up? I can understand if you are, your last post continues to support the lack of understanding you possess.

Slinging PAR said:

Wrong again. Vero 29 C 3000k 80 CRI clock in at 228lm/w, 3.3 ppf/J at just under 26w each. It is publicly available information that you can verify yourself.

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Then provide a link to such information. The Bridgelux Spec sheet only shows efficiency down to 855 mA, and extrapolating from those numbers using their V/I curve and Flux curve results in about 216 lm/w at 425 mA. Where are you getting this 228 lm/w number from?

nfhiggs said:

Then provide a link to such information. The Bridgelux Spec sheet only shows efficiency down to 855 mA, and extrapolating from those numbers using their V/I curve and Flux curve results in about 216 lm/w at 425 mA. Where are you getting this 228 lm/w number from?

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400mA.

Use the product simulator available on the Bridgelux website.

Ignore the datasheet warriors.

Check out true northen lighting they are in Canada and do well priced strip lights.

Or you could go for 320w luminus cxm22 cob light but this requires you building it yourself.

diyled said:

Ignore the datasheet warriors.

Check out true northen lighting they are in Canada and do well priced strip lights.

Or you could go for 320w luminus cxm22 cob light but this requires you building it yourself.

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Oh really. How about the warriors with a PAR meter? Once again, I would take a top tier manufacturer's performance testing numbers over some fly by night operation that will be out of business in a couple of years.

TNL is just some guy working out of his basement slapping components together. If you need it assembled then that maybe the way to go but it is still better to build your own by sourcing the components yourself.

DiY vendors offer nothing special over what the component manufacturers deliver and act as a middleman, another mark up that can be eliminated. I am not even sure why you fight so hard for the bottom end of the market - DiY'ers are looking for the cheapest price possible for the best gear. Cobkits I can understand was initially doing it as a service to supply folks but the rest of you vendors are only in it for the money. It is somewhat funny as there is very little to be made since you are targeting a market that has better options available.

You don't even need a MBA to figure that one out.

To the original poster:

Sadly, it is no surprise this discussion quickly degraded into third grade level name calling.....

Avoid the temptation to get caught up in splitting hairs over minor gains in efficiency, for small spaces.

Chip Green said:

To the original poster:

Sadly, it is no surprise this discussion quickly degraded into third grade level name calling.....

Avoid the temptation to get caught up in splitting hairs over minor gains in efficiency, for small spaces.

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Lol I'm holding out for final word here but I am soaking up the information these guys are giving so it's a win in my books either way..always would like to hear from experienced guys as like I said all this umol talk is way over my head lol can't teach an old stoner new tricks..but he wants the best stuff haha..

Well if you want the best stuff you must be willing to pay for it.

In money
In time
In patience

diyled said:

Ignore the datasheet warriors.

Check out true northen lighting they are in Canada and do well priced strip lights.

Or you could go for 320w luminus cxm22 cob light but this requires you building it yourself.

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I checked them out..I'd have to agree that from what I looked at and the parts available i

Slinging PAR said:

Well if you want the best stuff you must be willing to pay for it.

In money
In time
In patience

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Oh for sure my philosophy is that whatever I pay out will eventually pay for itself ten fold..mind you I'm not going to go out and drop thousands on a light if u catch my drift..just with all the options available (I. E cob vero strips qb ) it's kinda confusing and intimidating ..looking for something that will last the test of time and also something to beat the heat and space used with a hps..(yes I understand hps is the king pin of yeild) Im just about to start flower on my current girls and would like to sw8tch it up for the next one..I'm also considering adding a 4x4 tent for a perpetual grow ( Cuz I smoke more then I make athe the moment lol) so trust all this is not in vain I'm soaking it up and hoping to put the knowledge to the test

If I have to build I have to build that's not the part that intimidates me as I'm pretty handy it's just the parts involved what works with what..Cuz I'm a frybag I'd surely fuck it up royally

diyled said:

Ignore the datasheet warriors.

Check out true northen lighting they are in Canada and do well priced strip lights.

Or you could go for 320w luminus cxm22 cob light but this requires you building it yourself.

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Well I'm prepared to assemble the peices myself it's the shopping list of peices needed for a specific setup (whatever that may be) that I'm looking for...I'm pretty handy..it would probably look like shit but I'm almost certain I can plug a wire into b slot and glue some boards to some metal...lol sorry that's my understanding of the build haha

Kage87 said:

I checked them out..I'd have to agree that from what I looked at and the parts available i

Oh for sure my philosophy is that whatever I pay out will eventually pay for itself ten fold..mind you I'm not going to go out and drop thousands on a light if u catch my drift..just with all the options available (I. E cob vero strips qb ) it's kinda confusing and intimidating ..looking for something that will last the test of time and also something to beat the heat and space used with a hps..(yes I understand hps is the king pin of yeild) Im just about to start flower on my current girls and would like to sw8tch it up for the next one..I'm also considering adding a 4x4 tent for a perpetual grow ( Cuz I smoke more then I make athe the moment lol) so trust all this is not in vain I'm soaking it up and hoping to put the knowledge to the test

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You shouldn't have to drop thousands on a light. Look at it from a simpler perspective.

There are only 4 components for an LED system. The emitter (cob, qb, strip, whatever), the power supply (driver), electrical connections (wire, wagos, solder) and something to mount the emitter to which will also act as your heat sink.

You can either drive the emitters hard or soft. Hard requires less emitters but produces more heat and is less efficient. Also requires bulky heat sinks. Soft (eg. under 35w for a Vero 29 c) requires more emitters but you get more light for the same amount of power and you don't need bulky heat sinks. Running soft also means that the emitters will last almost forever. That is appealing to people who just want to buy once and be done with it.

Yah I hear what your saying but to the argument that was going on I just don't want to decide on something and two weeks later I hear you should have gotten this or that....because that's what's happened ..I was told by a friend to get a viparspectra..so I went all out ordered the 900w to blast my space..now I'm stuck in blur ple he'll lol so just need to move on at this point

Kage87 said:

Yah I hear what your saying but to the argument that was going on I just don't want to decide on something and two weeks later I hear you should have gotten this or that....because that's what's happened ..I was told by a friend to get a viparspectra..so I went all out ordered the 900w to blast my space..now I'm stuck in blur ple he'll lol so just need to move on at this point

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You will get that regardless of what you buy. QB/strips are the flavor of the day now it seems but are really no different than any other panel.

I am not familiar with viparspectra, is that 900w draw or the claimed power? If it is draw and you can dim them, you should try reducing it half power, lower them and see how it works.

Slinging PAR said:

You will get that regardless of what you buy. QB/strips are the flavor of the day now it seems but are really no different than any other panel.

I am not familiar with viparspectra, is that 900w draw or the claimed power? If it is draw and you can dim them, you should try reducing it half power, lower them and see how it works.

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No draws 418 from wall according the the manufacturer...It doesn't have a dimming option just switches on the side for veg and bloom..veg being mostly blue and bloom being all red...Ivery always kept both switches on throughout grow

Slinging PAR said:

You will get that regardless of what you buy. QB/strips are the flavor of the day now it seems but are really no different than any other panel.

I am not familiar with viparspectra, is that 900w draw or the claimed power? If it is draw and you can dim them, you should try reducing it half power, lower them and see how it works.

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It's the amount of red that I'm trying to fix as like I said it's a blur ple light that while it works for flower..seeing side by side with hps I can do better

Kage87 said:

It's the amount of red that I'm trying to fix as like I said it's a blur ple light that while it works for flower..seeing side by side with hps I can do better

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You could just add some standard LED bulbs from big box stores for the remainder of this this grow while you read up and decide on what route to go.

It is a small space, 2.5x2.5, so 6.25ft2 which would be serviced well by 6 Vero 29 C and a meanwell 185. It will be 3 parallel of 2 CoBs in series.

Slinging PAR said:

You could just add some standard LED bulbs from big box stores for the remainder of this this grow while you read up and decide on what route to go.

It is a small space, 2.5x2.5, so 6.25ft2 which would be serviced well by 6 Vero 29 C and a meanwell 185. It will be 3 parallel of 2 CoBs in series.

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8

Lol this is the jargon I'm talking about...so 6 cobs will run off the 185 driver ? But then u say 2 cobs I'm lost haha..also what's with the 3000k 3500k..do they require you to have two separate lights at different temps for veg and bloom?

Kage87 said:

8

Lol this is the jargon I'm talking about...so 6 cobs will run off the 185 driver ? But then u say 2 cobs I'm lost haha..also what's with the 3000k 3500k..do they require you to have two separate lights at different temps for veg and bloom?

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OR should they be used in combination I. E 3 2700 and 3 3500 or some other mix

Kage87 said:

8

Lol this is the jargon I'm talking about...so 6 cobs will run off the 185 driver ? But then u say 2 cobs I'm lost haha..also what's with the 3000k 3500k..do they require you to have two separate lights at different temps for veg and bloom?

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Nah 6 in total. There are three 'strings' of 2 cobs in series. It is better to look it up than me try to explain the wiring to you.

For color temps, that is your personal preference. Lots say 3000k CCT or 3500k CCT for full cycle, veg and flower.