Lets talk about High Brixs Gardening

Supersweetnuggs

Well-Known Member
To be honest, I am by no means the authority when it comes to high brixs Cannabis gardening.
I've done a lot of research on the topic however.

I was hoping to speak with someone who has been growing High brixs Cannabis for many years.

My intention for this feed is to turn it into a place were experienced High brixs Cannabis growers can share there wisdom.

Feel free to share on more than just the topic of High brix
Thanks
 

vro

Well-Known Member
ive used their earth juice molasses in ffof all i did was give it that every 2 days. do they make anything else besides molasses
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member


Plant Tissue pH = Energy
By Bruce Tainio

While laboratory soil and tissue tests are good and necessary tools, we often don’t receive the results for several days, or even up to two weeks in some cases. On a growing crop, that can be too late. With this in mind, we developed a diagnosis of plant health based on liquid pH values of plant tissue sap, which has been used in our biological program at Tainio Technology & Technique since 1989.

Simple to use and 100 percent accurate, a quick plant tissue pH test is an instant snapshot of the state of health of any plant and can tell us the following information:
  1. Enzymatic breakdown of carbohydrates (sugars) for proper growth and vitality of the plant.
  2. Risk potential for insect damage.
  3. Risk potential for foliage disease attack.
  4. Nutritional balance in the growing crop.
  5. Quality of nutrition in the fresh fruit or vegetable crop to be harvested.
  6. Shelf storage potential of fresh fruits and vegetables.
The dictionary defines pH as “a number equal to the logarithm of the reciprocal of hydrogen ion concentration within a solution.” That’s a mouthful, but more simply put, pH represents the percentage of hydrogen ions in a solution. In our case, the solution is the liquid of the plant cell, or the sap.

It is important to know that a change in the pH level of a solution of just one unit equals a tenfold change in the hydrogen ion concentration. If the pH is increased or decreased by two units, the hydrogen ion concentration changes by a hundredfold! Thus we can see why what appears to be only a slight shift in pH can spell disaster for the farmer.

A neutral pH of 7 within the cell fluid means it contains 100 percent saturation of cations other than hydrogen (in other words, the sap contains no free hydrogen ions). At a plant’s ideal cellular fluid pH of 6.4, the saturation of cations other than hydrogen is about 88 percent. At 88 percent saturation – principally of calcium, magnesium, potassium and sodium – the ionization and activity of these elements generates an electrical frequency of between 7.5 and 32 Hertz, which is one of the “healthy” frequency ranges of all living cells.

To decrease cellular pH to 6.0 is to lower the saturation of the above four principle elements to 80 percent, thus lowering the plant’s frequency to a level of lower resistance to bacterial, fungal and viral plant pathogens.

Studies have shown that insects are attracted to a tree or plant by the tree or plant’s frequency. If the saturation of Ca, Mg, K and Na increases to over 88 percent saturation, the frequency from these ions in the cell are increased, and consequently, insects are attracted to the higher-than-normal cell frequency.

The same process occurs in animal and human cells. Hydrogen accumulation in the cell tissue means the saturation of Ca, Mg, K and Na is decreasing, thus causing the frequency to decline. This low frequency leaves the cell an easy target for disease.

Oftentimes we see both insect and disease problems occurring at the same time. This can happen when insects attack due to a high plant tissue pH, and the tissue becomes weakened in the localized areas of attack. Next, localized, rapid energy loss (a drop in pH) occurs at the insect-damaged spots, resulting in tissue disease attack of those areas on the plant.

When a pH shift of a half point (0.5) or more from the ideal 6.4 occurs in the cellular liquid, a laboratory tissue test should be taken to determine exact imbalances and which materials should be applied.

Tissue pH Rule of Thumb
Low pH + Moderate Brix = Calcium Deficiency
Low pH + Low Brix = Potassium Deficiency
6.4 pH + High Brix = Balance
pH & SUGAR

An indirect method of determining the energy levels of a plant is to measure the carbohydrate (sugar) levels in the cell liquid. For this test, a refractometer is used to determine the level of sucrose in the cellular fluid. This reading is referred to as the brix scale.

Within a given species of plant, the crop with the higher refractive index will have a higher sugar content, a higher mineral content, a higher protein content and a greater density. This adds up to sweeter-tasting, more nutritious food with a lower nitrate and water content and better storage characteristics. Such produce will generate more alcohol from fermented sugars and be more resistant to insects, reducing the need for insecticides. Crops with higher sugar contents will also have a lower freezing point and therefore be less prone to frost damage. Soil fertility needs can also be ascertained from this reading.

The brix levels should not be taken as an exact measurement of a plant’s vitality, but rather as a guideline. Stored sugar is not a cellular energy source until its carbon-hydrogen-oxygen molecular links are enzymatically broken apart. If this line breaks or energy release occurs faster than the cell can use it, then that energy is lost into the air. This condition usually occurs when the liquid pH of the cell is below 6.4 and most often indicates low Ca and high K.

The reverse can also occur – if the links between the carbon, hydrogen and oxygen molecules of a sugar are broken too slowly due to low enzyme activity, the plant becomes starved for the energy it needs for growth. This is usually caused by low manganese or zinc, or from high nitrogen/high tissue pH levels, coupled with drought stress.

As a general rule, we can say that when a plant has a low tissue pH and a moderate brix level, there is usually a calcium deficiency involved. On the other hand, a low pH with a low brix level usually indicates a potassium deficiency. The ultimate goal is to achieve a pH of 6.4 with a high brix level.

Plant tissue pH management is a relatively small but invaluable investment of your time and budget, which cannot only help you prevent disease or insect attacks, it can stop them in their tracks even once they have gotten started. This means better yields, bigger profits and most importantly, less need for chemicals.
 

OGEvilgenius

Well-Known Member
it's all about the sugars. I remember prof.marijuana talking about using his brix meter when he flushed. This was the only time someone actually put up a worthwhile argument on flushing. He said he flushed until his brix levels came down.
High brix = better product. Argument against flushing it sounds like. If your weed is burning badly it's because you fed it improperly - which isn't that uncommon using chemical solutions.
 

OGEvilgenius

Well-Known Member
The plant ph stuff is sort of related, but a different topic somewhat. They tend to mesh well though. If your brix levels are high you have a very healthy plant, it's pretty simple. Brix levels for different plants will not be the same.

By this I mean, a high brix reading for a bell pepper would be 12. For a marijuana plant that would be above average but not high. High would be in the 20's. Most growers are below 10. Most produce you find in the grocery store tests poorly. High brix produce will last longer on the shelf, taste better and be a lot less likely to have pesticides and such as they aren't necessary on plants that are very healthy generally speaking. That's a really generalized statement and I wouldn't say it's always true as my own personal experience is limited, but from what I've read - it tends to be true.

I'm just diving into this, I'm sitting in the mid-low teens most of the time. It depends on what I've done recently. This is just for cannabis plants. I bought an industrial grade agriculture refractometer with a brix chart for a little over 100 bucks.
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
High brix = better product. Argument against flushing it sounds like. If your weed is burning badly it's because you fed it improperly - which isn't that uncommon using chemical solutions.
totally DISAGREE, weed burns and tastes bad because it is still full of sugars and starches, it has NOTHING to do with flushing or chemicals.
high brix foods taste better, wonder why? because they are full of sugars/carbs. In weed, if we don't ferment those sugars first, it burns and tastes bad. go burn some sugar and you will see what I mean.
 
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negreenthumb

New Member
totally DISAGREE, weed burns and tastes bad because it is still full of sugars and starches, it has NOTHING to do with flushing or chemicals.
high brix foods taste better, wonder why? because they are full of sugars/carbs. In weed, if we don't ferment those sugars first, it burns and tastes bad. go burn some sugar and you will see what I mean.
I think you both are kind of suggesting the same thing. If it has nothing to do with flushing or synthetics (as you say) then why is it full of starches and sugars to begin with? Improper feeding. I'm not suggesting this is correct, it sounds about right to be, generally speaking, feed properly and the flush matters less. The idea of a single "flush" is almost outdated so I do think there is something to feeding properly promotes better taste while not having to flush for three weeks.

I also think, generally speaking, synthetic growers will over fertilize, and in improper amounts and ratios relative to organic growers. But that might be incorrect. Either way, a good grower is a good grower and will choose what system they want, I think proper brix levels can be achieved in both just fine.

Edit: In the end, it's seemingly everything, nutrient levels and uptake, the conversion of those nutrients, and the proper drying of the converted product (thc terpernes, ect)

Making sure the plant part of the flower doesn't ruin the resin gland is different than making the resin gland smell and taste as good as it can while you grow but a lot of the "cure" is more or less letting the resin release terps and overtake the plant part of the flower as it fades in the chlorophyll smell. That's seemingly both.
 
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chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
I think you both are kind of suggesting the same thing. If it has nothing to do with flushing or synthetics (as you say) then why is it full of starches and sugars to begin with? Improper feeding.
was easier to take from wiki then type out, but read this
Photosynthesis is a process used by plants and other organisms to convert light energy, normally from the sun, into chemical energy that can be later released to fuel the organisms' activities. This chemical energy is stored in carbohydrate molecules, such as sugars, which are synthesized from carbon dioxide and water – hence the name photosynthesis, from the Greekφῶς, phōs, "light", and σύνθεσις, synthesis, "putting together".[1][2][3] In most cases, oxygen is also released as a waste product. Most plants, most algae, and cyanobacteria perform photosynthesis, and such organisms are called photoautotrophs. Photosynthesis maintains atmospheric oxygen levels and supplies all of the organic compounds and most of the energy necessary for life on Earth.[4]
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
you CAN overfeed a plant, then ferment the sugars at harvest,dry and cure properly and it will taste and burn fine. NOT the way I do it, but it can be done.
again, burn some sugar, then burn some salt. you will see it.
 

natro.hydro

Well-Known Member
Chuck, just curious if when you are saying "ferment" are you talking about decarboxylation?

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buckaroo bonzai

Well-Known Member
High brix.....yeah upping the sugar content

-works best when you simulate an exact environment that produces the best cannabis


-like norcal ....perfect climate

-hot hot days....cool cold nights
-rapid fluctuations that induce the plant to produce more trichs and sugar as defense mechanism but also as result of healthy vigorous vital plants


High brix is just measuring the sugar content allthough there are trix to it-
-trix that make the plants healthier heartier...more robust and more vigor vitality....all produce higher brix content

Below some links...vegetable gardeners have been doing it for years and corporate farms have it down to a science

There lots of cannabis pharmers that follow the techniques......increase sugar production and trichs




High Brix Gardening

Very few people even know about high brix gardening, what to speak of understanding the processes to achieve it.

1) Get the soil tested – the Weak Acid test. (Don’t use County Extension Offices as they generally use the Strong Acid test.) Get the microbial levels tested also (called a formazan test.)

2) Have the consultant that did the tests analyze the results and make an expert recommendation of soil amendments. This program may include microbial inoculation. Soil testing and broadcasting of the recommended soil amendments take place once a year, usually in early winter or the off-season.

3) Use liquid nutrient drenches on the soil each month throughout the growing season. Nitrogen is always one of the components because it is water soluble and leaches out of the root zone, and must be replenished. Monthly soil drenches do not have to be customized for your soil, and you don’t need to fertilize separately.

4) Foliar feed on schedule throughout the growing season, usually weekly. (This also does not have to be customized.)

It’s easy if you pick a good consultant as a partner. International Ag Labs and Jon Frank are our consultant and lab of choice – http://www.highbrixgardens.com/nutrient-dense-foods.html. International Ag Labs was started by several people who trained directly under Dr Carey Reams in the 1970s and Jon’s specific focus is on the small-scale farms and gardeners.

For more information please see our articles What is Brix, Organic and High Brix, and Carrot Test for Brix Levels.

High brix gardening means growing foods that are highly nutritious, or nutrient dense. They actually weigh more due to the increased nutrient density, and the mineral and vitamin content is much higher.

Nutrition levels are tested by placing a few drops of juice or sap on the lens of a refractometer. A handheld analogue refractometer is the least expensive type. They are available for around $40 dollars online – get one with Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC) and a carrying case.

Foliar feeding (spraying liquid nutrients on the leaves) followed by testing of brix levels can be used as a way to immediately see what fertilizers and minerals result in increased plant nutrition levels. Of course, the research has already been done – but someone who is very experienced could try to fine-tune things a little for their particular soil or a particular crop.

Foliar feeding doesn’t always increase the nutrient levels in plants directly. It also provides some energy to the plants which then produce more exudates from their roots, like sap. These exudates feed the soil microbial population, which then transform the soil nutrients more rapidly so that they become more available to the plants. It is the same with humans – you can’t get your RDA of iron by chewing on a nail. It has to be chelated, or transformed into a type that your body can assimilate. The microbes transform the minerals into forms that are usable by plants, which transform them into forms usable by … YOU! We also need the microbes in our own digestive systems to assimilate those nutrients.

In summary:

1. Get the soil tested annually (Weak Acid test by a lab specializing in high brix).

2. Use the soil amendments recommended by a high-brix expert, and do not put anything else into the soil.

3. Use soil drenches (monthly) and foliar feeding (weekly) on schedule through the growing season.

4. Periodically measure brix levels and harvest when they are high – which is after a day or two of good sunshine.

We are attempting to establish Kalachandji’s Community Garden as a high brix garden. The first two steps have been done for everyone. It is up to each of you to follow through with step three on your particular plots. We can include your plots in a program of monthly and weekly feedings if you like.

It takes time to nicely balance the soil and learn all the details, so the first year we may not see high brix levels. Jon Frank told me that the first year we could expect to see some quality in the average-to-good range, and the second year we should be seeing some good-to-excellent.

But even average-to-good is better than some of what you can buy in the store.

This is not just another community garden. It is an opportunity for you to possibly grow the most nutritious produce you’ve ever had or ever grown – without having to understand all the details.

bongsmiliebongsmiliebongsmilie

http://www.highbrixgardens.com/home-mobile.html

http://fixmysoil.com


high brix gardening

:peace:---:joint:
 

natro.hydro

Well-Known Member
Thats all i was asking, when you are curing you are technically decarboxylating your weed to make it smoke smoother. Just eabted to make sure i wsnt missing something.

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chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
Thats all i was asking, when you are curing you are technically decarboxylating your weed to make it smoke smoother. Just eabted to make sure i wsnt missing something.

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decarb and fermenting are 2 different things. fermenting turns sugars into alcohol.acids and gases.and requires no heat

The term "decarboxylation" literally means removal of the COOH (carboxyl group) and its replacement with a proton. Heating is required because the reaction is less favorable at low temperatures
 

natro.hydro

Well-Known Member
Thats why i asked, remember fernentation is necessary for alcohol. Guess i got more reading to do.

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