LED Build Questions

RIU has won me over to the LED realm after watching some of MAU's videos and reading for days...

What am looking at building out is 36x3590 3500k @ 700ma, 14x3590 3000k @ 500 ma, and 13x 4000k @ 500ma using 80 degree lenses on the 3500k's and 90 on the 3000k and 4000k's ( as a type of supplemental ). Looking for input on light mixing and would putting the supplemental at 36v @ 500 ma work as I intend which is to create a more distributed spectrum. My thoughts have also been going above 4000k to add more blue.. Also would the 3000k 90CRi work better as a supplemental to the 3500k?

Illustration ( Basically following similar design to what MAU etc have been doing )


Also any suggestions, criticism on the distribution and alignment of the LED's in the illustration would be awesome

I appreciate replies, and I apologize if this has been gone over, however I just want to make sure am on the right path before I make the dive...

I honestly don't think mixing spectrums is needed, unless they are opposite ends of the spectrum so you can turn up or down the warms and/or the cooler temps. Say 2700k and 6000K, each on one dimmer. My first COB lights were 3 temps and I now wish they were all one temp.

nevergoodenuf said:

I honestly don't think mixing spectrums is needed, unless they are opposite ends of the spectrum so you can turn up or down the warms and/or the cooler temps. Say 2700k and 6000K, each on one dimmer. My first COB lights were 3 temps and I now wish they were all one temp.

Click to expand...

For example
13x5700K CD 80 CRI
36x3500K CD 80 CRI
14x2700K CB 80 CRI

break it out into 3 separated groups, 2 groups that can be dimmed and run them all at 700ma? I can see the reasoning for this, however I thought efficiency would be effected below 3k?

What is the spectral power distribution for the 2700 and 5700?

What 3 ranges did you ran at?

I think this light is 3000k,4000k,and 6000k? With a wider Kelvin difference, you will require less dimming to affect changes in overall light temp., keeping the whole light fixture near max. As for the efficiency, I think the 6500Ks efficiency will make up enough of the 3000Ks or 2700Ks efficiency.

Running that soft means the light will be closer to the canopy, which means less mixing of the light. 3 temps means more distance between temps.

nevergoodenuf said:

Running that soft means the light will be closer to the canopy, which means less mixing of the light. 3 temps means more distance between temps.

Click to expand...

I have never run LED previously, how far would I have to keep the lights off the top? at 12" you are correct the light spread wouldn't have any overlap, however at 18" it would be nice spread... That is a 80 degree beam at 18"

I can see this is going to result in a spectrometer, PAR meter, and a bunch of extra leds...

Basically, if I decrease efficiency and up watts to 35~ , am going to be pushing 2200~ watts with that setup, however at 23~ watts it will be 1500~ watts, so there is some trade off there. Optimally at 80 degrees with the spacing I copied from MAU 18 inches provides perfect overlap. Just going by Beam angle and distance...

What I am really trying to say just run 3500K on all of them, you will be happy.