leave problems (pics)

mbudman20

Active Member
so i just potted these babies 3 days ago in some .20-.22.-.20 soil
and my leave keep gettin yellower and whiter and dying has any one had this probem

please any input would be great
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
so i just potted these babies 3 days ago in some .20-.22.-.20 soil
and my leave keep gettin yellower and whiter and dying has any one had this probem

please any input would be great
when u say yr soil is .20-.22-.20 do u mean its 20-22-20 or actually point 20 etc? If the latter then thats a very low soil nutrient content, and they are probably just N hungry, if its 20-22-20 then thats quite high nutrient content and u shouldnt b getting yellowing at that size of plant, especially if you've recently potted up, do u know the ph of the soil u are using?
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
it dosn`t matter what ratio they use 10/20/10 is the same as .10/.20/.10 look at the actual percentage on the back of the bag if it has it. if they have nothing to hide then it will be there.
how long have they been in that soil. it will only usualy hold the nutes for about 3 weeks, then there is nothing left and you need to nute
 

mbudman20

Active Member
when u say yr soil is .20-.22-.20 do u mean its 20-22-20 or actually point 20 etc? If the latter then thats a very low soil nutrient content, and they are probably just N hungry, if its 20-22-20 then thats quite high nutrient content and u shouldnt b getting yellowing at that size of plant, especially if you've recently potted up, do u know the ph of the soil u are using?

the bag says .20-.22-.20 and they have only been in the new soil for about 4 days and im only giving bottle water...i dnt know why but with my cheap ph pen i seem to be getting diffrent reading with this new soil like everytime i test it i get diffrent wack readings but they always low and sumtimes under 5 so idk and they are yellowing those pic on my last post were from yesterday and these are them today.........they are yellowing more and the yellowing seems to be getting dry and died and on a couple leave they r curling under and r dry and crunchy...but take a look at the pics
 

Attachments

bonz

Well-Known Member
how often and how much water are you using. they seem to wet causing ph imballance locking the nutes in soil
 

mbudman20

Active Member
ive only water like 2 times and with less then half a bottle water each as i didnt want to soak them to much like a did in my last soil..

there wet now but it seems tht when there dryer the ph seems to be higher and when there real wet in seems to test lower so idk
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
they have only been in new soil for 3 days and you`ve watered 2 times already. to much. let them dry up almost to the point off wilt. then ph the plain water before feeding, give enough so that you have a bit of run off at the bottom of pots. and repeat when nessecary. when the pots are dry pick it up and note the weight, then water acordingly and check weight angain. now pay attention by the weight and when it is close to the dry weight water them again. should only be about 2 times a week ( roughly)
do you have any nutes? and i`m not sure if the ph pens for mixing nutes can be used to accurately measure the soil. check the batteries. calibrate it again if you can. i just use the cheepo liquid stuff.
 

mbudman20

Active Member
they have only been in new soil for 3 days and you`ve watered 2 times already. to much. let them dry up almost to the point off wilt. then ph the plain water before feeding, give enough so that you have a bit of run off at the bottom of pots. and repeat when nessecary. when the pots are dry pick it up and note the weight, then water acordingly and check weight angain. now pay attention by the weight and when it is close to the dry weight water them again. should only be about 2 times a week ( roughly)
do you have any nutes? and i`m not sure if the ph pens for mixing nutes can be used to accurately measure the soil. check the batteries. calibrate it again if you can. i just use the cheepo liquid stuff.

ok so ill let them dry out till all is dry then water
ive got foxfarm grow big 6-4-4 for veg (what % should i give them when i do feed ive also got sum bone meal and blood meal but not sure how much to give and not sure when
and what do u use to test ur run off ive got sum cheap ph stripes and the cheap ph pen but it doent take any battries or anything just use a lil needle and it just bounces around when i test the soil..
so really theres nothign i can do right now with the yellowing leaves and they r and will progress up the plant as its shown already..

ive got a 2 foot tall fem in flowering and have lost tons on leave and what not but she is still flowering just slow but i dnt want these babies turing out like my first attempt lol
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
those stips i havn`t used but i would buy a cheepo liquid one like i said. those meter ones are not accurate at all nor are the moisture meters.
prper way to test soil ph is to dig half way down the pot asnd scoop out soil, carefull not to disurb roots to much. put soil in water swish around and strain soil out and test. or you could just catch some of the run off out of the bottom of pot and strain and test.
i have some good recipes i`ll look for and post in a bit.
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
here`s a little something on fox farm feeding.

weekly schedual (dirt & hydro IF you change the water weekly) and Phasic feeding for bubblers.
Phasic shedules can be followed for soil-- but do not work as well!

ALL MEASURES ARE PER U.S. GALLON...
Hope this helps!!!


EDITED NOTE FOR PHASIC FEEDINGS!!!
Unless your Nutes specific schedule tells you what to do for sprouting and seedling, you need to cut back on the nutes for that stage BEFORE youconsider it to be "phase one"
Week ONE is NOT as soon as they are sprouted and have leaves! Week one is after they have 4 sets of true leaves---
Start your new seedlings in JUST Ph adjusted water (can use hydrogard & superthrive)
When they get their 3rd set of leaves--add HALF of the amound called for in phase 1 of your phasic schedule--
When they open another 2 sets of leaves (fully!) then add the other 1/2 to bring it to the amount required for "Phase 1" this will greatly reduce the possibility of nute-burn or over feeding...and allows the babies to adjust to the nutes easier.

FOX FARMS SCHEDULE

Product list:

Grow Big--$16
Tiger Bloom--$16
Big Bloom --$16
Open Seseme--$23
ChaChing--$23
Beastie Bloom --$23
And the Optional : Bush Doctor Sledgehammer--$26

There is a 3-pack available for $65 of Open Sesame, Cha Ching and Beastie Bloom IF you can find it!

The last 4 Products are used in small quantities and only at specific times during the grow -- so if you know someone who wanted to go in on the 3-pack with ya, it would be worth it!

Here's the FoxFarms Feeding Schedule for Soil... Hydro is MUCH more complex, unless you use bubblersthen you can follow a Phasic feeding schedule (At end of weekly schedule!)


FOX FARMS FEEDING SCHEDULES


WEEKLY FEEDING- per Gallon
Sprouting and week 1--BigBloom 2TBS
week 2-- 2tsp Grow Big + 2TBS Big Bloom
Week 3--3tsp Grow Big + 2TBS Big Bloom
Week 4--JUST 3 tspGrow Big + 1/4 tsp Open Sesame
Week 5 same as week 4 unless going 12/12--

Week 5- OR--day 1 of 12/12-- 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/2 tsp Open Sesame
Week 6--same as above
Week 7-- 2 Tsp Grow Big + 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/4 tsp Beastie Bloom
Week 8-- 2Tsp Grow Big + 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/2 tsp Beastie Bloom
Week 9-- 2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/4 tsp Cha Ching
week 10-- Same as above
Week 11--2 tsp Tiger Bloom +1TBS Big Bloom + 1/2 tsp Cha Ching


At beginning of week 11--Check Trichomes-- Flush if ready.. otherwise, continue as with week 11 every week until you flush!


Also recomended--but not a nessesity--
Bush Doctor Sledgehammer (prevents lock-out)
use 2 drops per gallon of water between feedings starting in week 4 of 12/12



PHASIC SHEDULE: (per gallon)
(follow this for bubblers, OR you can use these amounts when watering in soilbut is not as good as the weekly schedule for soil!)

New Clones, or when seedlings get 3 sets of leaves- 1tsp Grow Big + 2tsp Big Bloom
Week 3 of veg (unless going 12/12) ADD 1tsp Grow big + 2 tsp Big Bloom
4 Days Before going 12/12- Add ¼ tsp Open Sesame
Day 1 of 12/12 Drain Reservoir & refill. Add 2 tsp Tiger Bloom + 1TBS Big Bloom + ½ tsp Open Sesame
Week 3 of 12/12Add ¼ tsp Beastie Bloom
Week 5 of 12/12Drain and refill reservoir Add 2 tsp Grow Big + 1 tsp Tiger bloom + 1 TBS Big Bloom + ¼ tsp Cha ching
3-5 Days Before harvest-- Drain and refill reservoir add 2 drops Sledgehammer


keep the res filled in between feedings with ph adjusted water--



The reasonFox Farms doesn't list nutes for weeks 2 & 4 is that it ASSUMES your res won't go down, so you won't NEED any additional nutes (if your res stays full- great!)..
but if the plants are pretty big, or the room is warm/dry-- they can need refilling up to 3-4x a week!!! The chart doesn't take that into account--
Remember-- feed AT MOST 1x each week-- only water in-between!
Use additional nutes from week one at 1/2 rate until in flower (between recomended feeds) then in flower-- for additional feeds, use the nutes from the 1st week of flower at 1/2 rate in between...again--NEVER feed more than 1x a week!

Bubblers MAY use the weekly Schedules-- BUT ONLY if you use an ec/ppm meter to keep the levels where they should be....
an ec around 1.2-1.5 in veg.. then 1.5 -1.7 in flower unlitt the last 2-3 weeks... then can go as high as 2.0. Watch yor plants! they'll tell you if you are over/under feeding!

Source : Smokin Moose

i`ll look for some info on the blood and bone meals for ya also
 

mbudman20

Active Member
those stips i havn`t used but i would buy a cheepo liquid one like i said. those meter ones are not accurate at all nor are the moisture meters.
prper way to test soil ph is to dig half way down the pot asnd scoop out soil, carefull not to disurb roots to much. put soil in water swish around and strain soil out and test. or you could just catch some of the run off out of the bottom of pot and strain and test.
i have some good recipes i`ll look for and post in a bit.

what is the liquid one ur talking about ....
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
Notes on some commonly used organic ferts:

Blood Meal : 13 - 0 - 0

Blood meal has one of the highest concentrations of Nitrogen of any organic fertilizer, and is consequently a popular choice for the vegetative growth period. In its dry and slow-acting form, it can be mixed in with the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon of soil mix. However, many growers prefer to use it as a soluble fertilizer as it acts very quickly without much danger of burning - much like the action of a chemical fertilizer, but without the risks.
To make blood meal tea, soak 1 tablespoon of blood meal in a gallon of water for 5 to 7 days. The longer you wait, the higher concentration of N the tea will have. Shake well, then strain out the solids and water your plants with the tea.
Bone Meal : 1 - 11 - 0
Bone meal is high in Phosphorus, and is most suitable for the flowering period. However, as it is a slow-release fertilizer, it is fine to add to the soil earlier in the grow period. (Perhaps the best course of action is to add it to the mix you perform your final transplant into.) One caution about bone meal, especially in Europe, is that many growers will not use it for fear of spreading Mad Cow Disease. Although this has not been proven, it is wise to bear this in mind.

Fish Emulsion : 5 - 1 - 1
Fish emulsion is a liquid solution made from decomposed fish and sometimes other ingredients. It is an exceedingly gentle fertilizer and is thought by many growers to be the best "first fert" to use on young plants. Its NPK ratio is also ideal for vegetative growth. It is usually mixed with water at a rate of 1 to 3 tablespoons per gallon.

Worm castings : 0.5 - 0.5- 0.3
Also known as worm compost or good ol' worm sh*t, this may be the single best all-purpose fertilizer. Although the nutrient levels are relatively low, worm castings somehow have amazing effects on plant vigor, and anyone who has used them can testify to their effectiveness. They are very gentle on plants, making them ideal for seedlings, and also contain micronutrients. Worm castings can be used as part of the soil mix (no more than 15% total volume is suggested) or can be made into tea (1 part WC to 5 parts water) and applied as watering solution or as a foliar fertilizer.

Kelp meal: 1 - 0.5 - 2.5
Kelp meal provides over 60 trace elements, plus growth promoting hormones and enzymes. As such, it is often used to ensure the plant is properly supplied with micronutrients. Can be used as part of the soil mix (1-2 tablespoons/gallon) or brewed into tea at the same rate.
 

mbudman20

Active Member
wow..thanks for all the info bonz

ok so just to ask you
what would u do if ur girls were looking like the girls in the pics...??????
as of now i dnt think i can do anything as there still wet and camt do much till next watering...should i go mix sum blood meal up and let it sit for a couple day for the next wateering or what???????

ive already messd up my first baby tryin to feed her nutes and really wanna learn this so i dnt do it again to these babies...
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
do youi have stones or something for drainage on those pots and what size are they
 

mbudman20

Active Member
no stones i wanted to use stone/rocks but at the time of repotting i did'nt have any.. i just mix soil-perlite-vercuilate (dnt know how to spell lol) but ya i was hopeing this would help or atleast be better then my last soil which was just soil....

pots ( 2)6" (1)8"
 
Top