Lazy Man's Way to Cleaner Hydroponic Cannabis

Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Well-Known Member
jronnn said:
ahhh okay i get what youre saying now makes sense but its funny you say that, in the winter when my res temps were like 60-65 it took like a month and a half for my plant to reach a foot but i also hear the higher temp can result in low dissolved oxygen and obviously pythium but right now my temps are like 74-80 (depending on temps outside) and theyre growing more than ever
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That swamp cooler, evaporation going on is great :)

jronnn said:
you both seem knowledgeable so this question is for both of you...I have what im 99% sure is cyanobacteria that comes back after a week or 2 of res/tray cleaning/sterilizing... no matter what temp or how perfect everthing else is, it always comes back... i was using 29% h2o2 @5ml/gal every 3 days but even then itd still be back after 2 weeks. right now i been trying pondzyme with hydroguard for a week and im starting to see a thin film of it.. my question is do you guys reccomend anything for this? have either have you had this problem? its a clearish snotty/gelatin like substance that floats around or sticks to the walls. ive looked into the heisenberg tea and i might order the materials tonight but is there anything else you guys would reccomend? i have a 2x4 flood tray with a 23 gal res, plants in hydroton
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Dealt with this and it's disgustingly nasty.
The tap water at one location was an infected well. Simply rinsing something in the local water and using it in the res would produce snot in 3 days.

R/O machine, all the way. Whatever methods you use to get rid of it, use r/o water for it or boiled tap water. Easiest way is to start with all new equipment. Cheapest way is to use biologics or antibiotics to get rid of it on EVERY surface in the garden which will touch nutrient solution.

Clean bottles, buckets, hoses, pumps, airlines, stones, the more difficult to clean, the more closely you should look at simply replacing it. It took me a while to understand what was going on and even longer to fix it and learn to work around it. I don't envy your position.
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
jronnn said:
ahhh okay i get what youre saying now makes sense but its funny you say that, in the winter when my res temps were like 60-65 it took like a month and a half for my plant to reach a foot but i also hear the higher temp can result in low dissolved oxygen and obviously pythium but right now my temps are like 74-80 (depending on temps outside) and theyre growing more than ever





you both seem knowledgeable so this question is for both of you...I have what im 99% sure is cyanobacteria that comes back after a week or 2 of res/tray cleaning/sterilizing... no matter what temp or how perfect everthing else is, it always comes back... i was using 29% h2o2 @5ml/gal every 3 days but even then itd still be back after 2 weeks. right now i been trying pondzyme with hydroguard for a week and im starting to see a thin film of it.. my question is do you guys reccomend anything for this? have either have you had this problem? its a clearish snotty/gelatin like substance that floats around or sticks to the walls. ive looked into the heisenberg tea and i might order the materials tonight but is there anything else you guys would reccomend? i have a 2x4 flood tray with a 23 gal res, plants in hydroton
Click to expand...


rootzone temp and root temp are 2 different thing. for your issue ,if it keep coming back it mean u have something wrong like light leaks,high temp, stagnant water,organic additive.

hydroguard should fix your issue, drop the pondzyme until you have white fuzzy roots then you can start adding some to your rez, if it come back again, stop using pondzyme.
 
J

jronnn

Well-Known Member
Douglas.Curtis said:
That swamp cooler, evaporation going on is great :)


Dealt with this and it's disgustingly nasty.
The tap water at one location was an infected well. Simply rinsing something in the local water and using it in the res would produce snot in 3 days.

R/O machine, all the way. Whatever methods you use to get rid of it, use r/o water for it or boiled tap water. Easiest way is to start with all new equipment. Cheapest way is to use biologics or antibiotics to get rid of it on EVERY surface in the garden which will touch nutrient solution.

Clean bottles, buckets, hoses, pumps, airlines, stones, the more difficult to clean, the more closely you should look at simply replacing it. It took me a while to understand what was going on and even longer to fix it and learn to work around it. I don't envy your position.
Click to expand...
yeah i was thinking about replacing all hoses, airlines and stones are each harvest anyway but even with r.o it would come back (probably because the bacteria was still there from using tap water before) i only have 1 tray right now but want to get rid of it before i get any more so maybe i should try a antibiotic treatment on this tray and stick to r.o only moving forward im just scared to use the antibiotic and it not work properly and i get a bunch of immune super bacteria floating in my res
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
changing rez every 2month definetely not result in a ''cleaner'' product. element are uptake at differente rate, micro nutrients ALWAYS accumulate , if you top your rez with nutrient, ur always adding more micro resulting in increased build up. theres like 0 reason to not dump every 2 week at leastt
 
J

jronnn

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
should check your sources: chlorine is a tertiary nutrient of cannabis and IS used by the plant.

look at the ingredient list for dynagro foliage pro: it's in there.
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what nute line do you use, dynagro? i heard its ph is a lot more unstable than the maxi series... do you use the pool shock or the zone? that stuff protects you from cyanobacteria? h2o2 couldnt keep cyano away so i need another weapon
 
J

jronnn

Well-Known Member
weedemart said:
rootzone temp and root temp are 2 different thing. for your issue ,if it keep coming back it mean u have something wrong like light leaks,high temp, stagnant water,organic additive.

hydroguard should fix your issue, drop the pondzyme until you have white fuzzy roots then you can start adding some to your rez, if it come back again, stop using pondzyme.
Click to expand...
i was thinking that... my tray isnt on an angle, it stays flat...and theres some water that stays stagnant in the drain hose between floods, maybe this is the cause of my problems.... you think the hydroguard should work to get rid of the cyano?
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
jronnn said:
i was thinking that... my tray isnt on an angle, it stays flat...and theres some water that stays stagnant in the drain hose between floods, maybe this is the cause of my problems.... you think the hydroguard should work to get rid of the cyano?
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yep puddle of water is common issue in flood table but since you are probly flooding 4-5 time+ by days i dont think its your issue.

hydroguard should control the disease but it wont cure. its used as a preventive. theres no cure for slime because its not really a disease but the result of a poor environment.
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
Douglas.Curtis said:
That swamp cooler, evaporation going on is great :)


Dealt with this and it's disgustingly nasty.
The tap water at one location was an infected well. Simply rinsing something in the local water and using it in the res would produce snot in 3 days.

R/O machine, all the way. Whatever methods you use to get rid of it, use r/o water for it or boiled tap water. Easiest way is to start with all new equipment. Cheapest way is to use biologics or antibiotics to get rid of it on EVERY surface in the garden which will touch nutrient solution.

Clean bottles, buckets, hoses, pumps, airlines, stones, the more difficult to clean, the more closely you should look at simply replacing it. It took me a while to understand what was going on and even longer to fix it and learn to work around it. I don't envy your position.
Click to expand...
ro dont sterilize water... only way to sterilize tap is chlorine or UV
 
Douglas.Curtis

Douglas.Curtis

Well-Known Member
weedemart said:
changing rez every 2month definetely not result in a ''cleaner'' product. element are uptake at differente rate, micro nutrients ALWAYS accumulate , if you top your rez with nutrient, ur always adding more micro resulting in increased build up. theres like 0 reason to not dump every 2 week at leastt
Click to expand...
I'll pit my 3 month flower against your 2 week changout, any day. I live in Fairplay and my next harvest will be in about 3 months. What's more, in time, I'll be able to pay for lab tests as well.

I have zero hesitation in stating my cannabis will come out cleaner than anything the methods you're advocating will produce. Zero. :)
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
Douglas.Curtis said:
I'll pit my 3 month flower against your 2 week changout, any day. I live in Fairplay and my next harvest will be in about 3 months. What's more, in time, I'll be able to pay for lab tests as well.

I have zero hesitation in stating my cannabis will come out cleaner than anything the methods you're advocating will produce. Zero. :)
Click to expand...
wtv im not trying to change your methods, i just tell you the fact.
Douglas.Curtis said:
r/o removes the cyano, which is much larger than the particle size the r/o filter allows through. It's fine.
Click to expand...
if ro would be a safe method to sterilize ,cities would save a lot on chemical........ only way with ro is uv or chlorine as I stated
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
jronnn said:
what nute line do you use, dynagro? i heard its ph is a lot more unstable than the maxi series... do you use the pool shock or the zone? that stuff protects you from cyanobacteria? h2o2 couldnt keep cyano away so i need another weapon
Click to expand...
dg foliage pro for seedlings, then flora duo for rest of veg and all bloom

i've used both zone and pool shock. zone was a bit easier to use/measure but will break down over time.

right now, i use 0.30 grams of shock per 10 gallons RO. just need an accurate scale to measure which are fairly cheap anyway. so a 1 pound bag will last 5 years maybe?? lol.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Douglas.Curtis said:
Not in the levels needed for sterilization. At those levels it is excess and a contaminant or worse.
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care to quote a source? how do you even know what levels i'm running?

since you don't, i run 4ppm which is within the safe levels for cannabis. and it's a sterile environment too.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
weedemart said:
wtv im not trying to change your methods, i just tell you the fact.


if ro would be a safe method to sterilize ,cities would save a lot on chemical........ only way with ro is uv or chlorine as I stated
Click to expand...
most muni water uses chloramine instead of chlorine but you are correct. and to replace RO membranes on a huge plant would be ungodly expensive to boot.
 
J

jronnn

Well-Known Member
weedemart said:
yep puddle of water is common issue in flood table but since you are probly flooding 4-5 time+ by days i dont think its your issue.

hydroguard should control the disease but it wont cure. its used as a preventive. theres no cure for slime because its not really a disease but the result of a poor environment.
Click to expand...
well i flood 4 times a day but the stagnant water becomes really warm just sitting there but i just but the tray on a tilt... so maybe i should just run a full antibiotic cycle (or use heisenberg tee for like 2 weeks) then get back to using hydroguard plus a res change every week for flower and every 2 weeks in veg... i hope that will fix it
rkymtnman said:
dg foliage pro for seedlings, then flora duo for rest of veg and all bloom

i've used both zone and pool shock. zone was a bit easier to use/measure but will break down over time.

right now, i use 0.30 grams of shock per 10 gallons RO. just need an accurate scale to measure which are fairly cheap anyway. so a 1 pound bag will last 5 years maybe?? lol.
Click to expand...
yeah i already have one that can weigh that and i actually already have pool shock and r.o filter at my house... so you only add more shock on res changes? the only thing that sucks is i cant use hydroguard with it, i wonder if there are any benefits with pool shock besides just pure sterilization
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
I have a great respect for hydro guard after it saved my grow last season, nothing stopped the rot, and cured it, except hydroguard, bleach, shock and H2O2 never touched it. Also
 
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