Okay, that doesn't say anything about there not being a possible way to speed things up properly with no harm.
Taffy ... just because you lack knowledge and experience does not mean that what has been known for a very long time, and that has been researched and found to be true, is not true and is bendable to your fantasies.
First off, regardless of your claims to the contrary, any quick drying method will not allow the time or create the proper conditions for chlorophyll, carbohydrates, proteins and other complex elements to break down into simpler less complex elements. Once the process has stopped due to drying too quickly it has stopped for good, there is no restarting it, and that means harsher less flavorful bud that does not burn as well.
The process of THCA transforming into THC is a long slow process, sometimes never fully achieved even with an extremely long cure. Heat, as in the form of when smoked will cause some decarboxylization, the process of THCA becoming THC, but not 100% in the case of uncured cannabis, so 100% total potency of freshly dried uncured cannabis that is smoked is virtually impossible.
During the curing process terpenoids also change and that not only brings out more aroma and increased flavor but some terpenoids also work in conjunction with CBD to give more of a body stone, so that would be something important to the couch-lock overs of the world.
Long slow curing also creates a much better much more complete burning of the cannabis. Some may have noticed when smoking uncured pot that they can end up with an almost non-burnable slightly resinous black substance that is not ash-like and it not tar in the bottom of their bowl, but when smoking fully cured cannabis they end up with a light actual ash. Others may have noticed that uncured pot sometimes just won't stay lit in a joint, though they often times mistake it for a case of not being fully dry. It is that slightly resinous black substance that won't burn unless you practically hold a blowtorch to it being created and stopping the burning process from working it's way down a joint.
Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the hay or fresh cut lawn taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
The fast dry-method produces a harsher smoke than slow drying, but it is often the most convenient method to use. Normally the plants are suspended in the same way as for slow drying, but the temperature in the drying area is increased to between 90 and 115 degrees, often by means of electric or gas heater, but there are other methods like food dehydrators or hanging plants to dry over radiators or stream pipes or heat duct vents or on trays or screens over light fixtures etc. Marijuana that is fast-dried retains its original green color and hay or fresh mowed lawn taste.
What you fail to understand Taffy is that curing is only the second, or final, step in the actual drying process. The initial long slow drying process removes most moisture and allows the much needed chemical breakdown and transformation processes to begin. The crop still retains a small degree of moisture when jarred for curing and that moisture is drawn out at a very slow rate, but that small amount of remaining moisture slowly being drawn out is critical to the continuation of the chemical breakdown and transformation of various elements and cannabinoids. A quick/fast dry, regardless of how it is performed, halts the chemical breakdown and the transformation of various elements and cannabinoids.
Here is part of an article from Michigan Medical Marijuana. I only posted part of it because it goes into detail about various methods of curing and since the topic is lack of potency and does curing matter or help it was superfluous information.
Drying and curing cannabis properly will yield the most THC-potent smoke. When dried and cured improperly, potency can diminish substantially. The level of THC in a plant is determined by its genetics. Proper drying and curing will keep the THC level as high as genetically possible. It does not increase potency.
A little background on what happens inside and outside the harvested drying plant will help you understand why proper drying and curing are so important to good quality dope. Drying evaporates most of the 70-75 percent water content in fresh marijuana. Drying also converts THC from its non-psychoactive crude acidic form to its psychoactive pH-neutral form. Once dry, THC-potent marijuana can be smoked and you will get high. Every THC molecule must shed their moisture content before they are fully psychoactive.
In other words fresh green marijuana will not be very potent.
When you cut a plant or plant part and hang it to dry, the transport of fluids within the plant continues, but at a slower rate. Stomata, small openings on leaf undersides, close soon after harvest and drying is slowed since little water vapor escapes. The natural plant processes slowly come to an end as the plant dries. The outer cells are the first to dry, but fluid still moves from internal cells to supply moisture to the dry outer cells. When this process occurs properly, the plant dries evenly throughout. Removing leaves and large stems upon harvest speeds drying, however, moisture content within the “dried” buds, leaves and stems is most often uneven.
Quick drying also traps chlorophylls and other pigments, starch and nitrates within plant tissue, making it taste “green” burn unevenly and taste bad.
Taste and aroma improve when these pigments break down.
Slow even drying – where the humidity is similar inside and outside the foliage – allows enough time for the pigments to degrade. Hanging entire plants to dry allows this process to occur over time, about 3-4 weeks at 50-60 percent relative humidity and a temperature range of 60-70 degrees F. (15-21 degrees C.) The large outer leaves also form a protective sheath around buds. This protective foliage shields resin glands on buds from rupture and bruising. Removing large leaves and stems upon harvest saves time. This is what most growers do, because fresh supple leaves are easier to work with than dry leaves. When you are looking a manicuring 5 kilos, you make it as easy as possible! However, this process often causes uneven drying and keeps moisture inside the foliage.
This is why it is important to “cure” the “dry” marijuana.Curing lets the plants continue to dry slowly. The first week of curing affects potency in that it removes moisture within the bud evenly, so that virtually all the THC is psychoactive.
Curing also allows buds to dry enough so that mold does not grow when it is stored. A well-cured bud will also burn with an even glow.Note: Rough handling and friction from fondling hands will bruise and knock off resin glands. Even with proper drying and curing, brutal handling of harvested marijuana will diminish THC content.
