Lack of clone offshoots

I’ve been have problems lately getting my mothers to grow proper clones to take off. Should I top more, give more red spectrum light?

topping or lst 'ing it should help. Are you thinking red spectrum to make it stretch? Revegging plants throw out a ton of branches too, might be an option.

How long your mothers been mothers for ? Are you in pots? I have to start new mother plants every six months or so if i want them to stay productive and fresh but to be honest they dont really get treated right, normallly living off of the left over feed from the cuttings i take off her that are in flower

KryptoBud said:

topping or lst 'ing it should help. Are you thinking red spectrum to make it stretch? Revegging plants throw out a ton of branches too, might be an option.

Click to expand...

Honestly Im not sure I inherited these from a family members but yea maybe 4-5 months old. In soil,3 gallon pots. I started some new clone moms in coco. Did a little bending but forgot to top and they are already getting some size on them. How far into flower are you still taking cuttings..never thought a revegging a possible option

I never understood this wait and taking clones off from blooming plants.

#1: The clone is as old as the plant, clone, to clone to clone....
#2: Once in bloom. Your taking clones from a sexually mature plant.... Ever wonder why some clones start throwing calyx's and pistil's in veg?

I simply take clones from the offal from lolly-popping as they get up potted for that last 8-10 days before being put to bloom.

Clones taking too long to root? Yellowing out and not rooting? Getting end rot on the cut?


Common cloning issues that you all should know about.

#1:Clones that are taken lower on the plant, root faster! The more N content in a cutting. The longer it will take to root. N is lower as you move down the plant. The highest at the top.

#2:Too much light being applied to the cloning area. Strong lighting for clones is going to increase the rooting time and increase the amount of nutrients the plant is putting into growing, and not putting into rooting. Lower the light to where the plant can live but not exactly thrive..This is why you cut the front half of leaves off your cutting....It will root faster. I have clones that root from simply being left in water and have only ambient light. Takes about 10-14 days or a little more but most root. Just an example....Use your cloner...

#3:CLEAN everything before each use. Use fresh blades to take cuttings. If your clone stem is swelling but, you have some rot on the end. Cut it off with a clean blade and continue.

#4: Do not over heat the clones. I use a seedling mat. Thing is I don't trust that mat to stay where I want it, temperature wise. Use a doubled over towel under the clone tray or breakdown and buy a thermo switch to actually control the heat to where you want it.

These are common fix's to common problems.....Hope I covered something that can help...

Dr. Who said:

I never understood this wait and taking clones off from blooming plants.

#1: The clone is as old as the plant, clone, to clone to clone....
#2: Once in bloom. Your taking clones from a sexually mature plant.... Ever wonder why some clones start throwing calyx's and pistil's in veg?

I simply take clones from the offal from lolly-popping as they get up potted for that last 8-10 days before being put to bloom.

Clones taking too long to root? Yellowing out and not rooting? Getting end rot on the cut?


Common cloning issues that you all should know about.

#1:Clones that are taken lower on the plant, root faster! The more N content in a cutting. The longer it will take to root. N is lower as you move down the plant. The highest at the top.

#2:Too much light being applied to the cloning area. Strong lighting for clones is going to increase the rooting time and increase the amount of nutrients the plant is putting into growing, and not putting into rooting. Lower the light to where the plant can live but not exactly thrive..This is why you cut the front half of leaves off your cutting....It will root faster. I have clones that root from simply being left in water and have only ambient light. Takes about 10-14 days or a little more but most root. Just an example....Use your cloner...

#3:CLEAN everything before each use. Use fresh blades to take cuttings. If your clone stem is swelling but, you have some rot on the end. Cut it off with a clean blade and continue.

#4: Do not over heat the clones. I use a seedling mat. Thing is I don't trust that mat to stay where I want it, temperature wise. Use a doubled over towel under the clone tray or breakdown and buy a thermo switch to actually control the heat to where you want it.

These are common fix's to common problems.....Hope I covered something that can help...

Click to expand...

Yeah taking cuttings when lollypopping and repotting then waiting 8 to ten days before flipping is exactly what i normally do too, and everything else you stated i completely agree with.
Its funny how i bang my clones into a clone tray under 600w cfl which is max 3 foot off the top of the dome never clean my stanly blade or the sideboard never use heat mat as like you said cant trust them, and still i get roots sometimes after as little as 7 days, never get rot or mold apart from one time i decided to buy some clone spay feed which was a big mistake ended up with gooey brown stems so its always plain water sometimes straight out of tap misted over twice a day. Basically i break all the rules and somehow it works for me.
I think the trick is keeping them damp not wet

Dr. Who said:

I never understood this wait and taking clones off from blooming plants.

#1: The clone is as old as the plant, clone, to clone to clone....
#2: Once in bloom. Your taking clones from a sexually mature plant.... Ever wonder why some clones start throwing calyx's and pistil's in veg?

I simply take clones from the offal from lolly-popping as they get up potted for that last 8-10 days before being put to bloom.

Clones taking too long to root? Yellowing out and not rooting? Getting end rot on the cut?


Common cloning issues that you all should know about.

#1:Clones that are taken lower on the plant, root faster! The more N content in a cutting. The longer it will take to root. N is lower as you move down the plant. The highest at the top.

#2:Too much light being applied to the cloning area. Strong lighting for clones is going to increase the rooting time and increase the amount of nutrients the plant is putting into growing, and not putting into rooting. Lower the light to where the plant can live but not exactly thrive..This is why you cut the front half of leaves off your cutting....It will root faster. I have clones that root from simply being left in water and have only ambient light. Takes about 10-14 days or a little more but most root. Just an example....Use your cloner...

#3:CLEAN everything before each use. Use fresh blades to take cuttings. If your clone stem is swelling but, you have some rot on the end. Cut it off with a clean blade and continue.

#4: Do not over heat the clones. I use a seedling mat. Thing is I don't trust that mat to stay where I want it, temperature wise. Use a doubled over towel under the clone tray or breakdown and buy a thermo switch to actually control the heat to where you want it.

These are common fix's to common problems.....Hope I covered something that can help...

Click to expand...

I do sog with ebb and flow tables. I need atleast 50-100 clones at any given time to start flower. I have to have dedicated mothers to pull clones from to keep my perpetual grow going. Didn’t get much help from this post

replace your mothers every 6 months...you can keep one going longer, but plants have a natural life cycle. you can get around it, but their natural cycle is to spend the first 3 or 4 months of their lives in vegetative growth, then to flower and die...
topping the plant will help with new growth, for a while...repotting will help, for a while....the best thing to do is to just replace them about twice a year...pick some good clones to be your new mothers, then take the old mother and flower it out, give it a good finish

budman410 said:

I do sog with ebb and flow tables. I need atleast 50-100 clones at any given time to start flower. I have to have dedicated mothers to pull clones from to keep my perpetual grow going. Didn’t get much help from this post

Click to expand...

So what! Others did!

I used to SOG.. Done some damn big ones... We simply used bulk seeds.....
Simple and easy with most breeders helping with reduced rates and being ready with forward notice...

BUT

Going from clones was also done. When I did some smaller count runs in the 30's maybe....Over that. Mom's take up too much space and work...

Dr. Who said:

So what! Others did!

I used to SOG.. Done some damn big ones... We simply used bulk seeds.....
Simple and easy with most breeders helping with reduced rates and being ready with forward notice...

BUT

Going from clones was also done. When I did some smaller count runs in the 30's maybe....Over that. Mom's take up too much space and work...

Click to expand...

Whoa buddy wasn’t trying to get testy. I didn’t explain the amount I needed. With bulk seeds wouldn’t the canopy be harder to maintain given the different growth rates and ways from different seeds? Very interesting option never heard of being used for sog. I could always make my own seeds. The most risky yet fastest way I thought of growth other then a shit ton of training is putting them on a table. Right now I chose coco for faster growth.

budman410 said:

Whoa buddy wasn’t trying to get testy. I didn’t explain the amount I needed. With bulk seeds wouldn’t the canopy be harder to maintain given the different growth rates and ways from different seeds? Very interesting option never heard of being used for sog. I could always make my own seeds. The most risky yet fastest way I thought of growth other then a shit ton of training is putting them on a table. Right now I chose coco for faster growth.

Click to expand...

It was the "I didn't get much help from this post." kinda ticked me off....

Yeah we used Fem's (S1's) from breeders to do the mass work..... At one point we had ties to several. It was fun and actually started as a "Can we really pull this off?" Kinda thing. Debate and planning. Then the facility set up (completely self contained) came after one of the partners made arrangements with a breeder to supply the bulk Fem'ed seeds.. He did a special run with one big plant to produce enough to run - plus a 15% over run to cover any loss or other issue in the mass hatch...

The pop went well, as we didn't really know what to expect on that scale... uniformity was rather good and only some minor differing that was sorted out at planting. Taller seedlings were planted deeper for height uniformity. This was unknown area's for us, at this point. Would these idea's of matching plant height really work, or would we still get differing growth rates from them per seedling height as an indicator of specific plant growth rates..

It actually worked out pretty well...Not a lot of difference, at least not really enough to matter in the end. I must note that by doing bulk runs of S1 seeds. You did learn that there is minor pheno spreads in S1 seeds. I thought that most of that was a structural difference...

Sadly, the # of people involved. Turned out to be the downfall of the project down the road. Loose lips, sunk the ship. Word got around (No body tried any theft or what not) and eventually the coppers raided the place. Cut out much of the equipment and such but, nobody was around, so nobody got busted. Anyway, nuff said...... Rumor is it's still there, minus the equipment they took. I sure ain't going back to look!

We did run to about 8-10 inch's tall and flip.....Later runs were all flipped at 6-8 inch's. Less trimming work.. It's a bitch cleaning up a shit ton of plants for bloom.

This were I began my SOG experiments....Wish I could run SOG now.....