Skybound420
Well-Known Member
Aside from the spike in macros, Jack's 321 don't look that bad now, lol.
Jacks (JR Peters) nutrients
- Thread starter Growerguy420
- Start date
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
I have listed 2 of the same GH mixes. The first is full strength mid bloom, the second is the same numbers, each multiplied by 0.7 for dilution purposes.
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
What is your opinion of the 3,2,1 N, Ca and Mg? Like the elevated levels and your knowledge of things? I've used GH @ 0.7 for years with only minor issues, mostly deficient from what I remember, so I know the girls can drink a strong drink if tasked to.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
no way your plants had def while feeding those insanely high numbers
more likely lock out
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
Are you of the opinion that most/all nutrient brands are in lockout dosages? I reduced GH to 70% strength, but I know growers us AN as is, same with Botanicare, and I presume [email protected] to be in the same ranges as the others. Either way, I've kept my schedules within the ranges you shared, but I believe I have a minor, but progressing Mg deficiency. I adjusted my feed mid week from 50ppm to about 60-65ppm with hopes of preventing further damage.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
show me a pic of the magnesium def
only reason youd have mg def above 50ppm is if your K or calcium was real high creating lockout or if the ph was way out
im4satori
Well-Known Member
yes, most of the instructions are based on the higher levels of nutritional requirements needed for garden vegetables and replicated with some version of the work done by Hoagland, stiener, arnon and maybe two more
mj has much lower nutritional requirements than say a tomato plant
an example of this would be
when was the last time you seen a wild growing tomato plant.... but MJ has the ability to flourish on its own in the wild in part to its lower nutritional requirements
you might say, its more efficient
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
I've never seen a wild tomato, corn or cows (cattle) but I assume if traced back far enough, that's where all of these things originate. Mankind just domesticated them. Here are 5 pics of my issue. It's not severe by any measure, just an annoyance more than anything. All of my feed schedules have been well within the ranges of your numbers, only recently have I began to add GH Micro to get my micros up some. I put an added 0.5g/Gal of epsom in the res for this plant a few days ago. I have been having some ph issues lately with the dries. When I mix up a new res, about 30 hours later the ph spikes up and I have to spend about the next 3 days beating it back to around 6.0-6.2. I'll get citric and phosphoric acids in time, but for now I must use PH down when needed.
I can 2nd this I've been running 321 for years at full strength from clones to 10-14 days before harvest lockout is the only problem I've had a half strength dose of nutes with some recharge always fixes it I do the recharge every 2 weeks now so I don't run I to problems
buyyouabeer
Well-Known Member
Not sure about that Mg problem, looks more like windburn to me.
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
That would make sense if directly in front of the fan, but these pics are from top and bottom.
Edit - RH is down to ~50%. We had a wicked humid summer, but that's gone. still, this plant (original from seed) was vegged in high humidity.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
ya
if you like pushing the high EC you can offset it by flushing periodically
but what im hearing is youd be better off with a lower EC and avoid the need to flush frequently
321 at full strength is a little hot imho
I think the stronger EC would be fine in veg but im betting something around 20 to 25% less in bloom would make you happy
my guess is your around EC 1.7+/-... drop it down to 1.4
im4satori
Well-Known Member
those are not from mg def
look at the pics, you see the tips of the fans leaves starting to curl downward
that's over fertilization
im sorry I have a very short memory..remind me again what your medium is before I talk on the ph swing
buyyouabeer
Well-Known Member
Not Mg def. "Leaves turning yellow, or even white, with the veins remaining dark green is the best indicator of Magnesium deficiency". I have had this problem and it is not what you are experiencing.
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
The EC ironically stays put throughout the week. Well maybe slightly downward, but negligibly at best. It's just the PH that spikes. When I first mix, I'm adding recommended dose of GH silica and also the fulvic/humic/kelp mix also has an upward pull, but I'm assuming after about a day, the base starts to take effect and it pulls the PH upwards near neutral (6.6-6.9).
Skybound420
Well-Known Member
after that day(ish), a strong dose of PH down (1-1.5ml/Gal) gets it down below 6.0, then I just observe and correct as needed. Maybe the spike during that first day after mixing is causing my issues? I've read that those brown rusty spots on leaves are due to PH swings.
Edit - Usually when first mixing, I send a feeding through the medium and check PH again and get it right, but then there's one more feeding that I don't check before/after. It's the following day that I notice the spike, so at most, she gets one feeding that's possibly high PH.
Edit2 - I never prep my rockwool. Just soak in feed that they're currently getting, or sometimes plain RO as I'll be flushing the pots after transplant with the feed anyways and that will displace whatever's in the RW, so it gets reprogrammed so to speak.
Edit - Usually when first mixing, I send a feeding through the medium and check PH again and get it right, but then there's one more feeding that I don't check before/after. It's the following day that I notice the spike, so at most, she gets one feeding that's possibly high PH.
Edit2 - I never prep my rockwool. Just soak in feed that they're currently getting, or sometimes plain RO as I'll be flushing the pots after transplant with the feed anyways and that will displace whatever's in the RW, so it gets reprogrammed so to speak.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
try soaking the RW over night
you can use nutrient solution at a ph of 5.0
and stop using silica
the silica can cause ph buffering confusion nad its not worth the trouble that it creates requiring extra acid to offset the ph rise... id recommend spraying the silica and leaving it out of the reservoir all together
id like more info on your reservoir and how it tracks
do you happen to keep a journal tracking the Ec and ph changes between reservoir changes showing the EC and ph changes daily or every second or third day?
tell me
if you set a new reservoir up on monday
whats the starting EC and PH and whats it at 3 and seven days from the start (with no additions of water or nutes or ph adjustments between)