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Beezcheeze

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I've also blocked all the ac vents off upstsirs for the winter and will open them up for summer while closing one or two downstairs. I've added an extra vent that was downstairs to go up there too. I think it's just all about the airflow that needs to move through the tent. As it sits my in line fan sits 10 feet away from the tent it pulls from. I'm going to move it right next to the tent and then add one right next to the other tent blowing out. My air circulation goes as this. 3 rooms all same size in a line. outer rooms are veg and grow rooms and middle room is bathroom and hallway between the three rooms. The air sort of goes in a circle.
 

Positivity

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area 51 uses cree, kind probably uses much less efficient leds creating more heat.

My homebuilt 450w light runs at 85 with canopy at 78f

My china direct 350w light ran 100+ with canopy temps 95+

Obviously not all lights create the same amount of heat just because they are using the same amount of watts. Thats where consideration to growers environments come into play with light design. Something area 51 seems to do while others fail.
 

az2000

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Oh please I'm not scaring anyone. Unless the kind led is less than 20% efficient and the a51 are better than 50% efficient there will be more heat in the tent. The guy is concerned with heat. Never forget the physics.
He's using 465w of Kind, that's 29w/sq ft. Aren't we assuming that's sufficient? I.e., I suspect he'll be disappointed with the results of that amount of *unknown* light. He could replace that intensity with 6 RW-75s.

In that apples/apples comparison, it's safe to assume the A51 will run cooler because it's safe to assume Kind isn't advertising the chips they use because there's nothing to advertise.
 

Bad Karma

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I only have a 4" in line fan and trying to send it through two tents and 20 ft of duct between two rooms. Just enough to create vaccum on flower tent and blow out up the veg tent. The upstairs gets so hot during summer even with ac goin. And winter another 4" inline fan blowing fresh cold air tk keep temps down.
You really need a 6" inline on that flowering tent, sir. That's part of your heat problem right there, insufficient air exchange. A 6" inline fan can be had for $65 on eBay and will change your world. Then your 4" inline fan can live out its days peacefully venting the veg tent.
 

Beezcheeze

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I have 3 4" in like fans. Hooking one up right outside flower tent and one right in the middle of the two rooms in the bathroom. So two 172 cfm fans pulling from tent. Shouldn't that do it?
 

crazyhazey

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been lookin into a diy cree, anyone know of a good kit for a 2x4? and you need a soldering iron to put it together right?
 

Bad Karma

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I have 3 4" in like fans. Hooking one up right outside flower tent and one right in the middle of the two rooms in the bathroom. So two 172 cfm fans pulling from tent. Shouldn't that do it?
No, because the one that you're setting up in the bathroom, between the two rooms, is merely a booster fan at that point. It's too far away from the source to really have an impact on the cfm. My advice, ditch the ducting between the two rooms completely, and vent each tent independently. The excessive ducting is over complicating things and it's the reason that heat is building up in your tents. That heat build up is going to continue, no matter which lights you use, until you fix your air exchange issue. Running LED lights in high temperature environments drastically reduces their efficiency, effectiveness, and life span. If you're willing to spend the money for top notch LED lights, like Area 51, isn't worth $65 more to make sure that they're cooled right?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VenTech-4-6-8-Inline-Duct-Booster-Blower-Fan-of-190-440-720-CFM-/190941352432?pt=US_Hydroponics&var=&hash=item2c74fdd1f0
 

Beezcheeze

Well-Known Member
Yes I do thank you. I'm going to remove all the duct and just have the air exchanged the same way only it will just cycle through the room?
 

Beezcheeze

Well-Known Member
Idk what that is. But I'm going to send them back. Hoping my rw150s will be here in a week or two so I can keep my plant goin when I return the kind. I just removed all the ducting.(i over thought this part of my build lol) and temps are better already. Ordered a cheap 6" fan im going to hook up to the flower tent w a controller to run lower than full power. One of my 3 4" fans will take care of the veg since it doesn't have to pull through a carbon filter like flower tent fan does. And the leftover to setup as an intake and Exaust to fresh air outside. Know of anywhere good to buy timers with temperature shut off and turn on settings? I think I almost have the ventallation figures out. Thanks a ton! Any other comments please keep them coming.
 

Beezcheeze

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't want the temp shit off timers to be reading the temperature from where they plug in. Would need some sort of a remote sensors to place where I need the temp controlled
 

ballist

Well-Known Member
Get an indoor outdoor thermometer, outdoors are at the end of a long wire usually. Keep your fan as close to the carbon scrubber as possible for best performance. It should be sucking air through the filter then out the tent.
 

Beezcheeze

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Ok. When my 6" fan gets here im going to just about set it ontop of the hole on top of tent. Carbon filter is just below that. I'm also going to build a square frame out of 1/2" pvc to fit in tent. I want to make my own scrog that is adjustable by sliding the string of you want.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
been lookin into a diy cree, anyone know of a good kit for a 2x4? and you need a soldering iron to put it together right?
No not necessarily, you can use the Ideal Chip-Lok Holders for Cree CXA's, which mounts the diode base to the heatsink, holding the cob and then has little clips for your + and - wire....[unless you have pre-drilled heatsinks, you usually have to tap and drill mounting holes for 2 pieces of hardware]


and the Bridgelux Vero's are essentially chipholder/diode combo. They too, can either be soldered or you can use the Molex wire adaptors for solderless connections....


As for requirements most suggest a minimum of 25watts / sq. ft and optimal around 35w. I would suggest more than 10 PAR watts/per sq. ft

Depending on distance from the canopy, which can be controlled with Current [amperage] and reflectors, I would say 4-8x Cree Cxa 3070's over your canopy would be ideal....

If you need a low canopy height: you could 6x, and run them between 600ma- 1050ma from between 8-14" above the canopy for a nice spread.
This would give you roughly 60-100+ PAR watts in the canopy. So bumping up to 8 diodes to get a little more PAR watts/ sq. ft, wouldn't be a bad idea. Although with 6x Diodes running 1050MA you are at about 12.5 Par watts/ sq. ft.

If you need canopy height over 18", running 4-6x diodes @ 1.4 amps would give you roughly 80-130 PAR watts.

This is all based on numbers from the Cree CXA AB 3000K...
Efficiency.jpg

If you need more height
 

Socalrob

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Ok. When my 6" fan gets here im going to just about set it ontop of the hole on top of tent. Carbon filter is just below that. I'm also going to build a square frame out of 1/2" pvc to fit in tent. I want to make my own scrog that is adjustable by sliding the string of you want.
If you're buying the ventech fan, don't get the one that comes with a filter. The filter didn't work at all, I replaced with a phresh filter which works well. Also if you want a good fan speed controller, get a variac transformer. They work very well with these types of fans.
 

Beezcheeze

Well-Known Member
I have a big phresh rated for 400cfm fan and another one smaller for next grow. And I just got these plain cheap black speed controllers. And a 6" inline green fan off hydro farm
 
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