If something worth doing, Its worth doing it right. My first grow room sugg. welcomed

Hello guys I am New to this forum and thought I'd post my recent progect since Im always reading and never posting.
It took me about a good 2-3 weeks to set the room up and Im glad I took the time to do it mostly right.
So I started off with a storage room in a back part of my house when I moved in it was a completely empty room. Meaning there was no insulation no dry wall and housing wires exposed. First things things first I set up all the electrical outlets I would be using in the room wired them myself. When the electrical was done I put in my vents. I vented a standard house size duct box into a wall that is connected to the house for in incoming air. This way it will be a lot easier to controll the air temp that comes in the room. Than I drilled a 6 inch whole in the roof and mounted my exhaust piping out, sealed everything up real good so I wont have to worry about leaks. After That I went about insulating the sides of the walls. I used pretty decent fiberglass insulation rolls you get at home depot. I also insulated the roof with the thickest insulation I could find in order to keep heat sensing down. After all this came "another insulator", I 1inch. thick styrofoam sheets you can get at HD to cover the entire room as well as the ceiling. For the cracks in and wholes in the walls I filled them with LIQUID FOAM "I absolutely love this stuff!" THAN I taped all my cracks with duct tape to make the room air tight. Next came a real deep cleaning to disinfect everything. For the incoming air I have hooked up a 6inch inline fan which is rated pretty high in cfm's and also pushes out a lot of air from the house. Exhaust I found a carbon fan deal for pretty good. Its also a 6inch. For the light I got a 600W MH/HPS[probably run strictly HPS, since I have a veg cab. I also insulated the ceiling with the heat shield bubble rap they use so there three layers of insulation up top to keep heat signature to zilch.the walls around the lights are also covered with mylar.

Now for the grow cab which is in the same room and really shrunk the room I got a used cabinet and wired it up to some Daylight CFLS and also made an intake as well as outake fan with small muffin fans. I also covered the walls with mylar.for the outside I had to use a lot of weather stripping and duct tape to make sure no light escapes since veg/flower are in the same room.

Everything seems fine I have been testing out the room with everything running to monitor temperatures in the room. Im afraid I may have used way to much insulation because I cant seem to get the room anylower than 80F I bought a fan speed controller thinking since its winter and all I might need to slow down the exhaust air to keep temps higher but it seems like the 600W heats the room up fairly quick I hope I dont need to buy a larger fan. I would disconnect the charcoal for better flow but there is no point when I have a grow cab where veg will be done. SUggestions on how I might move things around in the room for better airflow would be help full. I have once large ocsilating fan in the room but am thinking I could probably use another one to mount on the wall.

SO Ive spent probably around 6-7 maybe 8 hundred dollars setting this whole room up but Im thinking its going to pay off for me. :mrgreen: and right now Im waiting for a while here before I start ordering seeds and such. WOuld you fellas reccomend some good strains for Beg. growers that can take more stress as I know my first grow will not go like one of someone whose been doing this for years. Also if any of you seasoned vets out there are willing to donate some seeds that would also be greatly appreciated!
 
haha man that's alot of info to process but from what I read it sounds great. yea I would have to say u have to much insulation if u can't get ur temps below 80 in the winter. my setup is in a little shed like thing it's basically a little house with insulation hardwood floors and windows. I have to put a heater in there because my normal temp rang is 50-65 in there with 2 400w running side by side. whenever it gets real cold like the fuckin storms we've been having lately it creeps down to 40-45 during lights off. also I wouldnt worry about heat signatures I live in a pretty fuckin poor state on the news the cops can barely afford 1
fuckin chopper and they use it for hsp or they bust a couple grows in the mountains out in the open but never Rollin around with flir shit Cali style haha
 
Lol Jordan I was thinking the same exact thing when I saw what kind of Book it had turned out to be thinking most people on this site would not have patience or the will power to read it all. Hence the 0 feedback. Im still tweaking fan speeds and such but will be ready to go come new year. Funny thing with my fans my temps stay way better when intake fan speed is lower. That 6inch inline is very powerfull and Im thinking at full blast it fills the room up with a lot of air that heats up and the exhaust cant push out all the air hence the temp build up.

Thats gotta be tuff trying to grow out there Im sure its Way cold. but I bet a lot easier during the summer months since your temps arent to bad. So bad for you in the winter and bad for me in the summer will see how it will go in summer with a swamp cooler. 2 400Watters sounds like a lot of juice you got running there. THought about trading em in for 1 1000W might be more efficient.
 
Your spot on with the intake vs exhaust. Air is building up comming in at a faster rate than leaving. Make it exhaust after and it will draw in more fresh air, and cool better. This will also help to ensure no smell leaks. A bit of negative pressure is always better. Maybe Ben duct the heat from the light toward the exhaust using a cool tube.
 
I believe you would probably be better served with a passive intake. If you intake fan is pushing in more than your exhaust is getting rid of you are building a positive pressure which will push air and smell out of every crack. If you just use your exhaust to pull the air out of the room the negative pressure will pull fresh air in and make sure no smell escapes.
If you have a 6" exhaust it is recommended yu have 2 6" passive intakes, don't know if you can make this work or not, but from what you accomplished so far i don't imagine you will have any issue.
If you still have temp issues you may take that intake fan that you removed and put it inline with the other fan on the same line, it will pick up pressure a lot, and make sure that you are getting all you can out of your fans. Put one on/by the carbon filter and one near the exit.
You said you vented out the roof? Do you mean out the ceiling into the attic? OR actually to daylight? Just wondering
 
Grumpy ah not to sure what you mean when you say make it exhaust after.
Trueno thanks for the feed back man. I Actually like the idea of an intake fan just because it can bring more CO2 to the plants than that of a passive intake so Im going to keep it. The big deal is finding the right speed to run it at passivelly so that there is not any extra air build up No the room in totally air tight so Im not worried about smell or heat escaping but more of just the heat build up up do to the positive pressure. Now I Should of blown out the carbon filter or hooked it up backwards outside before hooking it up I did read somewhere that this get rid of all the extra carbon dust and gives you a better pull of air. So at this point Im thinking that the exhaust fan is going to have to be run 24/7 Even though I would rather set it up on a temp. outlet to let it auto on when it needs to.
I appreciate you guys feedback. Oh and It is vented to the roof as in I installed basically like a water heater vent out of the top of the roof. I love being handy :]
 
Sorry. Damn smart phone with big thumbs. Lol. Was supposed to be faster. Wow, and the "maybe Ben duct the heat" was supposed to be, maybe you can duct the heat. Again, sorry for the typo.

Basically the same thing 86coupe said, just not as in depth.
 
I believe my passive intakes will pull in far more fresh air than your active, but to each there own, without this element dialing in temps is going to be troublesome. It can be done, but in my experience it is much tougher to try to get 2 fans dialed in rather than one. And your only going to be able to push as much air in as you pull out anyhow. Good luck!
Have to ask, if you are so worried about heat signature, why did you vent outside? this is a tell tale sign if they are scoping your out, even if they can't locate exactly the source of the heat (which they could with a water heater or furnace)
 
Well if you think about it its pretty normal for dryers or water heaters to vent out of the roof or side of the house. Now typical new houses are all insulated very well. so If you vent to an attic that heat has nowhere to go and will register on your roof. Where as it looks Alot more normal when you have all the heat coming out of a pipe in the roof. Plain and simple the heat has somewhere to go instead of being trapped in an attic where high humidity can cause mold and register on heat signatures. It will also register on the heat signature coming out of a pipe but this looks a lot more normal than an attic over heating where they know there is no one who would vent something into their attic
 
also they cannot see through your walls so there no way that with a well insulated home they would be able to see where the heat was coming from if it was a dryer or water heater.


  • (which they could with a water heater or furnace)​


 
Passive air also creates a lot of stress on your exhaust fan where as if you help it out by blowing in just enough air to keep that negative pressure. How do you figure that your two passive inlets pull more air when my fan at half speed which is rated at 240CFM. So lets say 120CFM is equal to your 2 passive holes. Where if the fan speed is set to 3/4 of its power lets say 180CFM Im still creating that negative pressure PLus giving the plants more CO2 Plus helping my exhaust fan out so it doesnt have to work as hard. Like you said buddy to each his own
 
To me, running a passive intake makes one less thing to go wrong. An intake fan will. We'd to be synchronized with the ehaust to get the air flow established for what you want. With passive, one fan to do the work, also one point of failure. Less power consumption as well. Does everyone run passive intake? Not at all. As you said though, to each their own. Deffinately try to get a negative pressure going though, and do some temp readings again. Dont forget heat from light removal too. Doing removal from the lights themselves, will allow them to be closer to the plants.
 
Hey grumpy appreciate man. So light on temperatures have been perfectly synched. next IM working on the lights off. Im pulling air from inside the house so Im hoping I wont have to put a small space heater in the house. Whats cheaper Elec? or Gas Probably electric. I might end up putting a small space heater and set it up on a thermostat. Im so glad I didnt start plants yet I really gotta have this environment thing totally down before I take the big LEAP.
 
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