I Need Help

hooty668

Active Member
i just started leaf feeding with some all purpose and sparkiling water. but i came back and the one plant was turning yellow and curling. the temp is pretty good. the ph is a littly high. i put them in that water because i am leaving for eight days and hopfully they survive. if you have any idea wats going on tell me.


 

Toker420

Active Member
At that size, i would pot them a 1 gallon pot. Since you are leaving for a week add lots of water so it dont dry out. The yellow/burn of leave could be caused by too much nutrients.

Iam a pretty new grower so hope this helps. good luck.
 

potroastV2

Well-Known Member
The leaf curling down could mean a couple things, your PH level may need to be switched and I would also flush and decrease the nutrients that you are adding if any.

It also looks like you are getting some burn from your light on your plants,
take your hand and put it right above you plant if it gets to hot for comfort level then adjust your light a little higher.

If you are going away for a week you might want to rig up an auto feed, although I have left mine for a week and they were just drained when i got back a little bit of nutrients and water perked them right back up.
 

crassus

Active Member
The plants aren't in the path of a vent are they? The dry air that shoots out of those things are usually bad for plants.
 

Garden Knowm

The Love Doctor
YOU HAVE GOT tO GET THOSE PLANTS INTO PROPER CONTAINERS...

use a 80% soil 20% perlite mix... try to get 1-3 gallon pots..
NOT CLEAR POTS...

and stop foilar feeding or spraying anything on your leaves..

iloveyou

after you transplant to larger container.. water thoroughly with water that is PH'd to 6.6-7.0 (unless you are using MG, then ph your water to 8.0)

Your plants will SHOOT UP.. as soon as you do this..

iloveyou
: )

i look forward to more pictures!
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Garden Knowm said:
after you transplant to larger container.. water thoroughly with water that is PH'd to 6.6-7.0 (unless you are using MG, then ph your water to 8.0)

That pH is too high. Cannabis is an acid-loving plant. Some of the important nutrients will be unavailable to the plant if the pH is too high.

For soil growing, your nutrient feed pH should be in the mid 6's, and for hydro it should be in the mid 5's.
 

Garden Knowm

The Love Doctor
Pot roast.. I think you mis understood my post... or mis read it.. or just did not read it.. or jumped top conclusions.. or.. something...

LOL

It is standard to water MJ grown in soil (soil with a neutral PH of 7.0) with 6.8(PH) water.

BUT... there are exceptions.. especially when using the very popular yet NOT recommended soil called MIRACLE GROW..

iloveyou
 

Garden Knowm

The Love Doctor
hey potroast.. You peanut head.. you actually deducted points from my "reputation".. when you actually read my SHIT wrong.. you are a super goober..

i love super goobers!!!!!!


Now gve me my points back...

LOL


and don't try and defend yourself either..

'CAUSE YOU ARE WRONG!
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
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Garden Knowm said:
Pot roast.. I think you mis understood my post... or mis read it.. or just did not read it.. or jumped top conclusions.. or.. something...

LOL

It is standard to water MJ grown in soil (soil with a neutral PH of 7.0) with 6.8(PH) water.

BUT... there are exceptions.. especially when using the very popular yet NOT recommended soil called MIRACLE GROW..
Pardon me, but I did not misunderstand anything. You gave wrong information. And I'm not laughing.

If your soil or medium is pH 6.8 or higher, then you are not growing your cannabis in optimum conditions. Yes, it is a very forgiving plant, and can be grown in a range of pH 5.0 - 7.5, but you will have some deficiencies above pH 6.5.

Do some reading on nutrient availability.
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potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
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Wow, GG, you actually found a chart that backs your claim! Good for you, and nicely done. Now we can figure it out.

I've seen charts like this one for years, and this one is diffenent than any others that I have seen. As far as I know, the values for the minor elements are wrong. Iron, Manganese, Boron, Copper & Zinc have lower optimum availablility than is shown on this chart.

And I'm surprised that this appears to be a cannabis-specific chart. Many charts are not, and as you say "standard" charts are for all plants. You just have to lower the pH values for an acid-lover like cannabis.

Here is part of one of the best explanations that I have found on the subject: I'll highlight some good points.

Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius

In low light ( overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.

Extremes in pH can result in precipitation of certain nutrients. For plant roots to be able to absorb nutrients, the nutrients must be dissolved in solution. The process of precipitation (the reverse of dissolving) results in the formation of solids in the nutrient solution, making nutrients unavailable to plants. Not all precipitation settles to the bottom of the tanks, some precipitates occur as very fine suspension invisible to the naked eye. Plants can tell us their problems through leaf symptoms (e.g. iron [Fe] deficiency) when it's too late. Iron (Fe) is one essential plant nutrient whose solubility is affected by pH which is why it is added in a chelated form (or daily), Fe deficiency symptoms occur readily. At pH values over 7, less than 50% of the Fe is available to plants. At pH 8.0, no Fe is left in solution due to iron hydroxide precipitation (Fe(OH)3 - which eventually converts to rust). As long as the pH is kept below 6.5, over 90% of the Fe is available to plants. Varying pH of summer lettuce nutrient solutions also affects the solubility of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P). Due to calcium phosphate precipitation (Ca3(PO4)2) the availability of Ca and P decreases at pH values above 6.0. All other nutrients stay in solution and do not precipitate over a wide pH range. Poor water quality could exacerbate any precipitation reactions that may occur. Generally in the pH range 4.0 to 6.0, all nutrients are available to plants. Precipitation reduces Fe, Ca and P availability at pH 6.0 and over .

Adjusting pH The addition of acids or alkalis to nutrient solutions is the most common and practical means to adjust pH, and can be easily automated. There are ways to minimise pH variations and they are worth some consideration. Nitrogen is the essential inorganic nutrient required in the largest quantity by plants. Most plants are able to absorb either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4+) or both. NH4+ as the sole source of nitrogen or in excess is deleterious to the growth of many plant species. Some plants yield better when supplied with a mixture of NH4+ (ammonium) and NO3- (nitrate) compared to NO3- alone. A combination of NH4+ and NO3- can be used to buffer against changes in pH. Plants grown in nutrient solution containing only NO3- as the sole nitrogen source tend to increase solution pH, hence the need to add acid. But when approximately 10%-20% of the total nitrogen is supplied as NH4+, the nutrient solution pH is stabilised at pH 5.5. NH4+ concentration needs to be monitored as it has been shown recently that micro-organisms growing on plant root surfaces can convert the NH4+ to NO3-. Since hand-held ion-selective electrodes for measuring both NH4+ and NO3- are now available, it should be possible to accurately monitor and maintain a predetermined NO3-/NH4+ ratio throughout the life of the crop. Phosphorus is required in large amounts by plants. Interestingly, there are two forms of fertilisers containing both K and P - KH2PO4 mono-potassium phosphate (MKP) and K2HPO4 di-potassium phosphate. Equal quantities of both can be used to maintain the pH at 7.0. Using a higher proportion of K2HPO4 increases pH. MKP can be used to lower the solution pH. Buffers are solutions which resist pH change and are used to calibrate pH electrodes. Buffers can be added to nutrient solutions in an attempt to maintain pH stability. One such buffer is called 2-(N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid - abbreviated to MES. Many of the companies who claim better pH control with their 'specially' formulated nutrient solutions add MES to their mixes. It is important to remember when using MES, that after MES addition the pH is low and needs to be adjusted to your required level with an alkali such as potassium hydroxide (KOH). Another method of pH stabilisation is to use ion- exchange and chelating resins. Generally, these resins are small beads which have nutrients absorbed or chelated onto them - the nutrient solution circulates through the beads or the beads can be suspended in the nutrient tank. As plants absorb nutrients, more nutrients are released by the resins. The aim is to achieve controlled release of nutrients into the solution in an attempt to mimic the way the soil releases nutrients. Ideally, such release can adequately supply the growing plants' nutritional requirements and maintain pH stability.

Is pH Adjustment Critical? pH is not as critical as most hydroponicists believe. The main point is to avoid extremes in pH. Plants grow on soils with a wide range of pH. For most plant species there is an optimum pH in the region of pH 5 to pH 6.
Hey, It's me, I'm back. Yeah, I know that this is just some other guys write up, but it jives with everything that I have read on the subject.

Jorge Cervantes latest edition has the same chart with the lower values for the minor elements. He says for soil feed with pH 6.5 - 7.0 and for hydro to use 5.8 - 6.8. Then he says that most cannabis growers report best growth at the lower end of those ranges.

Like I said, For soil growing, your nutrient feed pH should be in the mid 6's, and for hydro it should be in the mid 5's.

HTH :mrgreen:
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potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
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Naw, the plant doesn't need P at this point. I think hooty's problems have been described pretty well. The plant is too young to feed nutrients, and it was sprayed while the hot, incandescent light was on.

This thread has been hijacked by a pH discussion. :bigjoint:

So that's it, garden knowm? I defended my position, even though you said I couldn't, and you answer with just your sig? Does that mean that you agree with me?

Does anyone else have any thoughts on this? I've been messing with pH for a lot of years, and I'm still amazed at what I don't understand about it. Obviously, when we see conflicting charts, there are some common misunderstandings.
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t's-buds

Active Member
well shit, potroast and garden knowm, you both have your arguments backed up. now the question is, which one to use?
 

Widow Maker

Well-Known Member
I feed my soil at 6.2-6.4. Works great! Every once in a while during the grow cycle I will add fish emultion without adjusting any ph at all. My garden seems pretty happy for the most part. I figure a good change cant hurt and should help with nute intake for the nutes that like higher ph.
 

VenomGrower6990

Well-Known Member
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Naw, the plant doesn't need P at this point. I think hooty's problems have been described pretty well. The plant is too young to feed nutrients, and it was sprayed while the hot, incandescent light was on.

This thread has been hijacked by a pH discussion. :bigjoint:

So that's it, garden knowm? I defended my position, even though you said I couldn't, and you answer with just your sig? Does that mean that you agree with me?

Does anyone else have any thoughts on this? I've been messing with pH for a lot of years, and I'm still amazed at what I don't understand about it. Obviously, when we see conflicting charts, there are some common misunderstandings.
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I agree 6-7 ph range for sòil. I ph @ 6.8 sometimes a little lower depending on the supplements. Seems to be a science for cannabis growers.
 
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