I don't know.

dolamic

dolamic

Well-Known Member
I think I've been institutionalized in a way to only think about banners and ads and name brands so much, I forgot to read. This, is all making, incredibly good sense to me. I mean, I have to stop myself and think, "Why am I using FF Nutes?", and you know, I can't answer that. I think because everybody told me I had to. I'm so concerned with getting the bigger, better, faster, more approach, that I honestly don't know what I'm doing. I use FF Soil because people tell me it's good, not because I know what they put in it or if it's acidic or alkaline. I don't know. I don't know what's in the nutrients I use, not because they're not listed or if they're real or not, but because I didn't even read them. I feel like a helpless sheep going with the herd just because everyone else is. I like organics, and using what I don't use in a recyclable manner. Everything has a purpose. Nothing left to waste. So is there a way to counter the effects of FF Nutrients on the FF Soil and return more to the earth? I've been using Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom and Grow Big. Along with Great White Mycho. I need to learn how everything works in conjunction with the soil. I'll get there eventually, I just have to read a bit more. Anyone willing to help along the way I would appreciate it :)

Don't you hate coming to a conclusion while you're high... damn it.
 
SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
If you want to REALLY grow organically, ditch the overpriced, wasteful, bottles aand mix up some of Subcool's Super Soil. You, your plants, and the planet will be happier.
 
dolamic

dolamic

Well-Known Member
SpicySativa said:
If you want to REALLY grow organically, ditch the overpriced, wasteful, bottles aand mix up some of Subcool's Super Soil. You, your plants, and the planet will be happier.
Click to expand...
I watched the video last night, wished I had seen it before I bought my soil this time. I will definitely give it a go next crop though. I've heard you have to leave it out to "cook"? I'm all indoors, can't do it outside right now. Is it still fine to just mix it up and use?
 
J

jcmjrt

Well-Known Member
dolamic said:
I watched the video last night, wished I had seen it before I bought my soil this time. I will definitely give it a go next crop though. I've heard you have to leave it out to "cook"? I'm all indoors, can't do it outside right now. Is it still fine to just mix it up and use?
Click to expand...
You don't have to be outdoors. You can "cook" your soil in a rubbermaid container(s) in your grow area, garage, on your balcony, wherever.

I've pretty much taken the route that you have starting with FF stuff...hey, it's better than miraclegro :) ...and then I went to organic bottled notes (roots organics) and now I'm basically water only (use compost teas, molasses and sometimes topdress with EWCs). I'm loving it and so are my girls. Read the stickies here in Organics (and don't miss TGA's section, it took me a while to find it) and if you're a reader, you might enjoy the Rev's book "True Living Organics". I'm not saying he's the beginning and the end but it's a good and practical read; I learned a few things, and am giving the spikes and layers technique a try this time round. I was thinking about next grow trying a homogenous organic mix (like sub's soil) vs. the organic soil with spikes and layers method that the Rev espouses. Check out the mainlining thread in sub's section. I'm going to try that one next time. It looks like a tremendous method...as long as I manage not to hack the plant up too badly... Hope you're having as much fun with your journey as I am with mine. :)

BTW, I doubt those Mycos are doing a lot of good considering you are using Grow Big which is definitely not organic and is hostile to the microbeasties. Oh, another good book which is good for any organic soil approach - Teaming with Microbes by Lowenfels and Lewis. It's a surprisingly easy and interesting read AND really is a good basis for understanding what is happening with the soil.
 
dolamic

dolamic

Well-Known Member
jcmjrt said:
You don't have to be outdoors. You can "cook" your soil in a rubbermaid container(s) in your grow area, garage, on your balcony, wherever.

I've pretty much taken the route that you have starting with FF stuff...hey, it's better than miraclegro :) ...and then I went to organic bottled notes (roots organics) and now I'm basically water only (use compost teas, molasses and sometimes topdress with EWCs). I'm loving it and so are my girls. Read the stickies here in Organics (and don't miss TGA's section, it took me a while to find it) and if you're a reader, you might enjoy the Rev's book "True Living Organics". I'm not saying he's the beginning and the end but it's a good and practical read; I learned a few things, and am giving the spikes and layers technique a try this time round. I was thinking about next grow trying a homogenous organic mix (like sub's soil) vs. the organic soil with spikes and layers method that the Rev espouses. Check out the mainlining thread in sub's section. I'm going to try that one next time. It looks like a tremendous method...as long as I manage not to hack the plant up too badly... Hope you're having as much fun with your journey as I am with mine. :)

BTW, I doubt those Mycos are doing a lot of good considering you are using Grow Big which is definitely not organic and is hostile to the microbeasties. Oh, another good book which is good for any organic soil approach - Teaming with Microbes by Lowenfels and Lewis. It's a surprisingly easy and interesting read AND really is a good basis for understanding what is happening with the soil.
Click to expand...
Sweet! Thanks a lot man. :) I will definitely give those a read. I was wondering the effects on FF Nutes and the Mycho I have been using. Seems to me the Mycho is more beneficial than the FF Nutes are. Sounds like they aren't working in tandem and are fighting along the way. I like the organic approach more, I see how trees and plants have been growing just fine in the wild without them. Better too. I like using everything that can be used. I heat my home with wood, so I have plenty of ash to use, I love eating eggs so there's some calcium in the shells right? I'll start reading now.... :D
 
J

jcmjrt

Well-Known Member
If you've got a balcony or garage or something like that, you should take a look at some of the vermicomposting threads. You can put those eggs shells to work with the worms...and veg scraps, tea bags, coffee grounds, shredded paper and...AND then you get some great EWCs for your plants. It's amazing how quality EWCs really make the plants happy and homemade ones are soooo much better than typical commercial castings.
 
dolamic

dolamic

Well-Known Member
I've got a list of things I need to make some teas, as soon as I get some money for it :D I'm also gonna get one of those big blue 55 gallon plastic drums and use it for my compost bucket for now. Been doing some reading and lots more to do, so I guess I'd better crack on!
 
AliCakes

AliCakes

Well-Known Member
Those big drums can make an awesome vermicomposting bin. When you are ready, look up a flow-through system designs. They work great and the sheer size of the tank can help to insulate your worms from many temperature issues.
 
Nullis

Nullis

Moderator
As somebody mentioned, the liquid Fox Farm nutrients Grow Big and Tiger Bloom are not organic. Tiger Bloom is organic-based, it still contains synthetic salts and chelating agents (EDTA). Basically you want to learn to check ingredients, stuff like: ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, calcium nitrate, iron EDTA, disodium ethylenediamine tetra acetate (EDTA)... no good. High NPK nutrients of any kind should generally be avoided.

When it comes to fertilizer labeling there are some tricky particulars. Fertilizer labeling is governed by federal and state laws. Not only is nitrogen expressed as nitrogen and not as the oxide forms as phosphorous and potassium are, but ingredients listed have to be 'approved' ingredients. Sometimes you will see other ingredients listed as "Non-Plant Food" ingredients, typically for humic acid or other ingredients such as cane sugar or amino acids.
 
Rrog

Rrog

Well-Known Member
Just a thought: You can mix your own if you want. It's just another option:

Base Soil

1/3 Sphagnum Peat from Premier Peat or Alaska Peat
1/3 Aeration material (pumice)
1/3 EWC

Per Cubic Foot of the Base Soil:

3 cup Charcoal (activated)
4 cups Rock Powders (4X Glacial, 1X Bentonite, 1X Oyster Shell, 1X Basalt)

½ Cup Neem Meal (2 g / L)
1 Cup Crab Shell Meal
2 Cups Kelp Meal
2 Cups Fish Meal
2 Cups Fish Bone Meal
1 Cup Sul-Po-Mag
½ Cup Alfalfa

1.5 Cups Montmorillonite clay
1.5 Cups Pyrophyllite Clay

1/2 cup this 3 part lime mix

1 part powdered dolomite lime
1 part agricultural gypsum
2 parts powdered oyster shell

1 cubic foot = 7.5 gallons.

Moisten with Fresh Aloe (2 Tbs Juice with 1 gallon water) and Accelerant Tea (Comfrey, Yarrow, Horsetail or Nettle)

I pre-inoculate with BTI and Nematodes.

Let this rest for 4 weeks.
 
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