I could use some help

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
My plant seems to be sick and I'm not sure why, or how to help her. she is a clone just about 3 weeks after rooting. I have 4 plants of the same strain growing in the same area, planted in the same soil from the same batch,watered with the same container as the others. her growth hasn't really slowed, but she looks funny. I tried looking in the stickys but the photos don't open. anyway enough rambling here's a photo...
DSCN1999.jpg


And this is her mom
DSCN2000.jpg

And this is her little sister.
DSCN2001.jpg
 

rhino1111

Well-Known Member
pots too small. pic one looks like a nute burn to me.

pic 3 overwatered. not enough root space.

id get all the plants into bigger pots.
 

freeze600cc

Member
pic one does look like nute burn.

pic 2 looks okay whats wrong with that plant?

pic 3 looks okay too but ya maybe go with Rhinos suggestion and put in a bigger pot. Looks like the lower leaves are showing signs of a magnesium deficiency??
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
pic one does look like nute burn.

pic 2 looks okay whats wrong with that plant?

pic 3 looks okay too but ya maybe go with Rhinos suggestion and put in a bigger pot. Looks like the lower leaves are showing signs of a magnesium deficiency??
nothing is wrong with plant 2 and 3... that was kind of my point... why is plant one looking "burned" some of the leaf edges are burnt from a light(not all but some of the burn look) when it gets the same water and everything else and it looks so bad
 

freeze600cc

Member
some plants cant handle as much intesity or amount of nutrients...u just gotta learn whats a good amount for that plant
 

freeze600cc

Member
Ya of course. That's like saying if you had twins...they should both eat the exact same amount and both always feel full with that amount of food. They share the same genetics..thats it.
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
That looks like a magnesium def to me but I could be wrong, never had that def in veg but sure got it in bloom so I have done alot of research on the matter. What food are you using?


Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.



Magnesium is a vital element for humans, plants and animals. Among other things it is a building block for chlorophyll in plants so it is essential for photosynthesis and it also plays an important role in a number of metabolic processes. Magnesium compounds have been used since antiquity in medicine for heartburn, against poisoning and as a laxative. Magnesium powder is used on equipment for gymnastic exercises because it makes the hands rough and absorbs moisture. Magnesium is a very light, malleable, elastic metal with a silver-white sheen that burns with a blinding light in the air. It is one of the most common elements on earth and the earth’s crust contains approx. 2.09% magnesium, but only in compound form. Magnesium compounds are frequently found in seawater, salt deposits, water from salt lakes and in some mineral waters. It is also present in tap water and, together with calcium, is responsible for the hardness of water. Inorganic, magnesium fertilizers are prepared from the same salts as are used when preparing potassium fertilizers. When grown from seeds cannabis don’t need extra nutrients for the first two weeks.

  • There are no visible symptoms in the first 3 – 4 weeks, the plant continues to grow well, is dark green and looks healthy.

  • The deficiency symptoms first become visible in cannabis after 4 – 6 weeks when small, rust brown necrotic spots and/or cloud-like chlorosis appear under the flowering top on the middle-aged leaves. The color of the young leaves and the development of the flowers remains normal.

  • The size and number of the rust brown spots increases on the leaves while the chlorosis also spreads and becomes yellower.

  • The symptoms spread throughout the plant which will now look a sorry sight.

  • If it is a serious deficiency the young leaves will also become chlorotic and production will fall.

Developments in chronological order:
Symptoms

Magnesium is mobile in the marijuana plant so if there is a deficiency, the chloroplasts in the middle-aged leaves that are below the flowering top are broken down and the magnesium is transported to the young parts. This process of breaking down the chlorophyll is manifested in the rust brown spots and/or vague, cloud-like chlorotic spots between the veins. It is more difficult to extract magnesium from the older leaves because the magnesium is an intrinsic part of the organic material. A minor magnesium deficiency has little effect on flowering despite the fact that the formation of flowers makes the magnesium deficiency symptoms worse.
Development


  • There are no visible symptoms in the first 3 – 4 weeks, the plant continues to grow well, is dark green and looks healthy.

  • The deficiency symptoms first become visible in cannabis after 4 – 6 weeks when small, rust brown necrotic spots and/or cloud-like chlorosis appear under the flowering top on the middle-aged leaves. The colour of the young leaves and the development of the flowers is still normal.

  • The size and number of the rust brown spots increases on the leaves while the chlorosis also increases and becomes yellower.

  • The symptoms spread throughout the plant which will now look a sorry sight.

  • If it is a serious deficiency the young leaves will also become chlorotic and production will fall.
Possible causes

Magnesium deficiencies in cannabis occur more often relative to other deficiencies. Magnesium deficiency in the root environment can also occur when magnesium levels are normal or high as well as when there is a deficiency. This is because absorption can be slowed down by all sorts of circumstances.
Some of these are:

  • A very wet, cold and/or acidic root environment.

  • High levels of potassium, ammonium and/or calcium (for example a lot of lime in the tap water or lime rich, clay ground) compared with the magnesium levels.

  • Limited root system and a heavy load on the plants.

  • High EC in the medium, inhibited evaporation.
What should you do?


  • Use fertilizers that contain magnesium as a preventative measure and spray with Epsom salts as a curative measure.

  • Check the temperature, humidity, EC and pH in the soil or substrate.

  • Go to the shop for expert advice. They specialize in this crop and have the right products available. Correctly formulated fertilizer contains sufficient magnesium.

  • If it has been established that there is a deficiency you should spray with a 2% solution of Epsom salts.
Fertilizing via the roots: Inorganic: Epsom salts on hydro, kieserite on soil. Organic: old, rotten stable or turkey manure.

  • Correct possible causes: If the pH is too low (< 5) when cultivating in soil use turkey manure which contains magnesium. With hydro cultivation temporarily drip feed the nutrient solution at a higher pH of 6.5. If the EC is too high rinse and/or drip feed with just tap water temporarily. When cultivating inside keep the root temperature above 19 ºC (20-25 ºC).
A little extra magnesium won&#8217;t do any harm and excess magnesium doesn&#8217;t occur very often when cultivating with soil. If there is too much magnesium, calcium absorption will slow down and it will look like there is too much salt because growth will slow down and the crop will turn dark green.
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
That looks like a magnesium def to me but I could be wrong, never had that def in veg but sure got it in bloom so I have done alot of research on the matter. What food are you using?


Secondary Nutrients Magnesium (Mg) is found as a central atom in the chlorophyll molecule and is essential to the absorption of light energy. Magnesium aids in the utilization of nutrients, neutralizes acids and toxic compounds produced by the plant. Deficiency signs of magnesium are: Older leaves yellow from the center outward, while veins remain green on deficient plants. Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant.



Magnesium is a vital element for humans, plants and animals. Among other things it is a building block for chlorophyll in plants so it is essential for photosynthesis and it also plays an important role in a number of metabolic processes. Magnesium compounds have been used since antiquity in medicine for heartburn, against poisoning and as a laxative. Magnesium powder is used on equipment for gymnastic exercises because it makes the hands rough and absorbs moisture. Magnesium is a very light, malleable, elastic metal with a silver-white sheen that burns with a blinding light in the air. It is one of the most common elements on earth and the earth&#8217;s crust contains approx. 2.09% magnesium, but only in compound form. Magnesium compounds are frequently found in seawater, salt deposits, water from salt lakes and in some mineral waters. It is also present in tap water and, together with calcium, is responsible for the hardness of water. Inorganic, magnesium fertilizers are prepared from the same salts as are used when preparing potassium fertilizers. When grown from seeds cannabis don&#8217;t need extra nutrients for the first two weeks.

  • There are no visible symptoms in the first 3 &#8211; 4 weeks, the plant continues to grow well, is dark green and looks healthy.

  • The deficiency symptoms first become visible in cannabis after 4 &#8211; 6 weeks when small, rust brown necrotic spots and/or cloud-like chlorosis appear under the flowering top on the middle-aged leaves. The color of the young leaves and the development of the flowers remains normal.

  • The size and number of the rust brown spots increases on the leaves while the chlorosis also spreads and becomes yellower.

  • The symptoms spread throughout the plant which will now look a sorry sight.

  • If it is a serious deficiency the young leaves will also become chlorotic and production will fall.

Developments in chronological order:
Symptoms

Magnesium is mobile in the marijuana plant so if there is a deficiency, the chloroplasts in the middle-aged leaves that are below the flowering top are broken down and the magnesium is transported to the young parts. This process of breaking down the chlorophyll is manifested in the rust brown spots and/or vague, cloud-like chlorotic spots between the veins. It is more difficult to extract magnesium from the older leaves because the magnesium is an intrinsic part of the organic material. A minor magnesium deficiency has little effect on flowering despite the fact that the formation of flowers makes the magnesium deficiency symptoms worse.
Development


  • There are no visible symptoms in the first 3 &#8211; 4 weeks, the plant continues to grow well, is dark green and looks healthy.

  • The deficiency symptoms first become visible in cannabis after 4 &#8211; 6 weeks when small, rust brown necrotic spots and/or cloud-like chlorosis appear under the flowering top on the middle-aged leaves. The colour of the young leaves and the development of the flowers is still normal.

  • The size and number of the rust brown spots increases on the leaves while the chlorosis also increases and becomes yellower.

  • The symptoms spread throughout the plant which will now look a sorry sight.

  • If it is a serious deficiency the young leaves will also become chlorotic and production will fall.
Possible causes

Magnesium deficiencies in cannabis occur more often relative to other deficiencies. Magnesium deficiency in the root environment can also occur when magnesium levels are normal or high as well as when there is a deficiency. This is because absorption can be slowed down by all sorts of circumstances.
Some of these are:

  • A very wet, cold and/or acidic root environment.

  • High levels of potassium, ammonium and/or calcium (for example a lot of lime in the tap water or lime rich, clay ground) compared with the magnesium levels.

  • Limited root system and a heavy load on the plants.

  • High EC in the medium, inhibited evaporation.
What should you do?


  • Use fertilizers that contain magnesium as a preventative measure and spray with Epsom salts as a curative measure.

  • Check the temperature, humidity, EC and pH in the soil or substrate.

  • Go to the shop for expert advice. They specialize in this crop and have the right products available. Correctly formulated fertilizer contains sufficient magnesium.

  • If it has been established that there is a deficiency you should spray with a 2% solution of Epsom salts.
Fertilizing via the roots: Inorganic: Epsom salts on hydro, kieserite on soil. Organic: old, rotten stable or turkey manure.

  • Correct possible causes: If the pH is too low (< 5) when cultivating in soil use turkey manure which contains magnesium. With hydro cultivation temporarily drip feed the nutrient solution at a higher pH of 6.5. If the EC is too high rinse and/or drip feed with just tap water temporarily. When cultivating inside keep the root temperature above 19 ºC (20-25 ºC).
A little extra magnesium won&#8217;t do any harm and excess magnesium doesn&#8217;t occur very often when cultivating with soil. If there is too much magnesium, calcium absorption will slow down and it will look like there is too much salt because growth will slow down and the crop will turn dark green.
I use Jack's for nutes. Mag def. is exactly what i thought right away to. I looked through some threads and I couldn't find any good photos of this problem. from reading the problem descriptions I thought maybe mag issue also.

I'm not sure that my leaves have those spots like that. I will inspect them really good this afternoon. Mine seem to be darker green near the veins and lighter green on the outer parts, just like your photo. They are also closing up a little but they are not limp at all.

I'm gonna check it out in a few minutes and see how it's doing. If it doesn't look any better than i will "make it rain" later this afternoon and that should flush out any possibility of an over-nute problem. if it doesn't get better from that i will attack the magnesium.

I guess i would use the epsom salt spray, what would you recommend?
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
bigger pots
I understand your answer to all my problems is bigger pots. but here's my take on all of it and I'm sure you will understand:

Picture 2 is about to go into flowering soon, so YES, she will get a bigger pot as soon as i move her. she is ready for a transplant, i am just trying to keep her from getting any bigger at the moment. she is very healthy!

Picture 3 is a very young clone in a party cup, she just got roots a few days ago so this pot is plenty big enough for her. no need to change, this plant also healthy!

Picture 1 is in a 6" pot. this is plenty big enough for now. she is in no danger of going rootbound for some time yet. however, she is sick. this is why i opened the thread, to find out why her leaves are that color and closing up to the point that she looks nothing like her mom. and how to help her.

I will take her out of the pot and inspect her roots just as i do every week with ALL my plants. If the roots are ready to be transplanted i will do so, but i don't think a bigger pot will fix her health problem, would it?
 

i8urbabi

Well-Known Member
a bigger pot size doesnt matter. people have gotten very large plants out of 1 gallon pots. use your nutes right and your roots will develop more ends and maximize its space. def. just make sure you have a ph tool for a matter like this and/or a ppm meter because it skips alot of guessing and gets to the point. and that big post above by max is super helpful
 

stoneyluv

Well-Known Member
a bigger pot size doesnt matter. people have gotten very large plants out of 1 gallon pots. use your nutes right and your roots will develop more ends and maximize its space. def. just make sure you have a ph tool for a matter like this and/or a ppm meter because it skips alot of guessing and gets to the point. and that big post above by max is super helpful
Thank you! and you are correct, max's post was a very good one and he certantly already recieved rep from me on that one!

I do have a PH tool but I don't have a PPM meter, are one of these really required for soil grows?
 

max316420

Well-Known Member
What type of water are you using? And to answer your last question YES you should def have 2 meters ph and ppm, believe me they can save your ass in a jam. Let me give you a slight example: I was having a slight problem in my 3-4 week of bloom, showed the exact symts of a mag def, advanced nutes guy told me to run my calmag every watering at 50-100 ppm. so I filled a gallon jug up and put 1 teaspoon of calmag in there which by their directions is a somewhat low feeding. I had been using 2 teaspoons per gallon every watering and thought that was fine. So I'm wondering why my ladies aren't getting any better but not really getting any worse???? Come to find out 1 teaspoon of calmag alone in ro water brought it from 10ppm to 250ppm, can we say OVERDOSE. Now why do I still have a def??? Well come to find out that I was using to much calmag and my calcium content being so high was locking out my magnesium and not allowing the plant to absorb it. Long story short, look at these meters as an investment and you wont regret it... good luck and happy gardening.... O and one more thing, your pot size is just fine and wouldn't be causing this, eventually you will wanna repot but i wouldn't worry about it right not. Fix your problem first and then worry about that later
 
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