Hydrogen Peroxide vs. Beneficial Bacteria in a WaterFarm Autoflower Grow

Just Be

Well-Known Member
From what I understand, both hydrogen peroxide and beneficial bacteria enable a plant to uptake more nutrient solution. I also understand that hydrogen peroxide will provide valuable oxygen to the roots but will also kill off both good and bad bacteria. That being the case, I'm not sure if it'd be better to use hydrogen peroxide or beneficial bacteria during a 70 day autoflower grow in a single WaterFarm. This will be my first attempt at hydroponics of any kind so pardon the 'newbieishness' of my question. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated.
 

HolyAngel

Well-Known Member
From what I understand, both hydrogen peroxide and beneficial bacteria enable a plant to uptake more nutrient solution. I also understand that hydrogen peroxide will provide valuable oxygen to the roots but will also kill off both good and bad bacteria. That being the case, I'm not sure if it'd be better to use hydrogen peroxide or beneficial bacteria during a 70 day autoflower grow in a single WaterFarm. This will be my first attempt at hydroponics of any kind so pardon the 'newbieishness' of my question. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated.
I've used peroxide to clean my res and roots and such but I personally prefer to run with bacteria in the res than without.. it just makes sense to me. The good bacteria help the uptake of nutrients and keep the roots healthy and fend off bad bacteria. I only have to dose bacteria weekly and/or with water changes whereas if I used peroxide I'd have to dose it daily or at best every two days since it offgases so quickly. Just took me a couple weeks(even though I've had fish tanks for years) to realize letting the water sit out before I used it isn't enough to dechlorinate it, have to use something to break down the chloramines. Once I did that growing has been gravy and roots are looking great. Beforehand I was trying to use bacteria without dechlorinating first(using Seachem Safe now) and had a ton of root issues the whole time.

If you really did want to run sterile, I would recommend something like pool shock instead of peroxide to do it as it lasts waaaaay longer than peroxide and still keeps everything clean. I'm sure some other will chime in on that.
 

Just Be

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the insightful reply, @HolyAngel. I looked into the pool shock and the search results were full of multi-page long threads that turned into pissing matches. I'll think I'll stick with the bacteria and will continue trying to keep it simple. Thanks again!
 
From what I understand, both hydrogen peroxide and beneficial bacteria enable a plant to uptake more nutrient solution. I also understand that hydrogen peroxide will provide valuable oxygen to the roots but will also kill off both good and bad bacteria. That being the case, I'm not sure if it'd be better to use hydrogen peroxide or beneficial bacteria during a 70 day autoflower grow in a single WaterFarm. This will be my first attempt at hydroponics of any kind so pardon the 'newbieishness' of my question. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated.
I agree with alot that was said here and just wanted to add a few things to the topic at hand .

BTW my spelling is not the best , bear with me.

Im an experienced DWC Bubble Bucket grower with 5 Gallon Buckets fit with 6 inch Net Pots and air stones . I dont use a chiller due to cold enviorments in New England (avg. 40-50* F) most of the year . I have used many diffrent Microbes/BenificalBacteria , Enzymes , Additives and Hydro Acids. I was doing what most new aged growers do early imto growing with trying products due to golden age of cannabis were all in now . We all are Growers and have the options now a days , so its hard not to be. I have used samples and obtained many diffrent bottles along the grows and Im going to make a statement for all DWC growers useing Bubble Buckets with Air Stones , No chiller growing method . The statement is , Benifical Bacteria and the teams of Microbes and strains of bacteria is not needed . Its something that ends up hurting you , more then helping. In DWC ive seen the addtion of the stuff add unwanted PPM/EC levels , make leaves seem to have a money/paper type feel texture . The leaves will generate discolored and fade pattern spolching , almost round spots that blend toeghter in a sploch pattern per say. The Leaves tend to crinkle a bit and twist sometimes. This was all maintained with a Spot on PH of 5.8 with no swing and water temps consisitently between 65 and 69 degrees F. The rooms air temps at 75 degrees Lights On and 67 degrees F. at night time/lightsoff . The PPM are always the spot on and never over FEED nor water level too high to be overwatered . I totally saw issues with Max Microbes , Tarantula , Mammoth P , Orca , Great White Chum , MicrobialLife , etc.. they dont need to be added because your keeping your DWC Clean and Steril and you do Bucket Change out and Clean out every week so your replacing your water and all every week to provide your plant with clean and full nutrient set up availability. Your not fighting bad Bacteria unless your not useing the key to DWC known as (Enzymes) and (Hyperchlorous Acid) 0.005% IMO.

The key to DWC is to combine these two products after you mixed your nutrients and at the end before you reset your bucket back up and drop your roots back into the water , you must have these addtives to your grow.

These are the key products to keeping your DWC the cleanest and in order to never need extra ppms or addtives such as Benifical Bacteria or Microbe Teams of Bacteria .

Key # 1 -(Enzymes) Helps clean dead root matter , breaks down the salts , restructures compounds and nutrients to be utilized by the plant and also helps fight off root rot phythium . Products like SLF 100 is the best or Cyco Zyme or CannaZyme. I havent used hydrozyme so idk but herd its the same as cannazyme.

Key # 2 - (Hyperchlorous Acid) 0.005% this product will kill any bacteria and root rot and stages of anything starting to spread as far as the bad bacteria. It also treats the plant where its ryzosphere is at full production , utilzing the clean and clear zone by keeping the nutrients clear of bad chemicals like some other Hyperchlorus Acids do. Its important to use these companys that base there makeup for plants . Companys such as UC roots , Watermaxx , ClearRez and not pool shock , you want these plant growing companys so you dont fuck up your garden with DIY.

I do agree with alot of what was posted here and I dont want the demenor of disagreement.
I just wanted to post what I think are two really good key componets to the DWC no chiller steril grow method .
Thanks guys @RealThor89 VikingGardens_Thor on IG
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
From what I understand, both hydrogen peroxide and beneficial bacteria enable a plant to uptake more nutrient solution. I also understand that hydrogen peroxide will provide valuable oxygen to the roots but will also kill off both good and bad bacteria. That being the case, I'm not sure if it'd be better to use hydrogen peroxide or beneficial bacteria during a 70 day autoflower grow in a single WaterFarm. This will be my first attempt at hydroponics of any kind so pardon the 'newbieishness' of my question. Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated.
try it both ways: i use southern ag garden friendly fungicide (same stuff as hydroguard but a million x more concentrated). i've also used Pool Shock. nothing is cheaper. some prefer sterile: some prefer bennies. either way works.
 

Just Be

Well-Known Member
I agree with alot that was said here and just wanted to add a few things to the topic at hand .

BTW my spelling is not the best , bear with me.

Im an experienced DWC Bubble Bucket grower with 5 Gallon Buckets fit with 6 inch Net Pots and air stones . I dont use a chiller due to cold enviorments in New England (avg. 40-50* F) most of the year . I have used many diffrent Microbes/BenificalBacteria , Enzymes , Additives and Hydro Acids. I was doing what most new aged growers do early imto growing with trying products due to golden age of cannabis were all in now . We all are Growers and have the options now a days , so its hard not to be. I have used samples and obtained many diffrent bottles along the grows and Im going to make a statement for all DWC growers useing Bubble Buckets with Air Stones , No chiller growing method . The statement is , Benifical Bacteria and the teams of Microbes and strains of bacteria is not needed . Its something that ends up hurting you , more then helping. In DWC ive seen the addtion of the stuff add unwanted PPM/EC levels , make leaves seem to have a money/paper type feel texture . The leaves will generate discolored and fade pattern spolching , almost round spots that blend toeghter in a sploch pattern per say. The Leaves tend to crinkle a bit and twist sometimes. This was all maintained with a Spot on PH of 5.8 with no swing and water temps consisitently between 65 and 69 degrees F. The rooms air temps at 75 degrees Lights On and 67 degrees F. at night time/lightsoff . The PPM are always the spot on and never over FEED nor water level too high to be overwatered . I totally saw issues with Max Microbes , Tarantula , Mammoth P , Orca , Great White Chum , MicrobialLife , etc.. they dont need to be added because your keeping your DWC Clean and Steril and you do Bucket Change out and Clean out every week so your replacing your water and all every week to provide your plant with clean and full nutrient set up availability. Your not fighting bad Bacteria unless your not useing the key to DWC known as (Enzymes) and (Hyperchlorous Acid) 0.005% IMO.

The key to DWC is to combine these two products after you mixed your nutrients and at the end before you reset your bucket back up and drop your roots back into the water , you must have these addtives to your grow.

These are the key products to keeping your DWC the cleanest and in order to never need extra ppms or addtives such as Benifical Bacteria or Microbe Teams of Bacteria .

Key # 1 -(Enzymes) Helps clean dead root matter , breaks down the salts , restructures compounds and nutrients to be utilized by the plant and also helps fight off root rot phythium . Products like SLF 100 is the best or Cyco Zyme or CannaZyme. I havent used hydrozyme so idk but herd its the same as cannazyme.

Key # 2 - (Hyperchlorous Acid) 0.005% this product will kill any bacteria and root rot and stages of anything starting to spread as far as the bad bacteria. It also treats the plant where its ryzosphere is at full production , utilzing the clean and clear zone by keeping the nutrients clear of bad chemicals like some other Hyperchlorus Acids do. Its important to use these companys that base there makeup for plants . Companys such as UC roots , Watermaxx , ClearRez and not pool shock , you want these plant growing companys so you dont fuck up your garden with DIY.

I do agree with alot of what was posted here and I dont want the demenor of disagreement.
I just wanted to post what I think are two really good key componets to the DWC no chiller steril grow method .
Thanks guys @RealThor89 VikingGardens_Thor on IG
Wow, that's a lot of info to take in. Thanks so much. I really appreciate your taking the time to answer so thoroughly. I definitely won't be using a chiller since my climate is probably identical to yours (also in NE) ..I guess I'm going to have to reconsider scrogging if maintaining the rez means having to lift the top and take the roots out of the water for cleaning every 7 to 10 days. Do you think that the use of enzymes and hypochlorous acid will effect the stability of Advanced Nutrients' pH Perfect nutes?
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
try it both ways: i use southern ag garden friendly fungicide (same stuff as hydroguard but a million x more concentrated). i've also used Pool Shock. nothing is cheaper. some prefer sterile: some prefer bennies. either way works.
This. I've had 0 issues since I started the southern ag fungicide at 1/4ml per gallon.
I dont touch or clean the insides of my sites at all before the end of the grow.
 

MrGreenFingers99

Well-Known Member
I agree with alot that was said here and just wanted to add a few things to the topic at hand .

BTW my spelling is not the best , bear with me.

Im an experienced DWC Bubble Bucket grower with 5 Gallon Buckets fit with 6 inch Net Pots and air stones . I dont use a chiller due to cold enviorments in New England (avg. 40-50* F) most of the year . I have used many diffrent Microbes/BenificalBacteria , Enzymes , Additives and Hydro Acids. I was doing what most new aged growers do early imto growing with trying products due to golden age of cannabis were all in now . We all are Growers and have the options now a days , so its hard not to be. I have used samples and obtained many diffrent bottles along the grows and Im going to make a statement for all DWC growers useing Bubble Buckets with Air Stones , No chiller growing method . The statement is , Benifical Bacteria and the teams of Microbes and strains of bacteria is not needed . Its something that ends up hurting you , more then helping. In DWC ive seen the addtion of the stuff add unwanted PPM/EC levels , make leaves seem to have a money/paper type feel texture . The leaves will generate discolored and fade pattern spolching , almost round spots that blend toeghter in a sploch pattern per say. The Leaves tend to crinkle a bit and twist sometimes. This was all maintained with a Spot on PH of 5.8 with no swing and water temps consisitently between 65 and 69 degrees F. The rooms air temps at 75 degrees Lights On and 67 degrees F. at night time/lightsoff . The PPM are always the spot on and never over FEED nor water level too high to be overwatered . I totally saw issues with Max Microbes , Tarantula , Mammoth P , Orca , Great White Chum , MicrobialLife , etc.. they dont need to be added because your keeping your DWC Clean and Steril and you do Bucket Change out and Clean out every week so your replacing your water and all every week to provide your plant with clean and full nutrient set up availability. Your not fighting bad Bacteria unless your not useing the key to DWC known as (Enzymes) and (Hyperchlorous Acid) 0.005% IMO.

The key to DWC is to combine these two products after you mixed your nutrients and at the end before you reset your bucket back up and drop your roots back into the water , you must have these addtives to your grow.

These are the key products to keeping your DWC the cleanest and in order to never need extra ppms or addtives such as Benifical Bacteria or Microbe Teams of Bacteria .

Key # 1 -(Enzymes) Helps clean dead root matter , breaks down the salts , restructures compounds and nutrients to be utilized by the plant and also helps fight off root rot phythium . Products like SLF 100 is the best or Cyco Zyme or CannaZyme. I havent used hydrozyme so idk but herd its the same as cannazyme.

Key # 2 - (Hyperchlorous Acid) 0.005% this product will kill any bacteria and root rot and stages of anything starting to spread as far as the bad bacteria. It also treats the plant where its ryzosphere is at full production , utilzing the clean and clear zone by keeping the nutrients clear of bad chemicals like some other Hyperchlorus Acids do. Its important to use these companys that base there makeup for plants . Companys such as UC roots , Watermaxx , ClearRez and not pool shock , you want these plant growing companys so you dont fuck up your garden with DIY.

I do agree with alot of what was posted here and I dont want the demenor of disagreement.
I just wanted to post what I think are two really good key componets to the DWC no chiller steril grow method .
Thanks guys @RealThor89 VikingGardens_Thor on IG
I thought Enzymes are a form benefial bacteria so doesnt the Hyperchlorous Acid kill them making it pointless adding both?
 
Wow, that's a lot of info to take in. Thanks so much. I really appreciate your taking the time to answer so thoroughly. I definitely won't be using a chiller since my climate is probably identical to yours (also in NE) ..I guess I'm going to have to reconsider scrogging if maintaining the rez means having to lift the top and take the roots out of the water for cleaning every 7 to 10 days. Do you think that the use of enzymes and hypochlorous acid will effect the stability of Advanced Nutrients' pH Perfect nutes?
I left out a really great key to this feature in New England where the weather is cold and chillers are not needed in DWc BubbleBuckets , and its ! RegenARoot ! added to the Emzymes and HyperChlorous Acid 0.028% treatments. Its helping ,e establish a better root zone as well as protect aginst the bad bacteria and Root Rot with its nutrient make up . IVE NEVER HAD ROOT ROT EVER NOR EVER LOST A PLANT TO ROOT ROT SO FAR SO , ILL STICK TO MY GUNZ .

If your useing 5 gallon buckets like myslef , I use 3.25 gallons of water for the water level to sit just perfect 1 half inch under the 6 inch net pot , and when I mix my enzymes (SLF100 , Cyco Zyme ) I use full strenghth and with the (Hyperchlorours Acid 0.028% Clear Rez , UC Roots or Watermaxx) I dont mix full strength , I use 8ml per 3.25 gallons and its not added every week . Enzymes are added weekly during change out /flush .
I dont see the PH Perfect line becoming unstable useing a a small amount of pro plant hyperchlorous acid every two to three weeks to help sterilize the ryzosphere . But if you use pool shock in your resivor for feeding , its going to be a challange to find out exactly how to dose it . It may effect it useing pool shock.

Bucket change outs are also considered flushing weekly if you ask me , I do scrub my buckets with a small soultion of pool shock but thats for cleaning and after rinseing very very well the buckets are clean and the roots get a shower spray of water as well rinseing off there roots each week just to get what the enzymes missed or havent fully broken down yet . So really its a steril dwc grow method , that takes manhours and gives you better results then almost anyone can believe. Ive always gotten way over 2 lbs per light and one time hitting 3.5 lbs per light on 8 week veg from seed , so seedlings take two weeks to transition to the DWC , so really your getting 6 weeks of growth and 70 days of Flowering for 3.5lbs per light on a 7.5 lb run with 12 cultivars only one of them Soil in a Ten gallon for shits and giggles to prove that DWC was just as good of terps as soil organic and I always used the same Enzymes and HyperChlorousAcid Treatments AND NOW ADDING REGEN A ROOT FOR THE BEST root zone COMBO for MY RYZOSPHERE FOR VEG AND BLOOM , FULL SCHEDULE ALL THE WAY TO THE FLUSH . Now I havent tried other stuff yet with other nutrients , but this works and its not expensive .
 
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Just Be

Well-Known Member
I left out a really great key to this feature in New England where the weather is cold and chillers are not needed in DWc BubbleBuckets , and its ! RegenARoot ! added to the Emzymes and HyperChlorous Acid 0.028% treatments. Its helping ,e establish a better root zone as well as protect aginst the bad bacteria and Root Rot with its nutrient make up . IVE NEVER HAD ROOT ROT EVER NOR EVER LOST A PLANT TO ROOT ROT SO FAR SO , ILL STICK TO MY GUNZ .

If your useing 5 gallon buckets like myslef , I use 3.25 gallons of water for the water level to sit just perfect 1 half inch under the 6 inch net pot , and when I mix my enzymes (SLF100 , Cyco Zyme ) I use full strenghth and with the (Hyperchlorours Acid 0.028% Clear Rez , UC Roots or Watermaxx) I dont mix full strength , I use 8ml per 3.25 gallons and its not added every week . Enzymes are added weekly during change out /flush .
I dont see the PH Perfect line becoming unstable useing a a small amount of pro plant hyperchlorous acid every two to three weeks to help sterilize the ryzosphere . But if you use pool shock in your resivor for feeding , its going to be a challange to find out exactly how to dose it . It may effect it useing pool shock.

Bucket change outs are also considered flushing weekly if you ask me , I do scrub my buckets with a small soultion of pool shock but thats for cleaning and after rinseing very very well the buckets are clean and the roots get a shower spray of water as well rinseing off there roots each week just to get what the enzymes missed or havent fully broken down yet . So really its a steril dwc grow method , that takes manhours and gives you better results then almost anyone can believe. Ive always gotten way over 2 lbs per light and one time hitting 3.5 lbs per light on 8 week veg from seed , so seedlings take two weeks to transition to the DWC , so really your getting 6 weeks of growth and 70 days of Flowering for 3.5lbs per light on a 7.5 lb run with 12 cultivars only one of them Soil in a Ten gallon for shits and giggles to prove that DWC was just as good of terps as soil organic and I always used the same Enzymes and HyperChlorousAcid Treatments AND NOW ADDING REGEN A ROOT FOR THE BEST COMBO IVE EVER HAD WITH MY RYZOSPHERE FOR VEG AND BLOOM , FULL SCHEDULE ALL THE WAY TO THE FLUSH .
Thanks again for another insightful reply. I've put a lot of thought into it and I've decided that running this WaterFarm DTW is the way to go. Adding 2 gallons of fresh nutes on a daily basis is a little more time consuming but I feel confident that the efforts will be worth it. I'll continue to use the Tarantula and Carboload but will probably switch to something else for the next run.
 
I thought Enzymes are a form benefial bacteria so doesnt the Hyperchlorous Acid kill them making it pointless adding both?
Im sure if the pool shock was added , for sure it would do harm , thats why I stress the professional plant ready mix Hyperchlorous that is used every two weeks or three weeks.

Ive used pool shock at a miniscoule level and used it to clean buckets , but rinseing hard and making sure its not in the mix.

I wish I knew more info on this off the top of the head. Research will eventully find it.
 
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MrGreenFingers99

Well-Known Member
Wrong...enzymes are not alive...they facilitate. Clearex etc help keep drip lines clean...but I see people using it in coco and other systems.
JD
Ah ok I am trying to learn! Just that I use Cannazym and it says not to use with hydrogen peroxide products but maybe Hyperchlorous Acid is not hydrogen peroxide and could be used alongside it??
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I wish I knew more info on this off the top of the head. Research will eventully find it.
and not to beat a dead horse, but hypochlorous acid is the byproduct of chlorine and water. so these "garden sellers" are simply taking an unbelievably cheap chemical, watering it down, putting a fancy label on it and marking it up astronomically. don't fall for it. rant over.
 
and not to beat a dead horse, but hypochlorous acid is the byproduct of chlorine and water. so these "garden sellers" are simply taking an unbelievably cheap chemical, watering it down, putting a fancy label on it and marking it up astronomically. don't fall for it. rant over.
10 dollars a Liter , it lasts me a long time plus I dont have to experiment on plants with pool shock . Alot of these other ducks in DWC are not getting results like I do , and they get root rot . Ive noticed that its not an issue here for me , but Ive been challanged on my methods before and never lost in real life. Beating dead horses is just like the reason why when humans die we research the dead body. I have handfulls of people that tag me in there Root Rescues , the keys to the root zone are in this post I promiss you . A little extra money goes a long way preventing issues man . Sitting on a large box of pool shock , so u feel better at saving a dollar , lol . Probley sitting on it as a seat while typing back online , lmao .

Slf 100 liter - 25 bucks
Hyperchlorous Acid Liter - 10 bucks
RegenARoot Liter -15 bucks
These bottles will last you 2 runs mabey more if you dont grow production.

They are made for plants and easy to use . Plus mixed professionaly .
 
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