Hydro setup

snoeman032

Well-Known Member
If you are using distilled you will need to reconstitute it. But you may not have to even use it. Google your local water report. Your local water likely contains adequate cal-mag and micro nutrients. So if you go 100% distilled you will need to add cal-mag and micro's like iron, manganese etc. Prob the best option if you have hard water is to mix it with R/O and not fully replace it (in my opinion).



I run at 68F you may need to buy a chiller to achieve this.


Great looking roots!!! Yeah some prefer sterile, I prefer to go with a bacteria but the 2 methods should not be mixed. There are reasons why some don't have success. I come from an aquatic background and have a lot of experience using beneficial bacteria to aid in growing aquatic plants. They are easily kept happy but can easily be killed off if you don't understand them. I mean personally i think the directions for hydrogaurd are made for marketing purposes and the culture of water changes in DWC would have to change in order to see more success. When you change out all the water at once you are destroying the environment and often killing off the beneficial bacteria then you need to re introduce them (aka buy more product) I think we are going to start seeing more and more use as hydro growers learn about it but I won't go on about it. 65-68F would definitely be a big reason for your success.

Bottom line if it works don't change it :) and you obviously are quite successful with what your doing.
So what kind of water would you recommend?maybe spring water from the store?
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
So would the smaller pump keep the water cooler or warmer?
They produce very minimal heat as they are very low wattage. The influence would come more from where the air is drawn from. Inside your tent with higher temps it may raise your water temp depending on volume 1-2F (This is an absolute guess on the amount). Airpump outside on the porch in winter at 40F will likely drop you temps.

So what kind of water would you recommend?maybe spring water from the store?
I would use tap if you can depending on water report i would mix tap and R/O.
 

snoeman032

Well-Known Member
They produce very minimal heat as they are very low wattage. The influence would come more from where the air is drawn from. Inside your tent with higher temps it may raise your water temp depending on volume 1-2F (This is an absolute guess on the amount). Airpump outside on the porch in winter at 40F will likely drop you temps.


I would use tap if you can depending on water report i would mix tap and R/O.
50/50 on the tap/distilled?
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
Not bad at all. I personally would go 50/50 if you already have an R/O unit but you could go straight tap. 50/50 gives you a little more breathing room and still will contain enough micro's that you shouldn't need to add anything other than regular nutes.

Just for reference if you bought your tds meter locally it should be 500ppm scale
 

snoeman032

Well-Known Member
Not bad at all. I personally would go 50/50 if you already have an R/O unit but you could go straight tap. 50/50 gives you a little more breathing room and still will contain enough micro's that you shouldn't need to add anything other than regular nutes.

Just for reference if you bought your tds meter locally it should be 500ppm scale
Thanks a lot man you’ve been lots of help
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
You will love the power of hydroponics, once you go hydro you won´t go back....
LMFAO!

Disagree.....

Hydro is faster. I'll give you that.

I can just about match hydro yields in soil so That's a push.

My soil (and even more so for the organic runs) will have more intense odor and flavor....Win for the soil.

Soil never needs to be pH'ed or adjusted.....Win for soil.

Soil is far more forgiving..... Win for soil.

I have zero water waste, as I don't have to dump and refill anything...(:

My nutrients don't deplete the already limited supply of the worlds P.........o_O

"I" can hook up my automatic watering system and take a vacation.......:P

Hydro, been there, did that.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Your not actually putting increased levels of DO into the water you are simply replenishing. The gas exchange happens at the surface from agitation so as long as you are getting decent surface agitation you are good to go. Most ppl think small bubbles will dissolve more O2 in the water as they rise. This is not true O2 is very hard to dissolve into water in relation to other gasses like Co2 so until some O2 is depleted your not likely to be adding much if any to the water. The reason smaller bubbles provide more gas exchange is the amount of surface agitation they provide. They are also gentler on the root systems. Either will be adequate but cooler water will provide a larger buffer to be honest the difference in water temp and size of air stone would probably have more impact as long as you have enough volume to run the airstone effectively.
Nice Post.

The deeper the stone and the more surface "boil" the more DO action you get.

I run 3 puck style stones in my water storage tanks - RO and for soil running.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Ok I was planning on trying a hydro setup but my question is if it’s sitting in a bucket of nute water when do you add more nutes? And If you ever change that water out?
Nobody has told you about the old school 33% rule?

A simple way to run a hydro system that is not thin film run to waste.... The idea that you have to dump and refill at some point is true. When has several answers and many "know it all's" saying things like "I never do. Just keep adding back." Yeah, sure - Don't try that!

You fill your res (DWC or RDWC or Flood) with your 100% strength nutrient mix of choice. You record how much that is.
As the res begins to lower, and you have to add back more,,,Add back a 33% nutrient solution!

Simple to make - Make a gallon of your 100% and add 2 gallons of water and pH this. You now have a 33% nutrient solution..

Use THIS 33% to add back to fill the res. Now as you keep filling the res back to your original "full" level. Keep a record of how much you add back. Once this add back amount reaches the same amount you used to fill the res. Don't add back, dump and refill that res with 100% nutrient solution and start the whole thing over again.

Same thing in bloom...This is an old school, tried and true method to do add backs and know when to dump and refill. The 33% is safe and won't burn or harm your plants. Simply adding back 100% solutions,,,,will in time.......Your not just dumping old nutrient when you dump but, waste material and compounds from the plant that can be seen by increasing ppm rates in the res.

As you gain experience. You can begin to play with your details to attempt to get more from your plant.... But, this works pretty damn good...

Please...Never use distilled water. NEVER EVER USE DISTILLED WATER TO POP BEANS!
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
Nobody has told you about the old school 33% rule?

A simple way to run a hydro system that is not thin film run to waste.... The idea that you have to dump and refill at some point is true. When has several answers and many "know it all's" saying things like "I never do. Just keep adding back." Yeah, sure - Don't try that!

You fill your res (DWC or RDWC or Flood) with your 100% strength nutrient mix of choice. You record how much that is.
As the res begins to lower, and you have to add back more,,,Add back a 33% nutrient solution!

Simple to make - Make a gallon of your 100% and add 2 gallons of water and pH this. You now have a 33% nutrient solution..

Use THIS 33% to add back to fill the res. Now as you keep filling the res back to your original "full" level. Keep a record of how much you add back. Once this add back amount reaches the same amount you used to fill the res. Don't add back, dump and refill that res with 100% nutrient solution and start the whole thing over again.

Same thing in bloom...This is an old school, tried and true method to do add backs and know when to dump and refill. The 33% is safe and won't burn or harm your plants. Simply adding back 100% solutions,,,,will in time.......Your not just dumping old nutrient when you dump but, waste material and compounds from the plant that can be seen by increasing ppm rates in the res.

As you gain experience. You can begin to play with your details to attempt to get more from your plant.... But, this works pretty damn good...

Please...Never use distilled water. NEVER EVER USE DISTILLED WATER TO POP BEANS!
Good info for a starting point, best used with a sterile method, I have never tried this but it has merit, is simple and works.

I use my own method for RDWC and i think its far superior to what is common place in hydro at this time and extremely simple as well as fool proof but does benefit from some extra equipment and requires more testing and adjusting.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Good info for a starting point, best used with a sterile method, I have never tried this but it has merit, is simple and works.

I use my own method for RDWC and i think its far superior to what is common place in hydro at this time and extremely simple as well as fool proof but does benefit from some extra equipment and requires more testing and adjusting.

It works for RDWC.... But, RDWC is started at what? About half the normal concentrations ratio wise..... You are right, it is more demanding to learn but, I feel the pay off is better then the others too.
If I was to go back to hydro. It would be RDWC and starting at my old RDWC notes too... Not going to happen at my age though...

You post well, very well! Welcome to RIU! :hug:
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
It works for RDWC.... But, RDWC is started at what? About half the normal concentrations ratio wise..... You are right, it is more demanding to learn but, I feel the pay off is better then the others too.
If I was to go back to hydro. It would be RDWC and starting at my old RDWC notes too... Not going to happen at my age though...

You post well, very well! Welcome to RIU! :hug:
Thanks for the compliment. I can already tell there are a few things you could teach this guy. You seen very knowledgeable and looking forward to future discussions.
 

RStone77

Active Member
I mostly grow with soil, but I get my Kratky on sometimes. If I'm going to have a busy work quarter, I'll drop half my plants in a Kratky setup since I can go a month without screwing with them. I go with a single 5 gallon bucket per plant - no "cannabis" marketed nutes .. just a little master blend, calcium nitrate and epsom salt. Things shoot up like a rocket when you go hydro.

Personally, I think hydro is easier than soil ... but I enjoy growing in soil more.
 

RStone77

Active Member
I don't change my res in rdwc or dwc, I almost let the plants drink it all and then top up with fresh nute mix .
Yeah, I basically do the same with Kratky. Never had any issues - plants keep drinking/feeding until there's nothing left. Personally, I never understood why people were swapping their nutrient water out every week. I think people just like shit to do LOL
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I basically do the same with Kratky. Never had any issues - plants keep drinking/feeding until there's nothing left. Personally, I never understood why people were swapping their nutrient water out every week. I think people just like shit to do LOL
Because your nutrient ratios change over time and you end up with excess salt and an imbalance of nutrients. Unless your plant is taking up nutrients in the exact ratio that your ferts are composed of it's not a matter of if but when before you see the effects of this imbalance and salt build up. If you can get through a whole grow without doing so I'm impressed.

You can test TDS and PPM but you have no idea what nutrients are left making up that PPM after your plants started feeding.
 
Top