Hpa pump life AQUATEC CDP 8800 high flow booster pump

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dalack

Member
I bought a AQUATEC CDP 8800 high flow booster pump to run a hpa setup.
If a hpa only runs every 5 minutes for 5 seconds why is a accumulator recommended?
That doesn't seem like it would be taxing for this pump.
The pump is only a hundred bucks and if I can get a grow out of one it would be worth it to me replacing it every grow.
It seems like a lot easier than dealing with solenoids and accumulators.

Thanks for your help
David
 
redi jedi

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
dalack said:
I bought a AQUATEC CDP 8800 high flow booster pump to run a hpa setup.
If a hpa only runs every 5 minutes for 5 seconds why is a accumulator recommended?
That doesn't seem like it would be taxing for this pump.
The pump is only a hundred bucks and if I can get a grow out of one it would be worth it to me replacing it every grow.
It seems like a lot easier than dealing with solenoids and accumulators.

Thanks for your help
David
Click to expand...
The accumulator provides instant pressure at the nozzles, no delay as the pump builds pressure. You can also mist via the accumulator alone and then you're only running the pump to refill the accumulator.
 
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PhatNuggz

Well-Known Member
I briefly jumped into HPA about 8 years ago

In spite of the criticisms from purists, I used an 8800, but did not want to get into the complexity of an accumulator, solenoids... Blasphemy! I ran several grows with no 8800 issues

I compensated for the lack of instant pressure by raising my rez higher than the pump, which kept the feed lines from draining between mists

As I recall, feed cycles were more like 3 seconds on and 3 minutes off, but with an accumulator and solenoids, the on cycle could be ONE second on and ONE minute off. I was using a Sentinel digital timer, but it was not accurate to 1 second.

Still, I had amazing root balls that looked like fluffy cotton candy, well, at least when the room temp and RH was cool, which where I live is only ~ 4months a year. Not realizing that at the time, when the weather turned hot I was unable to maintain the fluffy root balls. So I exited HPA, and tried a variety of hydro methods. I find Flood and Drain the easiest, and most forgiving, by far

hth
 
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dalack

Member
Thanks for the great info and quick reply. I'm using dwc right now and am having issues with root rot so I was recently looking into flood and drain. Looks much easier and less chance of root rot? How does growth and yields of flood and drain compare to dwc in your opinion? If close or equal sounds like a fool proof system with less downside and a no brainer. I'm limited to 6 plants but have a 9x9 space and want to maximize yield and quality.
I was looking at a design something like this and possibly transferring my dwc net pots into it to save them from root rot. Do you think thats possible or should I wait till next cycle?

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I'd like to try a couple plants with hpa to see if there's any real world benefit of growth. Better rootballs are nice but what is the end results in terms of growth, yield and quality?

Btw, can you point me in the direction of what hpa nozzles you used.

Best

David
 
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redi jedi

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
If your having problems with rot I'd say flood and drain would be a better option for you. But you could still have the same problem in that system too, less likely though IMO.

Have you tried any preventative measures for rot? Its much easier than dealing with an outbreak.

Personally I dont think the hassle and setup cost of HPA is worth it.
 
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
PhatNuggz said:
I briefly jumped into HPA about 8 years ago

In spite of the criticisms from purists, I used an 8800, but did not want to get into the complexity of an accumulator, solenoids... Blasphemy! I ran several grows with no 8800 issues

I compensated for the lack of instant pressure by raising my rez higher than the pump, which kept the feed lines from draining between mists

As I recall, feed cycles were more like 3 seconds on and 3 minutes off, but with an accumulator and solenoids, the on cycle could be ONE second on and ONE minute off. I was using a Sentinel digital timer, but it was not accurate to 1 second.

Still, I had amazing root balls that looked like fluffy cotton candy, well, at least when the room temp and RH was cool, which where I live is only ~ 4months a year. Not realizing that at the time, when the weather turned hot I was unable to maintain the fluffy root balls. So I exited HPA, and tried a variety of hydro methods. I find Flood and Drain the easiest, and most forgiving, by far

hth
Click to expand...
No you didn't

Your plants look like this:

IMG_4810.JPGIMG_4811.JPGIMG_4812.JPG


Do not listen to any "advice" from this person. They absolutely do not know what they are speaking about.
 
P

PhatNuggz

Well-Known Member
I was having a most difficult time figuring out why I kept having root rot. None of the self professed gurus could figure it out, but felt compelled to either offer bad advice or just criticize, like Dstroy, who apparently hasn't kept current to know that finally I figured it out. Quite simple really.

About 5 grows back, I was thinking that I could incorporate the short burst feed cycles with HPA into my F & D, BUT I was flooding into the starter cubes every hour (instead of every 4 hours), which meant the starter cubes never dried out, which caused RR!

I then started the SWC (shallow water culture: 2 gallons) grow that Dstroy posted, but incorporated a experimental method of my own genius, to both circulate the nutes while structuring the solution (it's a thing. Look it up). BUT, I drilled holes all the way around and used too potent of a pump (260 gph) so the solution was spraying up like a high power sprinkler, also soaking the starter cubes. I solved that problem by replacing the plastic bottle and only drilled holes that would be BELOW the water line and replaced the 260 gph pump with an 80 gph pump. I circulate 3 minute/hour, which means the solution is circulating through the bottle ~ 3xs per cycle . I am also using a 4 head air pump as a backup, but probably don't it. I'll see next grow

Here are the same plants that Dstroy posted as of yesterday. That is the old bottle. Inside are marbles and plytonic solids (look it up).

WINNING

Awaiting Dstroy's apology, but not going to hold my breath

001.JPG004.JPG003.JPG
 
Last edited:
dstroy

dstroy

Well-Known Member
PhatNuggz said:
I was having a most difficult time figuring out why I kept having root rot. None of the self professed gurus could figure it out, but felt compelled to either offer bad advice or just criticize, like Dstroy, who apparently hasn't kept current to know that finally I figured it out. Quite simple really.

About 5 grows back, I was thinking that I could incorporate the short burst feed cycles with HPA into my F & D, BUT I was flooding into the starter cubes every hour (instead of every 4 hours), which meant the starter cubes never dried out, which caused RR!

I then started the SWC (shallow water culture: 2 gallons) grow that Dstroy posted, but incorporated a experimental method of my own genius, to both circulate the nutes while structuring the solution (it's a thing. Look it up). BUT, I drilled holes all the way around and used too potent of a pump (260 gph) so the solution was spraying up like a high power sprinkler, also soaking the starter cubes. I solved that problem by replacing the plastic bottle and only drilled holes that would be BELOW the water line and replaced the 260 gph pump with an 80 gph pump. I circulate 3 minute/hour, which means the solution is circulating through the bottle ~ 3xs per cycle . I am also using a 4 head air pump as a backup, but probably don't it. I'll see next grow

Here are the same plants that Dstroy posted as of yesterday. That is the old bottle. Inside are marbles and plytonic solids (look it up).

WINNING

Awaiting Dstroy's apology, but not going to hold my breath

View attachment 4440659View attachment 4440660View attachment 4440661
Click to expand...
That plant looks like shit
 
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