How to reused organic soil

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Start by adding compost, namely worm castings. That’s like the most important ingredient and the most overlooked. Then you’ll want to be sure you have some mineral inputs. Lots of options but if I was stranded on an island with only a few mineral inputs I would want to have on hand dolomite lime, crushed oyster shell, and garden gypsum. Thirdly you’ll want to add forms of fertilizer. Again there’s way too many to list but using the desert island analogy I would aquire blood meal, kelp meal, and fish bone meal along with some composted chicken and/or cow manure. About as basic as you can get.
Optionally and especially if it is the first time you are amending a previously bagged soil you can amend with more exotic minerals like soft rock phosphate, and glacial rock dust or basalt. These break down and release so slowly that amending with them each time is sort of like overkill. One time is enough to last for a year or more.
Optional fertilizer amendments that are worth acquiring are insect frass and neem seed meal. Frass has a very high value NPK for a small amount, & a little goes a long way. Neem is not only good N it can help deter leaf munchers like thrips when amended to the soil.
You want to add lots of things in small amounts. Diversity is almost more important than quantities. You do not have to be deadly accurate with ratios or amounts but try to choose one measure for consistency... let’s say something like 1/2 cup of each amendment for 30-40 gal of soil. I use handfuls; the amount I can grab without it falling through my fingers. The exceptions are compost and fertilizers like manure. You can put up to 1/3 of your mix as compost but that will probably make it real heavy so then you’ll want to add coco, perlite, vermiculite, and/or more base soil to lighten it up and reduce compaction. Some fertilizers are hotter than others so you’ll need to amend accordingly. Pay attention to npk values.
Once you have what you need dump the soil you want to recycle into a tote bin or similar vessel and toss it all in there. Turn it over with a shovel and be sure it is well hydrated. Let it set for 30 days “cook time” to normalize ph. Should be ready to use after a month. While it’s cooking you can give compost teas or even the sludge left over from brewing them to the recycling soil to maintain microbial activity but this is also optional.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Start by adding compost, namely worm castings. That’s like the most important ingredient and the most overlooked. Then you’ll want to be sure you have some mineral inputs. Lots of options but if I was stranded on an island with only a few mineral inputs I would want to have on hand dolomite lime, crushed oyster shell, and garden gypsum. Thirdly you’ll want to add forms of fertilizer. Again there’s way too many to list but using the desert island analogy I would aquire blood meal, kelp meal, and fish bone meal along with some composted chicken and/or cow manure. About as basic as you can get.
Optionally and especially if it is the first time you are amending a previously bagged soil you can amend with more exotic minerals like soft rock phosphate, and glacial rock dust or basalt. These break down and release so slowly that amending with them each time is sort of like overkill. One time is enough to last for a year or more.
Optional fertilizer amendments that are worth acquiring are insect frass and neem seed meal. Frass has a very high value NPK for a small amount, & a little goes a long way. Neem is not only good N it can help deter leaf munchers like thrips when amended to the soil.
You want to add lots of things in small amounts. Diversity is almost more important than quantities. You do not have to be deadly accurate with ratios or amounts but try to choose one measure for consistency... let’s say something like 1/2 cup of each amendment for 30-40 gal of soil. I use handfuls; the amount I can grab without it falling through my fingers. The exceptions are compost and fertilizers like manure. You can put up to 1/3 of your mix as compost but that will probably make it real heavy so then you’ll want to add coco, perlite, vermiculite, and/or more base soil to lighten it up and reduce compaction. Some fertilizers are hotter than others so you’ll need to amend accordingly. Pay attention to npk values.
Once you have what you need dump the soil you want to recycle into a tote bin or similar vessel and toss it all in there. Turn it over with a shovel and be sure it is well hydrated. Let it set for 30 days “cook time” to normalize ph. Should be ready to use after a month. While it’s cooking you can give compost teas or even the sludge left over from brewing them to the recycling soil to maintain microbial activity but this is also optional.
Good advice as usual, just wondering why you never recommend pumice or lava rock?
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I use a simple amendment of lobster kelp dry fert, b$$gie brew dry, not as tea, and b$$gie black. Hate plugging a brand. I love it.

Local backyard hardwood compost is the ultimate organic rebuff.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I can only assume it's not red??
LMAO. Smile. We all could use one.
I'm guessing you're talking about the lava rock. I use this, but it's not cheap.

I use more pumice though since it's a little cheaper. Both sizes.

I also mix a little of either in with the EWC or compost when I top dress.

You can get $5 off going through this link in case someone want to order from them. It only works if you don't already have an account though.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I'm guessing you're talking about the lava rock. I use this, but it's not cheap.

I use more pumice though since it's a little cheaper. Both sizes.

I also mix a little of either in with the EWC or compost when I top dress.

You can get $5 off going through this link in case someone want to order from them. It only works if you don't already have an account though.
$1/bag at wallyworld for natural grey. Beat it to 3/8" or smaller in a container wearing gloves and safety glasses. Way cheap and easy.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
I'm guessing you're talking about the lava rock. I use this, but it's not cheap.

I use more pumice though since it's a little cheaper. Both sizes.

I also mix a little of either in with the EWC or compost when I top dress.

You can get $5 off going through this link in case someone want to order from them. It only works if you don't already have an account though.
If your lava rock is actually feeding something it is due to contamination. Think about that a moment.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Show me the link.
What I paid last fall. Honest. I saw my local store was loading outdoor section in shipping containers in the parking lot today. Just plain lava rock.

And lava rock is inert. No nutritional value. Went to med coco-coire. Better aeration and nute stability.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
What I paid last fall. Honest. I saw my local store was loading outdoor section in shipping containers in the parking lot today. Just plain lava rock.

And lava rock is inert. No nutritional value. Went to med coco-coire. Better aeration and nute stability.
If you don't have a link, it didn't happen.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Only cause I'm bored. Do you have a link to that in action? Curious how $'s per pound lava is better than pennies per pound. Not that I foolishly use anymore. Actually the petunia plants drain well with it. But enlighten me to the over priced world of I honestly dont know. LMAO.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Only cause I'm bored. Do you have a link to that in action? Curious how $'s per pound lava is better than pennies per pound. Not that I foolishly use anymore. Actually the petunia plants drain well with it. But enlighten me to the over priced world of I honestly dont know. LMAO.
The black lava rock is actually $.80 per # if you buy the small bags. But I might need to put you back on the ignore list. You're not helping the OP, and neither am I at this point.
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
The black lava rock is actually $.80 per # if you buy the small bags. But I might need to put you back on the ignore list. You're not helping the OP, and neither am I at this point.
I'm helping. Avoid lava rock and sales pitches. Gave an easy proven fix. You gave what? Block yourself from corrupting any further grows. If you have a link it is because you lack the experience. Needed a link. I saw it on the net. First opinion I would chose. Then a flashy sales pop up? Ha Ha.

My sincerest apologies to the op. What is your medium and water supply. It matters to start. Then not so much unless tweeking nute uptake. Apologies again.
 
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