GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
I've got extra space now 
I like it, but I'm going to use only white coat hangers next time
I like it, but I'm going to use only white coat hangers next time
How to push out sucked in mylar tent walls?
- Thread starter GreenLogician
- Start date
Candybeast
Active Member
I'm saying how did you apply it?
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
I've propped open my bottom duct intakes for a large passive intake, and:
I zip tied the 'arms' of these structures (that I bent the coat hangers into) onto the corner bars of my 80x80cm tent, at canopy height
On one wall I put two at different heights, works even better.
I zip tied the 'arms' of these structures (that I bent the coat hangers into) onto the corner bars of my 80x80cm tent, at canopy height
On one wall I put two at different heights, works even better.
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Candybeast
Active Member
Nice... whatever works.so you keep the screen open for an intake? Do you have an intake fan?
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
O's are zip ties attaching it to the back left vertical corner pole,
X's are zip ties attaching it to the back right vertical corner pole.
X's are zip ties attaching it to the back right vertical corner pole.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Coat hangers are magical devices. Sooooooo many uses.Yes Antonios88! If your tent is about the same size as mine, coat hangers. Coat hangers coat hangers coat hangers.
Bamboo, pvc, string and all that have been suggested as bracing, but that will only go straight from pole to pole.
It will only restore sucked in walls to flat walls, although you could do it on a tent any size.
Mine is 80cm x 80cm, which is perfect for coat hangers.
With coat hangers, They can actually bend out, pushing the walls out and giving EXTRA room, as if you had a positive pressure system in there blowing the walls out.
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
No I don't use an intake fan.
I use both the screen flaps built in for passive, plus some short duct with open ends, propping open the bottom duct ports. (Bent around cleverly to prevent light leaks)
I use both the screen flaps built in for passive, plus some short duct with open ends, propping open the bottom duct ports. (Bent around cleverly to prevent light leaks)
Candybeast
Active Member
What do you do when your not home and the flaps are open. From how I see it those are only meant for viewports. Not designed for a light proof ventilation system.ive dictated mine closed.i don't trust Velcro.
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
Ya that would be a problem, the flaps hang on the inside for me and I let them ride free all the time.
But I've been clever with placing my tent in the corner. It has a dark half foot of space between it and the wall, behind it and on its right.
For the left screen, I've got my computer, desk and curtain almost up against it, and taped some cardboard and paper towel as as a shade to it only opens to the dark corner down behind my computer.
I've created dark zones outside the flaps
But I've been clever with placing my tent in the corner. It has a dark half foot of space between it and the wall, behind it and on its right.
For the left screen, I've got my computer, desk and curtain almost up against it, and taped some cardboard and paper towel as as a shade to it only opens to the dark corner down behind my computer.
I've created dark zones outside the flaps
Candybeast
Active Member
Get one fan.for 70$ and eliminate the need for all of those opening and dark zones. I have found that having the right equipment makes all the difference. I say this because I have done all the same things you have . And they worked. But where a pain in the ass. I used to have whirly birds on tips of a wooden grow box with bathroom fans. And 150w HPS,2 of em . My point is I wasted alot of time on diy solutions. But cardboard and duct tape with only get you so far. Not trying to knock ya. Just friendly advice.
hey guys,I'm also having this problem,and I've tried everything above,
extra intake,bamboo from pole to pole.even the hanger idea,its all to weak,
i have a 1.2m and i am not getting the space of a 1.2m,its more like a 1m.my plants are getting squashed and creating mould.
this is a big problem. HELLPPPP!!!!!!
extra intake,bamboo from pole to pole.even the hanger idea,its all to weak,
i have a 1.2m and i am not getting the space of a 1.2m,its more like a 1m.my plants are getting squashed and creating mould.
this is a big problem. HELLPPPP!!!!!!
Candybeast
Active Member
Get a new tent. Or rewrap the existing frame with panda paper
bamboofarmer
Well-Known Member
I like to create positive pressure in my tent which makes the sides balloon outward. Keeps things cleaner inside the tent too.
bamboofarmer
Well-Known Member
Use an active intake and passive exhaust. Adjust the exhaust so it allows slightly less air out than the air which is coming in. That way the tent will push outward instead of sucking inward.
Antgotaclue
Well-Known Member
I to have the same problem an I do have an intake but the intake fan don't run at same speed if ya will so gonna swap them about next time I'm at my tent
Antgotaclue
Well-Known Member
This is my intake
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Chef420
Well-Known Member
I have a Secret Jardin 3x3 and it came with 3x3' bars and ends to hang stuff. I'm only using one to hang my 600 hid light. I used some 1/2" neoprene that came as packing material for an office chair to fashion pole clips to hold the bar in place. It's also easy to remove and/or adjust.
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If you're pushing walls out you're also pushing stink out. If that's a concern for youI've got a sweet exhaust fan, with a built-in dimmer. The 'hyperfan'.
Lowering exhaust speed does help reduce wall suck-in, but there's a limit to how low I can take it in the summer.
And I'd still like to aim for pushing those walls out for extra space
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
Agreed, Bamboofarmer and Antgotaclue above recommended an active intake and passive exhaust to push out walls, but the downside to that is air coming uncontrolled out of all the leaks in your room. It's not appropriate if you want to control your smell, like using a carbon filter.
I push my walls out physically, with concave bracing, not with positive air pressure
I push my walls out physically, with concave bracing, not with positive air pressure
r.i.kid
Well-Known Member
yard sticks....bend and are sturdy ...if you're still is school steal someAgreed, Bamboofarmer and Antgotaclue above recommended an active intake and passive exhaust to push out walls, but the downside to that is air coming uncontrolled out of all the leaks in your room. It's not appropriate if you want to control your smell, like using a carbon filter.
I push my walls out physically, with concave bracing, not with positive air pressure
