How to have grow rooms wired to handle more electricity

JSB99

Well-Known Member
I always just think of the 2 as 120 and the 3 as 240. Lots of inaccurate stuff here. I wouldn't even bother with 14 gauge or 15 amp on this kind of project.
14/2 romex is standard for 120v and 12/2 is standard for 240v.

14/2 and 12/2: hot (black wire), neutral (white wire), ground (bare wire)
14/3 and 12/3: hot (black wire), hot (red wire), neutral (white wire), ground (bare wire)
 

GrowUrOwnDank

Well-Known Member
14/2 romex is standard for 120v and 12/2 is standard for 240v.

14/2 and 12/2: hot (black wire), neutral (white wire), ground (bare wire)
14/3 and 12/3: hot (black wire), hot (red wire), neutral (white wire), ground (bare wire)
That's bullshit. 2 means you got 2 wires for 120. 3 means ya got 3 wires for 240. The other wire is a ground. I won't elaborate because your too stupid to get it.
 

GrowUrOwnDank

Well-Known Member
That's bullshit. 2 means you got 2 wires for 120. 3 means ya got 3 wires for 240. The other wire is a ground. I won't elaborate because your too stupid to get it.
I'm out of this whole wiring thing. Yall are too stupid to get it period. Lay off the smoke for a minute and get some education.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
That's bullshit. 2 means you got 2 wires for 120. 3 means ya got 3 wires for 240. The other wire is a ground. I won't elaborate because your too stupid to get it.
Thanks for the insult.

14/3 (120v using 14 gauge wires and has the extra red for hot) is used when you have a switched receptacle on a split circuit for controlling something like multiple light switches to control a single set of lights.

12/3 has the extra hot (red wire). Modern dryers use this for instance. 12/2 is what I said, hot, neutral, and ground. Same as 14/2 but with 12 gauge wires.
 

GrowUrOwnDank

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the insult.

14/3 is used when you have a switched receptacle on a split circuit for controlling something like multiple light switches to control a single set of lights.

12/3 has the extra hot (red wire). Modern dryers use this for instance. 12/2 is what I said, hot, neutral, and ground. Same as 14/2 but with 12 gauge wires.
That too dumbass. Whatever. Man I'm so sick
of this bullshit but at least ya got something right. Sometimes you use 3 for other things.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
That too dumbass. Whatever. Man I'm so sick
of this bullshit but at least ya got something right. Sometimes you use 3 for other things.
WTF...
12/2 and 14/2 is when you need two conductors plus ground. 12/3 and 14/3 is when you need three conductors plus ground. The only difference is the gauge.

For three-prong outlets (which 240v ballasts use), you would use 12/2.
 

GrowUrOwnDank

Well-Known Member
14/2 romex is standard for 120v and 12/2 is standard for 240v.

14/2 and 12/2: hot (black wire), neutral (white wire), ground (bare wire)
14/3 and 12/3: hot (black wire), hot (red wire), neutral (white wire), ground (bare wire)
12/2 is not standard for 240 volt.
WTF...
12/2 and 14/2 is when you need two conductors plus ground. 12/3 and 14/3 is when you need three conductors plus ground. The only difference is the gauge.

For three-prong outlets (which 240v ballasts use), you would use 12/2.
Study.
 

HayStax

Active Member
No man, if you are running your dryer or stove off of 12/3 be on the look out for a fire, in NO case should either of those appliances be powered with 12 ga wire. That's bad. But what you can do is look in your code book that you definitely have if your doing electrical work right?...lol in there and after cross referencing 2 charts and examining the specifics in the code that may pertain to your room (I.e., bathroom, kitchen, garage, etc. ) then you can determine the proper size cable for your application. Wire size is way more about amperage than voltage, but like growurowndank said, im scared to say too much. I wouldnt want anyone talking my advice and killing themselves. I'd be scared for anyone to be doing work without already knowing this info. Try mikeholt.com for electrical forums and info, but they'll say the same thing, except way harsher, higher an effing contractor. JSB, thanks for the "like" on my post before, but I'm sorry, please have your work inspected by a licensed person. Your missing some key understanding of electricity.
Peace.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
No man, if you are running your dryer or stove off of 12/3 be on the look out for a fire, in NO case should either of those appliances be powered with 12 ga wire. That's bad. But what you can do is look in your code book that you definitely have if your doing electrical work right?...lol in there and after cross referencing 2 charts and examining the specifics in the code that may pertain to your room (I.e., bathroom, kitchen, garage, etc. ) then you can determine the proper size cable for your application. Wire size is way more about amperage than voltage, but like growurowndank said, im scared to say too much. I wouldnt want anyone talking my advice and killing themselves. I'd be scared for anyone to be doing work without already knowing this info. Try mikeholt.com for electrical forums and info, but they'll say the same thing, except way harsher, higher an effing contractor. JSB, thanks for the "like" on my post before, but I'm sorry, please have your work inspected by a licensed person. Your missing some key understanding of electricity.
Peace.
Understood
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
I just had to make an extension cord for my welder, it's a 220V 230A model. I had some 10/3 romex left over from wiring my 240V outlets for lights. Would it have worked?..yeah probably, I still went out and bought 10/2 SOOW cable. Right tool for the job...
 

HayStax

Active Member
It might cost $30 more for 100' of 10/2 romex than 12/2. Pretty cheap insurance to exceed your amperage need instead of cutting it close. Same goes for GFI vs standard outlets.
Are there are many instances when, 10/2 is not appropriate either, paying contractors is cheap insurance. You lose a 300000 dollar home because you wanted to save cash and run 10/2 yourself because you heard it was extra insurance on a forum, but the the house burns down because you should have run 6Ga because it's 300 ft away and your running a welder and a hot tub at the other end, and your homeowners won't cover it because you didn't pull a permit, or install to code....that sounds like shot insurance. I definitely think your better off paying a contractor a few hundred extra, so then when there is a real problem, his 2 million of liability will cover your losses. It relatively straight forward math.
 

Cowboy Kahlil

Well-Known Member
I get that part, HayStax. I was trying to simplify by pointing out that material cost differences are very small overall. As to the math and the skills to do it right, or what an insurance company will cover, sure, those are key considerations as well.
 

mikeykrinshaw12

Well-Known Member
Are there are many instances when, 10/2 is not appropriate either, paying contractors is cheap insurance. You lose a 300000 dollar home because you wanted to save cash and run 10/2 yourself because you heard it was extra insurance on a forum, but the the house burns down because you should have run 6Ga because it's 300 ft away and your running a welder and a hot tub at the other end, and your homeowners won't cover it because you didn't pull a permit, or install to code....that sounds like shot insurance. I definitely think your better off paying a contractor a few hundred extra, so then when there is a real problem, his 2 million of liability will cover your losses. It relatively straight forward math.
Lol, :) - This is a perfect example of- If you dont understand how it works dont mess with it.

Your logic is only flawed when it comes to using the receptacles for grow op equipment- that is specifically struck out by the not "manufacturing" clause that is fairly common in most homeowners insurance agreements- or otherwise as a "illegal activity" and wont pay out.

It's not about the money. It's about the lives of people. say if no one lived through the fire, no worries about insurance coverage then right?

If you don't know what it is dont touch it. If you don't know how it works don't mess with it. hmmmmm isnt that what you gotta tell 5-7 yr olds over n over lol.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
Isn't there a real good chance insurance isn't going to pay out if they find out you were growing, even if it was done to code, even in a med state? All they have to do is say you were breaking federal law, too bad so sad...
 

HayStax

Active Member
I get that part, HayStax. I was trying to simplify by pointing out that material cost differences are very small overall. As to the math and the skills to do it right, or what an insurance company will cover, sure, those are key considerations as well.
I'm just saying for your sake just be careful about how people might interpret what you say, I know how dramatic it sounds, and I'm not trying to rag you, but it's just that way. You would want a rando

My logic is not flawed, this is a forum, which is my point, decades of training, and experience can not be written into a forum post, don't be silly, and don't try to quibble, if you want to act like I don't know exactly what I'm talking about when it comes to electricity that's fine, there's probably people on the forums who think Sir Edmond Hillary caused America's obesity problem too. Your flawed by assuming you can paint a compete picture of my logic from a few sentences written on the web. Be real.
 

mikeykrinshaw12

Well-Known Member
I'm just saying for your sake just be careful about how people might interpret what you say, I know how dramatic it sounds, and I'm not trying to rag you, but it's just that way. You would want a rando

My logic is not flawed, this is a forum, which is my point, decades of training, and experience can not be written into a forum post, don't be silly, and don't try to quibble, if you want to act like I don't know exactly what I'm talking about when it comes to electricity that's fine, there's probably people on the forums who think Sir Edmond Hillary caused America's obesity problem too. Your flawed by assuming you can paint a compete picture of my logic from a few sentences written on the web. Be real.
I am being real- your logic is flawed- Weed freak 78 made/reiterated my point as well. There was no belittlement in my comment only support for what you were saying. Now- be real and read it for what it says.

Which was- Basically I agree, but insurance companies aren't going to pay out on electrical fires caused by, or in proximity to grow op equipment.

Didn't say a damn thing about your electrical knowledge or ability at all. AT ALL. Decades of training might need you to go back to secondary school and work on your reading comprehension and literacy. Your logic was terribly pictured (captured by words), but to anyone understanding the situation and your point it was easy to read and get your point. You want to quibble? Argue over syntax and logic? No point- just go back and read it for what it says, not for what your sensitivity level ascribes for you.
 

Cowboy Kahlil

Well-Known Member
For legal grows in at least one of the legal grow states, there is Cannasurance and MMDinsurance, but otherwise, it's pretty certain the insurance carriers will smack you down.
 
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