How hard is it to DIY install a mini split ac?

kerdiggz

Active Member
I'm ready to upgrade my ac in my 10 x 10 grow room running 5k of vertical bare bulbs. But, I don't really want an hvac/electrician near my grow

So, my question is how hard is to DIY install a 2 ton mini split? I would like to buy a quick connect mini split to avoid having to vacuum the lines. My main concern would be running the electrical line and adding a new breaker and disconnect for the unit. how difficult is it to do? I'm no electrician, but have done simple electrical before like wiring ceiling fan, motion sensors, garbage disposal, etc. but nothing this complicated. any help is appreciated
 

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
It’s easy. But the DIY kits , IMO are not as good as one installed by a tech.
I did all the work, n had a tech come and charge the system. This is done outside.
The electrical isn’t hard.

I would get a bigger (3ton) dual unit for a 10x10.
If I could do it again, I wouldn’t have cheaped out , and would have got the Mitsubishi.
 

olekingkole

Active Member
I've installed 2 Ramsond DIY units myself that are still working after 5 years. I even ran the electrical circuits.
The hardest parts were drilling holes through the walls of my metal building and lugging the outside units into place. The 24,000 BTU units weigh over a hundred pounds so you might need assistance positioning them. You should be able to run the new circuits. Just turn off the power when you go into the box! Yes, some of the most efficient units don't come pre-charged, so you will need a tech for for them . My Ramsond units may not be the most efficient but they came pre-charged and after a couple years I topped them off using a kit I bought off Ebay for about $60.
 

kerdiggz

Active Member
Thanks for the input.

I do agree that the pre charged units are less effient averaging 16 seer vs the ones that need a tech averaging 20+ seer. But, I may just opt for the pre charged units to avoid having a tech near my grow just to be on the safe side
 

linky

Well-Known Member
Get a vacuum pump, gauges and nitrogen tank and its pretty easy to install, have done 3 myself so far.. no leaks and working great after 2+ years. The electrical is easy if you are at all familiar with electrical work/installing breakers etc. I have 3 mini split heatpumps all from homealpineair, no issues with any of them.. just get a low ambient cooling unit though so it will cool when below ~60F outside.
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
Yes, they aren’t hard to install. Just getting the tools needed is the task. You don’t need a 3 ton system for a 10x10! I’m a contractor! I know. Spend the money and buy an inverter style mini..... they will ramp up &down. Constantly removing humidity. Run the fan on high ALL the time.... that keeps the mildew from growing on the wheel.
My 2 educated pennies
 

FOL

Member
We installed 2 DIY kits in our new building. The lines come pre charged with refrigerant, and there is no need for vacuum pumps, or special tools. Literally plug and play.

Made by MrCOOL they are wifi controllable 24K BTU 16 seer heat pumps, so they also remove humidity from the air.
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
We installed 2 DIY kits in our new building. The lines come pre charged with refrigerant, and there is no need for vacuum pumps, or special tools. Literally plug and play.

Made by MrCOOL they are wifi controllable 24K BTU 16 seer heat pumps, so they also remove humidity from the air.
Well of course they will remove humidity if it’s an air conditioner as long as it is sized properly
If it’s too big it will cool the area but it will not remove the humidity because it will not run long enough to do so
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
I use different day and night temps from week 5 they week 10.5 (I run 64 day runs at minimum). I currently piggyback my ac to a light controller, trigger cord plugged into my master greenhouse controller so theres NO amp draw on the master greenhouse controller.
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
They make precharged linesets.

As mentioned nothing beats a professional install and the brands that offer DIY kits aren't reputable brands

You'd need specialty tools though like pumps, vacuum pumps, nitrogen tanks, refrigerant tanks, pressure gauges.

All you need is ACR tubing and a flare tool for the piping, but you'd want to pressure test it with nitrogen and then purge the nitrogen from the lines. Then you need someone to run power wiring to the evaporator and condenser and then low voltage control wiring from the condenser to the evaporator and from the evaporator to the thermostat

I work for a Mechanical Contractor
 
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Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
I agree. 3 tons. I have 1 ton per 2k lighting bare bulb . To say 3 tons is not necessary is not true. It will run all the time with 2 tons of cooling. You want it to turn off not run constantly. And you need to take into consideration ambient temperature, ballasts if they are in the room, dehumidifier puts out heat , ac eliminates some humidity not all and you want separate control over humidity level, insulation, if you have co2 burner et , etc etc. You ALWAYS oversize cooling I learned the hard way. You want 5-6k btu minimum per 1000 watt light on air cooled. And you will save energy oversize ur cooling system. 2.5 min so up it to 3. Why chance it. And those numbers are based off my climate Massachusetts, so without knowing ur climate, how well insulated the room is and tons of other variables no one even a contractor no disrespect can say you don't need 3 tons , and that's including myself even not knowing everything to say how much you need but 3 tons is on the safe side and you will save energy by oversize the unit
Go ahead and install 3 tons, not my advice. And yes if you purchase an inverted mini it should run ALL THE TIME.... that is where you get the climate control. No ups no downs .... always on keeping the room at a constant temp.
And no I haven’t ran a cooling or heating load for the member. But no worries no disrespect taken bro.
Grower, tech and contractor
 

Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
I agree. 3 tons. I have 1 ton per 2k lighting bare bulb . To say 3 tons is not necessary is not true. It will run all the time with 2 tons of cooling. You want it to turn off not run constantly. And you need to take into consideration ambient temperature, ballasts if they are in the room, dehumidifier puts out heat , ac eliminates some humidity not all and you want separate control over humidity level, insulation, if you have co2 burner et , etc etc. You ALWAYS oversize cooling I learned the hard way. You want 5-6k btu minimum per 1000 watt light on air cooled. And you will save energy oversize ur cooling system. 2.5 min so up it to 3. Why chance it. And those numbers are based off my climate Massachusetts, so without knowing ur climate, how well insulated the room is and tons of other variables no one even a contractor no disrespect can say you don't need 3 tons , and that's including myself even not knowing everything to say how much you need but 3 tons is on the safe side and you will save energy by oversize the unit
But yes a load calculation would need to be done, and i respect your opinion if you are running similar room. I run cobs and heat isn’t a real issue for me.
 

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
Go ahead and install 3 tons, not my advice. And yes if you purchase an inverted mini it should run ALL THE TIME.... that is where you get the climate control. No ups no downs .... always on keeping the room at a constant temp.
And no I haven’t ran a cooling or heating load for the member. But no worries no disrespect taken bro.
Grower, tech and contractor
I run a 3.5 ton in a 4x16 room, I wouldn’t want any less. When your running sealed oversized is better.

In the sealed room the fan will always be running to keep the environment at your set temp, it’s the outside condenser that you don’t want running all the time .

Grower, engineer, contractor, Growing consultant

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Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
I run a 3.5 ton in a 4x16 room, I wouldn’t want any less. When your running sealed oversized is better.

In the sealed room the fan will always be running to keep the environment at your set temp, it’s the outside condenser that you don’t want running all the time .

Grower, engineer, contractor, Growing consultant

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I beg to differ on the ac running all the time.
 
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