How do these look? Time to water?

DazeHazy

Active Member
I'm learning the ropes and would like some input to see if things are looking good? It's been 30 days since sprout, large pots approx 5 gallon, 20w CFL about 5" above each plant but not directly above so that it doesn't block the 400w hps about 2 feet above. Temps around 70 (dark) and max 78 (light). 30-40 % perlite/soil. Heavyweight Fruit Punch fem seeds.

They've only gotten about half to three quarters of a gallon of water each over the whole 30 days and 2 waterings so I'm thinking it's time to water with a tablespoon of unsulphured molasses. I took a tiny bit of soil out of one of the drainage holes and it feels very slightly damp. Last watering was 2 weeks ago but because I added more soil to the top it's hard to tell how dry it is.

Plant 1:
20170703.jpg

Plant 2:
20170703-1.jpg
 
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DazeHazy

Active Member
Looks hungry
Thanks. Hungry for water, nutes or both? I'm using powdered nutes, water soluble, 22-7-13 npk, diluted liquid kelp and molasses. Put some epsom salts in early on with dolomite lime. Plan on usng just molasses for the next watering. Should I include the npk with the molasses as well? Used kelp and a small amount of powdered nutes with the previous one.
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
What soil are you using? Looks like seedling soil.
This was the best I could find that has the lowest fertilizer content. Fox farms isn't available in our country unfortunately but I'll get better soil for the next grow.. Will also do transplanting next time.
 

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DazeHazy

Active Member
Yeah I had fresh soil on top and I watered about 19 hours ago with molasses. They looked a tiny bit perkier during the day but will look again in a few hours when the light come back on for a few hours. Will add NPK next watering or foliar feed if necessary.

Thanks for the input, appreciate it.
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
Trying to not over water or burn but might be taking it too easy.. Still have to find the balance.
 

dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
Molasses feeds microbes in soil. Not the plant. Plants don't absorb sugar.
Did you add any minerals to your soil mix? Like garden lime, dolomite lime, rock dust? Plants need those minerals in small quantities for adequate growth. Your plant either looks like it's missing something or the photo is too yellow.
NPK is just the big three. There's a lot of other micro nutes Cannabis needs.
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
Molasses feeds microbes in soil. Not the plant. Plants don't absorb sugar.
Did you add any minerals to your soil mix? Like garden lime, dolomite lime, rock dust? Plants need those minerals in small quantities for adequate growth. Your plant either looks like it's missing something or the photo is too yellow.
NPK is just the big three. There's a lot of other micro nutes Cannabis needs.
I added dolomite lime, epsom salts, couple of hand-fulls of compost to each pot, 1 watering with very light compost tea, some diluted liquid kelp and some NPK powdered nutrients and that's been it. I am a bit concerned that the bottom leaves in the 2nd picture are slightly yellow with little blotches. Here's a close up:

20170704_122011.jpg

I have a 3rd plant that whatever this is has pretty much destroyed it already, someone said it looks like nute burn but I'm not sure what it is, any ideas? I'm not impressed that it's started on the other plant now too. It starts on the lower leaves and moves upwards. The picture below shows the progression:

20170704.jpg
 

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DazeHazy

Active Member
Before planting I read that dolomite lime can take months to breakdown in the soil so what I did was mix the soil and dolomite about a month before planting and watered it. Thing is is that I didn't have any perlite yet so it stayed wet for quite a while. Maybe that caused a fungus to grow in the soil? Maybe leaf septoria which can apparently show up in N deficient plants? I had 3 fungus gnats in the 1st week after planting that I quickly dealt with and haven't seen any pests for the last 3 weeks.
 
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DazeHazy

Active Member
I'm treating it as septoria and N deficiency. I took the really sick one out of the room and used some baking soda foliar spray on the lower leaves of the other plant as that's what I have on hand at the moment. If the spots progress i'll prune the leaves although I hope it won't come to that. Let me know if you guys have any thoughts send thanks for helping a newb out :)
 

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
molasses is unnecessary and troublesome in soil
the amount of water you used has no significance as to your next watering. you water when dry, dont when wet. add about 1/4 the container volume of water each time your substrate is dry at the bottom.

how do you suppose a nitrogen deficiency would happen when using 22-7-13 nutrients ?

If fungus didnt grow in the soil neither would your plant. fungus is an essential part of the soil web.
your spots are not progressing like a disease, but a starvation/ill watering schedule/ill nutrients.


check these out quick http://catnews.org/FREE Pot Books/

every growing guide in existence shows your issues and why they happened and how to stop it in the future. I started with a couple grow bibles before I had internet and never suffered these problems. internet kills marijuana ime. stick to the printed words of our grow guru's for better results.
 

Nugachino

Well-Known Member
Bro science is what kills mary. That and doing things too much. Too much water. Too much nutrients too soon. Things like that.

It's called weed for a reason. It doesn't need 24/7 attention. Let it breathe. Water it every 3rd or 4th day. Rather than every day. Feed it in the same manner. Let the plant tell you what it wants.

Growweedeasy dot com is a good resource. And look into organics too. You can apply that sustainable method to your whole garden. Not just to growing Spanish Tomatoes.
 

dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
Dolo lime does need time to become available. For instant gratification use garden lime. I'm a little stumped but if it was my plant I'd take it out of its pot and have a good look at the roots. At work (at the nursery) I regularly use powdered sulphur on Haworthia to knock back fungus around the root zone. Apparently the super low Ph makes an inhospitable environment for fungus to grow. I watched recently as landscape guys transplanted a saguaro cactus and dumped gallons of liquid sulphur around the root zone to avoid a fungal infection.
I'm not saying you should go buy sulphur but if you suspect a fungus perhaps a fungicidal drench might help? I personally have no problem uprooting a plant just to see what's going on. I suggest you think about looking at the roots too.
The yellow leaves and associated spots could be over watering, it also looks like a little old burn. But burn usually stays on old leaves unless you're still over feeding it, over watering just gets worse...its lack of O2 at the root zone is the problem.
Again...if it were mine I'd uproot that bitch, do some light pruning on roots, also the top growth, repot into a light mix and water once, then let it get somewhat dry before you water again. I'm interested to see what other growers say also...so I'll stop back.
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
molasses is unnecessary and troublesome in soil
the amount of water you used has no significance as to your next watering. you water when dry, dont when wet. add about 1/4 the container volume of water each time your substrate is dry at the bottom.

how do you suppose a nitrogen deficiency would happen when using 22-7-13 nutrients ?

If fungus didnt grow in the soil neither would your plant. fungus is an essential part of the soil web.
your spots are not progressing like a disease, but a starvation/ill watering schedule/ill nutrients.

every growing guide in existence shows your issues and why they happened and how to stop it in the future. I started with a couple grow bibles before I had internet and never suffered these problems. internet kills marijuana ime. stick to the printed words of our grow guru's for better results.
Thanks for the tips and link I'll check it out. Regarding the 22-7-14 nutes: I have fed and watered really really lightly for fear of over watering or burning and because the lower leaves are a bit yellow and that septoria apparently shows up in N deficient plants this is why I'm thinking that perhaps it's an N problem.

I understand that fungi is necessary but you get bad fungi too. I hope that you're right that it's not a disease that can spread to my other plant.

Next grow I'll have smart pots and a much better idea of what to do and what not to do but hopefully still pull some decent results from this harvest.
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
Dolo lime does need time to become available. For instant gratification use garden lime. I'm a little stumped but if it was my plant I'd take it out of its pot and have a good look at the roots. At work (at the nursery) I regularly use powdered sulphur on Haworthia to knock back fungus around the root zone. Apparently the super low Ph makes an inhospitable environment for fungus to grow. I watched recently as landscape guys transplanted a saguaro cactus and dumped gallons of liquid sulphur around the root zone to avoid a fungal infection.
I'm not saying you should go buy sulphur but if you suspect a fungus perhaps a fungicidal drench might help? I personally have no problem uprooting a plant just to see what's going on. I suggest you think about looking at the roots too.
The yellow leaves and associated spots could be over watering, it also looks like a little old burn. But burn usually stays on old leaves unless you're still over feeding it, over watering just gets worse...its lack of O2 at the root zone is the problem.
Again...if it were mine I'd uproot that bitch, do some light pruning on roots, also the top growth, repot into a light mix and water once, then let it get somewhat dry before you water again. I'm interested to see what other growers say also...so I'll stop back.
Thanks. I've definitely added a few things to my shopping list. Yeah it's hard to treat the problem if I can't identify what's going on. These were planted directly into large pots because I didn't want to mess around too much with transplanting being a newb but it probably would've been the best way to go. About 2 weeks ago I was looking at the drainage holes of the sick plant and could already see a thick, probably the tap, root at the bottom so uprooting might be tricky but hey got nothing to lose right because I doubt this one will make it. The first pair of leaves after the cotyledons dried up and came off with the slightest touch and the plant only has 2 small sets of damaged leaves left.

I haven't watered or fed them for 2 weeks and they've only been and fed once and watered twice excluding the little water given as a new born and we're at the 32 day mark but my soil is taking too long to dry out I think.
 

DazeHazy

Active Member
Bro science is what kills mary. That and doing things too much. Too much water. Too much nutrients too soon. Things like that.

It's called weed for a reason. It doesn't need 24/7 attention. Let it breathe. Water it every 3rd or 4th day. Rather than every day. Feed it in the same manner. Let the plant tell you what it wants.

is a good resource. And look into organics too. You can apply that sustainable method to your whole garden. Not just to growing Spanish Tomatoes.
I've put a lot of effort into taking a more patient approach because I've come across the same suggestions everywhere about over watering, nute-ing etc. When I thought they were dry a few days ago I told myself to wait as long as I can but with the drooping leaves and spots that's why I decided to get some input from you guys. I didn't water for 2 weeks before yesterday. Smart pots and transplanting for the win next grow.
 
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