BBQtoast
Well-Known Member
The unit heat isn't much compared to the heat of the photon, stand under the light and you see how hot photons are.
Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 350R how much heat compared to other lights?
- Thread starter ilovetoskiatalta
- Start date
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
I'm willing to be wrong, but I need a more compelling argument to change my viewpoint.
SpideyManDan
Well-Known Member
Heat is an unwanted by product from the fixture and is produced when the fixture turns electrically energy into photons. The less efficient fixture is going to produce more heat because it does not convert electrically into photons as well.
BBQtoast
Well-Known Member
I think the discussion was more along the lines that the unit heat is small compared to the heat from the light. If we took the light away the units wouldn't heat the air a lot.
From what I can gather there was talk that two equal wattage LEDs and hids would need to be cooled based on their light outputs more than their units heat and if the led gave out more light it would require more btus of ac cooling.
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
How To Quickly Calculate BTUs Emitted from a Source Four For HVAC Purposes
support.etcconnect.com
Relevant link
PJ Diaz
Well-Known Member
ETC doesn't make any horticultural fixtures, that's for sure, but the physics should be the same. I have ETC dimmers and fixtures at work. I wonder how they factor the heat produced by the dimming modules vs the lights themselves in this equation. In my case, my rack of 300 dimmers is in it's own self-contained AC controlled room, and the lights are at least 100 feet of wire away, further in some cases. I'll tell you that a 750w ETC HPL lamp gets hot! I've seen techs accidentally melt insulators with them left on for a bit.How To Quickly Calculate BTUs Emitted from a Source Four For HVAC Purposes
Relevant link
Boatguy
Well-Known Member
I dont see much going on there. If you want them better than that, sand them.
I used an adhesive thermal substrate to mount the boards to the sinks, so i didnt bother with any sanding
Disconnect the drivers and have them lover in the room
Those little marks are purely cosmetic, just hide them with quantum boards.
I did some controlled testing with cobs a few years back, sanding/lapping heat sinks had ZERO effect. The difference between dirt cheap and high quality paste was huge.
Doesn't really work like that. But cool.
Don't see why not... thats what I do
MidnightSun72
Well-Known Member
Gavita CT 1930e LED Grow Light
The revolutionary new Gavita CT 1930e is the first and only LED that is a direct replacement for HPS. With a footprint designed to fit seamlessly in existing HPS layouts, the CT 1930e is a highly energy-efficient LED delivering serious growing power.
www.growpackage.com
Gavita dropped a new LED. Look at what the BTU it produces is rated at 2661BTU. It's a 780W Light. 780x3.41= 2659.8BTU. So basically Gavita also accounts for 100% of the light becoming heat for their calculations.
Clusterfuck Tuesday
Active Member
Mine runs a lot cooler then I thought it would. I was already planning on lengthening the cable from the ballast to the board so I could run it outside the tent, but it's not needed.
I lost 2° F going from a Mars Hydro TSW2000 running at about 80% ~215w or so with the ballasts mounted outside the tent to the 350R running at about 70% ~ 250w.
*I monitor actual power draw from the wall in all of my panels.
I lost 2° F going from a Mars Hydro TSW2000 running at about 80% ~215w or so with the ballasts mounted outside the tent to the 350R running at about 70% ~ 250w.
*I monitor actual power draw from the wall in all of my panels.