honest genetics

HonestGenetics420 · Feb 18, 2019

Jeremius said:
View attachment 4284762

Thanks for clarifying for people that I hooked you up. And I had no idea you were under the blurple LEDs too. Maybe that’s why your rates were so high. I was thinking you were under HID or CFL based on your pics lighting but I guess I should have asked. I’m definitely starting to think I should add LEDs to my testing areas and see if it makes a difference on the lines I breed with. Anyways, glad to see the CFS is purpling up, that’s a pretty signature finishing trait on that line and they have killer bag appeals

Jeremius · Feb 18, 2019

HonestGenetics420 said:
Thanks for clarifying for people that I hooked you up. And I had no idea you were under the blurple LEDs too. Maybe that’s why your rates were so high. I was thinking you were under HID or CFL based on your pics lighting but I guess I should have asked. I’m definitely starting to think I should add LEDs to my testing areas and see if it makes a difference on the lines I breed with. Anyways, glad to see the CFS is purpling up, that’s a pretty signature finishing trait on that line and they have killer bag appeals

I use mostly blurples for veg, and to supplement red in flower. The chocolate frosted sherbert's were on the opposite side of the flower room from the mars pro epistar, the CFS's we're mainly under CMH and citizen LED. cobs. Blurples never gave me an issue with Hermaphroditic rates for over the many years I used them. Actually I used nothing but mars LEDs for over the first three years of growing indoors and never had a Hermaphroditic plant not even once. However, anything is possible. Would be cool to do a scientific test, I have my other favorite of the CFS, the #1 one of the others that had hermaphroditic tendencies, I could do a test, one under mars pro epistar and one under CMH in a different room. Would be cool to see the results. May have to create a mother to do all that though, but I will try. Thanks for the idea to test them :rolleyes:

socaljoe · Feb 18, 2019

Still going over here. My girls are on day 40 of 12/12, right about the end of week 4 flowering going by when I started seeing pistils.

You'll see in this pic, the ScarJo on the right just can't be tamed. I've broken her over twice and she still wants to go into the light.

ScarJo #2, she's in the back behind stretchy ScarJo #1. You can kind of see the leaves are starting to pick up some purple around the edges.

Oregon Orange Punch #2. She's the frostiest so far, but also the most finnicky. Some of the leaves are doing the taco...I've looked around and the consensus is that heat is the primary culprit, but my temps have been decent, up to the low-mid 80's, but mostly high 70's/low 80's.

Oregon Orange Punch #1. Took her out of the tent to see if I could get a better picture...maybe if I was a better picture taker. :bigjoint:

She's been solid this whole time. I did find an unopened nanner on her, probably my fault.

No bud shots of ScarJo #1 at the moment as she's a good bit behind the others in her development. She took longer in the stretch and was slower to initiate bud formation.

So that's where I'm at. Starting this grow, I didn't have high expectations...I was hoping to gain some experience with indoor and learn from the mistakes I made along the way so that I could do better next time. Now that I'm halfway (roughly) through flowering, the reality is starting to creep in that I might not completely fuck this up.

growslut · Feb 19, 2019

socaljoe said:
Still going over here. My girls are on day 40 of 12/12, right about the end of week 4 flowering going by when I started seeing pistils.

You'll see in this pic, the ScarJo on the right just can't be tamed. I've broken her over twice and she still wants to go into the light.

View attachment 4285319

ScarJo #2, she's in the back behind stretchy ScarJo #1. You can kind of see the leaves are starting to pick up some purple around the edges.
View attachment 4285320

Oregon Orange Punch #2. She's the frostiest so far, but also the most finnicky. Some of the leaves are doing the taco...I've looked around and the consensus is that heat is the primary culprit, but my temps have been decent, up to the low-mid 80's, but mostly high 70's/low 80's.
View attachment 4285321

Oregon Orange Punch #1. Took her out of the tent to see if I could get a better picture...maybe if I was a better picture taker. She's been solid this whole time. I did find an unopened nanner on her, probably my fault.

View attachment 4285322

No bud shots of ScarJo #1 at the moment as she's a good bit behind the others in her development. She took longer in the stretch and was slower to initiate bud formation.

So that's where I'm at. Starting this grow, I didn't have high expectations...I was hoping to gain some experience with indoor and learn from the mistakes I made along the way so that I could do better next time. Now that I'm halfway (roughly) through flowering, the reality is starting to creep in that I might not completely fuck this up.

Looking great, Joe!

Congrats on kicking ass for your first indoor grow!

Stiickygreen · Feb 19, 2019

I'll be interested to hear your take on the OOP. Still kinda eyeing that one but think i may be set on orange terps with the multiple Trop Cookies/Oni packs I have on hand. Even so..a good report might entice me to jump....

Tokin some Ms. Scarlett right now.....the paper was all lathered with SJ rosin....and man...she just tastes SO good. You will like.

HonestGenetics420 · Feb 19, 2019

Stiickygreen said:
I'll be interested to hear your take on the OOP. Still kinda eyeing that one but think i may be set on orange terps with the multiple Trop Cookies/Oni packs I have on hand. Even so..a good report might entice me to jump....

Tokin some Ms. Scarlett right now.....the paper was all lathered with SJ rosin....and man...she just tastes SO good. You will like.

Tropicana Cookies are made off of Tangie lines. Oregon Orange Juice which is the mother of OOP is my own creation as are her parents and they are not related to Tangie whatsoever. So if Tangie is your thing then go with Oni, but personally I think Tangie terps are pretty played out.
Glad you are enjoying your Scarlett!

HonestGenetics420 · Feb 19, 2019

socaljoe said:
Still going over here. My girls are on day 40 of 12/12, right about the end of week 4 flowering going by when I started seeing pistils.

You'll see in this pic, the ScarJo on the right just can't be tamed. I've broken her over twice and she still wants to go into the light.

View attachment 4285319

ScarJo #2, she's in the back behind stretchy ScarJo #1. You can kind of see the leaves are starting to pick up some purple around the edges.
View attachment 4285320

Oregon Orange Punch #2. She's the frostiest so far, but also the most finnicky. Some of the leaves are doing the taco...I've looked around and the consensus is that heat is the primary culprit, but my temps have been decent, up to the low-mid 80's, but mostly high 70's/low 80's.
View attachment 4285321

Oregon Orange Punch #1. Took her out of the tent to see if I could get a better picture...maybe if I was a better picture taker. She's been solid this whole time. I did find an unopened nanner on her, probably my fault.

View attachment 4285322

No bud shots of ScarJo #1 at the moment as she's a good bit behind the others in her development. She took longer in the stretch and was slower to initiate bud formation.

So that's where I'm at. Starting this grow, I didn't have high expectations...I was hoping to gain some experience with indoor and learn from the mistakes I made along the way so that I could do better next time. Now that I'm halfway (roughly) through flowering, the reality is starting to creep in that I might not completely fuck this up.

Yeah that’s a bit hot, indoor plants tend to prefer 70-75 in flowering. Just make sure you have good airflow and air exchange in the tent so that you don’t get mold issues, temps in the 80’s can leave you vulnerable to it. All in all though, looking good so far, and Scarlett definitely does get big

blowincherrypie · Feb 19, 2019

HonestGenetics420 said:
Yeah that’s a bit hot, indoor plants tend to prefer 70-75 in flowering. Just make sure you have good airflow and air exchange in the tent so that you don’t get mold issues, temps in the 80’s can leave you vulnerable to it. All in all though, looking good so far, and Scarlett definitely does get big

idk.. 70-75 is a little low for his QB setup imo..

HonestGenetics420 · Feb 19, 2019

blowincherrypie said:
idk.. 70-75 is a little low for his QB setup imo..

Flowering temps should always be 70-75 regardless of setup. In veg running in the 80’s is better. But flowers are delicate, running temps too high increases frequency of a lot of problems. Leaf curling, pistils burning, mold issues, and it also changes the bud structure to be more airy and less dense. Think of nature and when plants actually flower, they do it in the fall when temperatures even out and get cooler. For indoor purposes flowering during the day at max 75 and keeping your nights at 68-70 is about as ideal as you can get

Buss Relville · Feb 19, 2019

Well last season I gave my buddy one of my lagger blue hurricane's, and he kept it pretty tiny. pulled it about a week ago, and today squished the whole thing. not much to show for, but she was out in the cold & rain for so long, she did go dark purple all over. which made a bit of rosin like this

first time successfully pulling color like that, really cool.

Stiickygreen · Feb 20, 2019

HonestGenetics420 said:
Tropicana Cookies are made off of Tangie lines. Oregon Orange Juice which is the mother of OOP is my own creation as are her parents and they are not related to Tangie whatsoever. So if Tangie is your thing then go with Oni, but personally I think Tangie terps are pretty played out.
Glad you are enjoying your Scarlett!

I've never had Tangie before to know....so nothing is at all played out here. Pretty much anything other than GSC that has been popular in the last 10 or so has eluded me because I took myself out of the mix/flow/trading scene/sales/etc. after my son passed in 2011. The last quality orange offering I had was about 15 years ago with the "Jackie O" clone. I'm trusting that the multiple reports of citrus and more in the Oni packs I have will play out. Time will tell. Damn near everything makes decent rosin/bubble hash these days. If I don't find the terps I'm expecting to find or something even more interesting, I'll be out there again looking for something different. I'm sitting in a good place right now where I actually have too many seeds to pop as it is...so while I'd love a peek to compare OOP to Oni and other stuff I have that may drop citus terps...time/space/need/common sense are dictating that I gotta wait for that look-see. I'll sneak a Scarlett or two in the Summer outdoor mix though....

min0r · Feb 20, 2019

nothing too impressive yet. i believe i'm getting some dos-si-dos bud structure. frost is building up strong.

blowincherrypie · Feb 20, 2019

HonestGenetics420 said:
Flowering temps should always be 70-75 regardless of setup. In veg running in the 80’s is better. But flowers are delicate, running temps too high increases frequency of a lot of problems. Leaf curling, pistils burning, mold issues, and it also changes the bud structure to be more airy and less dense. Think of nature and when plants actually flower, they do it in the fall when temperatures even out and get cooler. For indoor purposes flowering during the day at max 75 and keeping your nights at 68-70 is about as ideal as you can get

idk man.. There's science behind what I'm talking about. Google leaf temp and growing with LED.. Since LED has a much different spectrum than HPS you have to raise the room temp..

And I gotta say, it's odd for someone to say "think of nature" and then say max 75 min 68-70.. Not trying to be a dick but where in nature are you finding 5 degree difference from the high and low?

Running led with too low leaf temps can cause a whole different set of problems.. and I've found that having a 10-15 degree difference between lights on and off tend to bring out the best of the bud (when growing with LED).. Shit's a plant though, and you seem to know what you're doing, but running 65+ lights off and around 80 with lights on is just about perfect for @socaljoe set up imo

HonestGenetics420 · Feb 20, 2019

blowincherrypie said:
idk man.. There's science behind what I'm talking about. Google leaf temp and growing with LED.. Since LED has a much different spectrum than HPS you have to raise the room temp..

And I gotta say, it's odd for someone to say "think of nature" and then say max 75 min 68-70.. Not trying to be a dick but where in nature are you finding 5 degree difference from the high and low?

Running led with too low leaf temps can cause a whole different set of problems.. and I've found that having a 10-15 degree difference between lights on and off tend to bring out the best of the bud (when growing with LED).. Shit's a plant though, and you seem to know what you're doing, but running 65+ lights off and around 80 with lights on is just about perfect for @socaljoe set up imo

I’m talking about ideal indoor settings. But what do I know, I’ve only been messing around with indoor growing settings since 2002, not like I’ve learned anything via trial and error. Night time temps in outdoor are generally lower than desired by the plants. You have to boost your silica to prevent cold shock outside in the fall. The only plants that like higher temp settings indoors are equatorial sativas and at this point modern genetics don’t really include very high percentages of those in their mixes. Typically most plants are more related to northern hemisphere breeds that come from higher elevations in nature. And those have ideal daytime temps in the mid 70’s, but nature is colder at night than the plants actually thrive in. I’m telling you what temperatures get you the best yields. If you want to hit 3+ lbs per 1000W of light then you’ll need to run similar settings. Higher temps don’t yield as well, lower temps at night partially stunt daytime growth

blowincherrypie · Feb 20, 2019

HonestGenetics420 said:
I’m talking about ideal indoor settings. But what do I know, I’ve only been messing around with indoor growing settings since 2002, not like I’ve learned anything via trial and error. Night time temps in outdoor are generally lower than desired by the plants. You have to boost your silica to prevent cold shock outside in the fall. The only plants that like higher temp settings indoors are equatorial sativas and at this point modern genetics don’t really include very high percentages of those in their mixes. Typically most plants are more related to northern hemisphere breeds that come from higher elevations in nature. And those have ideal daytime temps in the mid 70’s, but nature is colder at night than the plants actually thrive in. I’m telling you what temperatures get you the best yields. If you want to hit 3+ lbs per 1000W of light then you’ll need to run similar settings. Higher temps don’t yield as well, lower temps at night partially stunt daytime growth

It's not lower temps.. its the difference from the high and low. If you want to minimize stretch, sure have a 5 degree difference from on/off.. If you want to bring the most out of the bud you're going to want to have a 8-15 degree difference. The temperatures that your saying to get best yields are really only when you're talking about using HPS. Look I'm not gonna waste my time googling if you're not willing to learn anything, but in order to get optimal leaf temp with LED vs HPS you MUST raise the temp..

For example, the leaf temp at 75 degrees is higher when you use HPS compared to LED.. Therefore you must run a higher temp when using LED to reach a preferred leaf temperature.. and once again just my opinion, 5 degrees Fahrenheit is not an optimal temperature differential, unless you're trying minimize stretch or have some other goal in mind..

It's all good though, do your thing brother... Im just pointing out that sometimes you want to run different temps depending on your light source/setup.

No_tillin · Feb 20, 2019

blowincherrypie said:
idk man.. There's science behind what I'm talking about. Google leaf temp and growing with LED.. Since LED has a much different spectrum than HPS you have to raise the room temp..

And I gotta say, it's odd for someone to say "think of nature" and then say max 75 min 68-70.. Not trying to be a dick but where in nature are you finding 5 degree difference from the high and low?

Running led with too low leaf temps can cause a whole different set of problems.. and I've found that having a 10-15 degree difference between lights on and off tend to bring out the best of the bud (when growing with LED).. Shit's a plant though, and you seem to know what you're doing, but running 65+ lights off and around 80 with lights on is just about perfect for @socaljoe set up imo

I agree when running LED lights you need to run slightly higher temps.

HonestGenetics420 · Feb 20, 2019

I would say if you aren’t using an equivalent LED light to match the amount of light being produced by an HPS or CMH light that that’s most likely true. But typically speaking you use a lot more A/C in a room using HPS and CMH vs LED. And air temperature and leaf temperature partially go hand in hand. The only thing that really changes that is the amount of light being produced by the source and how that reacts with the water trapped inside the leaf/bud. So if you’re using like a 300W LED then having a slight temp boost would be beneficial I’d say, but if you’re running a 1000W equivalent it should be about the same effect. Unless of course you’re not using your A/C units correctly, they should always rain the cold air from above since heat rises.
The reason for keeping your temp swing low between day and night has to do with the plants biological functions. Below 65 degrees cannabis doesn’t grow as quickly and begins to be stress induced, this crosses over into the morning growth as well and slows your plants growth considerably once the lights come back on and they recover from the shock. Yes you can get some nice coloring by pushing those low temps but IMHO the best purples are genetic and not cold stress induced.
And yes the whole reason for keeping the temp swing minimal is for optimal bud growth and density formation. Indoor is all about creating an artificial climate that gives artificial perfection. When I show my personal grow photos they always look ideal because the plants were kept in a happy low stress environment. Proper density, excellent resin formation, etcetera are all better controlled within the range I gave. However there are a couple phenomenons that occur at higher temps. You’re more likely to see a CBG boost at higher temps(especially with a UV spike), and you’re much more likely to see the presence of THCV running a higher temp(genetics also matter on this).
So if you run low wattage LEDs then probably a 5 degree air temperature spike would be good to get your leaf and bud temperature correct. But with a higher wattage LED with excellent PAR value that compares to a 1000W HPS or CMH it should be relatively the same.
That all said, nothing will ever come close to the sun itself, especially if you’re between 3000-4000 ft above sea level where the red, blue, and UV spectrums are completely ideal for cannabis cultivation. With a climate controlled light deprivation greenhouse at that elevation you can surpass any indoor grow imaginable. But it requires true climate control which can get quite spendy depending on the season

DirtyokieJ · Feb 20, 2019

@honest hey man is the blueberry lollipop fem or regs?

blowincherrypie · Feb 20, 2019

HonestGenetics420 said:
I would say if you aren’t using an equivalent LED light to match the amount of light being produced by an HPS or CMH light that that’s most likely true. But typically speaking you use a lot more A/C in a room using HPS and CMH vs LED. And air temperature and leaf temperature partially go hand in hand. The only thing that really changes that is the amount of light being produced by the source and how that reacts with the water trapped inside the leaf/bud. So if you’re using like a 300W LED then having a slight temp boost would be beneficial I’d say, but if you’re running a 1000W equivalent it should be about the same effect. Unless of course you’re not using your A/C units correctly, they should always rain the cold air from above since heat rises.
The reason for keeping your temp swing low between day and night has to do with the plants biological functions. Below 65 degrees cannabis doesn’t grow as quickly and begins to be stress induced, this crosses over into the morning growth as well and slows your plants growth considerably once the lights come back on and they recover from the shock. Yes you can get some nice coloring by pushing those low temps but IMHO the best purples are genetic and not cold stress induced.
And yes the whole reason for keeping the temp swing minimal is for optimal bud growth and density formation. Indoor is all about creating an artificial climate that gives artificial perfection. When I show my personal grow photos they always look ideal because the plants were kept in a happy low stress environment. Proper density, excellent resin formation, etcetera are all better controlled within the range I gave. However there are a couple phenomenons that occur at higher temps. You’re more likely to see a CBG boost at higher temps(especially with a UV spike), and you’re much more likely to see the presence of THCV running a higher temp(genetics also matter on this).
So if you run low wattage LEDs then probably a 5 degree air temperature spike would be good to get your leaf and bud temperature correct. But with a higher wattage LED with excellent PAR value that compares to a 1000W HPS or CMH it should be relatively the same.
That all said, nothing will ever come close to the sun itself, especially if you’re between 3000-4000 ft above sea level where the red, blue, and UV spectrums are completely ideal for cannabis cultivation. With a climate controlled light deprivation greenhouse at that elevation you can surpass any indoor grow imaginable. But it requires true climate control which can get quite spendy depending on the season

It doesn't matter if you're using a single 100w COB or 5000w of Quantum Boards, you would still want higher temps with LED to have the same leaf temp as you would with HPS at a lower temp.

min0r · Feb 20, 2019

blowincherrypie said:
It doesn't matter if you're using a single 100w COB or 5000w of Quantum Boards, you would still want higher temps with LED to have the same leaf temp as you would with HPS at a lower temp.

what happens if you break the law and don't use those higher temps and let your temps sit under 68 but over 60

honest genetics

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