greeniegal
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SEEDS
Some seeds with hard seedcoats or dormancies that must be broken before they will grow. Methods of doing so include:
Nicking and Soaking: Large seeds often benefit from soaking in water overnight or until swollen. Some seeds will refuse to swell unless the seed coat is nicked or scratched first. With a knife, small file, scrape away a small portion of the seedcoat on the side opposite the hilum or germ eye (the small dent where the seed sprouts). The hole should not be big, just large enough for water to enter during soaking. When soaking any seed, be sure to plant it as soon as it is swollen, as some seeds will drown if left for long in the water.
Stratification: Some seeds need to be stratified before they will germinate. This process involves placing the seed in damp peat moss or sand, and storing at a low temperature until dormancy is broken.
Chemicals: Chemicals are sometimes used for seeds with hard seedcoats that are not affected by stratification or soaking. In nature, these seeds have their coats softened by the digestive juices of birds and animals that eat them. Acids such as vinegar or sulfuric acid, and alkalis like sodium hypochlorite (Clorox) are used. The seeds must be thoroughly washed after treatment.
Scalding Seeds: Other hard-shelled seeds, are best treated with boiling water. To do this, place the seeds in a teacup, and pour boiling water over them. The water is allowed to cool and the seeds are soaked until they swell. This may be repeated with any seed that does not swell after the first time.
Peat Moss: This is a very good medium in which to sprout seeds. Put some milled sphagnum moss (peat moss) in a plastic bag. Add water and knead thoroughly until the moss is uniformly damp. Fill a shallow pan or aluminum pie tin about 1 inch deep with the damp moss. Cover with plastic wrap, or a sheet of glass. Seeds may be started on the surface of the moss or buried in it; with or without bottom heat.
Bottom Heat: This hastens germination of many seeds. To provide bottom heat, take a strong corrugated cardboard box and turn it upside down with a 40-watt light inside. Cut slits or small holes in the bottom to let the heat through to the flats or seed pans. Be sure that the heat will not cook the seedlings, as different seed pans or flats transmit different amounts of heat.
When sowing seeds a general rule is to cover them with soil two or three times their thickness. Very small seeds, should be just slightly covered or pressed into the surface. Small seeds may also be mixed with sand to insure even distribution.
The soil for all seeds should be light and porous.
Seedlings should be transplanted after the second pair of true leaves opens. Transplanting is preferably done on a cool cloudy day. The transplant should be shaded for several days.
Some seeds with hard seedcoats or dormancies that must be broken before they will grow. Methods of doing so include:
Nicking and Soaking: Large seeds often benefit from soaking in water overnight or until swollen. Some seeds will refuse to swell unless the seed coat is nicked or scratched first. With a knife, small file, scrape away a small portion of the seedcoat on the side opposite the hilum or germ eye (the small dent where the seed sprouts). The hole should not be big, just large enough for water to enter during soaking. When soaking any seed, be sure to plant it as soon as it is swollen, as some seeds will drown if left for long in the water.
Stratification: Some seeds need to be stratified before they will germinate. This process involves placing the seed in damp peat moss or sand, and storing at a low temperature until dormancy is broken.
Chemicals: Chemicals are sometimes used for seeds with hard seedcoats that are not affected by stratification or soaking. In nature, these seeds have their coats softened by the digestive juices of birds and animals that eat them. Acids such as vinegar or sulfuric acid, and alkalis like sodium hypochlorite (Clorox) are used. The seeds must be thoroughly washed after treatment.
Scalding Seeds: Other hard-shelled seeds, are best treated with boiling water. To do this, place the seeds in a teacup, and pour boiling water over them. The water is allowed to cool and the seeds are soaked until they swell. This may be repeated with any seed that does not swell after the first time.
Peat Moss: This is a very good medium in which to sprout seeds. Put some milled sphagnum moss (peat moss) in a plastic bag. Add water and knead thoroughly until the moss is uniformly damp. Fill a shallow pan or aluminum pie tin about 1 inch deep with the damp moss. Cover with plastic wrap, or a sheet of glass. Seeds may be started on the surface of the moss or buried in it; with or without bottom heat.
Bottom Heat: This hastens germination of many seeds. To provide bottom heat, take a strong corrugated cardboard box and turn it upside down with a 40-watt light inside. Cut slits or small holes in the bottom to let the heat through to the flats or seed pans. Be sure that the heat will not cook the seedlings, as different seed pans or flats transmit different amounts of heat.
When sowing seeds a general rule is to cover them with soil two or three times their thickness. Very small seeds, should be just slightly covered or pressed into the surface. Small seeds may also be mixed with sand to insure even distribution.
The soil for all seeds should be light and porous.
Seedlings should be transplanted after the second pair of true leaves opens. Transplanting is preferably done on a cool cloudy day. The transplant should be shaded for several days.
