Pharma companies don't want removal...Lose revenue !!
Help regarding choosing solution for adding UVA/UVB LED's to a DIY COB LED grow light.
- Thread starter Planet Tomato
- Start date
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
Doesn't really matter what they want - the tide is moving, more and more states are voting for legalization every year, its only a matter of time before the Feds cave to voter's demands.
Planet Tomato
Member
Hello again.
[Sorry for the off-topic information later on about my situation, but I can't manage to write a text with selected parts of this post and other parts are important enough for me to post that it simply have to be like this]
I have been working on the code that will in the end run in the microcontroller which will control amongst other things the UV LED's(I am working on a very exciting project to integrate many functions regarding my tent that I will tell you about later, other things to respond to first) which is why I haven't responded until now(I have to seal of my range of attention in order to get anything done).
@Randomblame, #72.
I read the post yesterday and although I can't recall it all right now it was obvious to me that what you wrote will make it much easier for me to work this out. Thank you kindly.
I am trying to work out if I could use a sensor such as a VEML6070 - UVA Light Sensor with I2C Interface(datasheet), I have two concerns:
1. Look at the following Normalized Spectral Response graph, is it a problem that the response is so low around where my LED's are specified which is 365nm, 385nm, 395nm & 405nm?
The sensors name indicate that it is for UVA but around 400nm looks very low compared to the other end at 320nm:
2. I would need some source to "calibrate" the sensor, summer is quickly disappearing where I live but I could wait until a really sunny day without clouds to measure the amount of UV outside(I should be able to find some information from my nations whether organisations or something about what levels are expected this time of year with blue skies) and use that as a sort of calibration(it should really not be called calibration), unless the LED's them selfs can be used by exposing the sensor to one of the LED's at very close range.
Are ether of these viable for my purposes?
@SSR, #74.
I will of course respect it if that's how you feel, but I'd like to say something about this all.
I understand the sentiment behind it all and I do agree yet there are some circumstances which makes me completely ignore the fact that I agree with you and blaze ahead with the UV supplementation. But I am also really not worried because 1, my first grow has had problems but I have managed and I am very happy with the results, harvest come mid September(of course next one might turn out differently) but I really don't mind if I screw it up and loose a grow, if I would make a big mistake with the UV LED's then I would have learned a big lesson, so I am fine with that. But for my self there are other considerations, the UV LED's are but the first part of a much broader project regarding my tent which I will tell you about in the next post, I don't want to bother anyone here to read much about it but the combination of my neurological diagnoses makes it so that I cannot control what I do or when I do it(I am getting better and better at controlling what i spend my time doing but it is a slow improvement), it sounds really strange and believe me it is, my diagnoses form numerous paradoxes which makes it very hard for me to control my attention and/or actions and I really feel that I want to add the UVA LED's(I saw the youtube clip and it made it very clear, other sources online makes it sounds as though the wavelength are what matters in a way so that UVA can't replace UVB) and it might be that I want to do this simply for the beneficial experience of actually doing what I want to do(this is one theory of why I am so determined to do it, it might be wrong and there might be some other real reason which I am not aware of).
Buying this tent and setting up this system in the tent so that I can grow is the first project I actually have completed in any real sense, ever. I mean the tent as it is now including the grow light and everything is enough for me to be able grow and I don't really need to add anything more. But this is how it gets when I get interested in something and I want to develop it further, by the way, the reason for adding UVA isn't simply to increase the THC. Of course if I could accomplish an increase in THC that would be great but I am not doing this to try and push my plants to there absolute limit, it is more for the fun of it actually, the fun and the good feeling of creating a more nature like environment. Plus since I am so driven when it comes to cannabis related things I can use this UVA deal to make sure my larger projects gets of the ground.
I might prove my self a moron in the end but I will steam right ahead with these UVA LED's, but even if someone would advice me and I would screw something up, I would not in any way consider the one whom advised me as having contributed to the screwing up.
Mistakes are the least desirable way to achieve learning but it sure is an certain way to learn something.
@Kushash, #76.
I am not a person to turn down any advice, I will post some pictures and write a more accurate account for what has happened and what is happening now, I have some issue though I don't know what it is but in any case it isn't that serious and the grow will not fail due to this issue. I appreciate the kindness.
I would like to say that I know that I have gone somewhat overboard with the number of products especially giving the fact that I'm on my first grow. But the product Dutch Master Saturator was so fascinating that I couldn't resist and I bought that mostly for fun, and the same applies to Flavinator.
[Sorry for the off-topic information later on about my situation, but I can't manage to write a text with selected parts of this post and other parts are important enough for me to post that it simply have to be like this]
I have been working on the code that will in the end run in the microcontroller which will control amongst other things the UV LED's(I am working on a very exciting project to integrate many functions regarding my tent that I will tell you about later, other things to respond to first) which is why I haven't responded until now(I have to seal of my range of attention in order to get anything done).
@Randomblame, #72.
I read the post yesterday and although I can't recall it all right now it was obvious to me that what you wrote will make it much easier for me to work this out. Thank you kindly.
I am trying to work out if I could use a sensor such as a VEML6070 - UVA Light Sensor with I2C Interface(datasheet), I have two concerns:
1. Look at the following Normalized Spectral Response graph, is it a problem that the response is so low around where my LED's are specified which is 365nm, 385nm, 395nm & 405nm?
The sensors name indicate that it is for UVA but around 400nm looks very low compared to the other end at 320nm:
2. I would need some source to "calibrate" the sensor, summer is quickly disappearing where I live but I could wait until a really sunny day without clouds to measure the amount of UV outside(I should be able to find some information from my nations whether organisations or something about what levels are expected this time of year with blue skies) and use that as a sort of calibration(it should really not be called calibration), unless the LED's them selfs can be used by exposing the sensor to one of the LED's at very close range.
Are ether of these viable for my purposes?
@SSR, #74.
I will of course respect it if that's how you feel, but I'd like to say something about this all.
I understand the sentiment behind it all and I do agree yet there are some circumstances which makes me completely ignore the fact that I agree with you and blaze ahead with the UV supplementation. But I am also really not worried because 1, my first grow has had problems but I have managed and I am very happy with the results, harvest come mid September(of course next one might turn out differently) but I really don't mind if I screw it up and loose a grow, if I would make a big mistake with the UV LED's then I would have learned a big lesson, so I am fine with that. But for my self there are other considerations, the UV LED's are but the first part of a much broader project regarding my tent which I will tell you about in the next post, I don't want to bother anyone here to read much about it but the combination of my neurological diagnoses makes it so that I cannot control what I do or when I do it(I am getting better and better at controlling what i spend my time doing but it is a slow improvement), it sounds really strange and believe me it is, my diagnoses form numerous paradoxes which makes it very hard for me to control my attention and/or actions and I really feel that I want to add the UVA LED's(I saw the youtube clip and it made it very clear, other sources online makes it sounds as though the wavelength are what matters in a way so that UVA can't replace UVB) and it might be that I want to do this simply for the beneficial experience of actually doing what I want to do(this is one theory of why I am so determined to do it, it might be wrong and there might be some other real reason which I am not aware of).
Buying this tent and setting up this system in the tent so that I can grow is the first project I actually have completed in any real sense, ever. I mean the tent as it is now including the grow light and everything is enough for me to be able grow and I don't really need to add anything more. But this is how it gets when I get interested in something and I want to develop it further, by the way, the reason for adding UVA isn't simply to increase the THC. Of course if I could accomplish an increase in THC that would be great but I am not doing this to try and push my plants to there absolute limit, it is more for the fun of it actually, the fun and the good feeling of creating a more nature like environment. Plus since I am so driven when it comes to cannabis related things I can use this UVA deal to make sure my larger projects gets of the ground.
I might prove my self a moron in the end but I will steam right ahead with these UVA LED's, but even if someone would advice me and I would screw something up, I would not in any way consider the one whom advised me as having contributed to the screwing up.
Mistakes are the least desirable way to achieve learning but it sure is an certain way to learn something.
@Kushash, #76.
I am not a person to turn down any advice, I will post some pictures and write a more accurate account for what has happened and what is happening now, I have some issue though I don't know what it is but in any case it isn't that serious and the grow will not fail due to this issue. I appreciate the kindness.
I would like to say that I know that I have gone somewhat overboard with the number of products especially giving the fact that I'm on my first grow. But the product Dutch Master Saturator was so fascinating that I couldn't resist and I bought that mostly for fun, and the same applies to Flavinator.
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
You'll need to calculate a multiplier for each wavelength that compensates for the "weaknesses" of the sensor, just so you'll get near-accurate UV readings. It will not be easy and that is why UV meters are relatively expensive.
In addition, all sensors are different and even if the meters are all calibrated they show big differences in the measurements. It took a lot of time to program the devices and the corresponding software. You can not do that as a hobbiist nearly as well as the pros.
Maybe easier when you buy a finished device and take the sensor out and extends its wire connections. You have what you need and save the time-consuming programming. You get good UVA meters from $150, good UVB meters cost $250 and above.
Solarmeter 6.2 is one of the best UVB meters available and they also have meters for a wider range (UVA+UVB) in the same price range.
https://www.solarmeter.com/uva-b-meters.html
https://www.solarmeter.com/model62.html
But none of this broadband devices shows you how well the radiation mimics natural UV levels. For that you need a sprectrometer able to measure wavelengths down to 280nm.
In addition, all sensors are different and even if the meters are all calibrated they show big differences in the measurements. It took a lot of time to program the devices and the corresponding software. You can not do that as a hobbiist nearly as well as the pros.
Maybe easier when you buy a finished device and take the sensor out and extends its wire connections. You have what you need and save the time-consuming programming. You get good UVA meters from $150, good UVB meters cost $250 and above.
Solarmeter 6.2 is one of the best UVB meters available and they also have meters for a wider range (UVA+UVB) in the same price range.
https://www.solarmeter.com/uva-b-meters.html
https://www.solarmeter.com/model62.html
But none of this broadband devices shows you how well the radiation mimics natural UV levels. For that you need a sprectrometer able to measure wavelengths down to 280nm.
SSR
Well-Known Member
And that's why I'm heading the spectrometer route @Randomblame
@Planet Tomato if you're not worried about losing grows forge ahead. I'm like you in a lot of senses but if you are like me you'll want to know why things didn't work so you don't do that next time.
If you haven't got a bit of experience under your belt how will you know if its the lighting, environment etc. I'm not trying to put you off altogether, simply trying to get you to wait a little
Enthusiasm is a great thing but needs to be kept in check at times as it'll lead to failures sometimes.
You're not going to prove yourself a failure but i do think you're skipping crawling, walking and running and just jumping straight into the rocket powered car lol.
Best of luck
@Planet Tomato if you're not worried about losing grows forge ahead. I'm like you in a lot of senses but if you are like me you'll want to know why things didn't work so you don't do that next time.
If you haven't got a bit of experience under your belt how will you know if its the lighting, environment etc. I'm not trying to put you off altogether, simply trying to get you to wait a little
Enthusiasm is a great thing but needs to be kept in check at times as it'll lead to failures sometimes.
You're not going to prove yourself a failure but i do think you're skipping crawling, walking and running and just jumping straight into the rocket powered car lol.
Best of luck
Hi
Did you know / have test already this kind of UVA COB ? :
Power 20W.
We can find some more powerfull (100W and 200W) at Flip Chip Opto (fcopto).
But the question is : What the plant needs of UVA Power ^^
Regarding the UVA Tubes, the major problem is the lifetime : most of them have 400hours/800hours lifetime.
I have contact Agromax and the answer is : "We recommend changing the lamps after every 18 months of use. The longer lamps are used, the less light they put out. After 18 months they will probably be emitting only 50% of their initial peak output. Lamps however can work for years though." So, nothing accurate, no datasheet...
Did you know / have test already this kind of UVA COB ? :
Power 20W.
We can find some more powerfull (100W and 200W) at Flip Chip Opto (fcopto).
But the question is : What the plant needs of UVA Power ^^
Regarding the UVA Tubes, the major problem is the lifetime : most of them have 400hours/800hours lifetime.
I have contact Agromax and the answer is : "We recommend changing the lamps after every 18 months of use. The longer lamps are used, the less light they put out. After 18 months they will probably be emitting only 50% of their initial peak output. Lamps however can work for years though." So, nothing accurate, no datasheet...
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
That's wrong! The output is more like 75-80% if we use the same numbers like from reptile bulbs. It also meant the UVB radiation, UVA decrease to almost nothing over its life time.
A 12% Arcadia bulb was tested and still produce 50% of the initial output after 4500h and they both use the same technique(T5HO). It's a seller and they want to sell as much as possible...
A 5 years old Agromax bulb probably puts out more usable UVB like a brand new reptile bulb. From this point of view you can use them much much longer than recommended. Also UV works like a dose princip. An 5y. old bulb needs maybe to run 20mins to put out the same amount of UVB like a brand new bulb does in only 10 minutes.
Both would give you the same dose and you can expect the same results.
Old bulbs can be used to get the girls used to UVB light in your veg area. I would not throw them away before 5000h are done.
A 12% Arcadia bulb was tested and still produce 50% of the initial output after 4500h and they both use the same technique(T5HO). It's a seller and they want to sell as much as possible...
A 5 years old Agromax bulb probably puts out more usable UVB like a brand new reptile bulb. From this point of view you can use them much much longer than recommended. Also UV works like a dose princip. An 5y. old bulb needs maybe to run 20mins to put out the same amount of UVB like a brand new bulb does in only 10 minutes.
Both would give you the same dose and you can expect the same results.
Old bulbs can be used to get the girls used to UVB light in your veg area. I would not throw them away before 5000h are done.
Planet Tomato
Member
Since a while before I posted my last post I have had a cart ready at digikey which include the UVA LED start boards but I haven't managed to get that order done which is a good thing because I have re-thought my hole grow setup.
Before I continue I want to ask what you think about Solacure - Flower Power?
Sounds interesting but at the same time it does not agree with the viewpoints I have read in this thread, though they have an explanation for why it works(UVR8, haven't read about that yet but I will), check out the link, at the bottom of that page are several links to information about UV and cannabis, this is an example of those - "Explaining UV and Cannabis".
Solacure are expensive but if I decide to go for UVB in the end I might go this route and mount two of there lamps diagonally spanning lengthwise across two of the tents walls.
My current DIY COB LED Grow light was made with an large heatsink from an amplifier and 2 * 120mm PC fans(which was sold with incorrect specifications so they where way to weak) + 2 * xbox360 fan modules(each of which contains 2 fans but can't recall there name and now they are glued onto the heatsink with then print no longer visible).
I use a MeanWell_HLG-320H-C2800A driver to drive 2 * CXM-32, at the time I had so many things to think about that I thought that the best choice was the A model with it's built-in potentiometer but since then my ambition about my grow tent have grown as I got over the initial information overload and now I want a driver which I can adjust over a wider range than the A model can and I want to do it by a microcontroller generating a PWM signal which is level shifted to 0V -10V such as the B models require.
The switch through which the power to the heatsink fans failed which lead to one of the COBs burning out, I have soldered together a stack of TO-247 diodes connected in series which I then connected in series with the 1 remaining COB in order to raise the voltage drop to within the range for the driver so now I am running with a single CXM-32 COB.
But I have finished my first grow(more on that later) and so the single COB is suitable for my 2 new seedlings.
But I am not happy about the light distribution in the tent, 2 * CXM-32 create a 8 digit shape outside of which the light falls off drastically, and I have learned since I chose the CXM-32 that I would achieve a higher efficiency if I used other COBs and ran them softer, and if I bought a new driver and a new CXM-32 then I would almost have spent the money for which I originally paid for my build.
So I want to try and build a new COB grow light and I like to ask you for advice about that(maybe I should open another thread but this ties into this one).
I have also decided to build some kind of veg chamber to be placed on top of my current 60*60*170cm tent, and taking the carbon filter out of the large tent and put it into the small veg chamber which would be series-connected to the existing ventilation system thus allowing almost the full 170cm to be used for growing large plants(the heat from the LED driver(s) would be placed in a little space in between the 2 tents/chambers so the heat would be suitable for heating the veg chamber from below, there you would also find all the mains, wiring and power supplies for humidifier and so on and the power supply and main PCB of a extensive control system which I will tell you about in another thread, very exciting stuff). But then I would end up with buds further down the plant which wouldn't receive much light so I now plan to install strip lights in 2 of the tents corners alternatively diagonally across two of the tent walls to supply the lower buds with light.
Then I might as well use reptile strip lights(I don't know what those long 1 metre bulb like lamps are called in English) so that I introduce some UV.
My thoughts are to use 4 COBs each one mounted to 1 square PC style heatsink mounted on aluminium beams in a square in order to create a more uniform light distribution and then hang a reptile 50W or 75W IR bulb in the centre of the square to be used for what IR are used for(put them to sleep/wake them up faster).
My local hydro store have a very different take on UVB than the one I have received here, they tell me to do it "the Solecure way"(my words not there's).
From what I have been told here you would disagree?
(Tell me if you don't find understand with "the Solacure way" and I'll explain but I think it is covered in the first link at the beginning of this post).
This post is getting a bit long now but although I can find suggestions online for what the best COBs are the information I have seen thus far have been posted more than 3 years ago.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a COB model that could achieve up to around 250W - 300W combined over 4 COBs while resulting in a good enough efficiency?
One problem is that if I lived in the US I would know straight of the bat what/how to do but since I am far from the US I'll have to improvise, if I get 4 such square PC heatsinks then it should be easy enough to drill and tap holes to mount beams between them, on digikey I saw a 0,33°C/W heatsink in that PC heatsink shape but it was a little expensive, 3 times what those arctic... PC heatsinks cost, does anyone have a clue about the thermal specification for such PC heatsinks are generally?
I will make this page my browsers start up page so that I can be sure to return much more quickly...
Before I continue I want to ask what you think about Solacure - Flower Power?
Sounds interesting but at the same time it does not agree with the viewpoints I have read in this thread, though they have an explanation for why it works(UVR8, haven't read about that yet but I will), check out the link, at the bottom of that page are several links to information about UV and cannabis, this is an example of those - "Explaining UV and Cannabis".
Solacure are expensive but if I decide to go for UVB in the end I might go this route and mount two of there lamps diagonally spanning lengthwise across two of the tents walls.
My current DIY COB LED Grow light was made with an large heatsink from an amplifier and 2 * 120mm PC fans(which was sold with incorrect specifications so they where way to weak) + 2 * xbox360 fan modules(each of which contains 2 fans but can't recall there name and now they are glued onto the heatsink with then print no longer visible).
I use a MeanWell_HLG-320H-C2800A driver to drive 2 * CXM-32, at the time I had so many things to think about that I thought that the best choice was the A model with it's built-in potentiometer but since then my ambition about my grow tent have grown as I got over the initial information overload and now I want a driver which I can adjust over a wider range than the A model can and I want to do it by a microcontroller generating a PWM signal which is level shifted to 0V -10V such as the B models require.
The switch through which the power to the heatsink fans failed which lead to one of the COBs burning out, I have soldered together a stack of TO-247 diodes connected in series which I then connected in series with the 1 remaining COB in order to raise the voltage drop to within the range for the driver so now I am running with a single CXM-32 COB.
But I have finished my first grow(more on that later) and so the single COB is suitable for my 2 new seedlings.
But I am not happy about the light distribution in the tent, 2 * CXM-32 create a 8 digit shape outside of which the light falls off drastically, and I have learned since I chose the CXM-32 that I would achieve a higher efficiency if I used other COBs and ran them softer, and if I bought a new driver and a new CXM-32 then I would almost have spent the money for which I originally paid for my build.
So I want to try and build a new COB grow light and I like to ask you for advice about that(maybe I should open another thread but this ties into this one).
I have also decided to build some kind of veg chamber to be placed on top of my current 60*60*170cm tent, and taking the carbon filter out of the large tent and put it into the small veg chamber which would be series-connected to the existing ventilation system thus allowing almost the full 170cm to be used for growing large plants(the heat from the LED driver(s) would be placed in a little space in between the 2 tents/chambers so the heat would be suitable for heating the veg chamber from below, there you would also find all the mains, wiring and power supplies for humidifier and so on and the power supply and main PCB of a extensive control system which I will tell you about in another thread, very exciting stuff). But then I would end up with buds further down the plant which wouldn't receive much light so I now plan to install strip lights in 2 of the tents corners alternatively diagonally across two of the tent walls to supply the lower buds with light.
Then I might as well use reptile strip lights(I don't know what those long 1 metre bulb like lamps are called in English) so that I introduce some UV.
My thoughts are to use 4 COBs each one mounted to 1 square PC style heatsink mounted on aluminium beams in a square in order to create a more uniform light distribution and then hang a reptile 50W or 75W IR bulb in the centre of the square to be used for what IR are used for(put them to sleep/wake them up faster).
My local hydro store have a very different take on UVB than the one I have received here, they tell me to do it "the Solecure way"(my words not there's).
From what I have been told here you would disagree?
(Tell me if you don't find understand with "the Solacure way" and I'll explain but I think it is covered in the first link at the beginning of this post).
This post is getting a bit long now but although I can find suggestions online for what the best COBs are the information I have seen thus far have been posted more than 3 years ago.
Does anyone have any suggestions for a COB model that could achieve up to around 250W - 300W combined over 4 COBs while resulting in a good enough efficiency?
One problem is that if I lived in the US I would know straight of the bat what/how to do but since I am far from the US I'll have to improvise, if I get 4 such square PC heatsinks then it should be easy enough to drill and tap holes to mount beams between them, on digikey I saw a 0,33°C/W heatsink in that PC heatsink shape but it was a little expensive, 3 times what those arctic... PC heatsinks cost, does anyone have a clue about the thermal specification for such PC heatsinks are generally?
I will make this page my browsers start up page so that I can be sure to return much more quickly...
Planet Tomato
Member
I don't know about CO2, everyone has told me that I really have to dial in every other parameter before CO2 addition can work. I can't recall the name if the product but there is a UK produced cheap CO2 system for small grow tents, it is a canister which feels empty but contains CO2 and that is inserted into a plastic device which are controlled by a remote with which you can adjust how often it sprays CO2 and how many short bursts there are so you can adjust the CO2 in very small tents. it costs about £30.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Do you have access to Luminus CXM22? If yes, take 4 of them and an HLG-240H-54B and run them in parallel. Should be ~265w at the wall. With an HLG-320H-54B it would be ~320-335w. Parallel wiring is not an issue with CV/CC because when connected directly to LEDs, COBs or strips the driver switch to constant current mode. Most of the time the brightness difference is only a few percent if any; its not even visible.
But if you can order from digikey why not use efficient strips? Bridgelux EBgen2 are 175 and 180lm/w(3000 and 4000°k) and if you run 2ft strips(560mm) at nominal current(or just above) you would not need heavy heatsinks. EBgen2 2ft. is 19,5V/700mA and 20v/1050mA and only need heatsinks when driven at 1400mA. You would get much better coverage and penetration and could use a lower distance to the canopy. Not to mention the weight of the fixture without heatsinks and fans. An HLG-240H-20B + 12 EBgen2 strips would be ~260w net, 280w at the wall.
Flower Power bulbs are nice but I would only need a 2ft. bulb for such a small space. Two 4footers is way too much, believe me!!! You could also use a good reptile bulb with 2ft. length, 12 or 14% UVB/30% UVA. Would be a smaller T5HO fixture you could easily mount between the strips. I've use the Arcadia D3desert with 12% and they work great. Much easier to work with too because you do not have to be so careful that you burn the plants. Up to 6h in veg and up to 12h in flower are possible with such bulbs and there are much wider available.
Later you could switch to the more powerful Agromax pureUV when you can get one. They use exactly the same 24w fixture and ballast.
Planet Tomato
Member
I'm intrigued by the Bridgelux EBgen2, but I am also looking at the CXM-22 though it will probably take me a couple of days to work out two implementations to chose from(cost analysis) but when I have done that I will return.
I have never seen Bridgelux EBgen2 used before, do you have any suggestion for what to mount them on?
I guess simply some rigid material that aren't fragile enough to break, and non water absorbing.
I have never seen Bridgelux EBgen2 used before, do you have any suggestion for what to mount them on?
I guess simply some rigid material that aren't fragile enough to break, and non water absorbing.
Last edited:
Planet Tomato
Member
I found this great new thing called google that has lots and lots of answers to my question last posted...
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
With 2 and 4ft EBgen2 you need only a frame with a few crossbars to mount the strips on. I would use alli L-channels to create a siutable frame, add 2 additional crossbars and use self-cutting screws to mount the strips on. You can drive EBgen2 with up to 1050mA without heatsinks. Efficiency would go down to ~165 and 170lm/w or you drive them with 700mA and get 175/180lm/w.
Ledgardener has a few good wiring examples on his website, btw. With driver recommendations and a calculator tool.
Ledgardener has a few good wiring examples on his website, btw. With driver recommendations and a calculator tool.
Planet Tomato
Member
Ok, just so you know I haven't worked out the cost of both options that has been mentioned but I have decided that I will get 12 BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 from digikey, with ether a HLG-240H-20B or a HLG-320H-20B(since I will be adjusting the output with PWM although lately I have been leaning more towards a 12bit DAC with a op-amp to amplify the DAC's output voltage to 0V - 10V, which ever path I chose I will still be capable of pretty much 0% - 100%(or if the lowest is 5% or whatever) output adjustment and in that case I might spend a little bit more to get a higher power since I much rather have too much power than ever feeling that I should have gotten a little more even though 240W is probably overkill already).
Since I need to get aluminium in order to build the grow light I will probably go with the HLG-240H-20B though. Thank you very much for providing me with that solution I really really appreciate it.
Thus far I have only seen aluminium sheets used online but if what you write about have been done before then surely I'll find an example of it. Here comes a language barrier of sorts, I have never worked with metal construction before(apart from circuit boards and copper wire) and I haven't seen the EBgen2 modules in real life yet so I have a hard time translating your suggestion but I will continue to look online, if it have been done before I will find it for sure.
But in the mean time I'd like to ask what you think about my initial plan.
I had planned on getting a aluminium sheet of a maximum of 56cm * 56cm & 1mm thick and mount L beams around all 4 sides of that square in order to ensure that the sheet doesn't flex(It would probably be a little less than 56cm on one side) and then drill 4 holes in those L bars to be used for hanging the build. And make room for 2 handles to be mounted onto the upper-side of the sheet so that when I need to I can just grab on to those and lift the whole thing(maybe reinforce the sheet to make dead-certain no flexing can occur).
And also add a couple/few stand-offs so the panel can be put directly on the floor without damage to the LED's.
Those materials would cost that much money and especially if I would go with the higher power option then that 1mm thick aluminium sheet should provide some heat dissipation.
The width of the EBgen2 is 24mm,
12 * 24mm = 288mm;
560mm - 288mm = 272mm;
272mm should be more than enough space to cut a circular hole in the sheet through which a IR bulb would shine 15min before and after any grow-light ON-OFF or OFF-ON event as a trigger light.
Since I need to get aluminium in order to build the grow light I will probably go with the HLG-240H-20B though. Thank you very much for providing me with that solution I really really appreciate it.
Thus far I have only seen aluminium sheets used online but if what you write about have been done before then surely I'll find an example of it. Here comes a language barrier of sorts, I have never worked with metal construction before(apart from circuit boards and copper wire) and I haven't seen the EBgen2 modules in real life yet so I have a hard time translating your suggestion but I will continue to look online, if it have been done before I will find it for sure.
But in the mean time I'd like to ask what you think about my initial plan.
I had planned on getting a aluminium sheet of a maximum of 56cm * 56cm & 1mm thick and mount L beams around all 4 sides of that square in order to ensure that the sheet doesn't flex(It would probably be a little less than 56cm on one side) and then drill 4 holes in those L bars to be used for hanging the build. And make room for 2 handles to be mounted onto the upper-side of the sheet so that when I need to I can just grab on to those and lift the whole thing(maybe reinforce the sheet to make dead-certain no flexing can occur).
And also add a couple/few stand-offs so the panel can be put directly on the floor without damage to the LED's.
Those materials would cost that much money and especially if I would go with the higher power option then that 1mm thick aluminium sheet should provide some heat dissipation.
The width of the EBgen2 is 24mm,
12 * 24mm = 288mm;
560mm - 288mm = 272mm;
272mm should be more than enough space to cut a circular hole in the sheet through which a IR bulb would shine 15min before and after any grow-light ON-OFF or OFF-ON event as a trigger light.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I would spread the strips evenly on the sheet and use 4 cheap far-red diodes on star PCBs and one of the cheap 3x1w LED drivers from e3ay. Simply search e3ay for "3x 1w LED driver"(4-10v or so) you find them as cheap as 1$ and 5pcs 730nm 3w diodes(700mA max.) you can find for around 2$. 4 XP-E's would cost ~10-14$, btw!
A far-red diode needs 1,9-2,1v depending on manufacturer so you need 7,6-8,4v x 300mA thats ~2,5w net. On a 2x 2' area it would only need 5-10 minutes EoD to switch phytochrome far-red back to its inactive red state and put the girls into sleep mode. And you can also use it together with the mainlight if you want a bit more stretch. You need only a tiny bit far-red to see results especially for EoD treatments and 4pcs far-red diodes at 300mA are more than enough. Looks much cleaner as when you cut a big hole in the center, to place a bulb inside.
Pretty sure you can built it for less than 5$.
A far-red diode needs 1,9-2,1v depending on manufacturer so you need 7,6-8,4v x 300mA thats ~2,5w net. On a 2x 2' area it would only need 5-10 minutes EoD to switch phytochrome far-red back to its inactive red state and put the girls into sleep mode. And you can also use it together with the mainlight if you want a bit more stretch. You need only a tiny bit far-red to see results especially for EoD treatments and 4pcs far-red diodes at 300mA are more than enough. Looks much cleaner as when you cut a big hole in the center, to place a bulb inside.
Pretty sure you can built it for less than 5$.
INF Flux
Well-Known Member
Planet Tomato
Member
So I am looking for IR LED starboards and the 3x1W LED driver you mentioned(again great suggestions) but one thing is still unclear to me.
All I know is that I want wavelengths within the IR part of the spectrum but "IR" seems to have a broader meaning than other color names, as for red vs deep-red vs far-red I find sort of conflicting answers but what I want to know is this:
does it matters if I use around 650nm IR diodes or around 750nm IR diodes?
My gut feeling is to go with the 750nm(or there about).
Another aspect that I thought I had written off as a thing I shouldn't bother about(apparently I can't neglect it) is the question of the output spectrum's that are preferable for vegetative vs flowering stages, is there any real value in installing for example 10 star boards out of which 5 are red and 5 are blue, with the idea that during the vegetative stage the 5 blue ones are lit and during flowering the 5 red ones are lit to enhance or push the overall spectrum towards veg/bloom?
I'm not sure that I got it right but I think I understand that as far as trigger lights are concerned it isn't as much about the amount of IR light that the plant receives as it has more to do with the fact that the IR is present in one quantity or another(I vaguely recall reading something about ratios between IR and red or something similar).
Is it the same with the more blue'ish or more red'ish spectrum for veg/flower, in that it has more to do with the information given to the plant through the color spectrum, as opposed to the plant being able to utilize energy through the different colors during different times of it's life?
All I know is that I want wavelengths within the IR part of the spectrum but "IR" seems to have a broader meaning than other color names, as for red vs deep-red vs far-red I find sort of conflicting answers but what I want to know is this:
does it matters if I use around 650nm IR diodes or around 750nm IR diodes?
My gut feeling is to go with the 750nm(or there about).
Another aspect that I thought I had written off as a thing I shouldn't bother about(apparently I can't neglect it) is the question of the output spectrum's that are preferable for vegetative vs flowering stages, is there any real value in installing for example 10 star boards out of which 5 are red and 5 are blue, with the idea that during the vegetative stage the 5 blue ones are lit and during flowering the 5 red ones are lit to enhance or push the overall spectrum towards veg/bloom?
I'm not sure that I got it right but I think I understand that as far as trigger lights are concerned it isn't as much about the amount of IR light that the plant receives as it has more to do with the fact that the IR is present in one quantity or another(I vaguely recall reading something about ratios between IR and red or something similar).
Is it the same with the more blue'ish or more red'ish spectrum for veg/flower, in that it has more to do with the information given to the plant through the color spectrum, as opposed to the plant being able to utilize energy through the different colors during different times of it's life?
Planet Tomato
Member
I have no source of actual info that I can recall but I have a feeling that above 700nm red light is what I should go for.
I am now preparing for actually buying 12 * EBgen2 56cm but I can't see from the picture that INF flux posted nor from the datasheet how those connectors on the EBgen2 work. In the datasheet is says to use between 18 - 24 AWG but I don't want to just assume that the connectors are made to be hooked up with simply stripped wire in sizes 18 - 24 AWG. I also have a couple of questions related to my build/tent situation.
I am yet to buy the reptile bulbs but the best I can find feature around 12% UVB and I am just hoping that those 12% will contain some light around 285nm.
My first grow turned out really great by the way, considering it was my first grow ever I feel very pleased with the 55g harvest of quite high quality weed. I am by no means a weed connoisseur but I gave some to a guy who have been growing for 15 years who says he's very picky with the weed he smokes and he really liked it and said that he knows people who has been trying for decades without producing anything close to the quality of my first harvest. But I have a feeling that the people who actually deserves credit are RQS who has breed the strain. But I couldn't be happier although I foresee a larger harvest next time(not that I am doing this to produce quantity).
Why I brought that up is that I didn't have UV at all during that grow and apparently the results weren't all too shabby, but I know my self well enough to understand that I will never be able to settle for 'high-quality' when I think there are things I can do to increase the quality even more.
My next project or side project is to build a Rosin press, those kit's containing 2 aluminium slabs with heater elements and a PID temperature controller for each slab will make such a press very easy to build, I can get a manual press rated for 2 tons quite cheaply.
In case I haven't told you about it yet, I have tried to open a thread about it but I can't manage to write a text that isn't both long and quite confused and probably pretty strenuous to read describing the project but I am working on a complete tent system that will replace my currently used digital fan-speed controller as well as managing the turn-on and turn-off of all the lights(EBgen2, IR and UV), turning on the LED's slowly over e certain amount of time(same at turn-off), making speakers available for exposing the plants to music or birds-song, but most importantly it will regulate and maintain a Vapour Pressure Deficit(VPD) value within the tent.
Right now I am writing the code for a microcontroller to control the lights with hard-coded values for times for turn-on/turn-off of the LED, IR and UV but in the end I will make a user interface that will contain data logging by means of ether SD card or directly to a PC through Wifi or Bluetooth.
My ultimate hope is to be able to make a system and share the plans and code in a way which would allow others to use it for there own tent, though it will probably be a couple of years at least until I have gotten that far.
I am now preparing for actually buying 12 * EBgen2 56cm but I can't see from the picture that INF flux posted nor from the datasheet how those connectors on the EBgen2 work. In the datasheet is says to use between 18 - 24 AWG but I don't want to just assume that the connectors are made to be hooked up with simply stripped wire in sizes 18 - 24 AWG. I also have a couple of questions related to my build/tent situation.
- Are those connectors on the EBgen2 used with simply stripped 18 - 24 AWG wires?
- I have never worked with LED's using a driver that is both Constant Current and Constant Voltage, I know that someone wrote about it earlier in this thread but I want to make dead certain that I got this right: Do I really not need to put fuses in series with each of the 12 paralleled EBgen2 stripes?
- I have acquired a couple of 60cm T5 armatures which I plan to fit to the sides of the tent, they where first meant only as side lighting since I plan to grow my next plant much higher than my last one, which would mean that during flowering the buds further down would be far from the grow light and as such I wanted to install some kind of lighting further down on the sides of the tent. But since there are T5 sized reptile bulbs I will use 2 of those, one on each side on the plant. But a person whom admitted that he didn't know suggested that supplying UV from anything but straight above could be bad. Would someone here agree with that or better yet disagree with UV supplementation from the side being a bad idea?
I am yet to buy the reptile bulbs but the best I can find feature around 12% UVB and I am just hoping that those 12% will contain some light around 285nm.
My first grow turned out really great by the way, considering it was my first grow ever I feel very pleased with the 55g harvest of quite high quality weed. I am by no means a weed connoisseur but I gave some to a guy who have been growing for 15 years who says he's very picky with the weed he smokes and he really liked it and said that he knows people who has been trying for decades without producing anything close to the quality of my first harvest. But I have a feeling that the people who actually deserves credit are RQS who has breed the strain. But I couldn't be happier although I foresee a larger harvest next time(not that I am doing this to produce quantity).
Why I brought that up is that I didn't have UV at all during that grow and apparently the results weren't all too shabby, but I know my self well enough to understand that I will never be able to settle for 'high-quality' when I think there are things I can do to increase the quality even more.
My next project or side project is to build a Rosin press, those kit's containing 2 aluminium slabs with heater elements and a PID temperature controller for each slab will make such a press very easy to build, I can get a manual press rated for 2 tons quite cheaply.
In case I haven't told you about it yet, I have tried to open a thread about it but I can't manage to write a text that isn't both long and quite confused and probably pretty strenuous to read describing the project but I am working on a complete tent system that will replace my currently used digital fan-speed controller as well as managing the turn-on and turn-off of all the lights(EBgen2, IR and UV), turning on the LED's slowly over e certain amount of time(same at turn-off), making speakers available for exposing the plants to music or birds-song, but most importantly it will regulate and maintain a Vapour Pressure Deficit(VPD) value within the tent.
Right now I am writing the code for a microcontroller to control the lights with hard-coded values for times for turn-on/turn-off of the LED, IR and UV but in the end I will make a user interface that will contain data logging by means of ether SD card or directly to a PC through Wifi or Bluetooth.
My ultimate hope is to be able to make a system and share the plans and code in a way which would allow others to use it for there own tent, though it will probably be a couple of years at least until I have gotten that far.