Help Plan 4X4X4 ft DWC ScrOG Box

So I'm doing a 360 degree ScrOG box once my current grow is all harvested; I wasn't sure what to call it, because I don't think that anyone has quite done this before. This is a plan I've been developing and changing for some three years, but I need help from my RIU friends to change it from theory to practice. The dimensions will actually be 4'2"X4'2"X4'2" so that the furthest that the bulb will be from the foliage will be 35", and the closest the bulb will be (except for late flowering, when the flowers will grow up from the screen of course) is 25". I'm hoping to have 2000W of light in there, one 1000W HPS and another 1000W MH. What this totals up to is over 17 square feet of screen per side, but I need to be able to access all the sides to LST them. So, what I plan on doing is growing up either side, along the bottom, AND along the top. Growing down from the top is going to be the tough part, but its partly for the experimental bit of it that really attracts me to the idea. My plan ATM is to LST the plants that will be on top horizontally to the sides of their DWC boxes, and then LST them straight down. Once they reach the bottoms of the boxes, there should be more than enough light for them.

Now, let's just say that that creates 16 sq ft, to be conservative, of screen for the ScrOG. And let's say that we harvest 1 oz from each sq ft-- also really conservative, especially considering it's going to be DWC and there's going to be 1000W of mixed spectrum, which is a hell of a lot for that small space. That's a 62 oz harvest, or almost 4 pounds-- at a REALLY conservative estimate. If this works out well, I will definitely be using some of the profits to invest in CO2 injection equipment as well, and at optimum, I truly believe I could be harvesting 2 oz / sq ft of very high quality, or about 8 pounds every 4 months. Give me your opinions, tips, what have you! One of my issues is that I am totally willing to cooltube my HPS, but I don't really want to cooltube the MH, because the main reason I want to use it is the UVB, which from what I've read would be greatly reduced by the cooltube.

Wow, not sure I understand exactly how this works but it sounds intense. Only concern I would have with this would be getting enough ventilation going inside to prevent the growth of powdery mildew. As far as the MH bulb goes, do you think lining it up with the end of the cool tube the HPS is in would help? That way the air would have to move past the MH then into the tube, hopefully cooling the bulb a bit. Or would either stepping down to a 600w MH or cool tubing the MH and adding a UVB reptile bulb help at all? I've never worked with those high wattage bulbs, just a thought.

I've never had much of an issue with powdery mildew before, but if I install a dehumidifier, would that eliminate the risk? I figured I would just set up an oscillating fan on the far side of the box, I also have a ton of mini fans about the same power as those PC fans which I figured I could scatter all about the area. I wish I had InDesign on this computer so I could illustrate this, hopefully the people who read this thread are good visualizers >.<

I put a 1k in a 4 x 4 x 4' space inside a water cooled reflector. while I could keep it cool, I could not keep the tops from bleaching. It was just simply too much light. In my experience 1000 watt lamps work better when they are about 30' away. I didn't belive that you could have too much light, but you can.

REALLY? Wow... And yours was water-cooled!
I was basing my information off of a widely-used chart, the one with all the colors, that states that a 1000W MH should be kept within 32" and an HPS within 36" for optimal effectiveness. The chart also claims that 20" would be fine, which is about how close I would expect the closest tops to be, and I've been grilled by snobs so much about keeping my lights WITHIN 30" of the foliage. Well, now I may have to reformat my entire design. Shit.

Well, how close were the bleached tops? If you can recall, it would help me a lot. This should be built within 4 weeks from now. Thanks man.

I just switched to 600's and find that they work better in a tight space. I don't know what the percentages are, but it sure seems like my 3 600's generate 1/2 the heat of 2 1k's and because I'm able to keep them quite a bit closer, they are still getting an above average dose of artificial light.

I have had buds literally touching the glass before with what appeared to be no ill effects. But after a few rounds I started noticing that the plants that were 30-36" away were healthier and produced tighter buds. the ones that are too close are much more stressed and as a result didn;t have the chance to develop the colors and flavor of the others.

Just my experience. I almost think that the frescas magnify the light a bit so your milage may vary. running w/o a reflector will allow you to reduce the distance too.

Frescas, is that slang for cooltubes? I will be running without a reflector of course, to be able to achieve that 360 degree light. I know alotta peeps like the 600's but I already spent $600 on the 1000's, so that's where we're at >.<

Fresca sol is the water cooled fixture that I use. It is like a cooltube, inside a cooltube with water running between the 2 tubes. I bet you can get your plants 24" away from a 1k without a reflector. Do some searches on Vertical gardens for some first hand experiences. there's also a site called verticalgreen.org which is dedicated to this style of growing. I haven't done what you are describing and was only passing my experiences along. I know there are quite a few growers out there doing it this way that will be able to give a more first hand opinion on this.