I'm using JR Peters. Much, much cheaper
which product is this? can you tell me how your making your nutrients if your using hydroponics
I'm using Jack’s Professional 5-12-26 Hydroponic (3 tbsp) and 15-0-0 Calcium Nitrate (3 tbsp), along with Epson salts (1/2 tbsp) in 40 gallons of RO water to get a solution of 530PPM. Adjust strength to get whatever concentration you need. I mix the ingredients in 1-1/2 gallons of hot water and then add it to the reservoir. Here's a link to their website: http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Hydroponics/Buy-Hydroponics.html This is my first grow with their products, so I can't tell you what the final results are, but they seem to be progressing as well as they did using other products that cost a lot more. $54 and there seems to be enough for at least six grows, maybe a lot more. You can't get one bottle of the cannabis specific concoctions for that price, and you'll need at least two. I got 8oz of Jack’s Classic 10-30-20 Blossom Booster ($6) to induce flowering for one week, but I'm told that wasn't necessary, that magnesium salts would work just as well. All fertilizers have the same ingredients, you just have to buy a lot of different "enhancers" to get them and pay a ton for them adding water and putting fancy labels on them. Hope this helps you.
yes thats the kinda answer i was looking for thanks,, is there a reason you ppm runs so low,, we usually run our at about 1300 with a total ppm of 1600 from the water?
That was on the 0.5 scale, I should have mentioned that. So that would be about 750ppm on the 0.7 scale. I have found pushing the PPMs too high burns the plants. Where I'm at seems to be enough and doesn't risk nute burn. I started at 300 PPM, with 30 gallons changing every week until recently and have increased it about 100 PPM every rez change..I transplanted them into the hydro system 1-25-2015. My RO water registers 40 PPM, and that is with whatever residue is left in the chiller and maybe 16ozs leftover in the bottom of the reservoir. I have two 38 gallon trash cans I store the water in before use and that registers 0 PPM.
Doesn't that cause wild swings in pH levels? Also, how can you be sure what mineral is causing the "hardness" in your tap water? If it was, say iron, wouldn't that method fail?
It was a hypothetical question. If the water actually had a red tint, it would have to be somewhere around 50,000 PPM! Or have Fox Farm nutes in it. Doesn't using pH down to remove carbonates cause your pH to swing wildly?
