Help! Leafs dying

Mr.Milkyvay

New Member
Hi, yeah after some short research, I'd say it's a calcium problem... how close are your lights to the canopy?

I've been a little curious about the Sweet Tooth auto I have.. it's in the 3rd week of flower, I noticed the pistils are drying up and dying off... is that normal? The yield doesn't look too promising but it's still a little too early to tell.. it looks happy and healthy besides that
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
Ranging from 16-19 inches on all colas.
Hopefully it's a true cal deficiency and not lockout from the flower nutes like I'm thinking.
And I dont know much about the cycle of autos, but typically pistils turning color isnt normal till atleast 5 weeks into flower, and almost all of them should change about a week before harvest. (Some strains still have lots of white ones after harvest)
Have you touched them at all? Pistils are very very very sensitive, just tapping one with your finger could cause it to shrivel up and die.
If there is no other noticeable symptoms showing with the pistils turning color, I wouldn't worry about it much as long as new pistils are coming out
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
Hi, yeah after some short research, I'd say it's a calcium problem... how close are your lights to the canopy?

I've been a little curious about the Sweet Tooth auto I have.. it's in the 3rd week of flower, I noticed the pistils are drying up and dying off... is that normal? The yield doesn't look too promising but it's still a little too early to tell.. it looks happy and healthy besides that
And I'm not sure how experienced you are, but around 3 weeks not many strains will appear to have promising yields (when referring to actual bud development and size).
If your referring to quantity of bud sites, or mass of plant, you very well may be correct.
These white widows kept stretching till about week 4 with small buds, and in the last 5 days has produced 80% of its bud mass
 

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Mr.Milkyvay

New Member
Thanks, sounds like you're right... It's about the same problem you have, only the pistils directly at the very top are the ones drying up, right below a few sugar leaves the other pistils are fine. Anyway, I'm really more curious when the buds will start to fatten up... it could take another week or 2 since I guess, it's just around the 3rd week of flower
 

Mr.Milkyvay

New Member
And I'm not sure how experienced you are, but around 3 weeks not many strains will appear to have promising yields (when referring to actual bud development and size).
If your referring to quantity of bud sites, or mass of plant, you very well may be correct.
These white widows kept stretching till about week 4 with small buds, and in the last 5 days has produced 80% of its bud mass
I'm probably a total noob compared to the rest of you guys. The only experience I've had is 10+ years of landscaping in Germany. Cannabis has been an interesting new hobby since I moved back Stateside
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
Yeah they should be alright then man.
And most strains, right around week 4 is when you'll notice them really fattening up. Youll know the very day the stretch is over, and they start putting all their energy Into budding if you watch them close enough
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
I'm probably a total noob compared to the rest of you guys. The only experience I've had is 10+ years of landscaping in Germany. Cannabis has been an interesting new hobby since I moved back Stateside
I've only been through a couple of grows and I still feel like a complete noob also lol.
I've got hundreds of hours of research, but I learn everyday, that when it comes to this, an hour of experience outweighs many hours of research
 

Mr.Milkyvay

New Member
Yeah they should be alright then man.
And most strains, right around week 4 is when you'll notice them really fattening up. Youll know the very day the stretch is over, and they start putting all their energy Into budding if you watch them close enough
Thanks Man, I appreciate it... I'd like to give you some helpful advice with your problem but it sounds like you've already done everything to try and correct it. So, you'll just have to sit back and keep an eye on them.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
If you don't have any flowers yet, spray the plant down with some dilute kelp or compost tea. Especially the bad leaves.
This will boost the plant's immune system.

As far as calcium management goes. It is normally not a problem in veg. unless you veg for like 8 weeks. But if you do a 21-day veg.
Just add a bit of bonemeal with the coco when you pot it up the last time before flipping. You won't need calmag addition all of bloom, unless you run osmosis filters.
just a light sprinkle of epsom salts, and do what your feed tells you to.

Do not skip flushing when the chart instructs you to.
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
Why coco and soil? This is contradictory to itself. Pick 1 medium and stick with it.
Coco needs to be fed with each watering, where soil is fed, usually every third watering or so.

SH420
It's a controversial subject man. I've read a lot saying that it's a good mix, but in my personal experience it's not too great. I dont plant to use again
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
If you don't have any flowers yet, spray the plant down with some dilute kelp or compost tea. Especially the bad leaves.
This will boost the plant's immune system.

As far as calcium management goes. It is normally not a problem in veg. unless you veg for like 8 weeks. But if you do a 21-day veg.
Just add a bit of bonemeal with the coco when you pot it up the last time before flipping. You won't need calmag addition all of bloom, unless you run osmosis filters.
just a light sprinkle of epsom salts, and do what your feed tells you to.

Do not skip flushing when the chart instructs you to.
Cant you see them all in the pictures? I think I'm way too far In for any foliar feeding, and this far in with 70+% humidity daily would probably be very dangerous
Thanks though
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
You guys positive this doesnt look like a fungus or mold?
It came out of no where. Everything looked healthy for the most part and then I open up the tent today and I was completely shocked. Didnt realize anything could take over that quickly. And considering my humidity has been running insanely high lately that it had to be a fungus or mold.
If it's not, then I'm not too worried, cause any nutrient problems can be worked with. But I just cant imagine a nutrient problem hitting so quickly. And you'd thing any deficiencies would affect the lower leafs first. Well any of the mobile nutrients. Not sure if calcium is one
Maybe you guys are right..
Only the leafs exposed to light are getting like that, and the ones closest to the light are the most severe...
Just about 3 days ago, I did feed with flower feed. And my flower feed lowers my waters ph so much it's ridiculous (to about 4)
Its organic so its suppose to buffer or whatever, but apparantly it's not.
All these brown spots have showed up gradually, (probably because of the very minor flowering freds I have given)
And now it must have just went crazy because I gave it a heavy feeding which must have dropped my ph down, and took a couple days for the cut off of calcium to hit.
Sound like a pretty sound theory??
Dude this problem didn't happen quickly you've been posting about these brown spots forming for at least 2-2 weeks now. I told you 2 weeks ago your plants were hungry and needed to be fed but you were afraid to do that.

You are making all sorts of uneducated guesses about what is wrong with your plants. Deficiencies don't always hit the lower growth first. Zinc deficiencies I believe are known to start at the top.

Your assuming a nutrient problem won't happen that fast, instead of realizing how slowly its been happening. Your assuming that feeding them locked them out instead of accepting that they are starving and eating themselves slowly. They likely have a few things doing on here.

PH could totally be an issue. I stopped using electronic PH testers a long time ago, I use the little drops and they work fine. You can get them at aquarium stores or grow shops. My nutes drop my PH to, so before I add my nutes to my water I add some PH up to balance that. Then once my nutrients are mixed they stay pretty stable since I set the ph to begin with. Adding the ph up before you add the nutes is important so you don't precipitate the nutrients.

I believe they are starving for Calcium, and potassium. Your leaves match those deficiency symptoms pretty well. The feed you gave them very well might help slow the decline but you can't repair it. Your plants are in the heart of flowering, they are needing more food to succeed. If you starve them they will die.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Andromeda,
To add to your theory making process...Ca (unlike N for example) is not so mobile in the plant. It's carried upward with the water inside the stem. So if you overfed and the spots appeared...it makes sense. And also because the damage is on top of plant...that makes sense since the nutrients were being carried upward. So stop overfeeding.
JD


PS The no straight water is a coco thing...with soil coco mix you're ok to use just water (my mistake)
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Andromeda,
To add to your theory making process...Ca (unlike N for example) is not so mobile in the plant. It's carried upward with the water inside the stem. So if you overfed and the spots appeared...it makes sense. And also because the damage is on top of plant...that makes sense since the nutrients were being carried upward. So stop overfeeding.
JD
PS The no straight water is a coco thing...with soil coco mix you're ok to use just water (my mistake)
He has only fed them 2-3 total times in this entire grow with low concentration nutrients. It doesn't seem possible to me he has been overfeeding them. The problem has progressed consistently in line with when the plants started heavily budding and needing more food.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
He has only fed them 2-3 total times in this entire grow with low concentration nutrients. It doesn't seem possible to me he has been overfeeding them. The problem has progressed consistently in line with when the plants started heavily budding and needing more food.
OK cool...I was just reponding to the idea that this all occurred fairly suddenly after a feeding. Not really sure exactly what's goin' on.
JD
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
Dude this problem didn't happen quickly you've been posting about these brown spots forming for at least 2-2 weeks now. I told you 2 weeks ago your plants were hungry and needed to be fed but you were afraid to do that.

You are making all sorts of uneducated guesses about what is wrong with your plants. Deficiencies don't always hit the lower growth first. Zinc deficiencies I believe are known to start at the top.

Your assuming a nutrient problem won't happen that fast, instead of realizing how slowly its been happening. Your assuming that feeding them locked them out instead of accepting that they are starving and eating themselves slowly. They likely have a few things doing on here.

PH could totally be an issue. I stopped using electronic PH testers a long time ago, I use the little drops and they work fine. You can get them at aquarium stores or grow shops. My nutes drop my PH to, so before I add my nutes to my water I add some PH up to balance that. Then once my nutrients are mixed they stay pretty stable since I set the ph to begin with. Adding the ph up before you add the nutes is important so you don't precipitate the nutrients.

I believe they are starving for Calcium, and potassium. Your leaves match those deficiency symptoms pretty well. The feed you gave them very well might help slow the decline but you can't repair it. Your plants are in the heart of flowering, they are needing more food to succeed. If you starve them they will die.
It didnt happen out of no where huh?
That's why 90% of the leafs that didnt have brown spots because brownish/dried out overnight, and the ones with the brown spots were the least affected?
That sounds pretty out of no where to me.
And I fed them twice since you commented on my last thing, AND top dressed them with about 3 inches of fresh soil, and things rapidly escalated over night? But still must be underfed?
If that was the case they would have shown improvement by now, or at the very least any damage would have slowed down.
Yeah they're probably starving for nutrients, but not because there is a lack of them, they're locked out.
And unedaucated guesses huh?
That's why I literally stated every reason for my assumptions in a previous post.
Dont come on here tell me I'm wrong and your right.
I dont understand why some people on this forum get so damn butthurt and upset when someone doesnt automatically agree with them, or when their answers might be incorrect.
And in no way am I saying your wrong, but based on everything (the information I am processing visually in person), nutrients being locked out is far more likely than lack of nutrients in the soil especially considering things rapidly going down hill post feeding.
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
He has only fed them 2-3 total times in this entire grow with low concentration nutrients. It doesn't seem possible to me he has been overfeeding them. The problem has progressed consistently in line with when the plants started heavily budding and needing more food.
And yes I believe you're 100% correct on the display of calcium deficiency, and minor potassium. But unlike calcium, potassium is a mobile nutrient and any signs of it would display on the lower leafs first. Almost every single lower leaf is completely fine and green, except for occasionally an older one yellows up and turns pinkish, which is definitely a sign of potassium def.
My flowering nute are apparantly complete garbage because they lower my ph to 4 or lower, and no matter how much ph up I add, it wont correct them. I added over 20ml one time to a gallon of feed at 1/4th strength and it barely rose it to 6. But they are also organic flowering nutes which supposedly dont require any ph adjusting but again, apparently they do.
I aerated my feed for a few hours before using to attempt to raise/stabilize ph but I guess it comes down to the nutrients being horrible quality, or maybe a bad bottle of them.
I'm going to try to get new flower nutrients, but it's almost past worrying about that. In about 2 more weeks they wont need any more nutrients till harvest
 

AndromedaM31

Active Member
Andromeda,
To add to your theory making process...Ca (unlike N for example) is not so mobile in the plant. It's carried upward with the water inside the stem. So if you overfed and the spots appeared...it makes sense. And also because the damage is on top of plant...that makes sense since the nutrients were being carried upward. So stop overfeeding.
JD


PS The no straight water is a coco thing...with soil coco mix you're ok to use just water (my mistake)
I haven't given any specific calcium nutrients, only micro nute has been a little bit of magnesium via epsom salt
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Andremada,

So then aren't we back to Ca deficiency? Maybe switch from epsom salts to calmag.
JD
 
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