heat removal arguments

WeeGogs

Active Member
i have listened to the heat removal arguments from every angle so i have decided that i am going to draw heat through a 6 inch fan through my 4 x 600w air cooled shades in to my house during the day and draw the growroom smells/heat up the chimney through a separate 6" fan which hopefully will be cooler, and, .............. with a carbon filter i may add.

any drawbacks i will be in jail.

they love to use infra-red copters where i live.


i live in a cold place.
 

Frasuelo

Member

  • they have a great contact insulation that blocks radiant energy i.e. heat or cool. LOWES or Home Depot, rolls out takes up very little space and isnt expensive well not lawyer expensive.
    Stay Down on This​



 

mr2shim

Well-Known Member
Are you in Canada because I know they are Federally illegal in the States.

In 2001, the United States Supreme Court decided that performing surveillance of private property (ostensibly to detect high emission grow lights used in clandestine marijuana farming) using thermal imaging cameras without a search warrant by law enforcement violates the Fourth Amendment's protection from unreasonable searches and seizures. Kyllo v. United States, 533 U.S. 27, 121 S.Ct. 2038, 150 L.Ed.2d 94 (2001).
Which IMO they shouldn't be allowed to do that in the first place, because what is stopping someone from growing chilli peppers indoors?
 

WeeGogs

Active Member
Are you in Canada because I know they are Federally illegal in the States.



Which IMO they shouldn't be allowed to do that in the first place, because what is stopping someone from growing chilli peppers indoors?
do you know anybody that grows chilli pepers indoors using high powered lighting that costs the earth to run.

i didn`t think so.

no.
this is typical of the united states.

they will allow you to have guns on the streets.
a gun is ok until the person that owns it gets pissed off and wants to empty all his ammunition in to the nearest crowd of innocent victims.

why not cannabis farms for christ sake its only cannabis farms.

if they cannot search for cannabis farms then huge hidden plantations will reach the streets.
 

209 Cali closet grower

Well-Known Member
do you know anybody that grows chilli pepers indoors using high powered lighting that costs the earth to run.

i didn`t think so.


no.
this is typical of the united states.

they will allow you to have guns on the streets.
a gun is ok until the person that owns it gets pissed off and wants to empty all his ammunition in to the nearest crowd of innocent victims.

why not cannabis farms for christ sake its only cannabis farms.

if they cannot search for cannabis farms then huge hidden plantations will reach the streets.
lol, i do, and tomatoes, too now
 

ataxia

Well-Known Member
two six inches sound ok ....but wouldn't you want to be sucking more air from 4 x 600s to reduce your heat signature?? I'd say swap one of the fans out for an 8 inch at least .... but .... better advice could be on the way. just my two cents.
 

cues

Well-Known Member
So far this year I have grown 2 types of toms, 2 types chillies, aubergine, cucumber and basil in mine. I use it as a nursery bed for the garden but do grow some chillies to maturity in there. Next years project is going to be 'Bonchi', bonsai chilli. I'm currently growing 1 weed plant but it's a rare occurence.
The chimney/air cooled fan idea is brilliant. If you're burning 2400w and living in a cold country, why not use it. You will just need to make sure you have adequate air-exchange in the room for co2.
OK, now here's a thought. If this is a 12-hour flower area, could it be split into 2, running 1200w each without light-bleed? The 2 areas could be 'flip-flopped' on the light and the airflow could be run continously between the grow spaces through a filter. You would have halve the heat running out of the chimney (although for 24 hours instead of 12)
The point of the continuous fan is that you will have air pulled from the 'day' side of the grow, providing warmth and oxygen for the 'night-side' of the grow and vice-versa. The night-side of the grow would be cooling the air and providing Co2
 

mr2shim

Well-Known Member
do you know anybody that grows chilli pepers indoors using high powered lighting that costs the earth to run.

i didn`t think so.

no.
this is typical of the united states.

they will allow you to have guns on the streets.
a gun is ok until the person that owns it gets pissed off and wants to empty all his ammunition in to the nearest crowd of innocent victims.

why not cannabis farms for christ sake its only cannabis farms.

if they cannot search for cannabis farms then huge hidden plantations will reach the streets.
I actually do. There is an entire forum dedicated to people growing tomatos indoors with very similar setups to mine. You should research before you start to type. But from reading your other posts it seems like your thing to post completely incorrect information.
 

scooby419

Active Member
OK, now here's a thought. If this is a 12-hour flower area, could it be split into 2, running 1200w each without light-bleed? The 2 areas could be 'flip-flopped' on the light and the airflow could be run continously between the grow spaces through a filter. You would have halve the heat running out of the chimney (although for 24 hours instead of 12)
The point of the continuous fan is that you will have air pulled from the 'day' side of the grow, providing warmth and oxygen for the 'night-side' of the grow and vice-versa. The night-side of the grow would be cooling the air and providing Co2
I almost did that with mine. It was just next to impossible to make it light proof between the 2 in the space that I am confined to. The reason I was going to set up 2 different flowering rooms beside each other was to keep a continuous power consumption. No big draws for 12 hours and then off for 12 hours. My usage would have been remained constant over a 24 hour cycle. Also no power surge when all the lights kick on at once.

If it's cold where you live I don't think anyone will get suspicious over some heat coming out of your chimney. Good luck man!
 

choop

Well-Known Member
i am going to draw heat through a 6 inch fan through my 4 x 600w air cooled shades in to my house ...

a good tip which may cost you an extra few dollars but will be worth it is to do the following:

instead of connecting all 4 of your lights in one long row of ducting, connect ducting from light 1 to light 2 and then separately, connect ducting from light 3 to light 4. next, get a ducting flange that merges 2 ducts into 1. if you set it up the way i'm describing, lights 2 and 4 will converge into one main exhaust duct. this will prevent your 3rd and 4th lights from being hotter than the first 2, since the air will be quite warm by the time it reaches the 3rd and 4th lights. it would look something like the following

light > duct > light \
........................... >>duct->>exhaust
light > duct > light /

did the diagram make sense?
 

WeeGogs

Active Member
a good tip which may cost you an extra few dollars but will be worth it is to do the following:

instead of connecting all 4 of your lights in one long row of ducting, connect ducting from light 1 to light 2 and then separately, connect ducting from light 3 to light 4. next, get a ducting flange that merges 2 ducts into 1. if you set it up the way i'm describing, lights 2 and 4 will converge into one main exhaust duct. this will prevent your 3rd and 4th lights from being hotter than the first 2, since the air will be quite warm by the time it reaches the 3rd and 4th lights. it would look something like the following

light > duct > light \
........................... >>duct->>exhaust
light > duct > light /

did the diagram make sense?
that is a fkn brilliant idea, so if i bring a single duct to a y branch, then two ducts to the two front lights and then through to the rear two and than back in to a single duct then the last light in a line of 4 wont be red hot.

your a fucking star.

thanks mate.

i also have another problem i am going to cut my sewer roof vent pipe in my attic and fit a durgo valve (air admittance valve) to vent the sewer, but it is only 4" and my lights fan is a 6" in line duct fan, will it be able to suck enough air through the top half of that 4" pipe coming from the roof, or will i be better to suck half from the pipe and half from the outer attic ( i am building a sealed room in the attic )
not forgetting i also have another 6" fan that i need to use to extract spent air from the growroom.
 

choop

Well-Known Member
i also have another problem i am going to cut my sewer roof vent pipe in my attic and fit a durgo valve (air admittance valve) to vent the sewer, but it is only 4" and my lights fan is a 6" in line duct fan, will it be able to suck enough air through the top half of that 4" pipe coming from the roof, or will i be better to suck half from the pipe and half from the outer attic ( i am building a sealed room in the attic )
not forgetting i also have another 6" fan that i need to use to extract spent air from the growroom.
if i'm hearing you correctly, it sounds like youre looking for a 6 inch to 4 inch duct reducer? they sell em around here for like $10 a pop but its a really handy and nifty little thing. i'm using two on either end of my 6 inch cool tube because i bought 4 inch duct since it was cheaper and my tent is small.. there are pics on my journal linked in my sig if you wanna see if what i am talking about is what you are also thinking of.
 

scooby419

Active Member
i also have another problem i am going to cut my sewer roof vent pipe in my attic and fit a durgo valve (air admittance valve) to vent the sewer, but it is only 4" and my lights fan is a 6" in line duct fan, will it be able to suck enough air through the top half of that 4" pipe coming from the roof, or will i be better to suck half from the pipe and half from the outer attic ( i am building a sealed room in the attic )
not forgetting i also have another 6" fan that i need to use to extract spent air from the growroom.
I think you will be fine with the 4". The nice thing is that your 4" pipe is smooth which allows better/smoother air flow than flexible ducting which creates turbulence. I would just use an adapter as close to the vent pipe as possible and jump up to 6" to run to your lights.
 
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