Heat Issues? Light Bleaching? (pics)

ettubrutus · Dec 24, 2008

ok... about 21 days into this grow... this is a skunk #11 plant...

Lights at 8" (air cooled hood), canopy temps 81F, night time temps about 65F... pH is about 6.7... no nutes, just clean water right now... Ocean Forest soil... seeds were germed in peat moss pellets... this symptom only started the last day or so... pics below...

Boneman · Dec 24, 2008

They might be getting too cold at night but 65 is pretty good. hmmmmm maybe move the light up a tad and see if that helps?

ettubrutus · Dec 24, 2008

Boneman said:
They might be getting too cold at night but 65 is pretty good. hmmmmm maybe move the light up a tad and see if that helps?

yeah, I backed it off an inch and a half... she didn't start having weird issues until the last inch... the temps at the canopy are still around 81F... I am trying to keep them as tight and dense as possible, so no unnecessary stretching if possible...

ettubrutus · Dec 25, 2008

I decided that instead of worrying about it, that I would just go ahead and top her instead

so, it's a miracle, no visible issues with the plant now

runsfromdacops · Dec 25, 2008

is that ph all little on the high side? i thoght 5.8-6.2 was where you wanted to be.

smokeybandit22 · Dec 25, 2008

looks like early symptoms of overwatering/saturated root zone/not enough o2

autotek500 · Dec 25, 2008

I agree with smokey......over watering........

smokeybandit22 · Dec 25, 2008

is that a drip line you are using to feed?

ettubrutus · Dec 25, 2008

smokeybandit22 said:
is that a drip line you are using to feed?

yeah, that's a line going into a drip bubbler... I don't think it's overwatering, the irrigation runs for about a minute every 42 hours (it's about 750ml of water)... the pots never sit in their own runoff, the soil is full of perlite and the pots all have 2" of rocks in the bottom to help improve drainage.

I have four plants, this one had the issue on just one set of fan leaves... I am not sure if anything else is going on...

ettubrutus · Dec 25, 2008

runsfromdacops said:
is that ph all little on the high side? i thoght 5.8-6.2 was where you wanted to be.

I pretty much try to keep the pH of the soil runoff around 6.5... seems to have worked in the past...

smokeybandit22 · Dec 25, 2008

has to be the nutes in the soil getting flushed out quicker than without u r soil/hydro or 'sodro'. thats nute burn. leaf tip contorting-overfert of n, burning worsened if using mh.
or could be not enough 02 in the root zone for this sensitive early warning sign plant.

why use the soil?

ettubrutus · Dec 25, 2008

Soil is about 10000x less maintenance than just about any other method I can think of...

ettubrutus · Jan 13, 2009

couple more pictures...the problem went away for just about 2.5 weeks (you can see all the healthy leaves)

It's still Skunk #11, this developed very very quickly over the past two days... last and only feeding was 7 days ago... 1/2 dose organic nutes... 30-day flush was 2 days ago...

Does nute burn go from the inside out on some plants?

OldBastard · Jan 15, 2009

ettubrutus said:
couple more pictures...the problem went away for just about 2.5 weeks (you can see all the healthy leaves)

It's still Skunk #11, this developed very very quickly over the past two days... last and only feeding was 7 days ago... 1/2 dose organic nutes... 30-day flush was 2 days ago...

Does nute burn go from the inside out on some plants?

That resebles a magnesium deficiency. Have you tried a little epsom salts? (stopping in from IC mag)

smokeybandit22 · Jan 15, 2009

looks liek could be an immobile nute def/lockout seeing it is the new growth that is affected. epsom salts cant really hurt as long as u dont over do it. but could also be FE as well. Is that spotting on those new leafs?

ettubrutus · Jan 16, 2009

smokeybandit22 said:
looks liek could be an immobile nute def/lockout seeing it is the new growth that is affected. epsom salts cant really hurt as long as u dont over do it. but could also be FE as well. Is that spotting on those new leafs?

I think you might be right man... I may very well have screwed up my pH the last time I fed... things seem to be good now... I hope

smokeybandit22 · Jan 16, 2009

you can add a small layer of fine dolomite lime to the top layer of soil- will help keep the ph buffered over time and provide extra mg and ca which most indoor gardens need

ettubrutus · Jan 17, 2009

smokeybandit22 said:
you can add a small layer of fine dolomite lime to the top layer of soil- will help keep the ph buffered over time and provide extra mg and ca which most indoor gardens need

Does Baking Soda have any nutritional value? I've been using it as a base in my feeding solution...

smokeybandit22 · Jan 17, 2009

I only know it can be used for ph up but if u have been using this all along I would swap it out to see if a diff can be noticed. looking back again, the old pics show nute burn, ruling out ur rootzone problem as u seems to have that situated.
the second set, could be nute burn begging, could be lack of enough nutes or proper balance.
what nutes are u using, what strengths, have you increased ur watering?
Jorge Cervantes writes that soil that is too dry has an EC concentration 4-5 times higher than normal. high salinaty, i.e. high EC, can lead to lockouts very quickly.

Heat Issues? Light Bleaching? (pics)

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