Growing for terpenes?

BoiseShortz

BoiseShortz

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
If you want to amplify your terpenes, use a trigger.

Insect frass, for one, and another is... use magnesium sulfate foliar at the flip, which will double your terps and increase pungency, if timed right and if right strength, and increase your vitamin and mineral production as well.

Terps and anthocyanin (a special antioxidant) are my favourite tings about the plant by far..
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I use crab meal which I believe has chitin also been using biolive and oyster shells, would insect frass have something else i might be missing? My plants are switching right now all outdoor notill, if I were using epsom salt and water for my folair do you have a recommendation for strength ratio.

I grow purple sugar snaps and all sorts of purple, black and brown tomatoes i love the high anthocyanin expressions, never really thought about it in my weed. Thanks for putting it in my head!
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
BoiseShortz said:
I use crab meal which I believe has chitin also been using biolive and oyster shells, would insect frass have something else i might be missing? My plants are switching right now all outdoor notill, if I were using epsom salt and water for my folair do you have a recommendation for strength ratio.

I grow purple sugar snaps and all sorts of purple, black and brown tomatoes i love the high anthocyanin expressions, never really thought about it in my weed. Thanks for putting it in my head!
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Glad to spark a new idea!

I would use only 1/8 tsp or so per gallon, and hit them twice in the first ten days of flower, not in the heat.
Less is more, you don't want to salt your plants out and dry em out, the opposite of what you want.

As for insect frass, I would say YES.. good frass has INCREDIBLE stats. Unreal, really.

I will try to find one of my posts on it for ya!

D
 
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DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-dons-organic-garden.815786/page-168

See page 168 in our thread, post #3348. (Link above)

Summary:

Insect frass:
  • has 100 Billion fungi spores per gram
  • 6 trillion cfu/gm of microorganisms (including bacteria, protozoa and nematodes)
  • stimulates the plants auto-immune system so it produces more:
  • terpenes, flavinoids, alkaloids, amino acids, and chitinase enzyme,
  • not to mention root rot, mildew and nematode defence

Screen Shot 2018-07-19 at 12.51.02 AM.png
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
In short, it can improve flavor, increase terpenes (which are highly valuable, extremely fragrant, and very medicinal as well), and couple companies even go as far to boast that it can shave up to 2 weeks off of your life cycle.. faster veg and flower that is, if used early and often and in the right amounts. Hard to beat that value imo!
 
Miyagismokes

Miyagismokes

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
In short, it can improve flavor, increase terpenes (which are highly valuable, extremely fragrant, and very medicinal as well), and couple companies even go as far to boast that it can shave up to 2 weeks off of your life cycle.. faster veg and flower that is, if used early and often and in the right amounts. Hard to beat that value imo!
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One of the things I always have issue with regarding science-y stuff...
There's multiple types of chitin and chitinases. I note you mention chitin from insect frass is "immediately available", but is chitin ever really "immediately available"?
Wouldn't fungus chitin via mushroom compost be *more* available? Since fungus chitin is a different type of chitin, will it trigger the same SAR pathways?

I grasp insect frass being the MORE available form, since it isn't encased in calcium carbonate like crustacean chitin, but should I draw from this that fungus chitin doesn't work on the same pathways?
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I would say draw from both if you can... you're a step ahead with each approach the way I see it, so best to be 2 steps ahead vs just one...

Takes only 2 to 3 hours max to go from a completely limp and near dead plant that you believe is 100% done for sure, to go to fully erect and upright-perky, as seen in the pic. With frass that is.. BSF frass to be specific.

Basic fungals, on the other hand, I see as the slower yet just as intelligent and if anything the more proactive approach.. it takes, say, around a couple weeks to get a real good mycelium or AMF/myco population established, but with frass, you can do it in just 2 hours, vs 2 wks.. right?

So both is best imo. I usually grow a thick yet fine white beard on every organic soil, before testing it, at least twice before using it.. folding it in each time (thin mycelium strands that go thick and dense with sheer numbers and layers).. and then I do myco too, and then I do frass.. they all have their perks and pro's.

I like to attack problems like ant farms do, from many many angles.. its hedges your bets and increases your odds for success.. without overkill, I still like to KIS, but good to be thorough too.

Miyagismokes said:
One of the things I always have issue with regarding science-y stuff...
There's multiple types of chitin and chitinases. I note you mention chitin from insect frass is "immediately available", but is chitin ever really "immediately available"?
Wouldn't fungus chitin via mushroom compost be *more* available? Since fungus chitin is a different type of chitin, will it trigger the same SAR pathways?

I grasp insect frass being the MORE available form, since it isn't encased in calcium carbonate like crustacean chitin, but should I draw from this that fungus chitin doesn't work on the same pathways?
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ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Get your brix levels up, a meter is pretty inexpensive...
Best (only) ways is through fermented feeds. Korean farming practice is a nice easy practice that can be done at home with simple materials like rice and milk .
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
Get your brix levels up, a meter is pretty inexpensive...
Best (only) ways is through fermented feeds. Korean farming practice is a nice easy practice that can be done at home with simple materials like rice and milk .
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Yeah, Hi brix is a good thing to incorporate into the approach. LABS is really easy stuff to make and should be a weapon at our disposal, among other ferments if you like them.. and basalt and gypsum. Good GRD too. The basalt and gypsum will also add density/weight, and terps/pungency as well, respectively.
 
Miyagismokes

Miyagismokes

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
usually grow a thick yet fine white beard on every organic soil, before testing it, at least twice before using it.
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Do you ever have fungus eat your soil?
I left some cloth pots fallow last year and when I dug them out to move them, fungus had eaten the bottom three inches of dirt, basically bleached it out.
 
docter

docter

Well-Known Member
BoiseShortz said:
Hi everyone, I have been growing for 10+ years alway knew that there was a specific flavor to weed that I just loved. Now with lab testing, I am pretty positive that it is a combo of Myrcene and Bisabolol (Kushy). Maybe there is already a thread about this that someone can direct me to? But if not I was wondering what growing techniques (other then genetics) can be used to enhance this flavor profile.
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L

LinguaPeel

Well-Known Member
Different root exudates attract different bacteria strains. Different strains of bacteria produces different flavors depending on what carbs and proteins are fed and what minerals are available to eat them off of. You get a different flavor from every mineral in your rock dust, and every different food source. The industry is letting growers down by not coming out with this information. Growers can't do the side by sides themselves,when they are forced to grow every plant in their bedroom the same. I mean, having 2 different soils in the same room? Knowing that genetics aren't important, because all weed is so damn genetically diverse?

All the good pot grown today is so diverse, its not really a strain. Too diverse, the plant evolves. You can tell growers apart more so than the strains. The old heads can grow an SD that doesn't smell organic or hydro or like bobs crop, etc. The old heads who knew what the strains wanted to provide. Back before weed was marketed to soccer moms who hate the smell of weed.

Terpenez, zomeone mentioned, is not a soil amendment itz a plant perfume. Smellz like a fake azz attempt at recreating Lemon pinezol weed. Guezz what it makez your bud zmell like? A fake azz attempt at recreating lemon pinezol weed.
 
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BoiseShortz

BoiseShortz

Well-Known Member
LinguaPeel said:
Different root exudates attract different bacteria strains. Different strains of bacteria produces different flavors depending on what carbs and proteins are fed and what minerals are available to eat them off of. You get a different flavor from every mineral in your rock dust, and every different food source. The industry is letting growers down by not coming out with this information. Growers can't do the side by sides themselves,when they are forced to grow every plant in their bedroom the same. I mean, having 2 different soils in the same room? Knowing that genetics aren't important, because all weed is so damn genetically diverse?

All the good pot grown today is so diverse, its not really a strain. Too diverse, the plant evolves. You can tell growers apart more so than the strains. The old heads can grow an SD that doesn't smell organic or hydro or like bobs crop, etc. The old heads who knew what the strains wanted to provide. Back before weed was marketed to soccer moms who hate the smell of weed.

Terpenez, zomeone mentioned, is not a soil amendment itz a plant perfume. Smellz like a fake azz attempt at recreating Lemon pinezol weed. Guezz what it makez your bud zmell like? A fake azz attempt at recreating lemon pinezol weed.
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I've read some research that even points out that things that might have been previously considered "bad" i.e. drought conditions might actually stimulate the production of certain terpenes. So what one grower might consider wrong is actually ideal for another grower looking to achieve a different taste or aroma profile. I am a firm believer that growing in the ground and with the sun (the way nature did it for millennia) is the only way for the future of this amazing plant. I fully respect people who grow indoors out of necessity but hope legal and social views change so it is no longer necessary. Just my two cents...
 
SSR

SSR

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
There are a number of premade sea mineral or sea trace products yea.
Which is great for people who can't get to the sea.
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Folks wanting to use sea water for foliar are better with these products.
They have a lot of the sodium and chlorides removed. Together these make up ~80-85% of the available minerals.
Seawater foliars done once every two weeks in Veg and transition made a difference for me.
Sea water works great applied to soil in small amounts once or twice a year depending on what you're growing and how intensively.
My pop put me onto this in the 90s and so long as you don't overdo it it works great
 
G

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
Whoa whoa whoa, let's back up to the ocean water for the gold comments. This sparked my interest and I'm wondering what impact gold has on the plant.

I am totally willing to get some gold leaf and blend the absolute SHIT out of it an add that to my nutrient feeds if theres any reason to think it will make a differance thars positive. I actually have plenty laying around already. Plant just hit week 6 so I'd toss it in except for it's a single plant grow an I'm not risking it for no evidence..
 
SSR

SSR

Well-Known Member
Gold is completely unreactive so i can't imagine it would be of actual benefit to the plants or microbes.
Youd need to do some pretty intense reading of plant studys to figure that one out mefinks
 
BoiseShortz

BoiseShortz

Well-Known Member
Scoured the wonderland website couldn't find any terpene profile comparisons from the golden tarp, ganjier.com doesn't exist, not sure...
 
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