Grow tent in Barn - how to control temp?

Hey everyone, as of now I'm in the design phase of what I'm looking to build.

Background:
In Oregon and plan on growing 4 plants.

Currently have an open stall in my barn with plenty of room to set up a grow tent. Size wise I'm looking to get the most out of the 4 plants, so I have been thinking something in the 5x5 range.

This grow OP would primarily be for personal use.

Budget wise, I'm kind of open as of now. I would like to say no more than $1500 total.

Issues:
Which size of tent would be the best to maximize my grow of 4 plants? (Something reasonable)

Temperature control, what would be the best way to control temperature and what issues am I going to have? As of now my barn stays a few degrees warmer than the outside temp, but not by much. I live in the Pacific Northwest so we do have lows in the 30s occasionally in the spring. With the tent and the lights, I'm not sure how effective controlling the temp will be.

Hydro or soil:
I haven't fully decided which route to take, as I would like to find out more on temp control and if I can make this a possibility or not. But due to control issues, where I won't be around every single day I'm almost leaning towards Hydro, so I can have stuff of timers etc.


If you guys could provide some feedback on this, that would be great!

Concrete floors or dirt?

Unless you plan on getting elaborate with plywood and doors and an AC unit and little heater, these might be a good option from a multi-purpose perspective - in a stall - in a barn.

https://www.moverssupplies.com/catalog/product/view/id/283/s/sound-blanket-producers-choice-bw-with-grommets-vb-70g/

orbo said:

Concrete floors or dirt?

Click to expand...

The ground is concrete however in the stall, I have about an inch think plastic/rubber flooring.

if u got barn-stall build out small room correct -nooo!

Don't buy a tent get some panda plastic for the floor/ceiling and reflective mylar for the wall use cardboard behind both materials before you staple them. For a door fold the mylar 3 times back ,with cardboard in the middle of the first fold so it stays stiff, about 3 inchs and then stitch in velcro on the very inner part of the fold to create a overlap for no light leakage. You don't have to be elaborate with it just have wood running far enough away from each other to have a point to staple into and of course nail that wood into the rafters and a couple of in port and export holes cooling/heating. hydro has better growth and yield rate but the taste isn't quite there for me. You are mistaken with hydro a pump could fail(I've heard of this happening a couple of times) then you have a crop full of unhealthy ladies where as soil you throw it to it every 2-5 days. also if you need heat try using wing reflectors in the winter and air cooled hoods in the summer.

Run lights at night
SH420

BamaBoyBeRolling said:

Don't buy a tent get some panda plastic for the floor/ceiling and reflective mylar for the wall use cardboard behind both materials before you staple them. For a door fold the mylar 3 times back ,with cardboard in the middle of the first fold so it stays stiff, about 3 inchs and then stitch in velcro on the very inner part of the fold to create a overlap for no light leakage. You don't have to be elaborate with it just have wood running far enough away from each other to have a point to staple into and of course nail that wood into the rafters and a couple of in port and export holes cooling/heating. hydro has better growth and yield rate but the taste isn't quite there for me. You are mistaken with hydro a pump could fail(I've heard of this happening a couple of times) then you have a crop full of unhealthy ladies where as soil you throw it to it every 2-5 days. also if you need heat try using wing reflectors in the winter and air cooled hoods in the summer.

Click to expand...

Great tips! Think you just sold me on soil, that was one of the few things I haven't that about. And dealing with powers surges in the country, a failed pump is the last thing I want to deal with.

Unfortunately tho, I don't plan on building in the stall to create its own room. I have a few stalls open, but depending which animals I have in at the time. Therefor the tent is something I could hypothetically move and set up else where in the barn if needed.

shrxhky420 said:

Run lights at night
SH420

Click to expand...

Good point, run lights during the coldest times.

Orenative said:

Good point, run lights during the coldest times.

Click to expand...

Electricity is cheaper at night. Most companies give reduced rates from 2100 to 0600 or somewhere close.

Orenative said:

The ground is concrete however in the stall, I have about an inch think plastic/rubber flooring.

Click to expand...

That's what pallets are good for. Stuff newspaper or insulation in the fork space.

Why dont you try out that pink insulation slab stuff to put on the outside of your tent pretty much any store with tools will have it in the construction area if i believe right i even saw it at my wall mart and use that pallet for dragging it around without worrying about tearing the plastic on your tent.

Orenative said:

Hey everyone, as of now I'm in the design phase of what I'm looking to build.

Background:
In Oregon and plan on growing 4 plants.

Currently have an open stall in my barn with plenty of room to set up a grow tent. Size wise I'm looking to get the most out of the 4 plants, so I have been thinking something in the 5x5 range.

This grow OP would primarily be for personal use.

Budget wise, I'm kind of open as of now. I would like to say no more than $1500 total.

Issues:
Which size of tent would be the best to maximize my grow of 4 plants? (Something reasonable)

Temperature control, what would be the best way to control temperature and what issues am I going to have? As of now my barn stays a few degrees warmer than the outside temp, but not by much. I live in the Pacific Northwest so we do have lows in the 30s occasionally in the spring. With the tent and the lights, I'm not sure how effective controlling the temp will be.

Hydro or soil:
I haven't fully decided which route to take, as I would like to find out more on temp control and if I can make this a possibility or not. But due to control issues, where I won't be around every single day I'm almost leaning towards Hydro, so I can have stuff of timers etc.


If you guys could provide some feedback on this, that would be great!

Click to expand...

ohhh u will make my 2nd barn grow

this is going to be fun
1 .....u need to know the side of the barn that gets the least direct sunlight as air on that side stays the coolest
2..... the air coming in will need a bug screen filter
3......depending on the avg temp in your area u are looking at a possible needs for 8/10 inch ducting and fan
4..... what the one guy said about building it out is a decent idea.......tent in a barn will attached bugs (running the lights at night more so )
5 .....swamp cooler for the hot days https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/Entry/swamp-cooler-heat-reducting-for-cheap.31400/#comment-38149 have the intake dump tho the top powering the swamp cooler just watch the water lvls u can kill a pump if run dry

the rest of it is simple .......u go LED or Cob for the low heat and high energy output for the plants
since u have a barn i would tell u make up super soil as u have the room to make a large batch and use it tho a year (benefits it makes it simple u just water and add on stackers like bud candy or sugar daddy or honey....it is organic so no flushing needed less work) ....water every 2 days (if the temps in the lower 60s every 3 days if the temps in the upper 70s near 80 every 36 hours

as for your size i am telling u now u need to think of a method of water the plants in back .....lost count the number of times i had to crawl under the plants to get to a planter for watering/had to take one out to reach the planter ....so plan something or keep the plants small so u can reach work
one method i liked was using a drip feed ring hooked to tubing with a funnel on the end to pour down ......the ring would spread around the whole planter ....just had to wash it out with pint of clean water when finished

as for hydro......NO hydro needs a temp controlled area to really come out well .......other wise u are paying for a very strong water chiller to keep the roots from getting to hot

just incase u go HID .......never use outside air over a hot light bulb ........if u are getting rain alot u might need to shut off the light as the RH in the barn will closely be like outside raining is 100% RH that is a bad thing for a hot light bulb under pressure a drop of cool water hits it boom ......so really no HIDS in a barn unless in a dry area

justugh said:

ohhh u will make my 2nd barn grow

this is going to be fun
1 .....u need to know the side of the barn that gets the least direct sunlight as air on that side stays the coolest
2..... the air coming in will need a bug screen filter
3......depending on the avg temp in your area u are looking at a possible needs for 8/10 inch ducting and fan
4..... what the one guy said about building it out is a decent idea.......tent in a barn will attached bugs (running the lights at night more so )
5 .....swamp cooler for the hot days https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/Entry/swamp-cooler-heat-reducting-for-cheap.31400/#comment-38149 have the intake dump tho the top powering the swamp cooler just watch the water lvls u can kill a pump if run dry

the rest of it is simple .......u go LED or Cob for the low heat and high energy output for the plants
since u have a barn i would tell u make up super soil as u have the room to make a large batch and use it tho a year (benefits it makes it simple u just water and add on stackers like bud candy or sugar daddy or honey....it is organic so no flushing needed less work) ....water every 2 days (if the temps in the lower 60s every 3 days if the temps in the upper 70s near 80 every 36 hours

as for your size i am telling u now u need to think of a method of water the plants in back .....lost count the number of times i had to crawl under the plants to get to a planter for watering/had to take one out to reach the planter ....so plan something or keep the plants small so u can reach work
one method i liked was using a drip feed ring hooked to tubing with a funnel on the end to pour down ......the ring would spread around the whole planter ....just had to wash it out with pint of clean water when finished

as for hydro......NO hydro needs a temp controlled area to really come out well .......other wise u are paying for a very strong water chiller to keep the roots from getting to hot

just incase u go HID .......never use outside air over a hot light bulb ........if u are getting rain alot u might need to shut off the light as the RH in the barn will closely be like outside raining is 100% RH that is a bad thing for a hot light bulb under pressure a drop of cool water hits it boom ......so really no HIDS in a barn unless in a dry area

Click to expand...

This is exactly what I was looking for! I Appreciate the information and tips.

I only have one more remaining question, and it's back to the tent size. You mentioned watering is difficult to reach plants in the back; so I'm planning on doing 4 plants total (my small clones will be else where, in the house until ready for tent). Since there's only 4 plants in the tent, I was envisioning a tent that opens both sides for easy watering etc. However to get the most growth I can out of those four, what size of tent would be ideal? As of now I was leaning towards a 5x5x7. Let me know your thoughts.

I'm a barn grower.

Growing in an old outhouse now till I retrofit another building on the property.

Moisture is your enemy. Doesn't matter how well sealed off your room is, you need to get moisture away from the building. Does the barn have gutters? If not, install some. Barn has a good roof? Is the barn heated? Most aren't, ours aren't... How is the airflow and where are the doors?

Honestly, you may as well do this right, even for a small space like 5x5. You'll thank yourself later...

You'll need to frame up a few 2x4s and a bit of insulation and poly, you'll have an awesome room in no time and not much $, but most importantly you'll have done it right.

My first build here on the farm was half ass, and I chased moisture/temp issues the whole time. Then once I kinda figured it out then the seasons would change and I'd be chasing my tail again. My saving grace in this building is that I insulated the shit out of it before I even started. If not for that I'd be done already...

But I'm telling ya, moisture control. A hot, humid tent in a cold, dry barn could build condensation, especially underneath it. A hot, humid tent on a hot, humid day will have difficulty removing heat and humidity (capt. obvious here). And what about it being too humid or dry, hot or cold outside?

I think barn growing is possible, but you have to make accommodations for the fact that you're in a barn, not necessarily "indoor" like most. Barns aren't typically meant to be humidity controlled and heated. They're intended for air movement.

Good luck!!


BTW, my plans consist of knocking out a couple of stalls and building a series of rooms in the space left. In my design, the barn is there only for the roof, the room is completely free standing within.

a senile fungus said:

I'm a barn grower.

Growing in an old outhouse now till I retrofit another building on the property.

Moisture is your enemy. Doesn't matter how well sealed off your room is, you need to get moisture away from the building. Does the barn have gutters? If not, install some. Barn has a good roof? Is the barn heated? Most aren't, ours aren't... How is the airflow and where are the doors?

Honestly, you may as well do this right, even for a small space like 5x5. You'll thank yourself later...

You'll need to frame up a few 2x4s and a bit of insulation and poly, you'll have an awesome room in no time and not much $, but most importantly you'll have done it right.

My first build here on the farm was half ass, and I chased moisture/temp issues the whole time. Then once I kinda figured it out then the seasons would change and I'd be chasing my tail again. My saving grace in this building is that I insulated the shit out of it before I even started. If not for that I'd be done already...

But I'm telling ya, moisture control. A hot, humid tent in a cold, dry barn could build condensation, especially underneath it. A hot, humid tent on a hot, humid day will have difficulty removing heat and humidity (capt. obvious here). And what about it being too humid or dry, hot or cold outside?

I think barn growing is possible, but you have to make accommodations for the fact that you're in a barn, not necessarily "indoor" like most. Barns aren't typically meant to be humidity controlled and heated. They're intended for air movement.

Good luck!!


BTW, my plans consist of knocking out a couple of stalls and building a series of rooms in the space left. In my design, the barn is there only for the roof, the room is completely free standing within.

Click to expand...

Well...I do live in the valley and moisture here is already a pain in the ass, didn't quite think of that part yet. As far as airflow goes, I have two sliding doors on each end of barn and when opened air flows pretty good. However after you mentioned fighting the humidity, that popped out to me big time as we have too much of it here. What other ways is there to combat the humidity?

Orenative said:

Well...I do live in the valley and moisture here is already a pain in the ass, didn't quite think of that part yet. As far as airflow goes, I have two sliding doors on each end of barn and when opened air flows pretty good. However after you mentioned fighting the humidity, that popped out to me big time as we have too much of it here. What other ways is there to combat the humidity?

Click to expand...

Air conditioning, dehumidification, moving a shit ton of air, sealing off the room (with proper equipment), moving the tent into the house (nudge nudge)

Orenative said:

This is exactly what I was looking for! I Appreciate the information and tips.

I only have one more remaining question, and it's back to the tent size. You mentioned watering is difficult to reach plants in the back; so I'm planning on doing 4 plants total (my small clones will be else where, in the house until ready for tent). Since there's only 4 plants in the tent, I was envisioning a tent that opens both sides for easy watering etc. However to get the most growth I can out of those four, what size of tent would be ideal? As of now I was leaning towards a 5x5x7. Let me know your thoughts.

Click to expand...

those doors u are thinking about are half way upside of the tent .....your working with a 12 inches leaves u 10/18 to gab just to get to the soil to feed it

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UF9VXE
with 1/2in id tubing ........u run the tube up the side of the tent in the corners when u need to feed grab put a chemically resistant funnel

pour in a pint and wait 3 mins then pour in a quart wait 45 secs 2nd quart wait 45 secs 3rd quart wait 45 secs then a pint of clean water for a total of 1 gallon into the planter (modify it for the max water retention of the amount of soil u use 3 gallon planter is just shy of half gallon 5 gallon is about 3 quarts and pint 7 gallon takes a full gallon of water plus about pint and half so this is the best to use mix up 1 gallon of feed use the whole thing on plant mix up next for other plant altering the fed for the plants reactions)

well the plants will grow in to fit what ever space u have...point of a scrog .....but u really should go with what your light budget allows

if u go for something to large the plants will still make fluffy buds due to low light power ......warning i am a big fan of the over kill factor
5x5x7 so u are talking gorilla tents good stuff 300 lbs of hang weight good material
900w LED .....acutal power drawl will be in the 500/450 range

what he saids about the house is correct too .....it is why i was telling u build it out over the tent choice

justugh said:

ohhh u will make my 2nd barn grow

this is going to be fun
1 .....u need to know the side of the barn that gets the least direct sunlight as air on that side stays the coolest
2..... the air coming in will need a bug screen filter
3......depending on the avg temp in your area u are looking at a possible needs for 8/10 inch ducting and fan
4..... what the one guy said about building it out is a decent idea.......tent in a barn will attached bugs (running the lights at night more so )
5 .....swamp cooler for the hot days https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/Entry/swamp-cooler-heat-reducting-for-cheap.31400/#comment-38149 have the intake dump tho the top powering the swamp cooler just watch the water lvls u can kill a pump if run dry

the rest of it is simple .......u go LED or Cob for the low heat and high energy output for the plants
since u have a barn i would tell u make up super soil as u have the room to make a large batch and use it tho a year (benefits it makes it simple u just water and add on stackers like bud candy or sugar daddy or honey....it is organic so no flushing needed less work) ....water every 2 days (if the temps in the lower 60s every 3 days if the temps in the upper 70s near 80 every 36 hours

as for your size i am telling u now u need to think of a method of water the plants in back .....lost count the number of times i had to crawl under the plants to get to a planter for watering/had to take one out to reach the planter ....so plan something or keep the plants small so u can reach work
one method i liked was using a drip feed ring hooked to tubing with a funnel on the end to pour down ......the ring would spread around the whole planter ....just had to wash it out with pint of clean water when finished

as for hydro......NO hydro needs a temp controlled area to really come out well .......other wise u are paying for a very strong water chiller to keep the roots from getting to hot

just incase u go HID .......never use outside air over a hot light bulb ........if u are getting rain alot u might need to shut off the light as the RH in the barn will closely be like outside raining is 100% RH that is a bad thing for a hot light bulb under pressure a drop of cool water hits it boom ......so really no HIDS in a barn unless in a dry area

Click to expand...

justugh said:

those doors u are thinking about are half way upside of the tent .....your working with a 12 inches leaves u 10/18 to gab just to get to the soil to feed it

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UF9VXE
with 1/2in id tubing ........u run the tube up the side of the tent in the corners when u need to feed grab put a chemically resistant funnel

pour in a pint and wait 3 mins then pour in a quart wait 45 secs 2nd quart wait 45 secs 3rd quart wait 45 secs then a pint of clean water for a total of 1 gallon into the planter (modify it for the max water retention of the amount of soil u use 3 gallon planter is just shy of half gallon 5 gallon is about 3 quarts and pint 7 gallon takes a full gallon of water plus about pint and half so this is the best to use mix up 1 gallon of feed use the whole thing on plant mix up next for other plant altering the fed for the plants reactions)

well the plants will grow in to fit what ever space u have...point of a scrog .....but u really should go with what your light budget allows

if u go for something to large the plants will still make fluffy buds due to low light power ......warning i am a big fan of the over kill factor
5x5x7 so u are talking gorilla tents good stuff 300 lbs of hang weight good material
900w LED .....acutal power drawl will be in the 500/450 range

what he saids about the house is correct too .....it is why i was telling u build it out over the tent choice

Click to expand...

Jeezus.

This guy over complicates everything.


@Orenative
Word of advice, take all of the advice on this forum, mine included, with a grain of salt.

Common sense prevails.

Swamp coolers will add to your humidity.

Don't buy a 900w LED , LoL

And don't get a Gorilla tent for your first time. You could use real materials and make the $ go much farther.