Grow Room Floorplans. Here to help.

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
K phillip im taking the h&m heat exchange back, cant get past the pump dead heading!
So what one do you think i should get?
 

+ WitchDoctor +

Well-Known Member
Hi, I'm trying to change things around a little to make them more convenient for me in my rooms. I normally keep my cuttings outside of my veg room in a small humidity dome on a table with a heating pad under it. (typical probably) I want to move them into my veg room. It's a 54"x54" room with 1000w MH. And maybe have a small 12"x48" shelf going across on one side up close to the reflector with a 4 ft T5 above it. I found a 48"x10" white flood tray which would be a great size for me, but the plastic humidity dome is about $100 bucks or something and seems pointless.

So my question is since the humidity can be over 50% in my veg room anyways, could I just not use the lid and keep the humidity over 50%? And does this sound like a good plan at all? Thanks in advance.
 

Sencha

Active Member
I can see it taking longer with a low humidity but if you're cloning in rockwool or using a flood table to clone, I see no problem.

My veg room is about 45% and I don't use domes. My clones root ~12 days.


-Hey phil, I have existing duct work going to my room (heat and CA). Would you move it to the bloom or veg room?
 

phillipchristian

New Member
Ok, I found it at bghydro.com for $275 plus shipping.
Sorry about that buddy. I meant BGHydro. Was reading an article earlier about a grower and BC Hydro. Made me think of that I guess. Just know that those dual ballasts HAVE to be wired 240v. You can't use 120v plugs with them.

They use the same as a single unit. A single one uses 2.73 so they round down. A double uses 5.46 so they round up. All the same though. Even if it wasn't you'd be talking about such a small difference that the price savings would more than justify it.
 

phillipchristian

New Member
K phillip im taking the h&m heat exchange back, cant get past the pump dead heading!
So what one do you think i should get?
Hey Hellraizer, I'd go with the Chillking Air Handler. I absolutely love them and they are so simple to setup. They will also continue to dehumidify even if the cooling has shutoff which is a drawback to most a/c units and other heat exchangers. PM me and I can get you a price from my boy if you are interested. Then you can take it from there.

Still think that chiller size is gonna be an issue. If anything you are gonna need to add another 1hp chiller to the reservoir. I think those EcoPlus units are stackable (you can sit one on the other).
 

phillipchristian

New Member
Hi, I'm trying to change things around a little to make them more convenient for me in my rooms. I normally keep my cuttings outside of my veg room in a small humidity dome on a table with a heating pad under it. (typical probably) I want to move them into my veg room. It's a 54"x54" room with 1000w MH. And maybe have a small 12"x48" shelf going across on one side up close to the reflector with a 4 ft T5 above it. I found a 48"x10" white flood tray which would be a great size for me, but the plastic humidity dome is about $100 bucks or something and seems pointless.

So my question is since the humidity can be over 50% in my veg room anyways, could I just not use the lid and keep the humidity over 50%? And does this sound like a good plan at all? Thanks in advance.
Hey Witchdoctor. There are 2 trains of thought on cloning. Most guys use humidity domes to increase RH to 90-100% as they feel it increases the intake of water by the plants (myself included). Other guys actually never use a dome during cloning and feel that hardening off their clones is better right from the beginning. I've never tried it but they seem to do just fine with it. I know a Mondi Tray and 7" Dome costs like $10 together. Why not just have 2 10"x20" trays and dome? Get an extra heat mat as well. All of that will cost a lot less than another large tray and dome.
 

phillipchristian

New Member
I can see it taking longer with a low humidity but if you're cloning in rockwool or using a flood table to clone, I see no problem.

My veg room is about 45% and I don't use domes. My clones root ~12 days.


-Hey phil, I have existing duct work going to my room (heat and CA). Would you move it to the bloom or veg room?
Hey Sencha, I wouldn't move it to either room. Keep it in the common area. You don't want to be blowing heat into one of your rooms while the a/c is working in there or vice versa. Since the thermostat for that ducting is in your house then it's not efficient to put the ducting in your room.
 

Sencha

Active Member
Hey Sencha, I wouldn't move it to either room. Keep it in the common area. You don't want to be blowing heat into one of your rooms while the a/c is working in there or vice versa. Since the thermostat for that ducting is in your house then it's not efficient to put the ducting in your room.
Thanks for that. It's already in the grow area where I'm building. Just wondered if it had ANY value. Minimizing labor today so, I'll cut some off and vent to the common room at a later date. I'll leave it in the veg room for now.
 

Sencha

Active Member
Two more walls done. Bloom room might get bigger and swallow the HVAC duct after all. This is taking a little longer then planned, due to smoking BUKU. I also decieded to go modular with my walls. With my studs 24" apart, I was able to build 6' sections. I built the wall on the floor and attached one side of the drywall before setting it in place. This really is a two man job, as is checking the squarness of each section while someone else drills holes. I've spent a little extra on materials to do it this way, but it's been a killer lesson in modular wall building. I'm using 2 x 3" studs and 1/2 dry wall. The next time I do this I'll use thicker drywall. Although, my noise level has already been cut in half.

A couple nice "C" clamps would have saved me a brief headache and I'm still using panda to cover a spot. I'll remedy those issues tomorrow.

A whole, modular, grow could be framed by one person if he built 4' walls instead of my 6 footers. Being secured to the concrete floor, making sure your walls are square, and having C clamps, are key for this project.

Cheers
 

phillipchristian

New Member
Two more walls done. Bloom room might get bigger and swallow the HVAC duct after all. This is taking a little longer then planned, due to smoking BUKU. I also decieded to go modular with my walls. With my studs 24" apart, I was able to build 6' sections. I built the wall on the floor and attached one side of the drywall before setting it in place. This really is a two man job, as is checking the squarness of each section while someone else drills holes. I've spent a little extra on materials to do it this way, but it's been a killer lesson in modular wall building. I'm using 2 x 3" studs and 1/2 dry wall. The next time I do this I'll use thicker drywall. Although, my noise level has already been cut in half.

A couple nice "C" clamps would have saved me a brief headache and I'm still using panda to cover a spot. I'll remedy those issues tomorrow.

A whole, modular, grow could be framed by one person if he built 4' walls instead of my 6 footers. Being secured to the concrete floor, making sure your walls are square, and having C clamps, are key for this project.

Cheers

Sounds like is coming along nicely man. It would be a 1 man job if you had my toolshed & workshop! :lol:
 

Sencha

Active Member
Sounds like is coming along nicely man. It would be a 1 man job if you had my toolshed & workshop! :lol:
....and it would take me 3 times longer. I'd end up building a modular floor and a removable ceiling. I'd spend a month just wondering about the endless possiblities, another month trying to build a rotating fireplace like in Scooby Doo, and that's IF I quit smoking to do it. Double that time if I was medicating, LMAO.

Someday phil, someday.
 

phillipchristian

New Member
Haha buddy! Someday. The guys at the hardware store come to my house to see what the new tools are. I have shit they haven't even seen yet. Granted it is Costa Rica. Feel like DeWalt needs to pay me a sponsership fee.
 

kamie

Active Member
I have the same hoods with 1000w bulbs. I heep mine 6' apart. A 1000w light has a footprint of 5x5 when 18" from your plant canopy. That means 2'6" in all directions from the bulb. You can add a little more when you have 2 lights side by side because the extra foot in the middle is receiving tlight from 2 bulbs which add up to sufficient footcandles.
hey phillip how do you measure 2'6"? do you measure it from the long end of the hood and wide end of the hood? i just got the magnum 8in xxxl and im trying to figure out how far to keep the hoods from each other and the wall. im doing 2 1000w for right now.
 

phillipchristian

New Member
hey phillip how do you measure 2'6"? do you measure it from the long end of the hood and wide end of the hood? i just got the magnum 8in xxxl and im trying to figure out how far to keep the hoods from each other and the wall. im doing 2 1000w for right now.
Measure it from the center of the bulb. Line your reflectors up length wise of course because that's how the vents line up. So if you had 2 1000w lights they will cover an area 5' wide (2'6" from the wall to the center of the bulb) and a length of 11' (instead of just 5' for 1 light). Instead of placing the 2 hoods 5' apart length wise you can place them 6' because they are stacking light between the 2 of them. I wouldn't do it unless you have to. If you can fit all the plants under them and keep the lights tighter then do that.
 
Top