Greenpoint seeds!!

slow drawl

slow drawl

Well-Known Member
Been busy trying to get everything down and to the right stages for storage. I gotta scale back, this was a crazy good year for me. Chopped the LVTK and got her out of the way, this was the first time I was able to access these other plants fully.
Deputy...so please with this plant_DSC4999.JPG
Sky Dweller...gonna turn out some really nice bud_DSC4997.JPG
Night Rider...the loudest one by far, strong lime chemical smell_DSC4993.JPG
Other than having issues with the crazy stringy stretch forever thing, I'm really please with the outcome of these strains. I'll try to get back later after the cure with smoke reports.
 
Bubby'sndalab

Bubby'sndalab

Well-Known Member
Thanks-raindance has a great nose on her as well-I've gotten lots of dudes from greenpoint
Garlix 2 for 2 dudes
Raindance 2 for 3 dudes(1female in pics)
Cookies n chem 2 for 3 dudes
Blizzard bush 2 for 3 dudes & 1 female that sucked
Good luck on your cnc-i got one comin down in a week or so-smoke report to follow
 
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nobighurry

Well-Known Member
Greenthumbs256 said:
yea I've always used the eye hortilux! it's the only bulb I've ever used!
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Recently a Phillips CMH bulb popped not sue why it went only 2 cycles on them, anyway replaced it with a hortilux bulb, it strikes up very fast and is noticeably brighter then the phi,lips bulbs, just into week 4 flower so it will be interesting to see if there's any differance...
 
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nobighurry

Well-Known Member
Chunky Stool said:
Try it.

It's kinda like fishermen who say they don't worry about scent contamination because they always catch fish, regardless.
I wonder how many fish they would catch if their bait didn't smell like cigarette smoke and gasoline... :dunce:
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I am a steelhead and chinook nut and can say without a doubt scent makes a huge difference on catch rate, a buddy who smokes cigars proved that in spades got to the point he had one of us tie his bait on his plugs etc.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Heisenbeans said:
You want more trichs go with better genetics seriously.I never saw any difference at all in trich manipulation with lighting.The sun has more UV than any man made light and indoor nugs are frostier because you can control the temps and humidity which IMO are the only things i ever saw that effected trich development first hand,
Start with a fire clone that you know is gonna frost rail on ya,and keep your canopy temps down during trich development phases especially lights out.As far as we know plants develop trichs to insulate themselves with oil to help protect the seeds from the cold.I havnt seen any documented proof from a credible source that can prove UV will promote more trichs on identical cuts.
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You are correct. They use it for insulation. But they also use it for protection from the sun as well as to catch pollen. The stickier the more pollen that is caught. And lower temps produces more trichs.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Heisenbeans said:
I have a video of cake a foot under the 1000 cmh and no trichs lol cause it's just to hot.in the cooler areas I got trichs for miles but right in the hottest areas leaves are smooth as can be loo.
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That's why like you said. The lowers always get more trich development than mains. But not always some genetics are just frosty. But not all. Mains are closer to the point of light.
 
NoWaistedSpace

NoWaistedSpace

Well-Known Member
whytewidow said:
That's why like you said. The lowers always get more trich development than mains. But not always some genetics are just frosty. But not all. Mains are closer to the point of light.
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People have a tendency to put their tops too close to the light source causing "dryer" humidity at the canopy. More light and lower temps will produce the Trichs. Heison is right about the shaded buds being frostier because they are able to "perspire" normally. Higher canopy temps requires higher humidity. I keep my Veros about 12 to 20" above canopy and control PPMs to between 1000 and 1200ppm. Anything over that requires CO2.
This is just my opinion from what I have experienced when I switched to the Veros from HPS.
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
NoWaistedSpace said:
People have a tendency to put their tops too close to the light source causing "dryer" humidity at the canopy. More light and lower temps will produce the Trichs. Heison is right about the shaded buds being frostier because they are able to "perspire" normally. Higher canopy temps requires higher humidity. I keep my Veros about 12 to 20" above canopy and control PPMs to between 1000 and 1200ppm. Anything over that requires CO2.
This is just my opinion from what I have experienced when I switched to the Veros from HPS.
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Good info!
I still run HID with open reflectors and it sounds like it would be a good idea to have a small fan that blows a continuous stream of air through the gap between lights & plant tips. It wouldn't affect infrared but should help with radiant heat.
 
NoWaistedSpace

NoWaistedSpace

Well-Known Member
Chunky Stool said:
Good info!
I still run HID with open reflectors and it sounds like it would be a good idea to have a small fan that blows a continuous stream of air through the gap between lights & plant tips. It wouldn't affect infrared but should help with radiant heat.
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Don't want to get into a "COB vs HPS" debate, but this is where the LED's benefit by lowering canopy temps. The heat produced by LED's is above the heatsink and not below the actual light. The more fans the better, keeps uniform humidity in the area you need it the most. (between canopy and light)
I think the plant just can't pull enough moisture up the plant to actually "perspire" when the temps are too high.
Also, Everyone worries about PM to come from high humidity. Not totally true. PM comes from shade and stagnant air. Fans, fans, fans. Move that air, especially on seedlings. Within 30mins, they will be stronger and no falling over.
 
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