greenleaf megacrop
- Thread starter mcnasty_nug
- Start date
BostonBuds
Well-Known Member
I just keep it in the zip lock bag it came in on top of my fridge. I have noticed that the measuring spoon I use turns a dark brown with the stuff still on it, like its just absorbing moisture.
led1k
Well-Known Member
No problems with mold.
To deal with dust I submerge the open end of the bag into water and then dump 'the dust' in.
led1k
Well-Known Member
Is there a downside to mixing I'm not aware of?
CAPT CHESAPEAKE
Well-Known Member
I don't think there is a downside to premixing like your talking about. For me one of the reason's i went with MC is because it is a dry mix. I was trying to get away from some of the messiness of mixing liquids.The amazing thing about this plant is there must be a million ways to get from A to B. I guess it is one of the reasons some new growers have such a hard time.
The Hippy
Well-Known Member
I'd say no it fine except for some folks seem to get mold. That's the only reason not to imo.
legalcanada
Well-Known Member
hello mr hippy ... so greenleaf is no longer sponsor?? the jealous competition drove them out, or what??
i've also enjoyed the version 1.. it does seem to absorb moisture from the air, but it still mixes fine anyways..
The Hippy
Well-Known Member
Ummm...yes
I don't think Mega Crop was in business plan so to speak....lol...scared of them imo.
They don't want us folks enlightened at all. Otherwise who's gonna buy the water with a small amount of fertilizer in it? ...in a pretty bottle with a fancy label.....I ask??
I agree
Really version 1 was awesome as well imo. Even with the goo it was no big deal to me.
But the stability of this version 2 is a very very nice improvement.
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
I am wanting to hit my current run with Greenleafs Gravitron. Anyone have any info on how I should use this to reduce stretch? How much per plant and best time to apply? I havent flipped yet, but I know there are some old heads out there that have used paclo based products back in the day and probably still currently do. I wont judge ya for it, I am only wanting to hit them during first couple weeks to prevent a lot of stretch anyway, not planning to use later in flower. Basically just wanna know how much and when to use to stop stretch or dramatically reduce it. I know paclo can do just that very effectively but i have never used it. Thanks!
CAPT CHESAPEAKE
Well-Known Member
CAPT CHESAPEAKE
Well-Known Member
Interesting @psychadelibud let me know what info you get on that. That PGR is dual purpose product? Always thought that was used close to the end of the flower cycle.Plus i have only herd negative stuff on the PGR's so i never rely looked into it.
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
I think I'm gonna skip on using the paclo... I am going to work tomato cages down on the plant and start training them down shorter instead, weaving the branches through the cages and tying the tops of plants to the tops of cages kinda LST'ing the upper canopy. It's hard as hell to do once they get big like they are now, but I have done it and I just have sooo many plants and the room is sooo crowded I was just dreading doing all that work. But I'm gonna do it, always had good results with it, it's just better if ya start training the plants through the cages at a much younger age.
But to answer your question, paclo is also used in the beginning of flower to reduce and practically stop the stretch early on, which in turn gives you much stockier, closer internodes and allows you to have long ass fat stacked colas with no gaps between the nodes... which in some cases can drastically increase your yield and in some cases it is possible to reduce it.
HydroRed
Well-Known Member
If it is the "new formula" purchased from Dec 18 to present, you should be good as a stand alone according to GLN. I personally have no experience with the new formula as I am still on my last bit of the old formula. I did run the old formula as a one part (as intended) & I noticed it fell a little short on P/K late flower but supplied N almost in excess. Still put off 2 really nice crops all by itself back to back with zero supplementals. Under LED lighting my plants went deficient on Mg when those same cuts didnt under MH/HPS.
This was one of the crops just using MC only, and you can see they were pretty happy:
Didnt see a burnt tip or deficiency til about week 6 or so
70's natureboy
Well-Known Member
Cute little things. I don't see much money there, must be head stash.
thenasty1
Well-Known Member
im running the 2.0 formula in a test group right now. seeing slight Ca deficiency 1 week into flower, other than that they look good. that group i added epsom salt right off the bat, so they are on 5.5 g/gal mc and 1.5 g/gal epsom, diluted to 1.6 ec. the seedlings i have on mc look like ass, those i ran with just mc for about a week. started at 4 g/gal mc, increased a bit as i saw them looking hungry/nute deficient. i let them ride until it looked like i was about to lose them, then switched them to a jacks based mix. i could have given them extra mg but i dont have anything on hand to add ca without also adding a bunch of n. both groups are in flood and drain tables with ro water under 320w qb light rigs. i havent tested with tap water yet, its possible that mc 2.0 could run just fine as a 1 part with decent tap water. but my preliminary findings suggest that ca and mg are insufficient in ro water
just my $.02
HydroRed
Well-Known Member
Ya everything I grow is headstash. I dont sell so I give it away to those Im close to who need it and are tired of getting ripped off by cash croppers and CG's on subpar doodoos loaded with pesticides etc.
TintEastwood
Well-Known Member
Playing with Mega Crop nutes in xl... 
Auto calc based on ML and Gram counts in top row. Currently all "1" for PPM display purposes.
I hope these numbers are close!
Auto calc based on ML and Gram counts in top row. Currently all "1" for PPM display purposes.
I hope these numbers are close!
Last edited:
cosmonautking
Active Member
so, light story time... so bear with me
a while ago i did an accidental controlled experiment but didnt take pictures so ill be doing some side by sides here coming up soon
just a little while ago i had left and rdwc undercurrent system with some megacrop and photosynthesis plus go ham, and ended up doing a root regrowth experiment which just didnt work (i just hacked the rootball from the net pot)..... and got no root growth what so ever for like two weeks, and in that time it was pretty cool... the plant/solution completely immobilized, at least its nitrogen and turned completely pale yellow over a week, then shockingly through week two, without me touching or adjusting the solution/ph it completely re-mobilized with a perfect ph and exploded in growth... but still zero root growth. which i really feel is due to a proper balance of nutrition in the formula (great job) if a plant has everything it needs right there, it has no need to expand a rootmass.... finally i put 15ml of my botanicare pure blend pro grow into the same 12 gallons of solution and within 8 hours i had fresh pearly roots dangling out of my net pot....
now this is in no way me knocking on greenleaf and in no way promoting botanicare....looking at a pure blend pro label we have fish meal/composted seabird guano, kelp, rock phosphate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and calcium carbonate. this shows me that controlled "organics" and synthetics are compatible but i could totally be wrong
this is where my experiment is coming in.... im going to do three controlled experiments a standard megacrop dilution of 1g to 10ml and use 40ml per gallon. one of the same but megacrop diluted with a worm casting tea. and a similar megacrop with worm casting tea and .5ml of urb for the bacillus to dominate, along with the humates. i want to see if i can pre-digest some of these synthetic nutrients (safely) to make them more biologically available and immediately available while allowing multi stage availability and allowing some of that crazy rootgrowth.
a while ago i did an accidental controlled experiment but didnt take pictures so ill be doing some side by sides here coming up soon
just a little while ago i had left and rdwc undercurrent system with some megacrop and photosynthesis plus go ham, and ended up doing a root regrowth experiment which just didnt work (i just hacked the rootball from the net pot)..... and got no root growth what so ever for like two weeks, and in that time it was pretty cool... the plant/solution completely immobilized, at least its nitrogen and turned completely pale yellow over a week, then shockingly through week two, without me touching or adjusting the solution/ph it completely re-mobilized with a perfect ph and exploded in growth... but still zero root growth. which i really feel is due to a proper balance of nutrition in the formula (great job) if a plant has everything it needs right there, it has no need to expand a rootmass.... finally i put 15ml of my botanicare pure blend pro grow into the same 12 gallons of solution and within 8 hours i had fresh pearly roots dangling out of my net pot....
now this is in no way me knocking on greenleaf and in no way promoting botanicare....looking at a pure blend pro label we have fish meal/composted seabird guano, kelp, rock phosphate, potassium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and calcium carbonate. this shows me that controlled "organics" and synthetics are compatible but i could totally be wrong
this is where my experiment is coming in.... im going to do three controlled experiments a standard megacrop dilution of 1g to 10ml and use 40ml per gallon. one of the same but megacrop diluted with a worm casting tea. and a similar megacrop with worm casting tea and .5ml of urb for the bacillus to dominate, along with the humates. i want to see if i can pre-digest some of these synthetic nutrients (safely) to make them more biologically available and immediately available while allowing multi stage availability and allowing some of that crazy rootgrowth.