Follow My Current RDWC Setup, helpful tips are welcome! JACKS 321

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RCJR

Active Member
jonnynobody said:
I'd bet a peanut butter and jelly sandwich your plants are suffering good old fashioned LED light burn. I just reviewed the hardware you're running in that 4x4. Why do I suspect this? Your monitoring everything like a good gardener should. You're experiencing the same issues at 1.1 EC you're experiencing at 1.8 EC. 550W of LED in a 4x4 is too much light. I had to relocate a 450W spider farmer board to my flower room from a 5x5, because I couldn't operate it at more than 50% power (225w) without bleaching and frying my foliage. They looked like your leaves. Burnt edges almost reminiscent of a calcim deficiency / nute burn and light colored leaves almost reminiscent of a magnesium deficiency. Classic LED light burn my friend. Turn your light down to 50%. Increase your EC to the proper strength that you should be feeding which is 1.6-1.8. Your plants will rebound. Blast them with light after flower set has occurred in the 2nd-3rd week of flower. Who cares if you fry a few fan leaves at that point? Fatten up those flowers, but at this point of your grow cycle the plants don't have any flowers and do not want to be blasted with that much light. You're loving your girls too much sir. Slow your roll and reduce the intensity of your light. The fertilizer was never your issue. Your light intensity was and is the issue.
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I bet your right lol. I haven't thought of light intensity. I have the 550 full blast. I'm currently on day 28 in flower. Should i lower it 50% or just 25% and increase the ec? What day should i ramp up the light to 100% again?
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
There is evidence of LED intensity causing issues,red/purple main stems,sunburn.
Ca/Mg deficiencys.
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
RCJR said:
I bet your right lol. I haven't thought of light intensity. I have the 550 full blast. I'm currently on day 28 in flower. Should i lower it 50% or just 25% and increase the ec? What day should i ramp up the light to 100% again?
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Since you're at 28 days of flower I would increase your EC to 1.8 and reduce your light intensity to 50%. At day 28 you're still deep into flower set. You don't want to fuck up your young new blooms before they have a chance to grow into large fat colas. I would let them cook at the lower light intensity and higher 1.8 EC fertilizer strength for 7 days or so as you monitor any changes. If you see nothing but positive changes (and I suspect you will), then I would increase your light intensity incrementally to full power. And you may only be able to max out at 75%. The goal is to give the plants what they need. Too much of anything (including light) is bad.

In a nutshell you've figured out your problem. The light is too intense for the space. Fortunately you have a handy dimmer :)
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
The LED manufacturer's are at least aware of the problem. That's why every quantum board you've ever seen has a dimmer, right? It is what it is.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
I read somewhere that the diameter of the hairs shrinks with too much light? bro science not sure?
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
if his plants are as far from that led as post #1, the led intensity is not the problem. not even close to the problem.
 
TintEastwood

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
I'm not seeing Ca or Mg def.
I found out that a big swing in EC can cause one time tip burn.

Big pic.
For Ca to Mg closer to 2:1.
Dropping epsom, or adding a couple ML of Calimagic are options. For my coco, I always add more Ca. Too much Mg can block Ca.
tox-lockout.jpg
 
J

jonnynobody

Well-Known Member
TintEastwood said:
I'm not seeing Ca or Mg def.

For Ca to Mg closer to 2:1.
Dropping epsom, or adding a couple ML of Calimagic are options. For my coco, I always add more Ca.
View attachment 4792026
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He's running jack's 3-2-1 which has a defined ratio for Ca and Mg that matches the nutrient profile and needs of the base fertilizer. Other than reducing calcium nitrate towards the end of flower there is no need to alter the ratio in any way. Reducing strength is an option, however the ratios need to be maintained.
 
R

RCJR

Active Member
jonnynobody said:
He's running jack's 3-2-1 which has a defined ratio for Ca and Mg that matches the nutrient profile and needs of the base fertilizer. Other than reducing calcium nitrate towards the end of flower there is no need to alter the ratio in any way. Reducing strength is an option, however the ratios need to be maintained.
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Most people say jacks is A 3.6, B 2.4 and Epsom 1.2 (grams per gallon)
But on their site they suggest 3.69, 2.44 and 1.
I've been following what they suggest. Should i bump up the epsom to 1.2 or stick with 1 like jacks says to do.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
Well let us know what you change and how it turns out.
im leaning on the K deficiency so up part 1 a bit.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
If you back off the lights see if the praying goes away.Start there,change one thing at a time and make note of it.
 
Hollatchaboy

Hollatchaboy

Well-Known Member
RCJR said:
I'm following jacks 321 chart with the mix. They recommend 3.6 2.4 and 1 g of epsom even tho most say 1.2 epsom. I'll up the epsom to 1.2 now
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The calnit and epsom are adjustable as needed. If you need a lil more nitrogen, add a lil calnit. If you need more magnesium, add epsom. You get the idea. It would be nice if you could adjust P and K as well.
 
R

RCJR

Active Member
Is there any issue adding the uc roots right after the jacks? Or do i wait a day after adding the jacks nutes?
 
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